saliya

No, there were apparently regular R32 GTRs produced in 94 as well as (apparently) about 1300 v.spec ii's. There were about 1500 v.spec i's produced in 93. To the original poster: 93 and 94 R32 models are 'mightys' - you might have an R33 crank/oil drive, you might not. The only way to be sure is to pull and measure. Regards, Saliya

From the bottom of the car, use a socket + extension and undo the bolts on the dump <-> exhaust flanges (NOT the dump <->turbo flanges, they are inconvenient to undo while turbo + dump still on the car). Like I said before, you might find it easier to entirely remove the front exhaust section before trying to remove turbos. Regards, Saliya

Try http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...570&page=15 Regards, Saliya

Hey, You need to disconnect the dump from the exhaust; you might find it easier to remove the entire front section of the exhaust from both dumps to the cat because then you have plenty of room to move. Then undo/slide/undo/slide/undo/slide the turbo/dump assembly down off the manifold, then you can remove the manifold. Regards, Saliya

My personal experience: I ran 18psi on the twin stockers for about 2 years (with a PowerFC, exhaust, k&n) before I suffered the dreaded exhaust-wheel-in-cat syndrome. Plenty of track days etc. Without management changes, I don't know that boost that high is a good idea - because I don't know that the stock computer is mapped for those airflow rates. Put a wideband 02 sensor on it and see what it's doing. If you're running good AFRs and no detonation I can't see any reason for you not to run 18psi - the stock internals of my motor still seem to be running strong after several months of 18psi T04Z goodness (165 across all cylinders about a month ago). As always, YMMV and you might want to err on the side of caution - perhaps my motor is a freak of nature. If you were doing that, maybe back it off to 16psi... Regards, Saliya

If by 'drop-in' you mean 'will fit without clearancing' I don't think so. Pretty sure they have the std. base circle and my understanding is that anything with std. base circle and over 9.5mm lift requires clearancing for the lobes. I'm currently having the same HKS 10.2mm cams installed and the head is currently off being clearanced. I didn't personally check whether they'd rotate; but I'm presuming that the engine builder's not doing unnecessary work If you go for something with a smaller base circle and the same lift you might get away without head work but you will need different lifters; you might find that the price of those may well offset the cost of the head work (if you buy a named Japanese brand) ... Regards, Saliya

I got mine from importdriver.com.au; it cost $500. An electronic copy may probably be obtained for less... The workshop manual is pretty useless for this particular job, though Regards, Saliya

As far as I know: The under-bonnet plate says the same thing for v.spec and v.spec ii, model number is KBNR32RBFSAA which is different to a stock R32 GTR. There's no difference between the v.spec and v.spec ii apart from stock tyre sizes and year of build (v.spec = 93, v.spec ii = 94). They both had Brembos and the 17" BBS rims. Check the brake booster hose for a date stamp because you won't have the original tyres on it if complied for Australia. Should have a 94 build date. The last 6 digits of the VIN should also be fairly high. There are far fewer v.spec and v.spec ii R32s than 'normal' R32 GTRs; which is why a standard v.spec or v.spec ii is a bit of a collector's item. Regards, Saliya

A standard rule-of-thumb for a 6-banger seems to be 1 engine hp per cc of injector - thus, 550hp for a 6-cyl motor with these injectors with standard rail pressures. Regards, SW

Hey, I have a friend that can do what you want. He is expensive, and may not want to do your job if you have no clear goals or expectations. Hint: you need to have a really good idea about what you want to achieve; you need to have realistic expectations and goals; and you need to be able to afford it. A custom stainless muffler in the dimensions of your choosing will probably set you back in the order of $400-500 (my guesstimate, based on how long it takes to make one and his hourly rate). You can fit a _really big_ muffler on an R32 at the back Highlander Exhaust, 02 48712949. Ask for Darren, and ask for a quote. He has made them for GTRs before (got mine through noise testing). Regards, Saliya

Hey, as others have said; carby cleaner or electronics contact cleaner works well. If your AFM is constantly reading under what it should be (and thus, your car is running slightly lean) this will help - you will find that mixtures will richen up as the AFM now 'sees more air'. If you're having problems with your AFM voltages going to 0 and the ECU going into limp-mode this won't help. What probably _will_ help is the re-soldering sticky (basically, cut the sealant off, remove the metal shield, resolder, replace and reseal). Regards, Saliya

FWIW: Finally gave my Serck Speed 19-row cooler a thrashing at Wakefield. Did not see oil temps over 110 all day. Contrast this with my old B&M cooler in exactly the same spot (different fittings is all) which saw up to 130 before I said 'enough, it's not working'. Mine's mounted in the driver's side guard; I have no BOV's (there is not really room for both). There's a hole behind it to let air out. If your kit has specific mounting instructions and brackets/bolts etc; then mount it where the kit says to. Otherwise, just find some airflow that's not being used elsewhere and appropriate it FWIW also; you could fit a 26 row (or whatever-the-next-size-up-Serck-core-is) in the same spot that my 19-row cooler is fitted. I was going to do this if the Serck one did not cool enough. Regards, Saliya

AU peds have right-of-way at any intersection (not just in the city). Sure, the attitude perhaps should be adjusted (try doing that on a motorcycle!) but perhaps they just know the law and are exploiting it to its potential? Regards, Saliya

The new model WRX looks like crap (IMHO). Having owned both models, I would recommend trying to find a good-specimen secondhand 2.5L WRX (not STi); because it will be cheaper and go very nearly as hard. My stock 06 2.5 STi is slower around OP south and Wakefield than my old lightly-modified 98 2.0 WRX with the same driver (me). No doubt some of this is tyres, some is brakes, and some is familiarity - the gap (approx. 1.5 sec) exists, and is reproducible. Sure, they're rough, slow circuits, but... the gap exists. No doubt the STI is a good stock car; and tastefully-modified will bring it to my GT-R on pretty much every circuit I've been on bar EC and PI. But it's a heck of a premium to pay for the goodies (try $10k-ish). If you were looking at roughly the same money for a 2.5 STi as a 2.5 WRX, buy the STi. But I doubt that will happen anytime soon Regards, Saliya

Depends what you want to do with it and more importantly how it's been looked after for both. Chances are most of what you will look at will be crap because both cars are typically driven hard. If you could find a perfect stock example of each, for the same money, a WRX is probably a better buy for both street and track. Our last (98) WRX with unichip, exhaust, k&n panel, track pads and semis was good for 1.09.09 around Wakefield. I did 250k kms in it (had it from new) with the last 210k being on 17psi boost (124awkw @ CRD) with regular track time. Replaced one clutch @ 120k and one wheel bearing @ about 170k or so. They don't eat gearboxes if you don't wind the wick up too much; nor do they eat clutches if you don't spend all your time launching them. They are a fun car and the stock suspension on a 98 WRX will be in much better than stock '93 suspension. Regards, Saliya

Hey, With respect to registration/insurance/driving on the road: your car is different to what the cert says; meaning that you either need to re-certify the car as-is or change the car to match the cert. Since you won't get an atmo BOV passed in NSW say goodbye to that, and fix the pod/ride height. With respect to the loudness; just because your car has been modified post-cert does not mean your car is automatically in violation of the allowable loudness levels. Exhausts are an owner-approvable modification - if you have a meter reading using the approved testing method, you can fight that _particular_ battle and win. Have your car measured at an EPA-approved test station as it is right now, ASAP. Make sure you get a written copy of the result and the tester's signature. Then you can fight that portion of the fine. Regards, Saliya

Fixed link; PEBKAC. Check it out now... Regards, Saliya

Hey, edit: updated link to correct post hopefully I did this to my R32 GTR v.spec gearbox awhile ago for just over $1000. The entire bearing set was about $300 (could have been as low as $200 but their supplier was hoarding ) This is for non-genuine bearings. I would get baulk rings and gaskets from Nissan; the synchros will be about $125 ea and the gasket set should be about $20-25. The labour cost me $450; that was for them to do the strip, replace, and rebuild. I removed/replaced the box from the car. If you don't care about labour cost and/or off the road time then only fix what's broken. If I were you I'd probably do the same thing I did to my GT-R box - bearing/gasket set, and 2nd/3rd/4th baulk rings. Spend a little more now and avoid pulling the box to fix more worn/broken bits later. If you're not paying for labour you'll get away for roughly $500-600. You will need a press to remove the shafts from the centre plate; I've not seen a GTS-T box in person but it looks similar in FAST. Regards, Saliya

so... having read more of your posts, you're not wrong on the technicality... ... but you may require the services of a LART. Chill, and if you truly think you've been wronged take it upstream. There are appropriate ways of making a point Regards, Saliya

Hey, Sure there is; I connected my turbo and all lines/drains for fit prior to putting fluids etc. in the motor because I had to fabricate the lines and the drain. So I had to remove something in order to verify the prime... that would be the drain underneath (a pain) or the fitting on top (trivial ). I should mention all my oil lines are braided; doing that with inflexible pipe would be another thing entirely. If you have a known-fitting drain, then maybe you prime it before you refit the drain, as you say. Because mine had to be test-fitted, once it was there I didn't want to remove it again... I mentioned it might not be as thorough because the entire assembly's not primed; the actual difference is probably negligible. Regards, Saliya

MTQ (the Aust. distributors for Garrett) says 'yes'. They recommended that this be done when they supplied my T04Z. I cut ignition and injectors by pulling fuses; and turned the car over till oil came out the feed line, connected the feed and cranked a few more seconds before replacing and firing it up. This is much easier IMO than watching for oil coming from the drain side; though possibly not as thorough. It took a surprising amount of cranking - for about 5 seconds a go, about 6 times (30 sec or so total) to see the oil come out the feed line. Regards, Saliya

Hey, depress clutch -> neutral -> release clutch -> rev match to new gear -> depress clutch -> new gear -> release clutch The synchro matches the input side of the box (connected to the clutch) with the output side of the box (connected to the back wheels) for the relevant gear before the sleeve engages. While in neutral you rev-match to the RPMs that the new gear will require (clutch must be out - motor must be connected to gearbox). So you're reducing the work that the synchro needs to do. It also means that you need to know what RPMs your intended gear will need at your current road speed. Regards, Saliya

Hey, I don't know that the claims are overrated; if the cat is the one I'm thinking of the actual area of flow through the cat material is more like 6". Does it look like this: You might be able to cut the ends off the metalcat cat to get a true 4" cross-section; I don't know. Regards, Saliya

Not sure who you're responding to, but I doubt that this is the rule that was invoked. If it were, there's no way the mod would have suggested copy/paste the original content to a new thread - that's just as much spam as a link. Regards, Saliya

Actually, I'd have to agree here. A literal interpretation of 'external links' would have to be links to off-SAU. If the rule actually meant 'any links' there's no reason to include 'external' - the inclusion highlights its meaning. The rule as written and explained seems to be to prevent people from posting a for-sale item on a non-SAU site (the example is ebay) then linking to it from SAU. If the link is internal to SAU then the rule as written is not broken - the mod is enforcing an incorrect interpretation of the written rule. The mods are supposed to be able to exercise their discretion; but the rules are there so people know what behaviour is expected of them (and the rule once written should be followed by the mods too). If the desired behaviour is in fact 'no links' then the rule should be rewritten without the word 'external'. Personally, I can't see the point in maintaining two threads with potentially exactly the same content. I don't see why links shouldn't be permitted within intra-SAU threads. If we're worried that a person will 4-sale in every forum under the sun, perhaps a rule could be written like 'keep your 4-sale posts only to relevant forums - don't post in NT if you live in NSW' for example. FWIW I don't think it's an 'abuse of power' - I think the mod _has_ incorrectly-interpreted the rule, but that this isn't a deliberate or malignant interpretation. The mod is doing what they believe that they should. And I'd like to see the mod's justification as to why they think 'external links' should include 'on-SAU links' too Regards, Saliya