drifter17a

All, had car for number of years all good. Changed to big turbo and around 650bhp and after 2 days of driving alternator suddenly died it is much hotter running car so thinking it could have killed it. Very strange no sign and suddenly dead do they have a relay or something? If i remove battery lead, it dies and don’t charge checked online and some say it could be relay. Is there relay for alternator ? looking at high amp ones they are £600 so pricey. thanks for any advice

Thanks bud would ground coat be same as the first wet laquer before base coat, seen that on youtube and didn't understand it when you donbase coat, i was 15 mins between coats and after 30 mins following last coat do laquer or clear coat otherwise as I understand you need to sand it with 1000 to create but surface if doing it say next day re paint types, i know mine is metallic but don’t really know different type of paint and whether mine is acrylic

When you say sand with 600? would you fill hollow with bonding compound or next layer of paint

problem fixed, the heavy shock proof is magic. I have shifted hard when accelerating quickly and can say it is almost gone and probably notice it once every 50 times. love this product

All, I have painted over years but with minimal knowledge so I am trying to up my knowledge. here are my qestions: paint procedure is as follow with points needed to be done on each stage, is that correct ? 1. Primer( if bare metal) or grit 1500 to create area for paint to stick if there is already paint. This will be 1 to 2 coat. one needs to wait 24 hours before going from primer to sanding to doing base coat. 2.Base coat, 2 to 3 coat. some say 4 to 5 coat which ? Waiting around 15 mins after each coat. 3. top coat, I don't really understand what this is, what is the top layer? 4.laccuqer or clear coat , 3 to 4 coat. around 15 to 20 mins after each coat 5.polish temperature is what is I have in garage which is around 15 to 20 degree. I have painted a metalic car using above and paint is sort of matt , is there specific laquer to be used with metallic?

Looking forward to put this in bought 4 quart for £90 and will post back on how it turns out

Mine is gtt r34 with 500 bhp looking to boost up to 650 as it is forge so think having heavy might not be that bad at the end due to power. just worried it won’t shift in cold morning

new refurb one is around £1300 and want to kill this, buy one next year and then swap. I can then rebuild mine and learn something . I can then keep as spare or sell it . Have seen many posts stating to use lightweight but some other saying heavy weight. confused now.

i take it your box was worn so it won't shift and redline brought it back ?

understood however does the oil help here? Some swear by it saying it fixed all crunching and syncro issues?

I am thinking of putting redline heavy 75w-140 . https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1023-red-line-heavy-shockproof-gear-oil-75w-140.aspx reading online some say it is not good for my gearbox as it will be difficult to shit. currently have castril gl 4 75w-90. tuner recommended this and looking online some people say it has fixed the syncro issue. My issue is from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th if shifting quickly. I want this to be in box for a year or two before buying a recon one and replacing it. I don't think lightweight or super lightweight work for me . Spoke to redline and they said use MT-90 but again that is same as my castrol so think the heavy shockproof is way to go. has anyone used this /?

Nice one spec and bhp? i assume you are refering to 0-60?

I have seen torque amp which is 48v turbo proving around 4 psi so it seems to match torque at very low rpm to what you achieve at 3.5k rpm hence boosting street acceleration i am done spending more money on rb25 as it is laggy so think if I put a top mount turbo with bigger turbo it will make acceleration even slower as boost will kick in around 4k

For instance i wonder how a 2 liter evo can get 0-60 on 3.4 sec with 2 liter engine lag will be huge and need 3 sec to get to the rev band i am interested as no matter what power, R34 with 2.5 engine struggles to get low 0-60 also what is correlation between engine size and fuel consumption. Me thinking engine of 2.5 should consume much smaller fuel than 4.4 my m5 consumes less With 560 than the r34 i can only think of new technology and extreme precision on mapping but still there is almost 2 liter difference and fuel usage is same

AssumIng you have two cars one with 4wd and one rwd, if you could overcome grip issue would 4wd and rwd have same acceleration givrn engine hp and weight is same? Also does anyone here drive 700+ rb25? Is it laggy on 2.5 engine? i wonder why i didn't change my bottom end to 3 liter to get much better torque and smaller lag

god this is so confusing so where do you lift from for rear? can't do pinch weld, is it arm ? if so where you place the stand/

Calm down buddy:) So many people saying so many different things so asking for various opinion to get this right. jack under diff is as saftey once the jack is removed and car is supported on rear arm . Did you see my pic 1? In your view having the saftey under diff is wrong as fall back ? Re front will take a pic and post just to make sure I understood correctly. You are right, I meant main chassis rail and so many forum say use that which is wrong in my view, Sills where the drawing from manufactor suggest to use aren't strong at least not on my car. One thing I haven't tried is get an adapter for the sills so the trolly jack bowl doesn't crush it and rather load is spread on the pinch weld . They are weak on mine as one side has split up so not sure if you meant to use it .

I agree bigger isn’t always better hence why asking for opinion on ratio, it was taken off alpha omega racing website. would gtr caliper be better than evo as some tuners claim? what is your concern? Bigger disc can mess up the ratio or performance?

see pics attached. I am slightly confused with front so let me get rear clarified first On Rear, lift on Diff casing as shown in Green and then stand on either the red on pic 1 which is just the arm on each side or the subframe legs shown in red again in pic 2. If you look at pic 2 with areas in orange they are crushed a little bit and worried of supporting can on it or lifting unless I buy the adapter which is a rubber piece distributing the load. On front, lift from cross member as shown in pic 3 using red and place stand where? We all agree not to use the side rails as shown in orange on pic 3. I used it before when people on differnt forum suggested to and it crushed it little bit so back off very quickly . I

Using trolly as need car up in the air by around 50cm on all corners to remove gearbox pinch weld is very risky as it is split and rusted a little bit. I removed rust and coated it with under-seal so don’t want to use it on front what do you mean by diff? i was referring to Subframe or cross member where streering rack is bolted to Just behind sump problem is i have one trolly and doing rear works on diff but front i have to first do one side toe eye and other while car seems to put lots of load on one side and fear toe eye will break causing a nightmare

Reason for bug brake is cosmetic really as don’t like the small discs 280 at rear bought the bm57 and thinking with the rear 350mm discs should have much better brake feel tunner was trying to sway me to buy gtr brembo gold which said is much better than evo brembo on breaking performance. anyone has any idea whether gtr gold all round is better than evo 6 front and rear? front it 350mm with 4 pot caliper evo 6 and rear is standard but plan to do evo 6 brembo( bought calipers) and combining it with 370z disc which is 350mm front is 350x32 and rear will be 350x20 with brake balance of 69:31 re b57, it came from reputable seller and has nissan logo engraved so don’t think it will be fake right?

All i have read through so many different posts and can’t find anything conclusive some say use pinch on the side which is wrong as i did once and it crashed so stopped some say put stand on the side liners which again is wrong as it crushed it little bit so far what I do is lift from rear diff and put stands on the sub frame legs next to diff on both sides for front lift from cross member and stand there sometime i can’t lift from front when rear is up so use toe eye either side, lift little and then put stands under cross member . You can’t lift from cross member and put stands there as trolly jack is in the way from rear i am stressing like hell as thing diff casing will crack specially when i am liften around 50 cm ( quite high) whee do you guys lift from rear? would diff casing not crash?

So tyre made a massive difference pilot 4s rear 275 front is pilot 4 which doesn’t really matter for acceleration. 0-60 went from 5.3 to 4.8 a wopping 0.5 sec !!!! it sticks like a glue, i can’t even spin wheel on first or hardly it does. It used to spin like hell on first and second on shitty falken

Has anyone here fitted the alpha omega evo caliper with 370z disc at rear? would it allow custom tension rod and arm to be installed ? When I asked alpha they said they guarantee it works on Standard car

Sorry for noob questions but what is zed? as z32 etc?