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_scott

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Posts posted by _scott

    IACV / AAC Failing RB25DE Neo, R34

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hey all,

    I've been hearing some weird buzzing from my IACV lately. Whenever i turn the ignition to ON, it starts to buzz.

    When I pulled the IACV off to see what it's doing, I noticed the valve is moving back and forth just ever so slightly. Check the video below:

    I'm not sure if the valve is trying to open itself all the way and is getting stuck or if it should only open halfway like that. Any idea if the IACV is on it's way out? My car does idle higher than it should be, so wondering if faulty IACV may causing it.

     

     

    R34 GT IACV not getting 12v

    in Car Audio & Electrical

    Posted

    Hmm okay, good think I checked.

    @GTSBoy I guess I'll test the circuit the old fashioned way with a multimeter. Ill trace from the ECU to the fuse and then from the fuse to the IACV. Do you know what fuse #14 would be on this diagram? I assume it is the 14th fuse counting from left to right, top to bottom on the kick panel fuse box.

     

     

    fuse14.PNG

    post-7461-1238892012.jpg

    R34 GT IACV not getting 12v

    in Car Audio & Electrical

    Posted

    Hey All,

    My car is idling a bit high when warmed up and seems to be stuck in "cold mode". (bad fuel economy) I noticed when my car is set to ON position, the IACV/AAC valve is getting less than 12v. Seems like there is maybe something wrong with the circuit. 

    I'd like to see what happens to the AAC valve when it's getting all 12v when the car is running. I'm a bit of a noob at electrical, how would i go about doing that?

    Is it as easy as running a wire from the +ve end of the battery to the +ve end of the valve, and then running another wire from the -ve end of the valve, back to the -ve end of the battery, and then starting the car?

     

    I don't really wanna fry anything, so thought i would double check by asking here.

     

    Thanks!

    Poor Fuel Economy on RB25DE

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Yesterday I adjusted my base idle and set my TPS. Im still getting 5* ignition timing on warm up.

    A few things I did notice yesterday tho was, when I put my key to On, my IACV starts buzzing. I cleaned it again and also captured a video of what its doing when it gets power. Is this normal for these things to buzz?

     

    I also took some logs of my car while idling, I noticed occasionally in the software that all the guages would just end up going to 0 for a few milliseconds, and then return back to normal. Does this mean a short somewhere? Or is it likely that its just a software bug. First time I've ever seen this and I've used datascan quite a bit.

     

     

    capture_002.PNG

    Poor Fuel Economy on RB25DE

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    @BK @TurboTapinWas having similar frustrations with Amayama. I tried to order a while ago, but they quoted me $1500 to ship to Canada, and there was a 3.5 month lead time -_-

    @GTSBoy @Dose Pipe Sutututu I fixed up the rubber boot, but still seeing the timing go way back to 5* on warm up. I hooked up my smoke machine again and I see it's still lightly leaking from that area. I may try some heat shielding tape to really seal off that area for now just to see if that makes any different.

    Poor Fuel Economy on RB25DE

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by _scott

    @GTSBoy  Makes sense. I'll give the carby cleaner method a try, I'm probably missing a leak somewhere. Any areas I shouldn't spray around? I assume near the spark plugs as it could ignite. I'll also take a look at the IACV and make sure it's clean. I did however clean that out fairly recently.

    @Dose Pipe Sutututu I did take a look at exhaust leaks and there doesn't seem to be one. I sprayed soapy-water up near the exhaust manifold but didnt see any sign of leakage.

     

    My valve cover gaskets are leaking, could that possibly cause a vacuum leak or nah?

     

    Poor Fuel Economy on RB25DE

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by _scott

    Hey All,

    I have a R34 25GT thats experiencing high fuel consumption. I'm getting around 6-7 km/L on highway, so about 15L / 100 km. I used to get about 600+ km out of a full tank (65L) on highway so something just seems to be off. When I use the consult cable, I noticed my ignition timing has been retarded back to 5 at idle when the car has warmed up. I think it should be 15 or so. The car doesnt have any mods, and running stock ECU. Also, no codes come up when I read the ECU

    Some of the stuff I've tried so far:

    • Change O2 Sensor
    • Clean AFM
    • Change Fuel Filter
    • Change coil packs
    • Change spark plugs
    • Check Fuel Pressure (seems fine according to workshop manual)
      • 41 PSI when fuel pump is primed but car is off
      • 38 PSI at idle
      • 46 PSI when vacuum hose pulled
    • Check VTC Solenoid - Clicks when 12v put across it, gave it a clean anyway and put it back in the car, but no change.
    • Check coolant temp sensor - seems to be working via Consult, and temperature guage on dash will rise up to just below middle

    A few questions:

    • Can leaking fuel injectors / bad spray pattern affect timing?
    • I'm wondering if I may have skipped a tooth, but really not sure how possible that is.

    I've added the logs here from nissan data scan in case someone wants to help take a look.

    Really unsure what to do next, any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    20224151332.log

    Low beams not turning on - R34

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    I'm still a little confused about this.... I removed my turn signal switch from my car and I'm trying to test if it's good or not. If I understand the diagram correctly, in the Lighting SW area of the diagram, I set my switch to 1ST position and check the pins for continuity. So I put my multimeter on Pin 1 and Pin 9 and set my multimeter to resistance. I test the pins but it it seems like there is no continuity there. 

    Am I reading this diagram wrong? What do the Hi/Lo/P stuff mean?

    Not sure if it makes a difference but I don't have an AUTO mode on my switch. My switch also doesn't have all the same pins that are shown in the diagram. I've attached an image of the wiring diagram for convenience.

    Wiring Diagram

    I'm sorta a noob at electrical so anything helps.

     

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