BourneToLive

The tuner I took my car to is famous in Japan, and I assume he doesn’t want to taint his reputation by cutting corners and doing a risky tune. From just installing the injectors and without making changes, the car was able to start and idled better than most eco cars that tremble like crazy. It cruises fine, but runs very rich. I can tell from the popcorn in the rear from just lightly letting off the gas pedal and the smell (no leaks). I was able to drive it for a six hour round trip without any issue, other than what seemed like misfires at fifth gear below 2500rpm. This is my daily at the moment, and I know it’s risky to drive it without a tune, but four of my six cylinders were running very lean and two of them were very rich with the old injectors. I can’t extract my current map and send it to a tuner either because I don’t have a Hako or Datalogit to do so. Unless someone has one they want to sell.

I took my car to a tuner today and he said the injectors are too big for the PowerFC to handle. Told me to get a better ECU.

I don’t have a wideband. I intend on driving it normally until I get it to the tuner in a few days. As of now, it idles fine and cruises fine. I just don’t want to risk breaking anything.

I meant 0.08ms. These are my settings.

I had the Nismo 555cc injectors. The injector data on my PFC showed 82% at 0.06ms.

Good morning, gents, I recently bought and installed the Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors from NZEFI and it included a paper with injector data for tuning, but the nearest tuner is nearly three hours away, and I just need the car to drive normally until I can make time for the trip. I will attach the picture. I have ap Power FC and was wondering if it was possible to input any data through the FC controller to improve its performance, for the time being.

I looked inside the wells and didn’t see any oil and each cylinder averages about 160psi when I did a compression test.

Hello, I just got done changing out the spark plugs and noticed that cylinders three and four are running extremely rich. My tuner suspects it to be a CAS issue or a coil pack problem, but my split fire coil packs are still pretty new. I’ll add a picture of the spark plugs. Has anyone else had an issue like this?

You’re right! I didn’t know that about the Apexi, until now. It came installed in my car and I never messed with it. I just took it to a tuner. That explains it. I set it to 1.1 bar and it still feels like it lacks in power, but it didn’t cut like before. The -5s are more high-end power, and I couldn’t safely hit 6000rpm. Anyway, these are the results. Thanks for the help, brother.

It turned out to be the first one. Took it to a specialist in my area and it was a short in the wire from the sensor to the ECU. A body shop I took my car to probably nicked the cable. A new cable fixed the false reading of 1.87kg/cm2. I wonder if the problem of not being able to boost past 6000rpm is still there.

The second picture is the car at idle. So, what would be faulty? Would a false reading affect actual boost output? I have limited knowledge on this.

Hello, Lately, I have been having a weird issue where when I reach the boost threshold (6000rpm), my car won’t rev past it. It displays my exhaust temp light, I hear somewhat of a scraping sounds and black smoke comes out that exhaust. But only when the light comes on. I checked my boost settings on my PFC and I have my boost set pretty low. Below 1 bar. But on my map, it displays +1.87kg/cm2. That’s not at all what I have my boost pressure set to. My knock readings are below 30 when that happens, my injector duty is in the realm of 70-80. I’m stumped. Could it be the boost controller? I’ll post some pics to show what I mean. My setup: GT2860r-5s Apexi Power FC Apexi Boost Controller Nismo 600cc Injectors That’s it. Everything else is stock.

As the title suggests, my catalyzer light came on today when I did a small pull, hitting around 5500 RPM, barely hitting boost. I run an Apexi PowerFC with 2860 -5s. I don’t have a catalytic converter. My car is straight piped and the sensor isn’t even plugged in to anything. I assume it could be a tune issue, as my Inj Duty hit 91% and I know it’s supposed to be at tuned to 80%, and it is. But I honestly don’t know much. I’ve seen other posts saying it could be that the MAFs are maxing out. I only run 1.3 bar of boost, or roughly 17psi. I’m stumped. Does anybody know?

My R32 GTR hovers between 76-79 degrees C. no matter the weather conditions. I had it go over 80 once in heavy traffic.

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Hello, I am located in Japan and I am selling a set of Nismo LMGT4s with wheel caps. Front: 18x8.5 +25 Rear: 18x9.5 +30 I received the wheels recently not realizing the impact staggered wheels would have my 4WD R32 GTR, and unfortunately, I’d have to resell for a loss. As you can see in the photos, the wheels have minor scratches and the paint on two of the wheels are slightly faded. The wheels are completely rust-free. Looking to sell for $1600USD.

Hey, as usual, I’ve tried looking for answers on my specific problem, but haven’t found one, yet. I’ve had my R32 for just over 7 months and it has terrible fuel economy. My tank is nearly empty after only about 170km. When I first got the car, it had misfires; and I did everything I could to fix any issue that would have affected my fuel economy, except for buying new fuel injectors. My car runs rich. I suspected a fuel leak or an exhaust leak somewhere, but my mechanic assured me my car was fine. I even got a new tune for better fuel-to-air ratio and I am still having to fill up everyone 150-175km. Also, my fuel gauge fluctuates. I’m stumped.

I know I’m nine years late, but you happen to have a spare?

Hey, I’ve searched around for these particular parts and can’t seem to find anything on them or whether they’re called mudflaps, mudguards... I was hoping I could find some help here in locating them. Mine cracked pretty badly. I circled the specific parts. (Not my car in the picture)