SLVRBAKSLPZ
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Posts posted by SLVRBAKSLPZ
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4 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Noting the 2 posters above are talking R34 and R33, the R32 setup is quite different again.
It uses a mechanical drive from the gearbox to the speedo in the dash, and then the speedo itself provides the ECU speed signal. So, unless the Haltech GPS module (not the racepack one grrr) is able to supply the required speed signal, the R32 dash pretty much needs to be kept if you want speedo signal to ECU and IC7.
In the R32 wiring (which I believe is same as R33), the ECU speedo input is pin 53.
Easiest place to pick up speedo and fuel level (and handbrake, indicators and high beam) in a 32 is at the dash.
Calibration for R32 fuel gauge is:
Ok looks like I need an aftermarket reluctor to set the speed properly as it changes the signal to digital. I think I will buy the Dakota Digital one and see how it works.
The fuel sender reqs a fuels sender filter so the gauge reads properly. The GPS uses the DPI input on the Haltech Aux harness
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6 minutes ago, Tobz said:
Aaaaa interesting, so yes I only know the r34 procedure
Yeah, that may be the big issue by not having the 2nd pin. I suck at reading wiring diagrams to figure it out 🤔
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9 minutes ago, Tobz said:
there should be two pins for the speed sensor on the ECU.....
On the r34 gtt diagram pin 29 and 58 are VSS. 58 looks to be for autos
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1 minute ago, Tobz said:
there should be two pins for the speed sensor on the ECU.....
OK for the R33, 7 is the Tacho speed signal and 53 is the vehicle speed sensor. is the tac signal the 2nd pin? that the only other pin i assume get spliced
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6 minutes ago, Tobz said:
R34 GTT went to to the dash first. There are two sensor wires that leave the gearbox near the front cross member on the driver side. I cut those, then wired in some new wires, went up through the gearbox shifter and routed them to the ECU. There are two wires, they are non polarised so it doesnt matter which way they are wired. There is no ground.
Ok. I will try to mess with this over the weekend. I will still install the GPS just in case I have troubles.
So re-wire directly to the ECU, one wire to VSS pin 53 and one to 12v power on the ECU
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1 minute ago, Tobz said:
Just needed to calibrate it, which was pretty easy, got my phone out, did a constant 60kph on a straight road, hit the calibrate button, and now its perfect
Copy. So just the signal to the proper pin (53 on R33) at the ECU then ground (any ground)? Does the R34 VSS go to the dash first like the R33?
I may try this and see what happens. I really didn't want to GPS module for the possibility of it dropping out.
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On 9/11/2020 at 5:53 PM, Tobz said:
So this is what I’ve worked out that you need to sort if you replace the dash;
battery light
central locking control unit
interior light (I think the door light on the dash powers the interior light when you open and close the doors.
speed sensor
then the wires you need to add to connect to the new dash are the indicators, hand brake, high beam
I have my IC-7 installed and I can confirm the interior lighting works w/o original dash
The IC-7 can display the battery voltage/set alarms so there's no need to wire for the light
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I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE
I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings
On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.
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5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Looks about right, diagram is giving me a headache lol.
Essentially you want the boost source from your plenum (only applies to RB26 as throttles are post plenum) and block off the OEM bleed.
Im sorry. seems all the pictures on Google are already scribbled on.
But basically the long green line needs to get routed to the plenum where the short ones goes into, correct? It looks like I can reach that line and re-route w/o pulling the plenum.
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1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Wiring fine, you'll need to slightly replumb
Is this accurate on how to modify the plumbing? Port 1 vent to Atmosphere // Wastegate to port 2 // Direct from plenum to port 3
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So replace the stock one with an automotive MAC Valve. As its Provisioned for PWM it will work intended with the Haltech ECU, correct?
also, will using the same plumbing/wiring be an issue?
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5 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:
Have you checked the wheels for markings or stickers? My guess is some old Work wheels from the late 90's
I'm in the US, so I'm unable to check. My broker should get back to me in a day or 2 with the info. I was curious if there were wheel guru's on here to help.
They do look like a mid to late 90's wheel, quite possibly Works. Haven't seen anything similar though.
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As the title says. Just bought the car and I'm curious of the brand of wheel. Waiting on my broker to get back to me on them, but seeing if anyone on here knows. Thanks
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On 2/20/2019 at 6:02 PM, rat32r said:
Ls2 and ls3 alternators are pwm controlled.
So unless you have a aftermarket ecu that you can program to control alternator output the stick with ls1 as it is plug and playHow does the voltage hold with the larger alternators? Is there a negative difference with the alternator size upgrade, that would require the "big 3" wiring setup? I doubt 140A would have an issue, but 200A+ may strain the stock wiring.
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On 3/25/2018 at 10:44 PM, rat32r said:
Just want to and you can get ls1 alternator from 140A -220A is the most I have seen. Ls2,ls3 all fit my kit but will require a different plug for charge light.
Do you know of any conversion looms to use LS2/3 alternators with the RB factory connector?
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Just here to spread some additional info on the Quest alternator upgrade. Going through some files and found this info again, so i figured I post it. I don't post much on forums, but I hope this info helps someone.
This Alternator was fitted on the 3.3L (VG33E) engines.
1996–2000 Nissan Pathfinder
1996–2004 Nissan Pathfinder In Australian Models
1997–2000 Infiniti QX4
1999–2004 Nissan Frontier
2000–2004 Nissan Xterra
1997–2002 Nissan Elgrand
1999–2002 Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager
1999–2004 Nissan Paladin
So in case the Quest specific alternators are hard to find, there are other options.
Anyone looking for a high output alternators, companies such as Mechman and DCPowerInc makes 250+ amp ones for the VG33E. It will definitely suit people who have demanding systems. They're a bit pricey, but You surely won't have any power issues. DCPower also makes a RB specific 180amp alternator seen HERE. -
5 minutes ago, 89CAL said:
There was a site you could buy all the different connectors from. I cant remember it unfortunatly.
Im not much help lolLol that's ok. I've seen the connection all over Google images, just not with a specific name.
I'm doing a quad projector setup. Making sure, I have my connectors right, for the splitters.
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11 minutes ago, 89CAL said:
What is the problem specifically? You can buy the harness from the plug to the light FYI For about $25 each
Replaced mine a while agoI'm planning on doing a Bi-Xenon retrofit soon.... The plug looks like a generic automotive connection. I'm just trying to the the specifics on the type.
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Oh yes. 95 GTR, sir. From what I gather the series 1/2 halogen assemblies are the same.
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Hello,
Does anyone know the type of male/female connectors that connect the series 1/2 headlight assembly?
Getting fuel level signal into the ECU
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
I looked again with good light and the Wires are Y/P and R/Gray.
They go into pins 15 and 17 on the plug B. Pin 16 Y/Green go to pin 53 on the ECU loom.