SLVRBAKSLPZ
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Posts posted by SLVRBAKSLPZ
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4 minutes ago, stellarimports said:
What were your voltage readings for empty and full? I am about to set this up with my powertune dash and platinum pro in my R33.
Check the previous page for the readings I had. I thought they seemed low but the other members had similar readings.
I used those and everything seemed fine, then some reason they weren't.
After a day the senders reading were 0 (on both the OEM and Haltech conditioner) from what I personally got from pulling the sender.
I went back to the voltage numbers from the how to write-up article and the level read numbers and close to the level I had which was nearly full.
From memory the article number were 0.27 full/1.31 half/2.53 empty.
I was pissed cause all the work to pull that sender out and get the reading and it didn't work as planned for me. I cleaned the sender rail and everything. Idk why it reverted to the higher readings.
So I'd say to u, use both sets of reading and see what works for u.
To add I think the haltech sender died. Maybe got fuel in it. I will check to see if it works again after my work trip, but the oem seems to work better imo.
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12 hours ago, BK said:
Yeah the Haltech GM ones are all suprise suprise, imperial threads. The factory thread is M12.
I am using a direct fit long nose M12 sensor on my 32, which is Hella sensor 6PT 009 109 041 used on some euro cars. Has Bosch EV1 connector.
A few people like Proximity motorsport and Platinum racing are repackaging and reselling them as their own.
Looks like this:
Thx man.
I bought the Haltech one for a Z32 thinking it would fir and it doesn't. I will get the one from PRP as it states its a direct fit on the stock plenum.
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What aftermarket fast response air sensor fits the stock RB26 plenum location?
I bought the Haltech one for Z32 and it doesn't fit. Is everyone just up-sizing the hole?
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9 hours ago, 26GTT said:
So for my r34 sedan
Full is 0.2v
3/4 0.6v
1/2 1.0v
Fuel light 1.6v
This is using a haltech fuel conditioner in line to my ic7 as i found it helped the gauge be less erratic
did you use the pull up at all? and whats your filter level?
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Ok thx all. Just gave me some assurance. Those numbers were way off compared to the fuel sender how-to, which made me 2nd guess my findings.
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What voltage are you guy getting on your fuel sender? When i checked mine the Ohms read proper. When i plugged up to check the voltage i was getting very super low numbers (Full 0.02 // half 0.13 // Empty 0.42.
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On 12/24/2020 at 3:06 AM, AndrewPick said:
So just confirming grey/red c29 wire to avi pin of my choice for signal and the light green/ silver wire c32 to earth input 30. Is this all you need to wire in for the fuel gauge to register?
Yes that correct. Sorry for the late reply
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4 hours ago, 26GTT said:
the signal wire is yes (purple pin 7) but the ground wire is (black pin 55) at the tank and black white at the cluster
Only solution i have is find where the black wire ends in the cluster area and splice off it / splice and run a wire from the tank to the cluster / buy the fuel sender conditioner
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49 minutes ago, 26GTT said:
Thanks for the reply mate, sorry thats a typo i am using pin 7. So last night i tinkered with it a little more, with the factory r34 dash plugged in you get a voltage value but once you unplug the dash you loose these voltage values.
Are the wire colors from the fuel tank match the wires colors of pin 7/55?
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5 hours ago, 26GTT said:
Hey guys im trying to get my fuel level to work also on my haltech ic7 dash. I have an r34 4 door and im using pin 6 as signal and pin 55 as ground but im not getting any voltage value with a multimeter. I currently have 1/4 tank and testing them two wires at the tank plug or at the dash i get the same reading (shows 0.01v this doesnt seem right). Can any one shed any light on this. Ive setup the dash on avi 1 and calibrated to 0 to 90 ohms, factory is ment to be 6 full 80 empty attached is a pinout for an r34 4 door for any one else chasing a diagram pin out. Am i missing a step or not testing the right wires??? Thanks guys
Far as the fuel reading it looks like you should be using pin 7 and 55
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7 hours ago, R324u said:
I was able to make some progress on it last night by doing this just saw your post., I had to set the dash to default, what car are you using this on an r32? I’m using pin 21/ 30 for the ground but those wire colors you mentioned don’t match up to what I have so I’m guessing you have a diff chassis
Yes those wire colors are specific to the R33
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1 minute ago, Tobz said:
Be interesting to see if tue oem to dash bounces around more while driving
I will investigate soon. I also have to see if my voltage setting are correct as well once I fill up.
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1 minute ago, Tobz said:
God damn it.... that would have been helpful when I did mine. At least I can swap it now and free up an avi for the haltech for the oil temp sensor
Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better.
My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly
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Just now, R324u said:
Yes I’ve tried to put it through the dash, just as the update but it does not do anything for me, idk I called haltech and they really didn’t help much either. Gonna have to keep messing with it
I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked..
The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18
The teal wire is the ground for pin 30
Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm
The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level.
You still are required to adjust the voltage.
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2 hours ago, R324u said:
So for the fuel level, it’s literally one wire to get it to work and it should self ground from the pump? No Matter how I configure it it does not work correctly anyone have any ideas ? I’m using the far left wire in picture for the fuel gauge
Gonna need the fuel level sender conditioner. Haltech makes one
On Haltech ECUs the signal wire goes into one of the AVI inputs
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1 hour ago, R324u said:
I was curious on wiring the the signals, hi beams, e brake, You just take a wire from the back of ic7 and then tap it directly into the plug off the cluster? I briefly tried it and it wouldnt illuminate on the ic7 dash, Is there something im missing?
Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions.
Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.
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1 minute ago, Lamsr334door said:
Interior looks amazing dude, the dash suits it so well, I've been tossing up with either an IC-7, microtech or AIM dash, also where did you get the AC control unit moulding from, I like that location
overall was this an easy install and would you recommend it ? if yes could u do a quick run down of all the wires u spliced into n stuff, i want a dash for my 33 but I'm lazy as f**k with wiring ( do it every day with work ) and can never be bothered wiring shit on my own car haha
Lol i get it man. Its like all the landscapers with $h!tțy yards.
It took a bit to figure out the wiring and what all was need as the speedo converts some signals. Overall it was an easy task once it was all clear.
Scan thru this post. I posted a link on a how-to for the fuel sender.
Speedo wiring to the aftermarket calibrator/ charge light info is in here as well
You will have to wire the hi-beams/turn signals/e-brake/parking light directly to the units connectors (IC-7). I took pics of the back of my oem cluster which is used to find which wires I needed to t-tap into. Sorry I dont remember the colors of them.
The HVAC/shifter surround is from Garage Yoshida
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On 10/30/2020 at 8:01 PM, SHOWOFFR32 said:
Well done mate!
post up some photos of the install!
Finally installed
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On 1/24/2020 at 2:55 PM, nouveau_poor said:
Hey all,
So I might just be a bit slow but wanted to check how these pedals are supposed to be installed. My R32 brake and clutch pedal are held on by a rubber portion and the accelerator by a clip. I got a set of old Nismo pedals that came with little screws/nuts but wanted to know how these are supposed to be mounted. Am I supposed to screw them on top of/into my current pedals? I don't see how they would be installed as complete replacements with the hardware that came with them. The R34 aluminum pedals on the other hand seem to be direct replacements as they look like metal versions of the regular rubber ones.
Gotta drill holes then install.
Remove the rubber pads off the clutch/brake pedals. Line up and use the countersunk hole off your new pedal for pilot hole references. Do the same for the gas pedal. Fairly easy
I got new pedals from Performance Pedals. They have a universal installation guide which will be similar.
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I just took leads from the ignition 12v/charge light and ran them to the factory bulb. I just tucked the bulb near the blinker relay
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I replaced my lenses on my 33 with Behrman's. They are clear and fit like OEM. you shouldn't have issues
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4 hours ago, Tobz said:
Ooo the other thing the original dash handles the lights on warning chime for the headlights
I personally didn't have issue with this. The parking light chime came on w/o the OEM cluster plugged in. May be an issue only for the R34s
Additionally, I ran leads from the charge wire and ignition +12v to the factory bulb. I just bent the small leads off the bulb and wrapped the wires around them. I then just taped it all together. Its just dangling near the blinker relay. It's a temp fix that I'm sure will be permanent after I forget about it.
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1 minute ago, SHOWOFFR32 said:
Well done mate!
post up some photos of the install!
Will Do!
Still waiting on the cluster surround from 3D Race Solutions. It will get delivered next week. I'll take some proper snaps once my interior is all buttoned up.
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I got my IC-7 hooked up.
Fuel Level and the speedo are now GTG.
The Haltech fuel sender conditioner is easy to setup. just need to get the voltage for empty/full and plug it in the the ECU.
I ended up using the SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface w/bluetooth. Easy to install once I figured out the wire color of the speed sender wires. The Dakota Digital app is alot easier to use then on the module. Just calibrate while using a GPS speedo app. There are seven different setups for the speedo. #6 is what is used. Once I got the speed set the gear indicator/ ODO/ trip on the IC-7 moved properly as well. I installed a fresh speedo sender as well.
You can also use the Haltech GPS module, but its not for use with the Platinum Pro software unless you wire in a pull-down resistor off the DPI input.
Hi-Beam / turn signals / E-brake are gtg as well. I will wire up a new oil pressure sensor at a later date.
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Getting fuel level signal into the ECU
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
I have a Plat Pro. i didnt have issues it any auto correction of the values or the resistor button being locked out