rahilp

Vertical orientation 6.2.6.1.1. The initial downward inclination of the cut off of the dipped-beam to be set in the unladen vehicle state with one person in the driver's seat shall be specified within an accuracy of 0.1 per cent by the manufacturer and indicated in a clearly legible and indelible manner on each vehicle close to either headlamp or the manufacturer's plate by the symbol shown in Annex 7. The value of this indicated downward inclination shall be defined in accordance with paragraph 6.2.6.1.2. 6.2.6.1.2. Depending on the mounting height in metres (h) of the lower edge of the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis of the dipped beam headlamp, measured on the unladen vehicles, the vertical inclination of the cut off of the dipped- beam shall, under all the static conditions of Annex 5, remain between the following limits and the initial aiming shall have the following values: h < 0.8 Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent 0.8 < h < 1.0 Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent Or, at the discretion of the manufacturer, Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent The application for the vehicle type approval shall, in this case, contain information as to which of the two alternatives is to be used. h > 1.0 Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent The above limits and the initial aiming values are summarized in the diagram below. For category N3G (off-road) vehicles where the headlamps exceed a height of 1,200 mm, the limits for the vertical inclination of the cut-off shall be between: -1.5 per cent and -3.5 per cent. The initial aim shall be set between: -2 per cent and -2.5 per cent.

Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case. For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument. For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint. But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.

Hi there I'm getting married on Sept 15 2023, and I'm looking for a car to drive me to the venue which is from Shailer Park to Rocklea (approx 25km). I was looking at having a Datsun 240k firstly but seem to be struggling to find anyone. I love my Skyline as that's why I was looking for the 240k, however I'm open to any classic Japanese car such as 240/260z, celica, 808 etc. I'm also open to some more modern Jap cars but it has to be something bit more special. So if you have anything please comment, message and hopefully we can work something out. Thank you

So I have a greddy manifold, it's underneath, I gave it a decent clean a year ago

Hi there So I've seem to have this problem with my R34 GTT. Firstly the issue The car seems to idle fine. However when it's cold and I accelerate (floor it) the car drops its revs drastically then shoots up. If I accelerate slowly (even tapping the pedal) the car will stall. When the car is warm it stalls alot easier. Suspected the alternator but tested 14.6volts Cleaned the MAF The car is a R34 GT-T manual with stock ecu with a forward facing plenum. If you have any ideas please throw them at me Video below does show the temp being high, at the time my thermo fans weren't plugged in received_1892722887557038.mp4

Sold now

Hi guys I have a pair of R33 GTR rear seat I want to sell, looking at selling them for $950 located in Brisbane and happy to ship. As you can see in the photos, there's no stains, rips, tears or cigarette burns. But does have some sun fade on the top which is common. I'm happy to swap for any parts (mechanical, interior), but it will need to fits my R34. I'm currently in the market for wheels and if you have anything let me know and it will be cash your way + the seat. Pretty much if you have anything you don't want, feel free to PM me and we can go from there.

Thought I'd have a looking at the timing belt. And it is out by two teeth would that be enough to cause this?

Might invest in one or see if there any reputable mechanic available this week. And its 2 short flashes pause followed by 1 quick flash

I guess I can put my multimeter on the ecu loom and see if there's any output voltage when the car running. But I had continuity on all the trigger wire from the coilpacks plug to the ecu

Sadly earth strap didn't fix it

Spark plugs were replaced, but ill look at that as the battery was relocated to the boot and it was earthed near the boot The car had a period where it was down for about 3 months and had a few things done

Hi there I've currently have Error 21 (ignition signal circuit). I've also have a misfire happening only at low RPM. It will stall out if you accelerate approx 50%, if you go 75% it will drop the revs and almost stall then shoot up, but accelerate slowly it will go just as normal (these are all from stand still and rolling slowly) Firstly the car is R34 GT-T manual running stock ecu Injectors Turbo Throttle body with TCS still Aftermarket Greddy intake Front Mount intercooler Splitfire Coilpacks I've installed the splitfire coilpacks last week (brand new) along with spark plugs gapped at 0.8. I checked the coilpack loom for constant ground + 12v with the ign on and tested trigger signal for continuity from the ecu to the coilpack loom (so those have all passed) I've heard people say replace the loom but idk if thats going to resolve it for me Injectors were cleaned and flow tested about a month ago I've heard CAS could be a problem, I assumed mine was fine and wasn't going to be and issue. But I bought another one and it was still the same issue. Then borrowed someone's with a working one and still same issue Hope someone has some knowledge

As the title say looking for altia r34 side skirt (coupe) but may be open to other I'm from brisbane but happy for shipping Thanks

1. That 1st picture i posted found yeah its not a nipple my mistake but the recent 2 pictures ive attached shows that the boost sensor hose going to the fitting its not a line running underneath its 100% has had a fitting tapped into the pipe. The 1st picture of the 2 recent ones show what i said it is. The fitting is in the dead bang centre of the pipe 2. Im sorry im probably missing the plot but how does changing the jpipe to another factory oem one and putting and oem bov and using the original factory lines affect those things, like the jpipe looks identical except for that fitting thats been tapped in From my understanding isnt the TCS the part circled in red which im not touching anyways, and that is staying on the throttle body and the blue circle is the j pipe the part i am replacing

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit Sorry you also talk about traction control etc, how is that affected with only that j pipe, im literally only changing that pipe, all those parts arent connected to them are they

Sorry i dont have the pipes on me currently as I'm at work but I've attached pictures I have found from each j pipe

Hi there so my R34 currently has an atmos blow off valve, the last owner had sorta cut the flange off and welded a ring for his new one making it an effort to fix up and the plumb back hose was taken out completely and blocked. I'm wanting to take it back to a factory plumb back style. I had bought a R33 one thinking they were the same as an R34 as it was labeled as RB25 at the wreckers, but after getting home and putting them side to side I notice the neo one has a little pipe nipple for the boost sensor near the end and the R33 J pipe doesnt have any at all So I bought a j pipe, BOV and the r33 plumb back hose And looking at nissan parts drawing I see that a neo doesnt have a nipple on the plumb back hose (looks like it to me) where as the r33 does I was wondering if there was a way to fix this issue. My idea is bit weird as I was thinking of taking the line from the boost sensor to the r33 plumb back hose fitting with the nipple that's doing nothing atm. But was wondering if that will affect the reading as it so close to the start of air intake where as usually you would have it right at the end. I know getting an r34 one would be ideal but there isnt any in my area atm been looking for weeks, the bov that I'm running currently does seem to make car run pretty lean as the engine is mainly stock and dont see anything else causing an issue with fuel consumption. Will be adding picture soon hopefully tonight or early morning

Hey yeah i did find that Russian post, but yeah seems like their impossible to find, i wont give up just yet Thanks for the help

This may help thats the number on the filter tray

These are the old filter that were in there

So these are the element things im not sure what they are

Its a 1998 GT-T

Yeah it weird theres like an element that takes up most of the space if it wasnt for that a normal one would fit