saliya

No reserve? "Starting bid AU $4,250.00" ... Regards, Saliya

I could hear mine; not _super_ loud though. The in-tank 044 I have now is only a shade if at all louder. To tell if it's _really_ the fuel pump, pull the fuel-pump fuse and see if you still hear the noise when you turn the key on. Regards, Saliya

Hey, Agreed - the fine isn't worth the performance (what can you buy for $10k?). A good cat's expensive, but if 250kW's being aimed for on stock turbos I'd be spending the money on a hi-flow cat so you can keep the flow (kW) up with lower boost levels. Incidentally, there's no way a stock GTR exhaust works better than any reasonable aftermarket system of 3" or above at 14psi on stock everything (which is the minimum you'd be running for 250awkw on stock turbos). The more flow, the more difference between stock and a good system. Seat-of-pants feel is a 25awkw difference at that level; haven't measured the 'before' but have driven from Queensland on a stock exhaust and changed only the exhaust for that guesstimate. Anyone that thinks a stock GTR exhaust works better than a 3" aftermarket one is welcome to buy my complete stock R32 v.spec exhaust for $800 (the cost of a reasonable full 3" system ) Regards, Saliya

Hey, it's to do with the expression - in english, not ADR-speak: "The speedo must read within +-10% of the actual vehicle speed" not "the vehicle is allowed to be travelling 10% faster or slower than the indicated speed" - they're two different things. For our example where we're interested in the bottom limit only Indicated Speed (can be) = Actual Speed - 10% of Actual Speed = Actual Speed * (100 - 10) % = Actual Speed * 90% But we don't know Actual Speed, we only know Indicated Speed. So to calculate Actual speed from Indicated speed, we get Actual Speed = Indicated Speed / 90% = 50km/h / .9 = 55.55km/h (well, 55.5 recurring, but anyway). The difference is bugger-all @ 50km/h (0.5km/h), but is more than 1km/h @ indicated 110km/h (122.2km/h instead of 121). And if they're going to go you for that 1km/h, it might be important... Regards, Saliya

Hey, ADR 18 says +- 10% (interestingly, for speeds above 40km/h - so yes, in theory your speedo could still be ADR-compliant and reading 50 (55.55km/h real speed) 60 (66.66km/h real speed) 110 (122.22km/h real speed) You probably wouldn't even need to prove that your speedo _was_ -10% at the time of the alleged offence - how would either party know otherwise? You probably _would_, however, need to prove that you were aware of your speed at the time. With respect to the 'aussiespeedingfines' site; surely, the best way to achieve the stated goals (cutting govt. revenue from speeding/parking fines) is to simply offer the e-book and the letter templates for free download. The fact that they must be bought suggests goals other than those stated... Regards, Saliya

The longer version of Sh@un's answer: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question622.htm and yes, it's a 'magic' number by virtue of the formula. Regards, Saliya

no, I get that - the injectors are what you tell it they are. Also, get that. Sure, you can apply a tune - the idea is with the correction that "the tune you had before" is the same once the correction is applied. And what I'm saying is that without including the 'before' correction figures, that just ain't going to be the case. If there's correction applied before (as in my case) it needs to be accounted for afterwards. As I said before, on the stockers this correction was applied _without_ flow-testing or with reference to EGTs. I know this because I saw the tune done. And as I said before, all I can assume is that the correction was applied because of some issue related to the RB26 on cyl5 + cyl6 - according to the correction, apparently they run leaner than other cylinders because of some other physical characteristic than injectors. The tune was done by Jim @ CRD before he left, btw. Regards, Saliya

Hmm, in general, no. In general, the more flow, the more noise. A frontpipe that's larger than stock will in general increase the flow - thus, increase the noise. Regards, Saliya

Hey, Thanks for your feedback, but I don't see how this can be right. I know the FAQ says this, but I think the FAQ needs updating because I believe the FAQ is assuming that there is no correction already applied. Why is an already-applied correction important? Hypothetically, let's say I have: * standard injectors * AFRs which are correct all throughout the rev range * a correction factor of 63% applied I chose 63% for the purposes of illustration - I don't know whether it's physically possible to map an RB26 PFC on std. injectors so that it will run with that much correction - because it's the correction factor that the formula says I should use for 700cc injectors. The important part here is that it's not 100%. Let's say I then change my injectors to 700cc injectors, and I do not alter the correction factor (I don't need to, because according to the FAQ, it's already correct). But it isn't correct - my car now runs rich... So I need to change my correction factor to "63% of what it was before" not "63% absolute" - see what I mean? Regards, Saliya

Hey, Actually, I originally went to 61.1 - the calculations shown in the FAQ ignore a situation where there is already a correction applied (which there was in my case). I think the correction is just applied as a multiplier (i.e. duty cycle is calculated, then multiplied by the percentage correction factor). So say 10ms is calculated, after a 62% correction it would be 6.2ms. I haven't done any real logging to see, and there doesn't appear to be any _definitive_ answer on this one yet. But if this thinking is correct, then the 'formula' for correction calculation should actually be: New Correction = Old Correction * Old Size / New Size So for me, it would be = 96.4% * 444 / 700 = 61.14% (instead of 62.86%). I've submitted this for inclusion in the FAQ. I might be completely wrong (I can't see inside the PFC to see how the correction's applied ) Anyhoo... my car was running a little lean on that setting, so I bumped it up slightly to see what happened. It's a little richer now, so my guess might be correct... we'll see. Baby steps... That'd be cool - I'm thinking of creating a database where folks can upload their PowerFC settings for various combinations of hardware. If you don't mind sending them to me, that'd be appreciated. Regards, Saliya

Hey folks, well, finally got around to replacing my std. GTR injectors with Sard 700cc jobs. Did some research and found that the way to do this is replace the injectors, calculate the new 'percentage' based on the new vs old ratio of sizes, and new lag time based on old vs. new They went straight in to the standard fuel rail (using slightly-different o-rings than stock) edit: these o-rings have the same OD and slightly larger ID than stock, but the stock rings seem to fit OK too. Jumped in to FC-Datalogit 'Settings 5' and set as follows in Injectors: Box1 (I presume this is percentage, it's unlabelled) Old => New 96.4 => 62 96.4 => 62 96.4 => 62 96.4 => 62 97.4 => 63.5 98.4 => 64 Car starts and runs fine on the current map with acceptable AFRs and just this change only. Haven't made it above 3k RPM nor into boost yet. Two questions: Is Box 2 (in Injectors) where the new lag of 0.18ms goes per injector? edit: YES. Put 0.18 into each box. Running slightly richer all over now, backed off global correction slightly. Made it onto boost, did some mapping. Oh for a local dyno. Or, do I adjust the following: My current INJ Lag vs BatV settings are: 16V 0.604 14V 0.772 12V 0.952 10V 1.132 8V 1.316 6V 1.396 and if so, to what? edit: No recommendations from anyone yet regarding batt voltage correction, so leaving alone. Anyone that has these injectors like to share their settings for 'Settings 5' ? Thanks, Saliya

From memory, the outer CV boots can be replaced with generic ones no worries. About $20 or so for a kit which includes grease and clamps. The inner ones have a special shape, I'm pretty sure when I did my front boots I had to order them specially. I think they were about $40 or so each from Crows Nest Mitsubishi, no grease or clamps. Regards, Saliya

Hey, you're talking about three different things. * How the gear teeth fit together - helical, or straight cut. Helical gearsets impose a lateral load on the gearbox but are quiet and generally used by OEM; straight cut gearsets have no lateral load but make lots of noise. You can get a combination set (e.g. straight 1-3, helical 5) so you can cruise quietly yet have a strong-as-possible 1-4. * How the gears are engaged - synchromesh, or dog engagement. Synchros are regarded as nicer to drive and lower-maintenance, dogs permit faster (and clutchless) shifting. Dogs can take up less space than synchros allowing for wider (and stronger) helical or straight gearsets. * The ratios of the gearbox - closer ratios allow for less RPM change between gears and can suit a 'peaky' motor better than longer ratios. If you're actually breaking synchros sounds like your shift technique could do with some modification. This would be important even if you changed to dog-engagement - even though the technique is different, bad shifting on a dog-style box is probably more expensive than bad shifting a synchro box. Regards, Saliya

I'd guess the map's been locked by the tuner; tuners do this for many reasons but most often to prevent Australians from 'f%^king around with the settings' (this is a bad Windaz reference ) I think to fix this you either need an FC-datalogit or the Apexi software+cable; don't know of a ready way to unprotect the map just with the HC alone. Regards, Saliya

Well, this might be it - I didn't observe idle cells before the cam change. To be honest, I didn't expect cams to affect AFRs the way they have, but you're right - time-wise my changes aren't that radical - percentage-wise, they are... It's now idling basically at N02/P04 although it accesses cells in N01/P03 occasionally. Anyone with stock cams/AFMs and a 3.5" or bigger exhaust care to post where their car's idling? Is this a relevant question? At this stage it's only low RPM and load that I've been investigating; so even hill starts etc. are in different map areas. Regards, Saliya

Hey, what I don't understand is why that would make it richer. The AFMs are measuring all the air that goes through, same as before... more air + corresponding more fuel == same AFR (but it wasn't, it was richer!) I'm thinking it has something to do with corrections for RPM... maybe... but I'd really like a good explanation for why the same air flow has resulted in more fuel being added... Regards, Saliya

Hey folks, just added some HKS 272 step 2 cams to my previously-stock-cammed RB26. Boost is now earlier and smoother (thank God) on the T04Z. Question is, why did I need to remove a stack of fuel at idle and pretty much everywhere below 3000RPM? I mean, it's still running of the same AFMs, so why is the AFR so badly out? @idle it was below 10.5 before I took out injector duration. Is there some explanation that has a sound engineering standpoint behind it? Thanks, Saliya

No way. I can pick up an R32 gearbox + transfer case free. I can't pick up 150kgs readily. I've not picked up a 2WD box + bits but there's no way it's 150kg less than a 4WD box + dice; because the 4WD box doesn't _weigh_ 150kg. Maybe you added an extra 0 by accident? Regards, Saliya

If you're running 3" off the stock turbo you won't need to do a lot to shut it up. The stocker turbos are pretty good mufflers right off the bat. Suggestion: put the exhaust on; drive to an exhaust shop and get it measured to find out what you need to take out. Adding a 3" resonator's probably good for about 3dB at the test RPM. Adding a full-blown muffler's probably good for about 6dB @test. The quality of the muffler (as in design and materials) determines how much flow you'll lose from adding it. Adding one of those dodge-arse restrictors was good for 10dB on mine before I put the cams in it... Regards, Saliya

Hey, first, I don't read plugs for mixture on the car because I have a wideband to do that and the method I use on the bike is not a Good Thing for a turbo car Second, I'm no plug-reading expert but I have done it a few times on my bike with expert help. On the bike, I have to run at the load and RPM I want to check, then hit the kill switch, coast to a stop and pull a plug. If I idle to a stop I can't read the plug because they're basically black like yours. Did you chop the ignition during/straight after a full-load run then pull the plugs? Because that line of what looks like fuel right near the electrode looks to me like the car was idled for at least 20 seconds before the plugs were pulled. You might need to try it again... Hope this helps Regards, Saliya

Ideally you'd use a socket torque wrench on all nuts; but as you and others have reported some of the nuts are pretty impossible to get to. I've not seen a torque wrench that will get into the smallest spaces. In this situation the 'elbow torque wrench' or 'feel wrench' is used. You basically need to guess at the torque. The easiest way to do this is probably to: * Set your torque wrench to the bottom end of the desired torque (RB26 is 18-24Nm, so say 18Nm) and do all the nuts up evenly till one or two that you can test set the torque wrench off. * Set your torque wrench to the figure you want (say 21Nm) and torque one reachable nut up. * Use the spanner that will go into the smallest space to feel 'how hard' it is to _just_ move that nut. You need to put your fingers in the positions they will be to do it up - usually quite awkward, and you need a gradually increasing push to feel this correctly - don't give it a shove. This is 'how hard' you need to do up the ones that you can't measure. * Do the remainder of the nuts up that hard. Check the ones you can reach with the torque wrench to make sure you're pretty close to the money. Regards, Saliya

Any puck clutch - don't slip it at all - there's not a whole lot of friction material and riding it will eat it. Before I put my twin-plate in I had a 6 puck single plate - dial up 1500rpm and drop it (tiny chirp). Lasted for 30k kms on my old daily-driven GTR. Regards, Saliya

I have tags on all my vehicles, they're all the RTA one. I used to have eway but sent them back because when I went to get a tag for my bike, eway said: a) their tag won't work on a bike b) I would pay a $10 'admin' fee every time it didn't work c) I had to pay a monthly fee whether they were used or not The RTA tag is, to my knowledge, the only 'supported' tag for a bike. I'm also pretty sure that it doesn't have the $10 'admin' fee for tag read failure. ('admin' is in quotes because it's ridiculous to me that I should pay eway for the failure of _their_ product) Regards, Saliya

Yep, that's the oil source. The returns are underneath. I don't know what the nissan block internals look like but I'd guess it's just a threaded opening into a pressurised oil gallery in the block... Regards, Saliya

Yes, you can undo the oil line(s) without removing the turbocharger (the recommended procedure from Mr Nissan is to do it prior to turbo removal). This is the oil line on the turbo itself; don't remember if you can easily get to the eyebolt/splitter on the block with the twins in place nor if you can do it without removing some air pipework and/or heatshielding. The easiest way to find out is to stick a hand and a spanner in there... you might find that a set of stubby ratchets makes things much easier (I did). I should mention that the easiest way to find out where your oil leak is coming from is probably to clean everything up with degreaser, start it, and then have a look. If you can get to the eyebolts with a spanner you should be able to get to them with your eyes (or eyes + mirror-on-a-stick) first - and looking's much easier than undoing, replacing, and redoing... Regards, Saliya