BourneToLive

I should be able to determine with a test light as well, right? 12v IGN wire should light up the test light. I don’t have a multimeter on hand at the moment.

The two wires that ran to OEM drier pressure switch are Aqua/White and Green/Yellow. I’m not sure about the aqua one. I’ll attach a picture of the wires.

Hello, I recently purchased an AC kit from Frenchy’s Performance Garage (FPG) that I am trying to wire up. Somebody at FPG was kind enough to send me a diagram of what it’s supposed to look like. I will attach it. Everything is pretty easy to understand, except for where I’m supposed to find the ECU pin 9 feed. I figured, from the diagram, that the wire was connected to the OEM drier pressure switch (which I removed) and that I could get a feed from there, but there are two wires and I am not entirely sure anymore. Pin 9 on the ECU is the AC Relay. This is a new kit released by FPG intended to be installed by professionals, but that’s not an option for me.

That fuse controls all that? I’ll try unplugging the clock and putting the fuse back in to see if the issue persists.

Alright. I was able to do a simple test using my test light and found that there’s a short in the interior clock harness. I removed the negative cable from the battery terminal and clamped one end of the test light to it and the other to the negative terminal and my test light lit up, just barely. I started unplugging fuses until I found the one that put out the test light and it turned out to be my interior clock. After removing the fuse that powered it (fuse 23- BAT electrical part fuse in the bottom row), my original ac unit started working again without blowing the AC fuse (fuse 20). I’m contemplating also unplugging the clock so it gets no power at all.

I appreciate the advice and what route I should take to find the issue. This will take me some time to do, so an update will come a little late. I’m debating whether I should just get an entirely new harness or not, or if the issue could be in the mode door actuator (blower motor). I’ll provide an update as soon as I have one.

The issue I’m having is that something is burning my circuit boards. The first picture is of my original climate control unit, which was blowing my fuse. And the next pictures are of the second climate control unit I bought recently, which didn’t blow any fuses.

Thanks for clarifying. My car was off when I removed all fuses and relay and used my test light. Should the AC have constant power even when the car is off? I’m not familiar with electronics. I attached a pic of the climate control unit diagram. I suspect the green cable I tested was pin 10.

Hey, I am in the process of diagnosing my air conditioning issue my car. I’ve made another post before about trying to find out why a specific AC fuse was blowing, that was unrelated to the compressor, and saw that I had a scorch mark on the circuit board inside the climate control unit. I bought a new one from an auction and it worked! But the next day, while I was driving and the AC was off, a hole had burnt through the board. Of course, I suspected something along the lines of a short to signal wire or to ground because when I removed all fuses and relays and started poking around the connectors with test light, one wire lit up (video below). Whatever it was, it was sending power down the wrong path or too much power. Anyway, to the point of this post, I brought it to a local mechanic to inspect the wires and he said other than 13v reading in a 12v system, nothing seemed out of the ordinary. He said the problem could be because of the type climate control control unit I bought from the auction and if it was from an early model R32 or a late model R32. He claims that it has to be close to the original as possible. I have a late model R32 GTR from 08/1994. Am I able to use any climate control unit from any other 89-94 R32 GTR or is it specific to the exact year? I will attach pictures of my climate control part number and the one from the auction. The top two rows are only one digit off. My original one is on the top. I read a post of someone using an R33 climate control unit in an R32 and it worked. FullSizeRender.MOV

Hello, For the last couple of months, I noticed a rubbing/scraping sound when my pedal reaches the biting point. I’m assuming that’s a throwout/release bearing issue and I want to buy a replacement, but I’m not sure if they are vehicle specific or clutch specific. I have the OS Giken TS2BD clutch. I’m trying to narrow down the search for this fix and I don’t want to end up buying the wrong part. Any help is much appreciated.

I don’t use a cat. I have a test pipe with my wideband O2 sensor on it and I disabled my OEM narrowband sensors that are on the turbo outlet pipes. Funny thing that happened recently, I did the same thing with my MAFs in Haltech’s ECU Manager, but I left them plugged it up until three days ago. When I unplugged them, I put about 4000yen worth of high octane gas (65AUD), and it seemed to have been the problem to my fuel economy issue after the new ECU install. After three days, I’ve driven about 60km on it and my fuel gauge moved only about a millimeter or two. I left my OEM sensors plugged in as well after disabling them. I wonder if that’s messing with my AFR readings.

They seem fine. But I don’t recall the radiator fan ever turning on, and my coolant temp is 78C on average.

Thanks for looking at the log. So, if you want, I can send you the map I’m using. It’s a Haltech base map that I’ve been tuning. For the rich post-start when warm, that’s the setting that doesn’t make my AFR go extremely lean. It wasn’t that rich originally, but my AFR was at 20+. Even with the current post start settings, it goes to 15.5 AFR. This is only on warm starts. For transient throttle, I’m still messing with that. I’ll give DFCO a try. A lot of the settings here I haven’t messed with because I don’t understand them. I deleted the MAFs because they were on the way out and it was cheaper to use a MAP sensor than buy new MAFs. As for the timing, I have no clue. I haven’t touched that part of the map. Lol Also, I try keeping my idle AFR at 14.2 and cruise at 14.1.

I traced the AC condenser fan’s wires to this green connector on the left side of the radiator and it had a sketchy looking red wire in it that looped. I’ll attach some pics so you can see. The original plug was right next to it, so I just plugged it back in. I have tried to see if it fixed the blowing issue because I don’t have anymore 10A fuses left lying around. Lol. found a 10A and it still blew it.

I’m blowing the #20 AC 10A fuse at the bottom row in the middle. Does anyone know what that could be?

I attached a datalog from a couple nights ago. If you have the haltech ECU manager and you can view it, let me know what you see. I'm not experienced in the tuning scene. I'm learning as I go. There are a couple of lean spots from rough take-offs at stop lights. You'll probably see that. Usual Route Data Log - Haltech Plat Pro - BNR32 GTR.csv

Sorry for the super late response. A lot of things went wrong with the car all at once and had to make changes/upgrades to it. Since then, I have upgrades to a high-flow Nismo fuel pump, NZEFI 1000cc injectors, GT2860r-5 twins, stock rail and FPR, R35 Coils and Haltech Platinum Pro ECU. The car has been my daily for the last four months, so I can’t afford to do pulls and risk something breaking. Around the time of this post, I had a Djetro Apexi ECU, and when I installed the R35 coils and 1000cc injectors, I had decently good fuel economy. But when I changed to the Haltech ECU, my fuel economy went downhill. I’ve been tuning the basemap to my application, but no matter what I tinker with, I can’t improve fuel economy. I’ve tuned the injector flow rates, injector dead times, dwell times, target AFR, base fuel map, coolant temp corrections, Idle duty cycle, transient throttle (throttle pump). My wideband reads 14.2 at idle and 13.8-14.1 cruising (2000-3000rpm). I get constant rich bank warnings while idling at 14.2 AFR. It’s probably a timing issue but I don’t understand that kind of stuff enough to be tuning it, so I’m not touching that. I understand that GTRs are not the most economical cars, but I’m pretty sure mine is way below any of your guys’ cars. That’s why I’m concerned. Everyone here seems to average 14L/100km, but I burn about, what seems like, 14L/25-50km.

I just went through with my test light again. I connected it to power to search for the ground connection in my connector. Found the ground, the metal socket shined and blew my fuse. Perhaps a short somewhere?

This is the result of using a test light. I recommend lowering the volume because my gauge beeps loud. When I touch the test light to the up and down signal wires, it shows a dim light. But When I engage the window switch, the light shuts off. When I touch the test light to the main power wire, it shines much brighter. Sorry for recording in 4k. IMG_3631.MOV

I apologize for another window issue. I have already read through, what seemed like all, the possible solutions to this problem, but my driver side window doesn’t work. I am hoping somebody already experienced this and has an answer. The passenger side works fine. I have already ruled out the amp relay because I replaced with a new one from Nissan and it still didn’t work, but the amp still clicks; I was told by Nissan, and forums, that the motor and regulator is unlikely to break and it must be something else. The problem started one day when I was rolling the window down and it got stuck. A few days later after trying to roll it up and failed, I clicked the switch down and then up and it moved, but got stuck in the same position hasn’t moved since. After replacing the amp relay, it still clicked. I also took apart the switch and retouched all the sorter joints and still no results. Passenger side still works fine. I put a test light on the connector (clipped to chassis) and the slots where it clicked (up and down) were only shining dim, instead of the usual bright light. I checked the fuse under the hood as well, and it was fine but when I reconnected it, I heard a click in my dash. I’m burnt. If anyone has had this problem, please help. It’s been a month. I’m trying everything before buying a new motor and regulator.

I just found this picture from when my tuner tuned my car. I’m not good at reading these things.

Thanks for the advice everyone. First, I have to invest in a better ECU. That’s the only way the tuner will help me. Then I’ll get it properly tuned.

I assume that can’t be adjusted without accessing the current map with an FC Hako or Datalogit, correct? Are the digits on the right (+0.06) the dead time? I calculated: 1000cc injectors -> 0.989 @ 14V 555cc injectors -> 0.6 0.989-0.6= 0.389 dead time Or at least the nearest value I can get it to. and the injectors (based on last tune): 555/906= 0.612 or 61.2% Is this correct?

I just tried 64.1% and it started and idled fine, except the RPMs seemed to fluctuate a bit more (between ~30rpms) than when it was to 74.2%, where it maintained a pretty consistent idle and stayed within ~10rpms.

I had already installed the ballast delete with the injectors. And I did research on the changes to Injector duty to compensate for the bigger injectors yesterday and gave it a shot. I set it to 52.1% at 0.06 and it stalled out any time I came to a stop, so I set it to 74.1% instead and it fixed that issue. Although, since my last tuner tuned the ECU to work with the 555cc injectors, I based my calculations on the previous injectors and came to ~64%. 48% turns the car and then shuts off immediately.