saliya

Hey, if you can, you want to expand it gradually (more gradually than other pictures show). If you have the space, try for the 1" expansion over 20cm or so - in general, the shallower the expansion angle, the better. This becomes harder if you have to curve it at the same time Regards, Saliya

Hey, chances are, you won't snap them on the way out; you'll snap them on the way in. I don't think I could get _all_ mine off with a socket; I bought one of those 5deg stubby ratchet spanners to get at some of the ones underneath. Seriously worth it To remove: Generous WD 20 mins before you start anything Crack all of them say 1/4-1/2 turn before completely undoing any If you snap one you can pull the manifold off over the top. After removing the manifold I would replace all the studs. It's cheap insurance Lock up 2 of the nuts you just removed against each other on the stud and remove the stud. If you have snapped a stud and you can't get any purchase on it to remove it, the best thing to do might be call a professional. They will likely be able to remove it _without_ damaging the thread - removal is relatively easy, removal without damage much harder. If you want to do it yourself, you need an easy-out set, a left-handed drill bit of the appropriate size, a drill that can operate in reverse, and a centre punch and hammer. Punch the exact centre of the stud (this is important!) then use the left-handed bit and the drill in reverse to make a hole for your easy-out. If you are _very_ lucky the bit will catch in the stud and whiz it out for you with no further effort (if you use a 'normal' threaded bit and it catches, it will whiz it all the way IN for you with no further effort ). Keep the drill exactly centred so you don't wreck the thread, till you get far enough into the stud for your easy-out to go in. Remove the stud. Regards, Saliya

Agreed - or even 'how much does turning the wick up by "x" reduce the length of the fuse' I disagree. A collection of size == 1 samples becomes more truly representative the more samples are provided - and what we _also_ gain is the ability to view the evidence and make deductions on our own. No offence to R31Nismoid (and other moderators) but each person's e-pinion is skewed by personal experience (and sometimes, they have the basic facts wrong: cf post #8 in this thread). Sometimes I get the feeling that individuals have made their minds up about something and they use "evidence" that supports their opinion and discard that which doesn't. Better to collect the personal experiences and let everyone make their own judgement call. Regards, Saliya

R32 GTR, stock turbos/dumps, 5" K&N pod, PFC + BCK, 4" straight-through exhaust (FS, see below). Made 253awkw/550nM on a slipping clutch @ 18psi, tuned at CRD. 12.5 @ 111 on a G-tech. No dramas for 18 months before I added mufflers (including half-a-dozen full track days @ Wakefield). Added mufflers to bring noise down from 105dB to 95dB, lasted another 3 months (inc. 1 track day) before boost started to fall off (down to 15psi on same duty cycle) and then shortly after that blew the exhaust wheel off the front turbo. Inspected cyls 1-3; no bits of exhaust wheel that we could find. Make of this what you will Personally, I think the 18psi was OK _without_ the mufflers; but that with the added backpressure things just got hotter and nastier and it all became too big an ask. Perhaps even without the mufflers things would have blown when they did - nobody knows. And 4" with no muffling isn't an option for pretty much everyone. 18 months at 18psi was fine by me. It all comes down to whether you're prepared to _chance_ blowing stuff in exchange for more welly. Every time you wind something up in a car, you will either find the limit of it or another related system - cars are designed as a package. Regards, Saliya

Depends where you are. In NSW, there are a few tests: * Stationary noise test is at least 75% of the engine speed which corresponds to maximum rated power. Say max power is 6000RPM, test is 4500RPM or higher. Not less than 3000 RPM. Not louder than 90dB. * Drive-by test is slightly different, and described in ADR28 (get this from the DOTARS website). Approach at less than 50km/h in 3rd gear, WOT for 20m, close throttle. Can't be louder than 90dB at any time. *IM240 test - done at Penrith or Botany, PPM of particulates and gases measured. Also has a noise component, also cannot be > 90dB at any time. Don't think you can artificially lower your rev limit; and even if you did the flames would probably be noisier Regards, Saliya

Could this be due to the way that the boost controller was operating? Was the single-solenoid config operating as a bleed or inline? Is the dual-solenoid config operating as a bleed or inline? I can fit my head around 'one solenoid cannot bleed off enough air' - which could be rectified with: * adding another solenoid * replacing solenoid with bigger solenoid * changing the solenoid operating configuration so it is not a bleed I'm really interested in this one! As you may have guessed, I can't wrap my head around "You MUST have 2 solenoids" - it doesn't make any sense (but waiting to be educated Thanks, Saliya

You can get cams that have more lift but require no extra head clearance by using a smaller base circle... Regards, Saliya

Couldn't find anything obvious in DOTARS ADR list you probably want to speak to one of the RTA's Engineering Signatories to get a proper answer. Regards, Saliya

A turbo will work the best with nothing behind it, yes. Of course, you'd set fire to everything that was directly behind it, but meh Regards, Saliya

See the forsale in my .sig. That exhaust is a bolt-in for a 32 GTR and was 105dB @ 3500RPM with twin highflow cats/no mufflers. It's now 95dB @ 3500 with the 2 mufflers in it. Stock turbos. 105dB is, IMO, insanely loud; 95dB is IMO not. Stock turbos do an awesome job of shutting up your car. But it all depends on pipe size and load. If you're talking about just deleting the rear muffler and keeping everything else; you're going to be restricted by the stock pipe size but you will probably pick up 3-5dB in noise. It won't be _insanely_ loud as the stock pipe is quite small and you will still have the centre muffler. Regarding the cat stuff; there's another thread I posted in showing what I believe the best legal solution is here. Regards, Saliya

Should be pretty easy to solve this one. Go to an exhaust shop, tell them what you want. If it happens at a particular RPM, show them the RPM. Tell them _exactly_ what you want fixed, and ask whether they will back their work. That is, if they do work but don't fix your problem, they won't charge you. If you're reasonable in your expectation and you clearly communicate what you want to them, an experienced shop will be able to say 'yep, this will do what you want'; or 'no, you can't do what you want with the system you have' to within reasonable limits. If they say 'we don't know what will happen' you don't want that shop. The easiest way, of course, is to hear a car that sounds like what you want - and see if you can replicate that Regards, Saliya

hmm; brassier as in sharper/harsher. Think the difference between the sound of someone playing a trumpet at normal level, and someone blowing the crap out of it but in the next room - the volume is the same, but the tone is different. Adding a resonator _can_ be used to cure 'drone' (if you mean a resonance at a particular RPM); but it needs to be the right size and material - you need someone experienced to sell you the right resonator. If you only have a rear muffler, chances are the right resonator will do just what you want - but you need the right one. Regards, Saliya

Replacing a muffler with a similarly-sectioned piece of plain pipe will make it louder (unless the muffler's not really a muffler, which I've seen before, on some of the available-on-ebay systems ) Usually removing a resonator results in a 'brassier' note; harsher, a little louder. If you're having clearance problems with 3.5" your exhaust has dropped a mount, or the car is too low HKS stuff usually fits pretty well so I'd be checking the rubbers before I deleted a muffler. I have an R32 with SK's suspension guideline setup (355mm centre-to-guard) and it's passed engineering (that is, 100mm clearance _everywhere_) with a 4" system. If all mounts are OK, and it's still too low, you _could_ try an offset muffler to keep it quiet and get more clearance (or, you could set the car to the correct ride height ). Regards, Saliya

The legal limit is 90dB for passenger cars according to the information available from the official ADR website: http://www.dotars.gov.au/roads/motor/design/adr_online.aspx in particular, ADR 28 is what I'm referring to. Note that ADR 83 apparently supercedes 28; but ADR 83 has plainly been written by someone who was smoking some kind of illicit substance at the time (it's full of conditions like "if it's the second tuesday in the month after 2pm but NOT in a full moon, subtract 1dB UNLESS the car is owned by an Amish vegetable farmer in which case add 1dB ENSURING that the summer solstice is observed"). I had a quick browse through 83 and I was unable to determine what the noise limit for my car within 30 secs; ADR28 allows ready lookup so plainly our pollies are doing their jobs of making things even more incomprehensible. Idiots. edit: T04Z, HKS 50mm gate, 4" stainless exh, 6" cat, 6" resonator, large muffler w/ steel wool: 85dB with restrictor fitted and closed 89dB with restrictor fitted and opened 93dB with no restrictor 97dB with small 6" rear muffler Any exhaust place with a dB meter can measure; the measurement procedure is defined in the ADR. The meter is supposed to be calibrated regularly too. Regards, Saliya

Hey, what light(s) you using? One of the ones I mentioned? Something else? Thanks, Saliya

Hey folks, I'm in the process of getting my GTR engineered; the engineer's said that I need a centre high-mount stop light for him to write a report. Thankfully, that's _all_ he's asked for Hella make a couple: boot-mount window-mount and I'm sure there are equivalents made by other vendors. But what I _think_ I'm looking for is a spoiler-mounted one; hence this post Does anyone here know of where I might obtain one of these in gunmetal grey? Or anyone want to sell me an R32 GTR gunmetal grey spoiler and I'll make my own? Thanks, Saliya

This is the cat you want. I think it's made by magnaflow, it's a metal cat. It is classified as a 3.5" inlet/outlet cat, one side is centred, the other is offset. No flanges on it, and it costs about $400 if you get it wholesale. There might be a GB on that will get you one cheaper. The actual cat section is the bit in the middle; the other parts have no material in them and are to expand it out from 3.5" or whatever your input size is. If your input size is smaller, make an expander I sectioned it back to suit my 4" pipework and external gate's outlet - you could probably put this into 6" pipework if you really wanted (but you would be well outside the manufacturer's designed operating range then). Am going to get it emissions-tested; when I do, I'll post the results. Seat-of-the-pants feel is that this single cat outflows the dual 3" catco cats I had on my last exhaust by a little... but that's only a feeling at this stage Regards, Saliya

bump. No pretty (or otherwise) pics.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117414 SW

bump. a pic of the new exhaust. (at least it's better than a random bump)

(...in which case all the wheels won't be rotating at the same speed... ) Regards, Saliya

Hey, on my 32 GTR, there's no drive to the front while cruising. I understand that because of preload the 33s and 34s are different. Note that even if there _is_ drive to the front wheels (say, 50%) as long as all the wheels are rotating at the same speed there should be no wear on the clutch packs... Regards, Saliya

So - anyone else with a d-jetro? If you don't want your information publicized I'm happy to add it to the initial post anonymously. Anyone want to 'dob in a mate' (I will PM them privately) :laugh: Thanks, Saliya

Hey, put a fuel pressure gauge on your supply line and see if your pump's running out of flow (you will see fuel pressure follow boost initially, then fall off _before_ boost if the pump runs out of flow). If you can borrow one, this will tell you a) straight away and b) cheaply if your fuel pump is the culprit. edit: of course, you need to do this on a dyno or on the road (you're interested in fuel pressure at high rates of flow, not at idle). Regards, Saliya

Quiet. You should barely be able to hear it, if at all. You've most likely got it mounted to something solid; which is transferring the vibrations to the tank itself and amplifying the noise. Case in point: took my GTR pump out of my car (was quiet as) when fitting an 044 and loaned it to a mate to try in his Cefiro who had a GTR pump we thought was faulty (because of how loud his pump was). Fired it up, same noise level (i.e. my once-quiet pump was super loud). The pump mounted onto a stalk hanging down from the lid of the tank with no dampeners; we're pretty sure this is why it was so loud. Regards, Saliya