saliya

Hey, I just bought some through Nengun: as per the photos, the number on them is 195500-0830. Did you miss a '1'? Did I get the wrong ones ? Regards, Saliya

Hey, I had one custom made by a friend with stainless everything for my R32 GTR. It was around $1500 in materials, and $400 for 2 x 3" catco stainless cats. He said that he'd do the same thing for someone else for $4k. Dual 3" off the standard dumps, through cats, to 4" through a 4" resonator and a 4" muffler. He had to fabricate the resonator and the muffler because we couldn't find anything big enough at the time and 105dB @ 3700 was too loud for the coppers. It's 95dB @ 3700 now (which is still too loud, but I don't get pulled over anymore). Then I lowered it as per the SK GB recommended settings. 355mm/345mm centre-guard (I think!); I think it's now too low. The resonator touches the ground where there are lumps in the road. I would pull the resonator out and just put a bit of 4" pipe back there, but... I'm considering selling it to pay for the new exhaust that will be required for my new T04Z. PM me if you're interested; I'll take a photo of it (it's off the car at the moment) and put it in the relevant for-sale section. I'm thinking of getting something in an oval section to get the flow without the clearance issues... Regards, Saliya

Hi folks, well, in the process of making final decision for turbo + exhaust manifolding for my car, and I'm trying to decide which is the best exhaust manifold for my proposed setup (RB26, T04Z + 38-44mm external gate). Background: there are 2 T04Z exhaust housings that I'm considering; the 0.81 single-entry and the 0.84 split-pulse. I'm told that the single-entry 0.81 housing _can_ be had for money from Garrett (don't know how different this is from the HKS single-entry housing but I'm not considering the HKS turbo at all at this stage). I haven't managed to find a new cast RB26 single turbo manifold (I think HKS and a few others used to make them) so I've discarded the idea of going this way. I've been recommended to use stainless because of the bad oxidation properties of mild steel at very high temperatures. I've been recommended to use mild steel because it's less likely to crack than stainless. I'm told that if the stainless is put together properly and designed for expansion properly, it shouldn't crack. I'm told that stainless manifolds always crack. Some of these statements could be held to be mutually-exclusive I'm looking at the following options: * New Trust stainless, $?, don't read Japanese too well and it doesn't look like it's readily available individually * New HKS stainless, $1500ish * 6boost mild steel, $1200ish, can be either single-entry or split-pulse, wastegate flange to suit my wg * XTR premade stainless, $1100ish, T3 flange non split-pulse, flange to suit 44mm tial gate * N*power premade stainless $700ish, T4 split-pulse flange, flange to suit various wgs * Ebay-and-the-like used product, nonexistent < $2000 at this time * Ebay-and-the-like new product "HKS-style" $350 edit: add exhaust mounting locations and manner because they might be important Can anyone that has an RB26 single conversion post on their exhaust manifold experiences? PM me if you like, or cut/paste the very next part into your reply. * who made it? * how much it was? * when it was installed? * what HP you are running? * what material? * tuned-length or not? * split-pulse or not? * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? * list the mount points and manner of the rest of the exhaust: e.g. 'flexible hanger off gearbox, flexible hanger near rear axle, flexible hangers above rear muffler'? * your overall impression of it and any other information that you think is worthwhile? * any recommendation from the above options? end cut/paste part edit: added n-power 2006-04-11 edit: added trust 2006-04-16 * who made it: Trust: * what material: stainless * tuned-length or not: unknown * split-pulse or not: split-pulse * how much it was: unknown * when it was installed: 1 month ago * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? none yet edit: added 2nd trust 2006-06-30 * who made it: trust * how much it was: unknown * when it was installed: unknown, 5000km ago * what HP you are running: unknown * what material: stainless * tuned-length or not: tuned-length * split-pulse or not: split-pulse? * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? cracked * list the mount points and manner of the rest of the exhaust: e.g. 'flexible hanger off gearbox, flexible hanger near rear axle, flexible hangers above rear muffler'? unknown * your overall impression of it and any other information that you think is worthwhile * any recommendation from the above options edit: added hks 2006-04-16 * who made it: HKS * what material: stainless * tuned-length or not: tuned-length * split-pulse or not: split-pulse * how much it was: $1500 * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? none * your overall impression of it: very satisfied. edit: added hks cast 2006-06-27 * who made it: HKS * what material: cast iron * tuned-length or not: no * split-pulse or not: no * how much it was: $500 * any problems you've had: cracking, mild surface rust * your overall impression of it: not overly impressed. edit: added 6boost mild steel 2006-06-27 * who made it: Kyle Hopf, 6boost * how much it was: $1240 * when it was installed: still in progress * what HP you are running: aim 500HP * what material: mild steel * tuned-length or not: looks like equal-length; what RPM tuned for don't know * split-pulse or not: split-pulse * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? none yet * your overall impression of it and any other information that you think is worthwhile: manifold itself is nice work. Had to make a few phone calls when not received on agreed date. Fair price. * any recommendation from the above options: none yet. edit: added ebay stainless 2006-06-30 * who made it: ebay? * how much it was: $350? * when it was installed: August2005 * what HP you are running: 600?rwhp * what material: stainless * tuned-length or not: unknown, looks like tuned-length * split-pulse or not: split-pulse * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? none * list the mount points and manner of the rest of the exhaust: e.g. 'flexible hanger off gearbox, flexible hanger near rear axle, flexible hangers above rear muffler'? unknown * your overall impression of it and any other information that you think is worthwhile: has not broken * any recommendation from the above options: sounds like it's a very good deal. edit: added custom racepace 2006-06-30 * who made it? Ben @ racepace, 9/6 Halloway Drive, Bayswater 9762 9421 * how much it was? depends on requirements:P unsure of exact cost because project is 4 years old * when it was installed? 4 years ago * what HP you are running? 420-430kw * what material? unknown * tuned-length or not? unknown * split-pulse or not? unknown * any problems you've had (cracking, rusting, other type of failure)? none * list the mount points and manner of the rest of the exhaust: e.g. 'flexible hanger off gearbox, flexible hanger near rear axle, flexible hangers above rear muffler'? unknown * your overall impression of it and any other information that you think is worthwhile? Never had problems with it. Perfect condition even after all the pain we've put it through * any recommendation from the above options? Anything made by Ben is worthwhile. Perfection at it's best. Regards, Saliya

FWIW my mate that runs an exhaust shop reckons that the metalcat cats outflow the other high-performance cats he has fitted (catco) He won't fit the magic cats, I'm not sure whether this is because he thinks they're crap or because they're plain illegal. www.metalcat.com.au reckons that the xforce and magic cats are illegal, because they don't have a 'CA stamp' (info on the homepage). Would anyone that has an xforce or magic cat look on it to find a CA stamp? I'm going to fit the biggest damn metalcat I can find to my new exhaust, won't really be able to post 'before' and 'after' dyno results though. Regards, Saliya

This happens consistently? That is, if you turn it off, turn it back on for a few seconds then start it runs again for a few seconds? If so, kink in the pressurised fuel line inside the tank, most likely. Enough fuel is getting there to start but not maintain the motor. Unfortunately you'll have to pull it back apart to see... Regards, Saliya

First things first, d*mn that looks like fun Hopefully more people get a chance to do that before it's outlawed completely The webserver is sending back a bad Content-Type: header (text/plain instead of what it should be). The browsers that are displaying crap are actually doing the Right Thing , but yes, Save Target As will work for those browsers too... Regards, Saliya

My PFC BCK does not operate as a bleed; it operates as a gate-between-outlet-and-actuator. That is if the solenoid is open all the time, the WG cracks at the earliest point. If the solenoid is closed all the time, the WG won't open till backpressure opens it. So no requirement for dual solenoids or a bleed at all. Do other PFC BCKs operate in a different manner (i.e. as a bleed?) Regards, Saliya

NOTE: You WILL NEED to modify the cradle, meaning that your old fuel pump will not mount back in with the original mounting hardware. You can of course mount the old fuel pump in the same way the 044 will be mounted should you need to put the old one back. If you want to use the original mounting hardware, you need a fuel pump that's the same size as the original (i.e. not an 044). Yes, the 044 goes into a GTR tank, but no, it's not a drop-in replacement. Yes, it's an EXTERNAL pump, but no, it hasn't broken yet. Yes, this is what I did, but no warranty is express or implied. YMMV. If it breaks you get to keep all the pieces. edit: these instructions pretty much apply to a drop-in replacement pump (e.g. Nismo, see Beer Baron's post) but you of course won't need to do any cutting and shutting. You will need: EQUIPMENT: 1 x No.2 phillips-head driver 1 x hammer 1 x very large flat-blade screwdriver, or small woodblock, or suitable tool to use to undo ring around fuel gauge ASSEMBLY. n x various rags for soaking up fuel and cleaning things 1 x pair plastic hose-clamp pliers, big enough to clamp fuel hose. 1 x pair bull-nose or long-nose pliers 1 x metal lathe (or correct-sized fitting, see below, we didn't have one). 1 x heat gun 1 x die-grinder PARTS: 1 x Bosch 044 fuel pump 2 x large cable ties (1cm across, 30cm long) that will not degrade in fuel, OR 2 x worm-drive clamps long enough to go around the pump + an extra 8cm. I used cable ties, time will tell if this is a Bad Thing 30cm 3/8" ID EFI hose (edit: this apparently needs to be special butyl/butyl hose, see post from Leadfoot below, I got 'fuel hose' from Pirtek and it's not exploded yet but YMMV. If you mount the pump right you can get away with not using any extra hose). 1 x large freezer bag 1 x 'blue' ring terminator to fit over 5mm post 1 x 'red' ring terminator to fit over 6mm post 1 x 5mm nut 1 x 6mm nut a few assorted cable ties of various sizes Fittings I used: BOTTOM OF PUMP: 18mm metric nipple to JIC machined to fit inside sock pipe (someone want to find a pre-made fitting?) TOP OF PUMP: 12mm metric M to 1/4" BSP M 1/4" BSP F-F elbow 1/4" BSP nipple 1/4" BSP check valve 1/4" BSP to 5/8" hose tail FITTINGS CAN VARY! All you need to do is figure out the fittings needed to get from the top of the pump through a 90 degree bend through a check-valve to the outbound fuel line. The reason that you need a bend is that when the pump is sitting in the cradle a straight fitting will be too long (it will hit the side of the tank). INSTRUCTIONS: * Read right through to the END OF INSTRUCTIONS marker. Do it now. Preferably with some sort of cold drink in your hand, don't make the drink _too_ alcoholic until you've finished the whole process If you can, start this job with a LOW fuel level in the tank. * Open the boot, remove lining from bottom so you can see the spare wheel. Right next to that is a square black plastic lid with a rubber grommet in it, that is the cover for the fuel tank access. Take a photo of this for me to put here. Remove 4 screws with phillips-head driver or appropriate socket and put them in a safe place. Lift the INSPECTION HOLE COVER. * You are now looking at a white plastic cap with 2 x metal hose fittings coming out of it poking forward and 2 plastic electrical fittings pointing upwards. This is called the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY. edit: photo from steve_gts4 of FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY showing fittings removed. Don't remove fuel hose till later! One hose will have an arrow pointing towards the front of the car, this is the TO-ENGINE hose and is currently under pressure. Do not remove it yet!!!. The other hose has an arrow pointing towards the back of the car, this is the low-pressure RETURN line. Remove the two electrical fittings by squeezing in the appropriate places and pulling (how many times have you heard _that_ before?). Ensure any grommets that are part of the fittings stay with the fittings. Now you can move the INSPECTION HOLE COVER out of the way (it's no longer attached). Hit the area with a vacuum or some air to remove any dirt/rocks/small children that might be sitting around - we don't want those falling in the fuel tank when you get it open. * Go back to the front of the car and turn it over a few times. This will relieve the pressure in the TO-ENGINE fuel line so when you undo it you are less likely to get fuel in your eye. This is a Good Thing. * Back in the boot, look on the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY for an orientation marker (a white triangle pointing towards the front of the car). If you don't have one you have to mark the orientation of the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY because it's important to put it back pointing the same way. Mark the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY and the surround with an indelible pen (a dot is fine on each) such that the dots line up. * Put a couple of rags near/under the hoses, use pliers to squeeze the RETURN hose clamp and slide it past the bump in the fitting, remove the RETURN hose and tuck it underneath the LHS out of the way (make sure you can reach it! . * Clamp the TO-ENGINE hose with the hose-clamp pliers. If you don't, you will probably get fuel in your eye. Undo and remove the clamp that fixes the TO-ENGINE hose to the fitting, store it somewhere safe. Remove the hose, being careful not to get fuel in your eye. Do not remove the hose-clamp pliers yet! * Use a) the correct tool b) your hand c) knockometer + very large flat-blade driver or d) something else to remove the black plastic ring that holds down the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY by turning it anti-clockwise. Take 5 minutes to mop up the blood if you selected option (b). * Lift the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY partway out of the hole, being very careful not to put strain on any hoses, wires, or the two really important parts (the gauge + float and the empty-tank light part). They are attached to the two coathanger-gauge wires in the pic. edit: Photo from steve_gts4 showing removal from tank. Unclamp the hoses on the bottom, marking (with a cable-tie, or position of the clamp you slid down) the RETURN hose. It's very important to put this hose back on the right place Squeeze and remove the two electrical fittings. Being very careful, you should now be able to remove the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY from the tank. Do not bend any of the wires or interfere with the movement of the float. Put the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY somewhere safe. * Point the TO-ENGINE hose into the tank and release the hose-clamp pliers. Try not to get fuel in your eye. Tuck the TO-ENGINE hose out of the way next to the RETURN hose. * Remove the rubber SEAL PACKING that is around the hole. Put this in a freezer bag, and into your freezer. The manual says to replace this every time, but if you don't damage it and keep it cold you should be able to put it back on. * You should now be able to shine a torch down into your tank and see your FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY almost directly under the hole. It's aligned east-west. Reach down to the 'back' (RHS) of the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY and feel for a clip on the bottom. Lift the clip slightly and you should be able to push the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY toward the centre of the tank about an inch; this will free it from its retainers on the bottom of the tank and allow you to lift the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY out of the fuel. Photo please. Wait for the cradle/strainer section to drain. * Remove the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY from the tank, along with its hoses and electrical connections. The RETURN hose goes to the bottom of the assembly, so make doubly sure you've differentiated it from the TO-ENGINE hose (which comes out of the top of the pump). edit: photo from steve_gts4 showing FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY out of the tank. * Undo the bottom clip holding the fuel pump CRADLE in place and slide the CRADLE out of the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY being very careful of the STRAINER sock (it's fragile). Undo the clips that hold the top of the CRADLE in place, and remove the top of the CRADLE and the RUBBER 'PLUG'. These items will not fit back on because the 044 is physically too big, so just mount them on a plinth somewhere that you can point it out to your friends. * Note down which colour wire goes to which connection on the existing fuel pump. The negative connection will split into 2, with one going to the terminal on the pump and one going to the body of the pump. This is not needed for the 044 pump which has the negative connection earthed to the body internally. * Remove the hose and electrical fittings from the FUEL PUMP. Remove the FUEL PUMP from the CRADLE. Remove the star-washer that holds the STRAINER in place and remove the STRAINER from the FUEL PUMP. * Now you need to do a bit of work. If you put the whole STRAINER onto the 044 you will find that it is very long and does not sit nicely in the cradle. The solution is to cut about 1" off the end of the blue plastic pipe that comes out of the middle of the STRAINER - you need to leave enough to push your fitting that you will make next into. You have to be very careful when doing this not to get any of the plastic into the STRAINER. The plastic is very hard, so you can use a hacksaw to cut a groove right around the plastic (do not cut right through!!!) and then snap it off. Photo please. Does anyone have a fitting that is the correct O.D. to match the I.D. of this tube ? * Take the 'correct' fitting or an 18mm metric <-> JIC nipple that you have machined to fit inside the tube and mount it on the pump. Mount the STRAINER sock on this fitting ensuring that the FRONT EDGE of the strainer sock is parallel with the 2 x electrical fittings on the top of the pump. The idea is that when the STRAINER is in its correct place in the tank, the electrical fittings will be parallel with the wall of the tank (photo please!!!!!) We had to use a heat gun lightly on the tube to get it over the machined JIC fitting and to rotate it slightly; but it is now a very secure fit. * Using a die-grinder, cut away that end of the cradle that prevents the pump from sitting properly. * Mount the 044 + STRAINER to the CRADLE using worm-drive clamps or very large cable-ties. There are pretty much only 2 places you can mount the ties without interfering with the CRADLE mechanism edit: photo from steve_gts4 showing sock fitted and pump clamped to cradle. Note alignment of bottom of sock and electrical terminals as above. * Cut off the pump-body-earth right near the split (so you now only have two electrical cables, +ve and -ve instead of two -ve). Cut the existing electrical connectors off the cable. Strip and re-terminate the cable with your new connectors, making sure that the LARGER connector is attached to the POSITIVE cable that you noted down before. * HOSE FITTINGS: You might do this part differently. Ensure that all fittings seal tightly either with o-rings, thread tape, or interference. Fit the 12mm metric <-> 1/4" BSP nipple to the top of the pump. Fit the right-angle F-F 1/4" BSP elbow to the nipple. VERY IMPORTANT: Ensure that the 'top' of the elbow is parallel with the electrical connectors on the pump, AND that when the PUMP/STRAINER is oriented exactly as it will be in the tank, that the elbow is pointed towards the FRONT of the tank. You may need to use a copper washer of "the right thickness" between the elbow and nipple to ensure that this is the case. edit: the elbow _can_ as in this photo point "up"; you do not want to point it "back". photo from steve_gts4 showing pump back in cradle ready to go back into tank. Fit the 1/4" nipple to the elbow. Fit the check valve to the nipple, ensuring that the valve's arrow points AWAY from the pump. Fit the HOSE TAIL to the check valve. * DISCONNECT the very last short (about 5cm) section of EFI hose from the in-line SURGE ELIMINATOR. Replace this hose with the 20cm of new hose you bought, replace the clamp. You need the extra length to avoid kinking because the pump outlet has now moved. * Replace the CRADLE in the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY. Connect the electrical connectors (make sure they're the right way round! ) and connect the new section of hose you just put in to the HOSE TAIL. Make sure you clamp it. In fact, double-check all your clamps and connections now, because once you put it back in the tank you don't want to have to pull it back out again. * Replace the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY in the tank, keeping the hoses and wires towards the front of the tank. Make sure there are no kinks or twists in the hoses. You need to sit the ASSEMBLY in the middle of the tank lined up with its locking rails, then push it towards the RHS of the car till it clicks. Give it a good wiggle to make sure it's locked down. * Go get your SEAL PACKING out of the freezer, remove it from its bag, and put it back around the hole the same way it was when you removed it. * Replace the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY, being careful to reconnect all connections properly. In particular ensure that the RETURN fuel line coming from the bottom of the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY goes to the one marked with a cable tie in this photo. edit: photo from steve_gts4 showing FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY with return line marked Ensure that no hose/cable fouls the fuel gauge float (if you have kept the cables/hoses towards the front of the tank there will be no fouling). Make doubly sure all clamps/connectors are done up, then push the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY back into place. Double check orientation marks to make sure it's in the right place. * Replace the black ring that holds the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY in place. * Reconnect fuel hoses (ensure that RETURN and TO-ENGINE hoses are correctly oriented; your RETURN hose should have a squeeze-type clamp on it and the TO-ENGINE hose should have a screw-type clamp). * Reconnect electrical connectors and turn your car ON. Look for fuel leaks in/around the fittings you just reconnected to. If there are no leaks replace the INSPECTION HOLE COVER and put the screws back in. * Take your car for a light drive, checking for fuel problems. A fuel pressure gauge is ideal, but even if you don't have that you can be especially observant for a few km. If you detect any type of problem you must lather, rinse, repeat till there are no problems Enjoy! END OF INSTRUCTIONS If there is anything I've left out, or you have any suggestions or pix, please drop me a PM. Saliya

Hi, Nice tute If you're planning on putting the old part back on the car you _don't_ want to hit the nut (even upside-down) directly with a hammer. Hit the conical surface that the threaded part is protruding from - you can see that this has already been done to the part in photo 7. Several (fairly hard) bangs from a hammer around the side will make the end just fall out. [edit] Only if you're _definitely_ throwing the old part away should you hit it directly (and even then, you probably shouldn't, because then you will _have_ to throw it away ) Just so it's clear, I've drawn the plane the hammer hits on and the 'rough' angle you come in at. It's hard to do 3d in 2d And yes, I have used/will use this method even with the availability of a ball-joint separator - they can make a real mess of things. Regards, Saliya

check that the warning light globe is working by switching ignition to 'on' without starting the car... Regards, Saliya

Hi, jack the car up, wiggle the wheel and look for loose stuff... Regards, Saliya

"it depends". If you can't do any of the mechanical work yourself: It will likely cost you around $150 to get the box removed and looked at. Then cost depends on what you've broken and what you want to replace. If you just did 3rd gear it would probably be a few hundred because you've probably damaged both gears. Won't know till the box is opened. While the box is in bits it's probably worthwhile doing a bearing set and most 32 GTR boxes want synchros for 4th and possibly 3rd by now. Synchros are $120ish RRP each and bearings are similar. I wouldn't buy non-original for either of those. Then probably another $100-$150 to get the box back in. Say $1300ish by the time you do a few bearings, 2 synchros, the probably-broken gears and remove/replace the box. If you _can_ do some/all of the work yourself you'll save money, because you can only fix the broken bits. Still few hundred in it if the gear(s) are broken. If you rebuild it at least you know it's been done right. Regards, Saliya

FWIW, to get a pod engineered in NSW is possible; you need to pass a drive-by noise test conforming to ADR 28.01 (attached). I'll paraphrase the test: this is _not_ the complete test but should be OK for a manual skyline. Any errors or omissions are my own, if you want the real deal refer PDF . Car drives along road A-B Microphone 1.2m above road, 7.5m away from car path centreline (pointed at 'X'). Markings on road at AA (10m before) and BB (10m after) 'X'. EDIT: See diagram in PDF. ASCII don't cut it. ----------------------------------------- A AA<-10m->X<-10m->BB B ------------------------------------------ * Vehicle approach AA at steady speed, 3rd gear @50km/h * Fully open throttle at AA, accelerate till rear crosses BB. * measure sound for AA-BB trip, record maximum dB level. Subtract 1dBA. * 2 separate measurements not differing by more than 2dBA must be made. * Level must not exceed 90dB. Regards, Saliya ADR_28.01.pdf

Um; does this disable the 4wd _without_ disabling the ABS? Reason I ask is that a cheaper and easier way of doing this (at least on the R32 GTR, dunno about other models) _if_ you don't mind disabling the ABS at the same time is to just kill the ignition while the wheels are turning (i.e. while you are rolling). You don't even need to let the motor stop rotating; use the clutch, turn off the ignition for a fraction of a second while you are rolling, turn it back on, let the clutch out. The 4WD/ABS disables itself till you come to a stop. Of course, if this disables the 4WD _without_ disabling the ABS and that's what you're looking for, disregard the above Regards, Saliya

This is interesting news; not something that I knew about. Any workshops you know have the appropriate equipment to measure the important gases (i.e. the same emissions that the RTA measure)? I have a copy of the relevant ADR showing how the test will be run (no, can't post it, but I may be able to post a precis in my own words; but that's always dangerous ). Thanks, I'm still pulling gear together in the hope of doing all this in one shot. The cert isn't for shoving in Mr. Plod's face and then telling him to get f^&ked; it's primarily to ensure that I'm still insured if something terrible should happen. If there is the need for a policeman to check under my bonnet, it's also to ensure that they know I've done the right thing. Regards, Saliya

I used to have no mufflers on my GTR; dual 3" (with cats) into 4". That was 105dB at 3500RPM under no load (i.e. stationary test). It was louder under load and at higher RPM, but I never measured it. With a 4" resonator and a 4" muffler it's now 95dB @ 3500 (same test). Regards, Saliya

just as an update - I have had some responses from a few forum members (thanks!) who have put me in touch with some promising people. By that I mean, I've spoken to a couple of engineers on the RTA's list that think there should be no problem with what I want to do hardware-wise - nothing is unreasonable. Provided the engine's internals are in good enough shape, I should be able to pass the emissions test. *Apparently* there are some engineers out there that don't even want to see the IM240 test; I of course haven't spoken to any of these but even if I had I don't think they'd want their names here. I will post further as more information becomes available. Saliya

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...s/vsi/vsi06.pdf vsi06.pdf mentions 'fitting of handling enhancing suspension components such as roll stabiliser bars and up-rated shock absorbers' as a minor 'owner certified' modification. Adjustable coil-overs should be covered by the latter - though I'm not sure whether it's universally agreed that the Jap coil-overs are 'enhancing' :( The place to check is the RTA, but based on the above evidence you should be fine. Regards, Saliya

Hi, Thanks! According to all the engineers I've spoken to and the RTA, the test is free. You book it in at either Penrith or somewhere-else-in-NSW-that-I-didn't-write-down. I'm particularly hoping that those folks who have 500HP+ street-registered GTRs will pipe up (PM is fine!) and say 'yep, here's how I did it' or 'no chance, but I didn't worry' or 'something between'. Or that a shop which has modified cars that have passed the test will pipe up. Or something Regards, Saliya

Hi, thanks for the reply; does your rego/engineers cert say that you have an aftermarket ECU? Who supplied the cert ? PM me if you like... Regards, Saliya

Hi folks, well, this is another one of those 'please help' posts. It's also long I have an 1993 R32 GTR v.spec that's virtually stock. I want to make the following mods: larger new FMIC (mine is starting to deteriorate) new cams (272 or so) 700-800cc injectors in-tank 044 Garrett 0.84 T04Z + manifold + external gate 5" pod (already in car) Apexi PowerFC (already in car on stock AFMs) Other changes that I want to make (like forged pistons, new crank, oil pump etc. etc. don't need to be certified tmk). I have followed the RTA recommended process and contacted some of their listed 'Vehicle Signatories' prior to commencing work in order to ensure compliance certificates etc. once the work's done. The problem: emissions tests. In particular, something called an IM240 which is conducted by the RTA. One engineer said that boxing the pod is all that's required, another said I need to do dual drive-by emissions tests and have the pod quieter than stock to satisfy the EPA. So maybe the pod should be left off the certs. All stock emissions-control stuff apart from cat (I have dual replacement catco cats) is in the car. All of the engineers I've spoken to (and they've all been quite helpful) bar one have given me many reasons why the car will fail: injectors, cams, and PowerFC seem to be the most common. One said 'just do what you want to do, and we'll see after you've finished' which isn't really all that helpful to me. I don't want to spend several thousand dollars and find out that I've made my $40k v.spec a $10k track-only car. So. Is there _anyone_ who has a NSW street-legal 500HP+ GTR? If so, can you please post what mods you have made, who engineered your car for you, and (if at all possible) the results of your IM240 emissions test ? If you didn't pass the emissions test, but someone certed mods for you anyway, can you PM me their name ? If you don't want to post in public, can you PM me ? Thanks, Saliya

My bridgestone RE55S tyres are asymmetric and directional. That is, you purchase a tyre for a particular side of the car and 'rotation' is front-to-back only. There are a couple of different RE55S models; I've only ever bought the WT tyres. Perhaps your RE55S are a different model? Regards, Saliya

You mean if you take them off or replace them with a different single recirc BOV will the car suddenly stop working ? No. My car doesn't have the BOVs; I removed them to put an oil cooler in. It works fine. But BOVs are supposed to have tangible benefits; one of them being that of less turbo wear at gearchanges due to the turbos not 'running into a solid wall of air' if that makes sense. And you'd need a fairly large single to give the same flow area as the twins; I don't think I've ever seen one that big. _Someone_ probably has, though Regards, Saliya

Flow area - you could achieve the same effect by having a single larger one with the same flow area as the two added together, but there are probably good reasons why Nissan went with two smaller ones rather than one larger one that I'd hesitate to guess at. If you've got the whole assembly you'll see that they join back to a single recirc pipe which then splits back into two under the stock airbox and rejoins basically just before the inlet side of the turbos. no idea; having not pulled one apart I'd assume it's to permit air equalisation between the atmosphere and the bit 'between the diaphragm and the valve itself'... The sound's related to the volume of air and the speed it moves at - you might find that one is louder/higher pitched than two together because the air will have to move faster through a smaller total orifice and for longer to get rid of the same volume of air. I've never tested the difference, so that's pure conjecture. Probably very similar to any other VTA BOV. It's just air moving around, after all. Some BOVs have funny characteristic sounds, but I doubt that the GTR ones will... suck it and see Regards, Saliya

Be careful that they don't have an odd internal shape. When I was doing the suspension upgrade for my 32 GTR I had to replace 2 boots and the inner front LHS one isn't circular inside Apparently some universal ones with the odd internal shape exist, but I couldn't conveniently get one (ended up with a genuine kit for about $70 from Macarthur Nissan). The other boot kit was $30ish (boot/2 clamps/grease). Regards, Saliya