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bigboss59400

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Posts posted by bigboss59400

    r34 gtr abs not working

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Thanks for your answer however now I'm out of idea...

     

    I have performed the following tests :

    - continuity test between the wiring of the abs pump and the abs ECU

    - ring abs sensor are in good condition and have the correct number of teeth (46)

    - all fuses are ok

    - tyres are globally in same condition; is within +/- 10mm

     

    - I have electrically disconnected the abs pump to test it :

    * relay are ok (80 ohms and I can "hear" them when I powered them)

    * solenoid valves seems ok (4 ohms or 8 ohms and consummes 1.5A or 3A; it will depends if it's an inlet or outlet)

    * the abs motor is working

     

    My questions :

    - I have a front limited diff slip, is it possible that's making some trouble with the ABS ?

    - should I open the abs pump to check the valves ?

    - should I go for new tyres ?

    - where can I found the software to use with nissan consult to connect to the abs ECU (so that I could log some infos)

     

    Any other idea maybe ?

     

    Thanks for your time

    r34 gtr abs not working

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Hello, 

    I have a full stock r34 gtr however the brakes locked.

    Brakes are fine (pedal feels good), I had to go over 90km h under rain to make it locked.

    no brake leakage and brake fluid level is ok.

    I'm using used (good conditions) winter tyres.

    abs goes on and off after ignition is switch on.

    I had a fault code 72 that I clear and it didnt get back.This fault code was relating to TPS (MFD show correctly the TP) I also checked the TPS signal on the abs connector and voltage is within spec (0.5 - 4v)

    I checked the wheel sensors from the connector of the abs module I got values (using a cheap chinese ohmeter) between -0.5k and +8k (depends at which speed I turn the wheel ) with average/rest at 1.2k 

    during the wheel sensors signal measurements; I moved/shake the wheel sensors wires/connectors to make sure there is no short or open in the loom/connector/sensor.

    I'm out of idea ? can it be a relay ? fuses ?

    best regards

    Xtrem double ceramic disk clutch misalignment

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted · Edited by bigboss59400

    Thanks for your reply, 

    well there aren't aligned due to fabrication mistake I guess because that's basically the same disks 

    yes I know the pads aren't directly in contact.

    as you can see in the drawing the effort is not fully transmit (reduced to area between the red arrow) and I expect the metal plate to bend between the blue arrows 

    or am I wrong somewhere ?

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    Xtrem double ceramic disk clutch misalignment

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    thanks for your reply

    Hmmm the manual is referring to the aligment pads ...

    they said it's not critical but isn't it optimal I guess ? because the efforts will not be on the full friction pads but on only 80% of them...

    I was going to use this clutch on my next upgrade (1000bhp with sequential gearbox ) I'm afraid that I will not get the same performance/durability if I was using aligned disks 

    what do you think ?

    PS : I dont have any experience in such area so sorry for doubting ...

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    R180 front diff preload on side bearings ?

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Hello,

    Typo mistake on the tittle; it should be F160

    Can someone with some experience could answer me please ? :)


    Following the R32/R33 service manual and having all the correct tools, I got so far :

    • 0.7Nm of pinion preload (intead of 0.8Nm)
    • gear tooth pattern is ok
    • backlash between 0.11mm and 0.15mm
    • total preload of 0.9Nm instead of 1.8Nm and that's my concern...I can't get the carrier side bearing preload to the specifications

    I can rotate the ring hardly by hand.

    I also noticed that even if I don't put the LSD inside the case, and screw the part circle in green, the case is deforming of about +0.04mm ! (red arrow)
    if I put the LSD inside and a shim (purple circle) of 0.80 (which makes in my case 0.45mm of axial constraints), the case is deforming of about +0.15mm!!
    If I constraint more then I get of course a bigger preload for the carrier bearing preload but then I can't get the backlash into specifications as well as the gear pattern and I can't rotate anymore by hand and I feel some hard points...
    Is it normal to obeserve such deformations ? or is my carrier case damaged and/or the part in green ?

    Everything is new, except the carrier case, the part in green and the pinion and ring (they should be like new...)

    Are you able to move the ring by hand on your front diff ?

    Should I stick with my low preload of the carrier bearing of 0.2Nm instead of the 1Nm asked ?

    Thanks for your time

    20201110_132914.jpg

    R34 gtr front diff pinion into R33/R32 gtr sump ?

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hello,

    Is there anyone who put a R34 gtr front diff pinion into a R33/R32 sump ?

    The invert is possible.

    The reference of a R34 gtr sump is different of the R32/R33

    I'm asking because it seems that the previous owner put a R32/R33 gtr entire sump on my R34 gtr ......

     

    So I guess I must do some dremel job ? If I correctly measure I must removed 2mm where the pinion is hitting the case (see white paint on the picture).

    The width of the sump is 8mm so that should be fine I suppose.


    best regards

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    BNR34 aftermarket knock sensor ?

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hello,

    I was wondering if someone find an alternative reference with the same connector.

    The original parts are made by NTK reference KNE01A however I'm not able to find it anywhere...

    KN is the standard range of NTK to detect knocks between 5Khz and 15Khz.

    The reasons I'm looking for this are to save money and get parts quicker

    BR

    stock RB26 oil pump choice today

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by bigboss59400

    Hello,

    I know they are a lot of informations about rb oil pump but I still can't decided ...

    I don't want to put an external pump or oil restrictor or extended sump.

    Car will stay stock and might see some track days.

     

    Here's the option I see so far:

    - Tomei pump because it has a 25% increase flow rate only (Nitto is 40% and too much for my setup I guess), if using Tomei should I overfill a bit the sump ? I'm afraid of empty this one)

    Tomei manual say you should run it with extended sump...

    - N1/Nismo; I'm afraid of buying a bad batch of around 2010. 10 years later is the manufacturing ok with these parts ?

    - stock, N1, Nismo housing with aftermarket gears (Reimax for instance)

     

    I'm looking for the more reliable option as I don't want to destroy something or pull out the engine for a wrong choice ...so let's say budget is not a criteria

     

    Thanks for your advice

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