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saliya

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Everything posted by saliya

  1. FWIW, I had a Haltech E6K (runs on MAP + TPS + other std sensors) in my old R32 before I put in the PowerFC. This Haltech was tuned by a Haltech-recommended tuner who had done many of these before and apparently knew what he was doing (no, not naming names). I ditched it in favour of a PowerFC because I wasn't happy with the performance of the car - large increases in throttle opening always resulted in a split-second of hesitation (at which time my mixture meter showed a momentary lean-out). For a drag car, this doesn't matter; for a road car, it was sufficiently annoying for me to have to try 'something else'. No other changes except replacing E6K with PFC; but the problem is gone. _I_ think the momentary lean out can be explained by the time that it takes the MAP sensor to "see" the change and respond. Yes, you can compensate with a throttle-pump function; but it couldn't delete the hesitation. So to the original poster - a Haltech (I think the new one is the E11, if you use an E6K you need waste-spark) will certainly allow you to start/run/drag the car. Mine certainly never had trouble on power runs. Can't speak for the others you list. But if you want to drive it on the road or the circuit, you might still want to look at how to attach an AFM Regards, Saliya
  2. Me Too I'd like to offer public thanks for the time you've taken and the knowledge you've shared. I've spent literally hours on the phone and travelling around, trying to find the 'right' suspension for my GTR, and I get the feeling that most people are more interested in selling me what will make them the most money, rather than what will hopefully help me go faster I'm presuming that this setup should be OK for trackday use (my car is a road car too)? I'm trying to keep a set of RE55S on it (currently it's destroying the outsides of the fronts). I have a 93 v-spec; it already has strut braces front/rear. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with them; is there any significant advantage in replacing them with the 'kit' ones ? Regards, Saliya
  3. Not to hijack the thread, but: I've been looking for a gts-t sticker for my car for _ages_ It needs to be the R32 one, though. I also want a big red white and blue 'DATSUN' top-of-windscreen sticker (like you used to see on the old 1600 rally cars and the old bluebirds). Anybody that can supply either of these please PM me. And to add my opinions: To the original poster - whatever floats your boat. Put as many GT-R badges on it as you like. To those that are "offended" - get over it His car is there to make him happy, not you... as long as he's not trying to defraud someone (e.g. by selling a "GT-R") who's he hurting ? I'm much more offended by those stickers promoting racism or religion... Regards, Saliya
  4. Hi folks, I'm in the process of planning my R32 GTR's fuel system, and I was wondering about aftermarket fuel pressure regulators and whether they're required for my plan. My plan is for a Bosch 044 pump to replace the standard in-tank one, and for some Sard 700cc injectors to replace the stockers. I want to be able to supply enough fuel for a pair of GT-RS turbos running in their sweet spot. My understanding is that this is possible at standard fuel pressure provided the injectors are sized properly. I'd like to change as little as possible in the fuel system for reasons of cost; and I'd also like to keep the engine bay looking as stock as possible for reasons of police. Do I _need_ an aftermarket regulator ? If so, why ? Thanks guys, Saliya
  5. I had the same problem on mine; but it wasn't the plug (the AFM itself had dodgy internal connections). The plugs are internally very simple and it's highly unlikely that the plug itself is faulty, but I was hoping against hope (as I suspect you are) You can get secondhand offcut plugs from SSS Automotive in Girraween (they are _very_ nice folks, they let me search around in a box of offcuts till I found two replacement plugs and they didn't want to take any money for them . They might even have a matching AFM if it proves not to be the plug after all... Regards, Saliya
  6. SAU Nickname: saliya Car Make and Model: MY98 WRX Circuit Name: Wakefield Park Lap time: 1:09:07 (timed by spectator, no video evidence sorry). Modifications Engine: unichip, 3" turbo-back custom exhaust, K&N panel filter Power:125awkw (CAS dyno) Suspension: no modifications Tyres: Potenza RE540S Brakes: DBA slotted rotors, EBC yellow stuff pads, dot5 fluid (GTR, embarrassingly, has done 1:12:65 with 250awkw, RE55s, slotted rotors and uprated fluid)
  7. Hey, as stated, looking for a z32 AFM. Prefer new, will take used if VGC. Hoping to spend around $300 for new, $250 for used. Already have plug. Surely someone has one for sale ? Mail me directly saliya_eyo at hinet fullstop net fullstop au. Regards, Saliya
  8. Hi folks, have one Z32 AFM (thanks godfather ; now need another one plus plugs for both. Anyone selling ? Regards, Saliya
  9. I had an xtreme single plate 6 puck clutch in my old GTR (210rwkw) that never slipped, cost around $600 from Adelaide Clutch. Drive it like a light switch and it will last forever (you will wear out rear tyres faster though). SW
  10. Hi folks, Sorry if this is the wrong forum. Can't see a WTB forum anywhere As per the subject; looking to buy a replacement standard GTR AFM plug (that's right, not the AFM, just the plug that is part of the standard loom). Anybody wrecking an R32 GTR ? SW
  11. ... what he said I'll add that if you have the box out and down, you should do a bearing set in it (which significantly changes the parts bill from just 1 or 2 synchros but will save you pulling it down for bearings later). Regards, Saliya
  12. Find the 'recirculating valve' that will be attached somewhere between your compressor outlet and your throttle body (if your car already has one). The cheapest way to make this vent to atmosphere (pssh) is to: * disconnect and plug the return hose * put some type of filter over the "new" outlet on the valve. Note that with an AFM car, you're now dumping air which your meter(s) have measured... Regards, Saliya
  13. Hi, Check the level of fluid in the HICAS reservoir (engine stopped, temperature normal). Under bonnet, black canister "in between" airbox and suspension tower. Most likely it could do with a topup with nissan power steering fluid Regards, Saliya
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