bigboss59400
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Posts posted by bigboss59400
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On 8/14/2021 at 8:13 AM, joshuaho96 said:
pull the timing cover and look at whether all the timing marks line up.
what do you mean by that?
thanks for your reply
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So I try to set the ignition to 15,20 or 25 doesn't make any difference..
I have 2.6 bar at iddling on the fuel pressure line (taken after the fuel filter)
I have 3.0 bar when removing the vacum hose or during the next 5secs I put the ignition on
The fuel pressure is between 3.0 and 3.5 bars under WOT
The fuel pressure is droping slowly continuously a bit after I switch off the car
According to the service manual, these values are ok meaning pressure regulator and fuel pumps are ok
I don't know what to do/test...
The car is fully stock, seems to be in good health (no suspect sounds or lack of power )
Any suggestions ?
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Hello,
I'm selling my nismo r34 gtr cluster in excellent condition
Color is black without original box
Price 2900 USD
Location: France but I can ship worldwilde
Best regards
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Thanks for your reply
So for you it's not related to the fuel pump and fuel regulator
What temps should I see on the highway idling at 3k in 6th gear ?
So maybe the CAS is wrongly set, I will remove some advance to see
thanks
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Hello,
During highway around 3000rpm I'm at around 840 in sixth gear.
During a WOT second gear to 4th gear I'm at 960 and I stopped at this point... (MFD starts to warn me)
Engine iddling I'm at about 550
I didn't pay attention in the past to this as I was solving others issues...
The car is fully stock, everything seems to work good
It looks like the engine is running too much lean ? Should I make some log data for the AFR ?
I suspected the fuel regulator and the fuel pump to be 22 years old....Is it probably the issue ?
THanks for your inputs
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the only reliable solution will be to spy the bus while using the nissan consult ...
good luck to put your hands on a Nissan consult
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Lol no
Let me explain, my several anti-thefts are bouncing in my trunk....
So a cargo net would block them somehow
That's why I was wondering if someone already adapt something
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Anyone fitted a cargo net for a r34 gtr ?
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Hello,
I'm looking into a rear final drive pinion and crown for a r34 gtr 38100-00A60 or a complete diff
Ratio is 3.545 (39:11)
Best regards
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22 hours ago, BK said:
I notice the Hi Octane dry sump kit gives you a front or rear reservoir tank option. I'm assuming front means engine bay anyway. Not bad at around $9000 all up.
There is an option also to keep the air con.
If so where are they putting the external pump ?
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thanks for your reply guys !
Any picture available ?
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Is there anyone who install a dry sump pump reservoir in the engine bay ?
Removing the windscreen tank should be the way to go I guess ? custom tank I suppose ?
Thanks for your answers
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Thanks a lot for your answers, I appreciate!
Sorry I made a mistake for the quaife
Well what scare me is one brand (I don't recall which one) advice to dissasemble the gearbox every 5000kms to check....and based on some reading here I can see that such gearbox need quite short servicing...
I'm looking into the DCT which looks amazing !!
Only downside is the final gear is "only" 1.00 for the GS7D36SG
And also product is quite new so I hope we get some result/review soon !
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Just wondering if there is any synchromesh sequential gearbox for the r3x gtr ?
I believe only quaife is the only one to produce one ?
THe reason I would prefer this type of gearbox is for servicing...because dog type should be inspect quite often..
If I'm not wrong albin, samsonas, hollinger, ppe are dog type
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Hello,
I'm planning my future upgraded...for a power goal of 800AWD with 1000nm torque
What is the best setup to upgraded a r34 transfer case ?
I understand that the order of the plate should be changed to steel/plate/steel and so on to have the best grip out of it.
Are there any more robust plate than the original one ?
Or maybe a strong clutch replacing the original disks pack ?
Should I start with a r32/r33 gtr transfer case which as a bigger chain ?
Is there any upgraded aftermarket transfer case existing ?
Best regards
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So to conclude,
My assumption was false, based on the curves I provided we can see that the wheels has locked but the ABS release some pressure to unlock them...
Replacing the winter tyres by some regular tyres give a much better feeling too (but I don't think it was necessary)
So at the end, a bleed of the system + some cleaning on the calipers (with a lot of WD40) seems to have done the trick....yes it was such simple
French test has been passed with success this time
I can finally drive legally in a few weeks hopefully
THanks for having a look into my problem.
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I'm suspecting some solenoids being blocked as my wheels are still locking (my feeling is it seems to be the front only ) so I will dissasemble the pump
I have made a test this morning (7am at 1 degre; the road was dry but we some humidity on it; sorry I don't get the english word for it )
you can clearly see from the picture that my abs control seems to react correctly !
if the solenoids valve are in good cobdition, I will put everything back to stock :
- no winter tyres
- OEM pads
- new flexible hoses (avionic )
- new brake master
thanks -
I finally got a (german) consult
I was able to do the active test with success (meaning the abs pump should be ok)
the wheel data seems to be ok too, they are between +/-1kmh between each other and they are matching the real speed.
I was not able to do the self diagnostic with the consult; I might do something wrong in the process I guess (see picture) -
so I have bleed the entire system and the wheels are still locking
I have dixcel m or z type brake pads (I dont know if that could be an issue somehow )
I have order a consult 1 we will see
if I am still getting into trouble I will change the master brake cylinder, abs pump and abs control unit ...
best regards -
I have order it
G means german
E means english
so hopefully EG will be in english and german
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thanks
I already contact the seller to see if it include EE980
otherwise I'm looking into an EE980 card
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Yes... because this cable and the card associated work only for R34 GTR that's why it make it so special !
some dealer even ask what is a nissan skyline r34 gtr haha
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In France, no chance to find one with such device...
(I mean consult I)
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*Consult I sorry
stock R34 GTR high EGT ?
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Thanks for all your input guys
It looks like the exhaust cam timing is wrong ...(1 teeth off )
However when putting the engine at its top dead center
the admission cam is 0.5 teeth off and so the exhaust cam is 1.5 teeth off
Does it means that the timing belt pressure is wrong which explains the 0.5 teeth difference?
Thanks for your time