saliya

pfft. There are a whole stack of GT-R owners (and a whole lot more non-owners!) that will tell you that it's somehow sacrilegious to put an R badge on anything that isn't a GT-R. Some people are coming from the position that the badge on your car somehow affects _them_ (highly comical in the non-owners ). A couple of question to those that say 'not a GT-R == no badge': Do you think that those 7-second cars are GT-Rs? Really? Just how much in common with their donor cars do you think they have? Or how about an R32 'n1' that's allowed bigger brakes? Should they be told 'no n1'? What about other people modding GT-Rs? At what point does it become 'not a GT-R, no badge'? exhaust? filter? bleed valve? EMS? TSC? intercooler? oil mods? water mods? internals? hicas-lock? suspension? single? brakes? wheels? bodykit? 'no GT-R for you!'? My opinion: A badge is just a badge. If putting a badge on your car makes you happier, do it. And find me an R32 GTS-T sticker (ready to put on a car, not already on one )... Regards, Saliya

The short answer is "go see a good exhaust shop" - preferably someone that has experience in making race exhausts. Someone like that will be good at looking what you have and estimating accurately what to do to take out 4dB whilst keeping as much performance as possible. The long answer: How big is the exhaust you have? Anything over 3.5" is hard to shut up. Does your car have a 'trumpet' on the back can? You might get 1dB by removing it. How many mufflers? Can you add another? That might get you 3dB back. Are the mufflers straight-through or otherwise? If straight-through, try a muffler with different internals but same flow area. Are the mufflers glass-packed? If so, can you repack (usually repacking means 'looser' but can mean 'tighter' depending on how the internals are)? Regards, Saliya

Well, I've tested back to back. Was not a high-powered GTR by any means (250awkw at the time). Made a difference. No dyno graphs, sorry. This of course is probably because the stock box has an inlet area of about 60cm2 compared with about 120cm2 for the pod; and a filter area of about 375cm2 vs maybe 1000cm2 for the pod. I had a stock panel, then a (better) K&N panel in the stock airbox, then a (best so far) K&N pod. The pod is in the front LHS guard so intake temps should be down if anything compared to the stock snorkel. Of course, most pod 'kits' that replace the stock airbox and leave the pods right where the box was don't have such an increase in intake or filtration areas; and sucking hotter air in is always going to be a disadvantage. Some of the foam ones going around look downright dangerous to me (the foam seems to degrade real fast, leaving holes and leaving me wondering where those bits of foam actually went). I just don't think that 'pods are no better than a factory airbox on a street car' is accurate. Maybe 'typical pod kits that replace the stock airbox won't be much better than the factory airbox'? Regards, Saliya

Hi folks, The information about the NSW noise test isn't quite correct. Yes, you need to "pass" a noise test - as described in ADR 28 - but that noise test need not cost you anything. All you need is access to a dB meter. It doesn't need to be conducted by an authorised tester. The thing that costs is the engineering Signatory's say-so that the vehicle complies with ADR 28 - this is your engineering papers - and they only _really_ need to do this particular test if you make modifications that are likely to affect ADR 28. A cold-air intake pipe probably won't need to be tested; a pod will (in NSW). Of course, usually the Signatory will want to conduct the test themselves - so the cost is built-in to your paperwork. But you can do it yourself, quite easily. All the information on how to do it is on the DOTARS website. Regards, Saliya

PMs replied. Pics added. More pics to come. SW

Kind of. "Resonant frequency" is something that means a little here. Perhaps the exhaust system is louder at cruise RPMs (who on earth would tune for that, but I digress...) than at other RPMs - hence, the term 'drone'. Yes, it's louder; but it's louder where you would not expect it to be - a harmonic of a wave is making it louder than you expect it to be... And to mad082: yes, mufflers _can_ change in size without materially altering flow - yet have very different sound outputs. Once again to do with resonance and interference of sound waves... Regards, Saliya

Work completed, stray bits going. R32 GTR converted to single turbo. Also other strays. Sorry to those that have PM'ed me, I have been off-the-air for awhile but will honour all requests before allocating to new buyers. Reasonable offers welcomed. All parts will go, they are currently stored in my garage and can stay there if I don't get what's fair. All parts are listed price + delivery. If you want to come fetch, fine. SUBARU: MY98 WRX complete original exhaust $150 NISSAN R32 GTR v.spec standard: Inlet side: airbox $150 (you can have the filter as well) airbox -> stock turbos plastic pipes $30 stock turbos -> + "twin turbo" pipe sold "twin turbo" pipe -> factory cooler pipe sold Exhaust side: manifolds + gaskets (gaskets "OK", will save you $100 or so) $150. heat shields $15 turbochargers (1 with no exhaust wheel) $150 pair dumps $20 exhaust $150 Miscellaneous (no clamps): Power steering reservoir -> pump hose $10 "Behind-head" water + air pipes -> to brackets sold stock turbos oil lines sold stock turbos water lines sold R32 GTR Flywheel - $100 Blitz 600x300x100mm cooler $800 If you think I might have something you need, PM me. If you see something in the pics that has no price, PM me. If you have an offer, PM me. The worst I'll do is say no SW [attachmen =72571:attachment][att chment=72574:attachment][attachme t=75472:attachment]

Having just been through all this: Talk to an engineering signatory. Anything that's nonstandard and isn't owner-approvable (like rims +1", exhaust, suspension without geometry changes) will be defectable. Looking at your photos, cage, pods, wing, rims, headlights, perhaps even the steering wheel. The signatory will tell you what's needed; but in general stuff can't make the emissions worse (pods!); can't decrease the safety aspects (wing! rims! lights! cage!) and be approved. You could probably cover the pods in a box and get away with it; and cage/rims/wing as long as they don't decrease safety for the occupants. Headlights I'd say you need to change. Regards, Saliya

Hey, no, don't think so. Pretty sure exhausts are an 'owner-approvable' modification according to the RTA. This means that as long as it passes the relevant ADRs (ADR28, for noise level; ADR37, for actual gas and particulates; there may be others - ask the RTA) it's OK. It doesn't need to be standard. What most likely happened is that they tested your car with a dB meter; and it was too loud (corrected reading of over 90dB, putting the car in violation of ADR28). I doubt they tested ADR37 - pretty sure the kit to do that test only exists at Penrith and Botany. To fix this, visit an exhaust shop with a meter and tell them you need it quieter than 90dB at test RPM - for you, it's probably around 3500RPM. Note I said 'corrected' - they're supposed to apply corrections for temperature and pressure (this doesn't often happen). If you get tested in the middle of a cold night your car will read louder than in the middle of a hot day. Borrow a set of stock rims. Then visit the inspection station, show them your car complies with the paperwork, and get the defects cleared. Visit them in the middle of a hot day in case they don't apply the corrections on the noise test. Then your car is street-legal again, and you can figure out whether you want to get your car engineered (budget about $500) for the rims or not. If the rims stick out beyond the bodywork I'd guess you have SFA chance of getting them approved - talk to your engineer about that (you might be able to flare the guards enough to get them allowed). Might be better to replace them with a set of smaller rims which don't require approval from a signatory. Lastly, don't drive like a tool. Driving like a tool attracts the wrong sort of attention. And if you _do_ drive like a tool, don't be surprised when the police throw the book at you. Regards, Saliya

Don't order _anything_ based on the opinion of some unknown Internet person. Unfortunately, everyone on the Internet has an opinion (and many of those are wrong). Now ignore the above advice and read on I'd do it the other way - select a tuner, have a chat with them, decide whether they are who you want to tune your car. Once you know which tuner you want to use, find out what they recommend and are comfortable with... and purchase that. Regards, Saliya

Hey, I can't remember Easy way to tell: physically disconnect an AFM, turn ign ON. Should see 0 volts on disconnected one; 0.15-0.20 on connected one. MARK THEM Regards, Saliya

bump. Price drop - cheap! Go figure why someone'd pay more for an exhaust that flows less :) Saliya

It probably won't hurt to swap them around - to make sure the discrepancy doesn't follow an AFM - mark them! I spent 'far too long' chasing a wiring problem only to find that what I was really chasing was a 'you resoldered and replaced the wrong meter' problem Sounds like a leak might be the cause - but would suck to spend $400 and not fix it... Regards, Saliya

Hey folks, as in the topic; wanting a gunmetal grey R32 GTR wing. Prefer an original. (I am going to put LEDs in it) Regards, Saliya

Hey, Don't think so - those pipes are only under atmospheric pressure (or less!) even when the car's making boost. It's possible that the lower-pressure area at the front of the turbo inlet is 'sucking' air through a tiny gap that may be caused by rubber deformation - meaning that your car will be running leaner than it should - but unless your air filter's blocked or there's a rag stuffed in a pipe I doubt it'd be much (depending on the size of the gap, of course). You need to check _everything_ that they removed/refit - personally, if they're an OK bunch I'd be taking it back and saying 'scuse me folks, but something seems to be wrong here, can you tell me just what you did and maybe take a look at it' Regards, Saliya

Hmm. I find that with my (stock internals) RB26 cruising on the freeway at 110 +- 20km/h it's _just_ on boost at cruise. As soon as there's a slight incline it's into +ve manifold pressure. I guess different strokes for different folks. As speed goes up, the amount of forward 'oomph' required to maintain that speed increases as the square of velocity - so you must have been in a _very_ aerodynamic car. Regards, Saliya

Hey, This is the RTA's guide for light vehicle modifications. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...s/vsi/vsi06.pdf As raz0r$harP said, check with a signatory. From my own reading of the RTA's site and speaking with a few of those listed signatories (that is, this is not gospel!) If you're changing engines from a model that has no turbo (e.g. GTS) to a stock turbo engine (e.g. GTS-T) that was an option on the body you have, it should be pretty easy (but still requires engineering/signatory approval). If the stock turbo model had extra safety gear (e.g. bigger brakes, different wheels/tyres, ABS, traction control, airbags) you _may_ also need to put some or all of this safety gear in your nonturbo model in order to get it passed. Your signatory should be able to tell you exactly what you need to do in order for them to approve your car. _Hopefully_ you're not a P-plater trying to get into a turbo The RTA specifically states on their P-plater FAQ http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/licensing/gettin...r/p1p2faqs.html "Any vehicle with engine performance modifications requiring an engineer’s certification for registration purposes is banned under the prohibited vehicle scheme." If any of this interpretation is incorrect, hopefully some kind soul will post a correction (and evidence ) and I'll correct this post. Regards, Saliya

If it's a split-pulse manifold like this one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=43991 then you don't want to try modifying the flange (you will find it very hard to weld the 'split' part of a new flange on). You also want to check it for cracks, like the ones displayed in that pic. Regards, Saliya

If you remove the internals from a cat: * Yes, of course it will look like a cat from the outside. * Yes, the car will be louder and probably perform better. The more restrictive the cat, the bigger the effect from removing its internals. If you put a pipe inside it: * You are probably wasting your time and effort. The difference in flow between gutted and gutted-with-pipe-inside is probably negligible. If the car is a road-registered car driven on the road in Australia: * Yes, you _will_ be liable for an eleventy-gazillion dollar fine if you get busted. If you're talking about doing this because your cat has collapsed (making the car undrivable) and you simply cannot afford a replacement cat but you must drive to work - well, you have to do what you have to do. In this situation I'd be trying a wreckers or something to keep me legal, because the fine isn't worth paying. If you're talking about doing this for _any other reason_ on an Australian road car - don't be silly. Pay the money, get as high-performance a cat as you can afford, and live with the fact that road-registered cars need cats. Regards, Saliya

If the gate is opening, but it's not restricting boost, it's not letting enough gas out. This could be from a number of common reasons: * pressure signal isn't in the right place For most external gates you need to supply the pressure signal at the middle (not top) fitting. Disconnect anything you have going to the top and try with the middle only. * pressure signal isn't getting to gate Tee a gauge into the line and check that there's pressure when the manifold is seeing pressure. * gate spring isn't what you think it is Using a hand-pump and gauge, supply pressure to the fitting. Make sure the gate opens at the right pressure. * gate isn't big enough Try removing the gate and bolting the screamer pipe on directly to where the gate goes. This is almost equivalent to having the gate open all the time. If you still can't hold boost down, the wastegate piping isn't big enough (highly unlikely, but possible). If you _can_ hold boost down, either the gate is too small or it is faulty. * gate is faulty Maybe the gate isn't opening fully? Check that it opens fully when you test it with the hand pump. * manifold gauge is wrong Check that the boost you're seeing is in fact what is there by using a known-good gauge. Regards, Saliya

Charles' law (sometimes called the Law of Charles and Gay-Lussac) is one of the gas laws. It states that at constant pressure, the volume of a given mass of a gas increases or decreases by the same factor as its temperature (in kelvins) increases or decreases. That is, you're not 'guessing' an air volume if you know it's pressure (measured by MAP sensor) and its temperature. Regards, Saliya

Cheers It's really for insurance (that is, the pay-annually kind) because my insurance company says that all mods are OK as long as they are street legal - and cert == street legal. With respect to the highway patrol thing: I think you have to pass a verbal 'd1(khead' test when you're pulled over for a pseudoRBT. The test isn't a hard one - I've passed it several times - but I'm well aware that saying 'jam it' isn't going to help me out I don't tend to drive like an idiot on the street - so I don't tend to get police attention. Funny how that works :no: That being said, the car _is_ street legal in the opinion of someone who knows more than me... and presumably, more than any police officer that is not an Engineering Signatory - and police officers know this just as well as I do (they are familiar with the concept of 'expert witness'). If an officer wanted to challenge that institution (by issuing a defect) then I am sure that they would not do that unless there were just cause. I guess we'll see... Regards, Saliya

Hey Darren, Is your solenoid inline between the pressure source and the gate, or is it operating as a bleed? Have you tried it the 'other way'? Does the PFC "learn" over time? If not, what does that last number displayed on the HC mean? Regards, Saliya

update: it's engineered, and street-legal. John Wilson from Canberra is the signatory that approved it. Saliya

Hey, I have boost, WB02 and fuel pressure gauges mounted underneath the dash cluster - they are listed on my engineer's report. I guess this means they needed to be on the report to be legal (otherwise, why would he have included them?). I made my holders from exhaust tube cut to length, expanded to size, welded together, and painted black. They certainly aren't cushioned. I _think_ that the criteria is "pose no additional threat to occupants" - but I think you need to get an Engineering Signatory to say so in NSW. This is all based on the above - the fact that they were included in my report, and that things that don't _need_ to be in the report are not there... Regards, Saliya