saliya

bump. Plenty of interest, no sale as yet. I'm thinking that perhaps delivery instructions are offputting, so price drop to $1100, or $1150 fitted. Anybody looking to flow some serious gas should investigate this exhaust. Saliya

I'm guessing you mean 'more money in RB26 parts'; Crower is "fairly" big in the US scene, and the US scene is a "fairly" big market And no argument there; I don't think they even do stuff specially for the RB26. Not at all, that's exactly the info that I was looking for; I think perhaps R31Nismoid has mis-interpreted what I was saying (to try to restate - "worst" means "worst that HKS offers" not "worst on offer"; and I've inferred "worst" from "cheapest"; don't know how to make it clearer). The Crower kit costs roughly the same as a duty-exempt HKS step-1 kit (don't think that can happen, but you never know ) Yes, the step-3 stuff looks awesome, and yes, it has a pricetag that's several thousand dollars more. But if the step-1 stuff is the goods, a buyer should look very closely at it since it's a few gorillas cheaper than step-2 or 3, OR anything similar from Tomei or Jun. Got any photos of step-1 stuff? Regards, Saliya

Hi, "On the Internet" We don't have a FTA in place with .jp yet. But let's pretend we do, so we can compare the Nengun HKS "step 1" kit with the Crower kit I mentioned because pricewise, they're fairly similar excluding Customs duty. There are 3 "steps" listed for the HKS kits; and about $2k difference in price for each step. I don't know what _exactly_ is contained within each kit; so I don't know why there is a difference. To compare the step 1 HKS kit with a custom Crower kit is comparing "the best" from Crower to "the worst" from HKS on a price basis (I'm extrapolating "the worst" on a name-and-price basis, step 1 vs step 'n', not any other reason). I personally don't think that's an apples-with-apples comparison. If it _is_ a like-with-like comparison, then the HKS kit is exceptionally good value (and begs the questions - why the extra $2-4k for the other HKS steps). Good info, regardless. Regards, Saliya

Hi, Converted it's around $AU7200. OK, Jap kits are about $2k cheaper now than the last time I looked, but please post location information for a brand-name Jap kit (like Tomei, Jun, etc) of comparable quality (i.e. billet crank, billet rods, forged pistons and ancilliaries) which I can buy for less than that. A quick search reveals an average price of around $AU10k... perhaps I'm looking in the wrong places? Well, yes, but... it depends on how long it actually takes for a Jap kit to get here - I'd rather a supplier said 'you will wait 16 weeks' and actually have the thing turn up 16 weeks later, than say 'you will wait 3 weeks' and have the thing turn up 8-12 weeks later (which seems to happen for a lot of the less-commonly-sold and more-expensive stuff from Japan). Anyways, post prices and locations, and I'll update my data. Availability of a high-quality lower-cost stroker kit for the RB26 is good news for all. Regards, Saliya

Hi guys, thanks for the responses so far; nobody else reading has a DVD-MP3 headunit? Sounds like it will be worthwhile taking a DVD full of MP3s down to a dealer and popping it into every headunit with a stopwatch. If I do that, I will summarise... Regards, Saliya

If you're seriously considering a stroker have a look at http://www.crower.com/cat/stroker.shtml - they have a great rep, and the pricetag ($US5500) has to make you ask 'are those Jap kits really worth the extra $5k?' Regards, Saliya

Hey guys, Can anyone that has a DVD-MP3 player post: * make and model of MP3 DVD player * how long it takes from initial insert of a DVD with MP3s on it to hear the first MP3 (call this "load time") * how many files (approx) on this MP3 DVD * the total file size (approx) on this MP3 DVD I have a cheap ($350!) Sony MEX-R1 DVD player that will read an ISO DVD image and play MP3s off it. It of course plays video DVDs and regular CDs, I haven't tested MP3 CDs but I'm guessing it will work. But hearing the first track (after initial insert), or track it was up to (after switch-on), on an MP3 DVD takes about 60-90 seconds depending on the how full the DVD is. If I start loading the DVD, but then switch to radio before it has fully loaded, it stops loading the DVD (i.e. loading cannot be done in the background, and is restarted when switching back to DVD). Once it has loaded a DVD, the information is cached till the car is switched off or the DVD is ejected - when switching from another source back to MP3 DVD, it only takes a couple of seconds before it starts playing MP3s again. Loading other media (CD-Audio, DVD-Video) is 'normal' - a couple of seconds delay, then sound. It's only DVDs with MP3s on them that take so long - I'm wondering whether my player is abnormal, or whether they all do it. I don't _particularly_ care about audiophile-ness - that is to say, the sound of the Sony unit is just fine with me - I just want to have convenient tunes in my car deck from an MP3 DVD. You'd think that would be a relatively small ask in this day and age. Please help!!! Regards, Saliya

You run the thermostat inline with the filter; all oil goes thru filter + thermostat. The thermostat has 4 connections, IN, OUT, TO COOLER, FROM COOLER and at below-thermostat-temp flow goes IN-OUT (i.e. bypasses cooler). At thermostat temp flow goes IN-TO COOLER-FROM COOLER-OUT (i.e. through the cooler). Regards, Saliya

PM sent, phone off, still alive? Regards, Saliya

You need to find the workshop manual for your engine. There's a whole lot of extra stuff other than removing bolts, inserting new camshaft, doing bolts back up again. My manual was $500ish from importdriver.com.au but you _may_ be able to find a .pdf floating around the Internet somewhere. If it's an RB26, the manual on pp EN-71 - EN-76 describes the camshaft removal/install procedure. You of course need to _get_ to the cams first, via removing a whole bunch of other things ACCORDING TO NISSAN: REMOVAL (for RB26) EN-71 has a diagram showing the cam bracket removal order. Mark the cam brackets to indicate position and direction. Then remove the cam bracket bolts by loosening them gradually in several stages (the do-up recommendation is 1.5 turns at a time, so I'd use this for removal) in REVERSE OF THE SEQUENCE shown below. FRONT 1 5 9 13 11 7 3 2 6 10 14 12 8 4 (whole bunch of other stuff snipped, read it in the manual). So according to the manual, to undo, you start in the centre and work your way out a little at a time, to do up you start at the ends and work your way inwards 1.5turns at a time. Regards, Saliya

^^^ what he said; all the pros I spoke to before installing mine recommended in at the bottom, out at the top. I'm sure there's a reason for that. This was for engine oil, not trans oil btw. I'd also put a thermostat on there somewhere so that oil doesn't go through the cooler if it doesn't need to, particularly if this is something that you drive on the street. You also want to get it in the airflow somewhere, and if it's at all possible, shroud/duct it so that air has no choice but to go through it. Shrouding made a big difference with my in-guard cooler. Regards, Saliya

Folks, I'm looking for an original R32 GTR airbox, condition of filter is unimportant. PM me what you have and how much you want. I'd like to spend around $50 (well, I'd like to spend around $0, really ) Regards, Saliya

... if you're measuring _after_ the cooler, a lower pressure drop across the cooler due to restriction should theoretically see a pressure _increase_ at the measurement point (i.e. higher boost) all other things being equal. So in theory, your newer cooler could be a larger restriction, resulting in lower displayed boost at the plenum. All other things, of course, aren't equal. If the cooler is cooling better, you should have denser air at the measurement point - lower volume - lower boost, all other things being equal (they aren't ). I'd guess that this is what's happened - did you happen to take any temp readings before/after the change? ARC have a good rep for a good reason; shame their kit's so expensive. Regards, Saliya

Hi folks, well, it's time to replace 3rd and 4th synchros on my R32 v.spec. I had toyed with the idea of purchasing a spare box, swapping out and selling the old one, which will most likely be the easiest option but then I don't know what I'm getting. I've removed/replaced an R32 box before. I have the workshop manual for the R32; but I think the box on the v.spec is a 33. So I don't know how close the manual is to reality in terms of the internals. So. Is reconditioning a gearbox something for an amateur to attempt? I'm reasonably good with mechanical stuff. I'm also happy to pay my local guy to do it (anyone have any estimates on time for a professional to disassemble and reassemble); but I wanted to actually learn something. The floor is open... Saliya

I'd say they're 235/45/17 if they're 235's. Are they a pair (left and right?) PM sent. Regards, Saliya

My R32 is 38psi + boost Regards, Saliya

bump price drop to $1250 Come on folks, this is a bargain on a 4" stainless exhaust Saliya

I think the easiest way is to remove the gearbox xmember then lower the gearbox which tilts the whole box/motor back; then you can get at the bolt. Regards, Saliya

Anything that's 3.5" or over is a bastard to shut up. In my .sig I have an 100mm exhaust that flows, for sale, but I've never measured it trackside on full noise. It's 95db @ 3500 no load, (with cats/resonator/muffler)... On the back of a napkin: 2 x 3" exhausts (ok, 2.82") should flow as much as a single 4" So if you could find a 3" exhaust configuration that was 95dB on full noise, 2 of them _should be_ 98dB. Some things to think about: * are most of your competitors within the 98dB limit? If not, how loud are they on full noise trackside? * you'll probably only get pinged if you're noticeably louder than other cars in your class or your competitors complain. * are other car noises (induction/tyre/gearbox/etc) included in the level? If not, how are they eliminated? * if you're in with a bunch of other cars, there's no way they can measure just you * if you're alone in front, button off past the measuring device I've heard plenty of racecars that are louder than 98dB (this seems to happen a lot with rotors and smaller-capacity engines). I've only ever seen one car get chucked off the starting grid because it was too loud, but I've seen a few get pinged because competitors complained. There are a few genuine competitors on this forum, might be worth PMing them for their experiences as threads can sometimes get lost in the noise... I'd probably try building a twin 3" system, then add muffling till the competitors stop complaining. Regards, Saliya

Hi, Probably too much money. We recently (2 months ago) looked for an R32 GTR for a friend of mine. All were advertised $20k-$30k. We looked at 6; two were standouts. They were not the most expensive advertised ones, either. Purchased one for $22k that was 'in pretty good nick' with a few mods (n1's, exhaust, teins, 9" keiichi wheels). The one I liked best was _immaculate_, stock apart from mines pods, and the guy wanted $21k, but the extras on the other car were what my mate wanted. There is a glut of GTRs on the market at the moment. These rules would probably apply to any 2ndhand car purchase: * Set a budget, and stick to it. * See if you can find a checklist for the model you want to buy. There's one on this forum. * If there are things on the checklist you don't understand, try getting someone that does to go with you. * Do not buy the first car you have seen. * Look around. As in, visit at least 6 cars. Now you probably know what you're looking for. * If the first one's actually the best car for you, _now_ you're allowed to buy it. * Make sure you get a test drive, or if you're worried about insurance, get the seller to take you for a rap. The NSW RTA have published a car buyer's guide which I think is worth reading: carbuyers_handbook.pdf If the attachment doesn't work, a direct link is RTA Car Buyer's Handbook Perhaps there's a similar body in Canberra, if that's where you are? Regards, Saliya

nice tute I would put in the 'removing AFM' bit "be very careful not to lose the o-rings" because they're buggers to replace if they get lost... Regards, Saliya

Hi, Looks good Was this done by "Competition Engineering" in Guildford? Did they coat the inside of the exhaust manifolds? If so, are you/they worried about bits of ceramic coat going through the turbos? Regards, Saliya

SOLD! Good luck to the purchaser, prompt trader, would do so again. My new exhaust is already on the car This exhaust is off my current R32 GTR which I am changing to a larger single setup, but I don't want to cut this exhaust up. Dual expansion to 3" off the dumps (fits standard dumps), into 3" catco hi-flow cats (RRP $750), into 4", through custom 4" resonator and custom 4" muffler. Everything on it is stainless, and you could polish it if you cared. The mufflers were welded on in-situ (that is, there are tiny holes at the tops of the joins between the muffler and the pipe) all 4 of which can be cleaned up. edit: these have been sealed. There are 3 holes in the side just after the join; two have bungs for lambda sensors and one which used to be for the cat temp sensor which I had to cut off and can be repaired. All of them could just be ground back and welded if you liked. It's 'moulded' in a couple of places to clear stuff under the car, aft of the join. In its current configuration it's 95dB @ 3500. Without both mufflers it's 105dB @ 3500. You don't get the mounting bolts or rubbers - I need those for the next exhaust. It's one piece, so pick-up only (Mittagong, NSW 2575) or you organise your own freight. edit: if you have an R32 with stock dumps or aftermarket bits that fit the same, and you have stock fittings, you can drive down (about 30 mins south of Campbelltown), get it fitted for an extra $50, and drive home. You might be able to fit your stocker in your boot, in your mate's van, or in the bin. +61 2 48722094 b.h. only. Not including email address because of spam; phone spam is a little more expensive for the bastards. Hope this doesn't offend the mods. PM me if you like. edit: photos not taken of repaired hole in side and tiny up-top repairs.

Hey folks, I am the proud owner of a new T04Z, got it out of its box to have a look and there seems to be a _lot_ of shaft play just with the old finger-wiggle. Not having had a large BB turbo in my face before, I am happy to demonstrate my ignorance and ask: how much should it have? If this were a bush-bearing turbo I'd be sending it in for a rebuild - but BB turbos apparently have more shaft play (edit: with no oil in them). The question is: how much more? It seems to have around 1mm or so at the end of the shaft. Is that excessive? edit: answer is 'no, that's not excessive' Regards, Saliya

Nobody? Update: Got a HKS RB26 cast manifold 2ndhand, it's cracked and re-welding a cast cracked manifold is a _bitch_ of a job. Sending it back on Monday, so still looking. Votes for Trust stainless manifold to suit T78/T88 (apparently it's a T04 flange) from people on the forum. SW