drifter17a

Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first

I should video mine, will prob do it tomorrow Between 1st and 3rd, you could fit another two gears. That is how loose and wobbly it is horrible:(

I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90? i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones

Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube

I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it. what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff on contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?

Hi all what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34? my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues would in your view short shifter screw this up? people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?

My understanding is if oil sits and exposed to air/ not sealed, molecules break down etc / could be wrong

If it sits on shelf opened then it is no good and I don’t have a use for it really hence why throw away.

Have a forged r34 using 10w60 mobile 1 running around 700 mark fly. i only used it 200 miles since last march when oil and filter was done. Now I will be using it more often and set to change oil and throw away what I had opened from last year. Question is, does oil setting on shelf for a year or so breakdown or even few years? how about sitting in engine? engine rebuild will be a lot more costly hence why I change it every 12 month and wanted to get some opinion question 2 is around timing belt, was done 4 years or maybe 5 years ago and since car done less than 1.5k miles. Would you change it ?

Yeah , boot clamp was solid/ not sure how it got there but no leak so all good there is loads of green grease still so do think it is likely to be a special grease or something thanks again for your help mate to shed the light

Issue fixed and it is working like a charm. Thank you for continued support qq, my power steering colour is red( atf) but when I removed the cv boost, can see green liquuid of few drops, is that grease which has melted from the rack?

I might have found it, it was the inlet clip from resorviour leaking bur unsure if that is because I did not put the clamp back on correctly ( fully on the groove) or it had moved/ had always being like that i moved the clamp and now doing more tests i pressurised the system to 30 psi ( hydrulic system can take way more by doing little search around 150-400psi) and seen fluid was pushed out from inlet clamp. See my ingenious way of doing now doing vacumme test.

Great will test

Update: smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf) steering turn side to side and could hearing gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system) anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed by engine on and same result going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts? would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out? or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i

All clamps are oem one question is , what is the bit at the top on high pressure pipe where it connectes to intake manifold and other side goes toward the engine( see item in red circle in diabram attached) ? Seen some people stating that should be removed on boosted application and skyline is boosted from manufacture so little puzzled. Mine is around 23pwi (700 hpish) also some state it could be the bonjo bolt crash washer so bought two washers

I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side. checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak. puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues

Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak. Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure? finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf

Does power steering have a cooler? pump is right next to the pump and as I understand r34 hicas is electric so unsure why all that loop going to driver side from the pump where the pump is on passenger side( uk based) Below seems to replace the entire hosing with this kit https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/jdmgarageuk-power-steering-line-kit-for-rwd-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-silvia-s13-s14-s15.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqLt7fNuZgXNepjqk8I-qovXgmJCu&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_9u5BhCUARIsABbMSPtHrfTutOf0ROkDV6lb7BQO-dqh2AMpqlyvTw7ncRMMkHjDIICIoA8aAiaZEALw_wcB

looking at attached screenshot , I don’t know why there is a significant hose run for it to be looped backed into the steering mine bas air in it and loads of it as when i power the car off loads of air come to surface forcing fluid out. I think my issue is leak or maybe hole somewhere like yours. I am going to drain the fluid and smoke test it when i turn steering side to side it soften up little before getting hard and believe issue is air leak somewhere as pump is fine

Too much work, but guess I will have to

Yep it is overflowing. All was working fine but been off for a year so guess something may have seized. Steering is heavy yes i will raise the front of the car and will turn side to side to test id bubble goes away

Anyone:(

Hi all my r34 has been off for over a year with occasional start. Today I noticed a lot of noise from engine bay when turning the wheel as if power steering has no fluid . Checked and loads of fluid had flowed out of the resorvoir. Has anything been blocked/ destroyed? Maybe fluid can’t get into pump and flowing out ? could it need bleeding by turning steering side to side? thoughts?

Chaps i am always curious whether oil material degrades if it sits in engine for say 2-3 years. In 2020 i changed oil on my r6 bike and since done 400 miles , would you change oil? oil looks like new and brown/gold colourish when pulling stick i always change it as it is performance bike/ and also on car however think you don’t need to really unless 5-6 years oil i guess questions is , does oil degrades when sitting in engine doing nothing or even on shelf? How about spark plug? Last time changed mine was 2014 on bike and since sone 6k in miles

Hi all, have an r34 with screamer pipe and want to do some track days i know can is easily 110db static but not sure what it is driveby, does anyone has similar setup, if so what is tours? Mine is forge engine with g30-770 turbo