saliya

... weren't you frightened of swarf melting its way through the gladwrap ? And did you take any pics (I am currently investigating 'how hard' this is to either do myself or get someone else to do...) Regards, Saliya

In NSW, there are a number of modifications that are 'owner-approvable'. These things include exhaust (within noise limits), wheels (within size limits), suspension (within height limits, afaik you can't change the geometry and you can't cut/weld stuff). There are probably a few more, the place to check is the RTA or your state's equivalent. These things are also changing (something about a 'signature note' on exhausts). Any other modification (in NSW) needs to be engineered. So in NSW you need to have turbo changes engineered. I understand that Vic is _more_ restrictive about mods; so the best thing to do is check with your RTA equivalent. Justcars have some interesting wording; they let you 'nominate' any type of mods (like, for example, ECU) _but_ they say that it must be a 'legal modification'. Now to my knowledge using turbos that are different-to-stock requires engineering to be legal, so without the papers they could very well turn around in the event of a crash and say 'no, you're not covered because it's not a legal modification'. That being said; I had occasion to claim on my original GTR after I put it in a ditch. It had pods, ECU, boost controller, exhaust - three things requiring engineering in NSW but that I had no certificates for. They paid up with no fuss at all, and in a timely fashion. The best thing to do is to ring them _before_ you make the mods, tell them what you plan on doing, and ask whether you will be covered or not - preferably in writing and get the answer in writing Regards, Saliya

Hi Mik, my manual says Nissanmatic fluid D; you can get it from North Shore Mitsubishi (Nissan spares). Can't remember cost but I don't think it was cheap. I don't know how much goes in the whole system but 500mL should cover you for losses and top-up for most scenarios... Regards, Saliya

Hi folks, MrZac, thanks all for the PMs and MrZac for this link. Most sellers 'will not ship internationally'... is this where slidewize would come in ? It looks like I've found myself several units in .au that could be delivered to me for $150, so I'll try for those first... Regards, Saliya

I've had it with my sometimes-working sometimes-not AFM; am currently pulling together bits and pieces for a T04Z or 2530-based build (I have 2 x z32 AFMs). That's not happening till Jan/Feb; so in the interim I'm looking for a standard, working R32 GTR AFM that I can drop in place of my not-quite-working one. Happy to buy new or used, looking to pay no more than $150 shipped to me. Am I being unreasonable ? Please help ! Thanks, Saliya

I think you mean 'boost is a measure of restriction' (the way I say it is 'boost is a function of the engine's inability to deal with airflow). And I agree, it's airflow (not a given pressure) that results in the ability to burn fuel and make torque. But on the same motor, the restrictions should be the same (with the exception of the turbo itself). He's not talking about changing other properties of the system to permit more airflow at the same boost level... Regards, Saliya

The easiest answer is 'RPM'. Power = Torque x RPM / (some factor > 1) Assume that both turbos can make their boost target at some point in the engine's RPM range, and that the smaller one cannot hold 14psi to redline. Assume they both make the same torque for the same airflow - the one that can hold that same airflow (torque) to a higher RPM will make more power according to the formula. So if the smaller turbo can't hold it's 14psi as high in the rev range as the larger one, that's less power. The next easiest answer is 'efficiency'. Assume that the smaller turbo _can_ hold the 14psi to redline, but that it's well out of its efficiency island. That is, that the air comes out of it much hotter than out of the large one. All other things being equal, the hotter air has less oxygen to burn - meaning less torque at the _same_ 14psi and the _same_ RPM. According to the formula, that's less power. _edit_ As pointed out by PaulR33, the turbo itself is a restriction (like a muffler). A larger turbo should offer a lower restriction at the same RPM, thus allowing more airflow for a given input pressure. More airflow == more torque at the same RPM, so that's more power. I'm sure that others can express this better than me or correct deficiencies Regards, Saliya

FWIW, When I bought my first R32, it had 18x10 BBS wheels one of which had been slid along a gutter (big gouge about 6mm deep). Morton and May at Liverpool fixed it for $150; I couldn't tell where they'd actually done the work from the outside (I made marks on the rim with a texta before I sent it to them). They have a good rep from the research I did before sending my wheel to them (about 2 years ago now). HTH, Saliya

Hi folks, apparently there are PM'ed group updates going out to GB purchasers on the status of their goods; but I haven't received one. Can anyone who received an update yesterday please PM me the contents of it; also, Gary, when you send out a GB update if you cannot post the content here could you please post that the update has been sent... Regards, Saliya

Interesting that for what seems to be a fairly thorough test (to the extent of getting some folks with a van from Caltex to analyse the fuels) they didn't: a) adjust mixtures so that they were exactly the same for all fuels. Given that Optimax claims to be a denser fuel, I'd have thought this was important. B) adjust timing to take maximum advantage of all fuels (timing _was_ adjusted, but not for individual fuels). If we accept that the results are a) accurate and B) relevant given the sampling procedure (and there have been some arguments to the contrary earlier in the thread) then the test shows that Vortex98 is the best bet for 'good power' on an untuned Ecutek in a Subaru. I don't know that it follows that Vortex98 is necessarily 'the fuel' to use on a tuned car. My belief is that 'the fuel' to use on a tuned car is the fuel it was tuned on, batch variations aside. I'd love to see a comparison where the same car was adjusted for the same mixtures across a range of fuels, and the adjustments needed shown. Then I'd like to see the mixture-corrected car adjusted for timing (with the adjustments tabulated) and see power measured. Then I'd like to see the tests repeated, monthly, for 12 months. I'm dreaming Regards, Saliya

Ah, I see. I don't really want to be altering the caliper in that fashion, but useful to know. Still trying to find out what my 'blank' or lack-of-8 means, but I found this pic (anybody read Japanese ?) It _looks_ like the 'B' in 'KBNR32R_B_FS AA' means '17 inch wheels' ... SW

"It depends" is right. A mate of mine from Pirtek and I put a cooler and remote-filter on my GTR one night, it took about 4 hours. That's not including the prep work (relocating the battery to the boot, making the bracket for the cooler itself). The work we actually did on the night was: mounting the cooler enlarging the hole for hosework between engine bay and front RHS guard mounting the remote filter mount mounting the thermostat cutting/crimping 4 hoses ... If you use clamps, and rubber hose, it will be faster (but leakier ). You also won't have to be as careful of braided lines rubbing a hole in something. I think my hoses have been in place for about 15 months without a leak. Regards, Saliya

Hey, I couldn't get the std 16" rims over mine; but that was without making any changes to the brakes. I got some 16" slicks given to me, which is why I was trying... might be worthwhile dragging out a set of rims and trying again if it's just a matter of adjusting the caliper... but it didn't look like a 2-3mm change (the rim locked up on the caliper about halfway on). My model number has no '8' or '7' in it at all; it's KBNR32RBFS AA... any thoughts ? Duncan kindly looked it up on 'FAST' for me, but it didn't say 'v.spec' or 'v.spec 2'. Is this an RTFM question ? Thanks, Saliya

Nope, they certainly don't. My car has the 17" 'we produced with spartan air' BBS rims and the Brembos front/rear. I've done a little searching around and it appears as though "the almighty Internet" says that _both_ R32 v.specs had 17/Brembos, and no AYC. So you _might_ be logging your cars as v.2s for nothing Then again, the Internet doesn't know everything (apparently, my car can do a 12.58 quarter _stock_). Mine was originally advertised as a v.spec 2; but my understanding is that with a build date of 93 it can't be that. Just out of interest, where are you getting your info from (that only the v.spec 2's had 17/Brembos)? Is there some Nissan piece of software that logs OE wheel diameter against VIN (like FAST)? Should I be able to write to Nissan to get that info ? I'd definitely like an authoritative answer. Regards, Saliya

The site that photo's off (http://www.gtr.co.uk/html/technical/r32.asp) thinks that there were lots of different diff covers on R32s and also that the only difference between the two v-specs was tyre size. There's no mention made of AYC. When I went looking for my 32, I was told by the folks at Mooroka Autoshop that the 32 v-spec's don't have AYC. But, as I said, I've never seen a v-spec II in the flesh. I _knew_ someone would ask for that I don't have a hoist handy, so here's what you get. FWIW it doesn't seem to have the huge finning that some other R32s have, but I honestly can't see any hydraulics going into it. Next time it goes up I might take more... Regards, Saliya

Hey, Begging your pardon, but the R32 V-spec has Brembos. At least, my V-spec (1993) does So: R32 GTR - Sumitomo calipers, smaller discs R32 GTR Vspec(93) and Vspec II(94) - Brembo calipers, larger discs As far as I know, the only differences between V-spec and V-spec II are that the V-spec II had different profile tyres and is newer. I have heard mumblings about an active yaw controller (like on the 33 V-spec) but haven't seen an R32 V-spec II diff to check (and I think it's just confusion between 32 and 33 V-specs). Mine has no AYC that I can see. I've never seen a V-spec II in the flesh. There was an article in a recent HPI or Zoom, but they didn't photograph the rear diff (they did mention AYC, but I'll believe it when I see it). I'd love for my car to be a V-spec II, but I don't think that it is... Regards, Saliya

Anybody can tell lies. The idea is that if someone _does_ tell lies, there _are_ legal remedies. Neither 'us' nor moderators can determine what is true and what is not (for a given value of 'true'). The issue here is one of where you could be telling the truth, but still found guilty of defamation. That could stop people letting other members know of dodgy workshops or work, for fear of legal action _even though_ it's true. The moderators have a defence (they're an ICH, and not responsible for what people post if they don't know about it). As readers, we aren't posting anything, so there's no possibility of defamation on our part. As writers, if 'we' post something that's not true, then we deserve to be jumped on. As writers, if something's in the public interest/benefit AND it's true AND you're in NSW/QLD/Tas/ACT then you're pretty safe from being found guilty of defamation. Vic/SA/WA is another matter, though Vic is looking like moving directly to truth-is-a-defence. Regards, Saliya

Hey, Sorry, I don't think I've made myself clear Yes, when you have a miss, your airflow will go down (I don't know exactly by how much, because my car doesn't do that). But I _did_ have a faulty AFM, the behaviour on-car was much like a very intermittent miss. If the AFM is giving faulty readings for enough of the time to alert the PFC, the PFC will light the exhaust temp light (disconnect an AFM and start the car, you'll see what I mean). But my one would only read badly occasionally, looked like a dodgy contact inside the AFM itself - not long enough to light the light but long enough to have the engine hesitate. If it's a faulty AFM, that particular AFM might have a reading that's out of whack (with the other one). Say one AFM is reading 2.5V, but the other one is reading 1.1V, check the lower voltage one. Or if at any time either AFM reading is below 1V, that is abnormal. In my case, when I had the fault the person monitoring the controller could see that the voltage of that particular AFM went down to nearly 0V. But it would only do it for a fraction of a second - hence, why you will need to be lucky Regards, Saliya

Hey, if you have PFC and a dodgy AFM, you _might_ be lucky enough to see it on the section that shows the sensor outputs. Have someone monitor the hand controller, and see whether there is an AFM voltage out of whack (they should be fairly similar, and I think always above 1V) when you have the miss. Regards, Saliya

Sort of. In addition to being the truth, in QLD, Tas, ACT 'public benefit' is a requirement. In NSW 'public interest'. However, I'd suggest that anything posted on a forum for other forum member benefit satisfies those criteria, thus, as long as you tell the truth (in those states) AND you're doing it for other member benefit (i.e. your intention is not to simply have a whinge on a public forum) you should be pretty safe from successful defamation action. Which leaves WA, NT, and Vic. From http://www.asiamedia.ucla.edu/article.asp?parentid=29569 if correct, we can assume that Vic doesn't regard truth alone as a defence as of 8th Sep, 2005 (but that it will). Vic's not mentioned in the EFA document directly, and WA and NT I haven't read more specific information about. So if you're from those states, at this time, and you want to post contentious material, I would get legal advice first There are specific provisions in the Broadcasting Services Act that relate to Internet Service Providers and Internet Content Hosts. In general, they are not liable if they did not know about the content. So the "owner" of the forum, the ICH, _should_ be fairly safe from unforeseen litigation (at a minimum, the allegedly defamed party would have to notify Christian if they wanted to join him as a defendant). Posters, the _best_ thing to do is CYA. State the facts only, and allow the readers to draw their own conclusions. If you are even slightly worried about litigation, send a copy of what you intend to publish to the party concerned, and ask them whether they have a problem with it. If they do, ask them to justify their concerns, and see if you can address them. http://www.efa.org.au/Issues/Censor/defamation.html is a pretty good resource; in fact most things at efa.org.au are worth having a read of. Regards, Saliya

Hey, If the exhaust is making heaps of backpressure, the gate will open earlier than you'd like. Remove the exhaust in sections (start at the back of the car, work forward to the turbo or as close as you can get) testing each time. It _could_ be a simple blockage. Eliminate the exhaust as a possibility before trying the following: * Try leaving the top wg hose connected, and disconnecting the bottom hose. This will maximise pressure keeping the gate closed. If boost is always higher than backpressure, in theory the gate can't open, ever. * Or you could try welding the screamer pipe shut with a disc - this is the same thing as removing the wastegate completely. It might still crack open, but the gas can't go anywhere. While doing either of these tests, remember that your wastegate isn't working - you need to control boost with your right foot and be _very_ careful... overboost isn't fun for your motor Regards, Saliya

Hi, You connect the Apexi solenoid to where the standard boost solenoid is plugged in (i.e. it replaces the std. solenoid). I had to replumb the wastegate signal as per the diagram that was included with my kit (in Japanese ) which means that rather than the solenoid operating as a 'controlled leak' it now operates as a 'controlled opening'. I don't know if all PFC boost control kits are the same, I've only seen the one. Regards, Saliya

Hi, If the car is truly 'running normal' apart from no boost, it's not likely to be a boost leak (i.e. you've most likely broken something). But my R32 only starts making boost at around 3500 RPM; so look for a leak in the pressurised part of the intake system (follow pipes off turbos, through intercooler, into plenum checking for leaks all along). The joins are the places to check first. Regards, Saliya

Hi Ryan, Short answer: "Yes". Long answer: The jig-made Jap stuff generally seems to have better looking welds than custom stuff. There are also generally fewer of them (most exhaust shops don't own a 3" mandrel bender so they will make a custom 3" exhaust out of 3" mandrel bends so there are more joins) There's a case to be made for 'less joins' and 'smaller welds' in terms of flow; but I'm guessing that the difference is minimal if measurable at all for most cars. "Droning" is a subjective thing - every exhaust will have a resonant frequency (and most of them a corresponding RPM that it sounds 'louder' at). Hopefully this frequency is not at cruise RPMs. Unless you just mean 'too loud generally' - in this case, adding more mufflers (or using more effective ones) will usually be the answer. It's a tradeoff between flow and noise - a system that flows the best is usually the noisiest. I haven't seen the muffler yet that added noise restriction without also adding flow restriction. If a system is custom you should be able to add/delete mufflers at will, and your exhaust shop should also have a pretty good idea about what a given system will sound like _before_ they make it. Tell them what you want. The best thing to do is go to a cruise or a track day for your model car, find the sound of something you like, and see what's under it. Ideally, get a ride in it if the owner's agreeable so you can hear it at different RPMs. Try find something that's street legal Regards, Saliya

Duncan, I run these on my road car, one developed a crack right through one of the spokes. Sent the wheel back to Speedy, they replaced it. Apparently, it's pretty unusual (a) for a spoke to crack without bashing the wheel into something (B) for a wheel maker to replace a broken wheel 'just like that' (it means they've accepted that there was something wrong with the wheel originally). I think this was just 'bad luck' (the wheels are still on the car). For those that aren't racing (and not checking the wheels every time), it's worth the trouble to start doing it Regards, Saliya