drifter17a

so here is my experience and update for people in similar situation https://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/autel-maxicom-mk808-diagnostic-tool.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqo3-BRDoARIsAE5vnaKsLh-sn8cKvzkdH1CrqG3mb3u-DT01nvn1Y5rBSiwnTwzv8FPTw-MaAvC_EALw_wcB can read skyline r34 however doesn't have consult port adaptor. so also bought below and confirmed it can read abs. I used the adaptor from consult to OBD and confirmed the Autel can also read the abs module. I will map the pins using my multi meter and post back for anyone in similar situation in the future. https://www.cardiagtool.co.uk/svci-ing-infiniti-nissan-diagnostic-tool.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqo3-BRDoARIsAE5vnaKIkRaLcxMIuGeknqHBl1XS_QzSPEgs4-kWQSrL8QI9_WZiq885suUaAlYrEALw_wcB I saw a code saying ABS motor off, so back to basics, fuse was gone. Ouch that hearts by missing the most simple thing and going to get ecu to read it

so I mapped the pins as per this link and my maxicom does not support it https://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/autel-maxicom-mk808-diagnostic-tool.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqo3-BRDoARIsAE5vnaKsLh-sn8cKvzkdH1CrqG3mb3u-DT01nvn1Y5rBSiwnTwzv8FPTw-MaAvC_EALw_wcB it looks as I am out of any options, can't find any consult 1 or consult 2 reader. as i understand consult 3 or consult 3 plus won't support my car. about to pull my hair. https://www.chinatopcable.com/product/nissan-14-pin-to-obdii-16-pin-adapter-connector-cable-4-pin-pass-through-for-nissan-0-4-meters/ been to an indepdent garage today and he tried his tool but didn't work .. done for the night but was thinking of trying combination below tomorrow https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32672838945.html or buy this? https://www.cardiagtool.co.uk/svci-ing-infiniti-nissan-diagnostic-tool.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqo3-BRDoARIsAE5vnaKIkRaLcxMIuGeknqHBl1XS_QzSPEgs4-kWQSrL8QI9_WZiq885suUaAlYrEALw_wcB

Thanks out of interest cu is consult ? There is loads of replica for consult 3 and inteface at affordable price so thinking of getting one

Took it to two nissan dealer and they won't touch it as it has link ecu thinking independent garage but haven't found reputable one you can buy consult on ebay for relatively cheap price, does anyone know if there is a consult bus such as can so all ecus can be reachable via a bus lane without going through main ecu?

You are right after re reading the post Are there any book or source which teaches you?

All i have standard diff r34 ans bought 1.5way super q I can remove diff and open it, is it just a case of swapping internals or need to do shimming? I can't see much videos on internet on how to do shimming so really puzzled thanks

I see what you mean my mates m5 which is stock did 192 with time to brake plentiful i drage raced him and left him for dust so ... i see what was meant here thanks all

So skyline is 650ish hp and no traction control. I feel very confident driving it around and it does slide but easy to bring back On other hand my m5 f10 has 600hp but feels much harder to control . I don’t drive it in mdm or traction of all day but only when i am on it and prepared m5 has caught me with full tranction on many times than skyline with no traction i think it is partly due to weight and being a 2ton car just wondering what people think

Please enlighten me as on serious note and maybe novice, i thought power is speed so if I have 650hp then i should be able to achieve that kind of speed i can very quickly get to 125mph and 100 to 200 kph is around 6 sec so don’t understand the principle of why it won’t have puff to get to 185 if gearbox can get there

Chaps looking to install super q kazz on my r34 i understanding basic mechanism of diff and gearbox and looking at box it arrived and pics , it is just internal swap with no adjustments someone mentioned to me i need to shim them etc. Has anyone done this work? i can take diff out no problems, is it simple process to replace if one has handy skills or adjustments is needed?

Would things like air temp and oil temp show if car is holding well ? for instance if i do full throttle for few runs and see temps going up or is it more tune may have problems so in 5th gear it could have wrong timing and engine pops? many runs done on dyno so i am thinking map should be ok. It is custom map so with 1-2 hours of dyno I guess there out to be map issues map is locked and my knowledge isn’t great to do it myself

Yeah kind of scared to push it to 180. need to do some research to find the max speed. Looking around it is around 186 to 200 have pushed to 150 and feels like a fly so if crashed nothing will be left of me . Even with air bag as car doesn’t feel that strong body wise i want to see how it standa against other cars so probably push to 150 and back off

I am thinking of taking my 650hp r34 gtt to air field to get top speed what is max speed of the 5th gear on standard gearbox? would you dare doing 180mph on old 1998 skyline with no air bag and traction?

And now huge screaming noise from both rear after say 30 miles pads are both brembo and disc is new cleaned it with brake cleaner but it is so loud on braking that people from few hubdard yards away turn around i didn't grease back of the pads and just stuck them in. Any thoughts? when bought caliper it had two metal peices going on back of the pads which I lost. They are the anti vibration plates and think that is causing a massive noise as I understand the squeeking comes from brake dust and contact surface but clearly i am wrong

So all back end stripped and subframe and diff bushing is solid aluminum and everything else polybush all arms changed including lower and two arms above now i expected some clunking but god at times it feels like the quick shift is going to break the solid aubframe bush or diff i am not worried about poly bushes as they have some play but solid has no play i fear when I clutch kick, it is going to tear the back end off on slow speeding reversing I can hear fair amount of clunking and knocking and higher speed less of it unless i bean it and shift down from three to two can someone share their experience please and whether solid bush because of no movement can break?

No worries 👍

So all sorted Issue was the disc was not bolted down with wheel nuts and brake dust metal was catching it not letting it sit fully All sorted and panic over I noticed the right drive shaft nut sits slightly further out then left so pin won’t go in as two layer/ double sided We had to open it and lock it as attached Does this look ok?

few killer hammers and then use hub puller and out. just needed to hit my bloody hand with hammer and jump around for 5 mins to get out !

any one ?:)

For BMW you can go to real oem and it gives you breakdown of all parts and item numbers even sometime include washer and spring , that is how detailed it is is there any similar site for Nissan?

Thanks:) will give it a go

Well i am helping a mate and he had removed the nut And damaged the thread do thinking if sanding few threads so can put the nut back on Will give it a go. Was suggesting he should buy a concreate breaker And push it out in 2 sec does bearing or cv not get screwed if hammered? re nut, some threads at top of the nut are gone but it torques to 210nm which is the recommended torque, leave it or replace?

end of the shaft where spline has a nut and clip holding it to hub the 36mm nut removed but halfshaft is almost welded to hub doesn’t budge with air hammer, heat or plus gas

So nut removed but drive shaft doesn’t budge if you put a torch around the rear drive ahaft, is there bearing or something right behind it where all grease will melt? air hammer does not work, heavy hammer doesn’t and also plus gas doesn’t it os almost welded

Waiting on alpha omega response spacers goes in one way only so i could not havr mis aligned anything as all holes must be aligned for it to go in calliper is good so only thing is the bracket is screwed? could camber or toe impact position of disc i. Relation to caliper? I wouldn’t thing so as knockle is not flexible so toe pr camber won’t pull bottom side down or vice versa