GoHashiriya

Not as much as when i first visited back in 2015 - I was still seeing a fair few grannies and grandpas driving the 20de models about - plus usual tuners. I'll most likely see 1 or 2 if out and about now - usually modded - but they're certainly becoming rare. Went to a meet the other day and saw a good 10-15 skylines there out of about 150 cars. Cheers pal. Absolutely loving it. I'm accumulating suspension components now and should have it all sorted in the next month. Still having issues unfortunately. I've got a few troubleshooting avenues left to tick off then perhaps I'll try and take it to a shop. Luckily it's still very driveable at the moment.

Hi all, My USB/consult cable finally came through and I just plugged it in (cold engine) to get a reading. First thing I noticed was the Neutral Switch is set to off when I was in neutral and the O2 sensor was fluctuating wildly, subsequently the AF ratio was switching between lean and rich. Edit: upon a quick search, O2 sensor cycling is normal** @ Dose Pipe Sutututu, the ECU is an AT one, part number: 23710-AA513. Before i try swapping this out, is it possible the neutral switch or any of the NDS readings below could be causing this?

Cheers for the response. If you're referring to the idle/deceleration issues, I'm certain it's not normal. I borrowed a factory manual ER34 before receiving mine and the characteristics were as a normal car should be - idle at 700ish, incrementally lower RPM from cold to hot, no surging/hanging on deceleration. This is unfortunate for me, I realise. Pic of borrowed ER34 and mate's S15:

Thanks, I'll add a new thermostat to the to-do list. Can a faulty thermostat be linked to the other idle/hesitation issues?

Hi all, A while ago I started a thread asking advice on buying an HR34, where a member here, Kinkstaah, was kind enough to share some good information for my purchase. In the end, a good ER34 came up and I bit the bullet. In hindsight, the HR34 would have probably been a better shout, seeing as basically everything will be swapped in the end anyway. The new ER34 GTT is a 2 door, AT to MT swap car, which strangely had a 32 transmission (weak) swapped into it. It's in beautiful condition - bar a few scratches - as one of my main criteria for the car was to be as rust-free as possible. The aim for this build will be to supplant the Z33 I had prior and become a frequent track day toy and also cover general weekend driving in Japan. I'll start a build thread once my first batch of parts comes through. I'm currently sitting on some Volks and Recaros which came out of the Z. As of now, I'm experiencing an idle/deceleration/temperature problem with the car; thread can be found here if anyone has some insight regarding the problem:

Hi all, a little update after driving this week: The car will go cold when driving conditions are predominantly off throttle, e.g. on a downhill section when the engine is mostly on overrun. The water temp gauge will go from the 1/2 mark to 1/4 until the driving conditions normalise. The oil temp gauge also doesnt seem to ever get off the minimum mark (70'C) during very light driving - 20mins or more into the drive. This situation is making me question the temp sensor or thermostat. If anyone has any information on whether these can also cause idle troubles, it would be a great help. I haven't received the consult cable yet so am currently unable to troubleshoot this way.

Massive thanks for this - there is a difference in the second last digit between DET MT and AT variants. I will use this for reference and try to locate it on my ECU. Following your initial response I did a brief bit of research on the swap process and came back with information saying an ECU swap was not necessary, just that certain AT-specific ports became redundant afterwards. It is something I will need to look into further for sure. My initial thoughts upon purchase were that the swap has been done, so I can forget about it - rookie. I guess in the mean time I could also try unplugging the MAF and running it, just to tick it off.

I'm not sure - is there an easy way of checking? I was under the impression the car wouldn't run properly (if at all) without an MT ECU. The car was swapped before purchase. Strangely, it was swapped with an R32 transmission. I know, I know, this transmission doesn't have a particularly good reputation for longevity with the increased torque. I currently don't have plans to switch the ECU until approximately a year from now when I start accumulating engine parts.

Thanks for the input. The latter makes a lot of sense; presumably this is something I can only determine with the appropriate software? I'll have another crack at cleaning the IACV over the coming days, there are some tight nooks and crannies in there that could probably have been cleaned better. The change in behaviour is the most puzzling thing to me as it really doesn't hint to what the cause may be. Checking vacuum leaks is also something I'm yet to do but I was expecting different behaviour from a vacuum leak.

Hi all, Last week i took delivery of a 1999 ER34 GTT, RB25DET NEO (bone stock), the car has had an AT to MT conversion. I'm based in Japan and will start an introduction/build page once I organise the content. For now, I would love some input on a problem I'm experiencing with the car. Upon the first drive I noticed the idle was high, approx. 1,200rpm. The fan would start at a high speed on cold starts and most troubling is that when coasting to a stop the revs would remain at around 2,000rpm until you stop dead where it would settle at 1,200. If I coast in gear it will continue to propel the vehicle forward. After doing some research, It seemed it was worth cleaning out the Idle Air Control Valve, IACV (name check), adjusting the IACV screw and probing the TPS sensor to check for abnormalities. Today, I performed this task - the IACV was gunked-up a fair amount - and screwed the idle adjustment screw all the way in. The TPS reading was 0.42V at idle which I believe to be in spec. Following this, the car now idles at 900rpm - which is fine by my standards, although not perfect - and does not hold at 2,000rpm on deceleration. However, there is now a brief surge at 1,200rpm on deceleration only, which occurs regardless of whether I'm in neutral or in gear. I should also mention that the TCS and SLIP lamps came on during a test drive but have since disappeared. I have ordered a 14pin consult port to USB cable and will get Nissandatascan once it arrives. Shipping time is probably a month as it's from China. So in the mean time, if anyone has any suggestions, it would be greaty appreciated.

I appreciate your responses and much of my original question has been answered by either you or nissan.epc-data. It seems you have some reservations towards the RB25 setup, as do I towards the VQ - particularly the earlier ones. Really, the car just needs to be fun and reliable - I'm not after earth-stopping performance. It's not necessary for weekend track use. As for USD, it's the global reserve currency and easier for people to convert mentally. A Z06 isn't a viable purchase in Japan. Just for some background: I'm from the UK and work in Automotive R&D (ADAS development) in Nagoya, Aichi.

Cheers pal! Thanks, hopefully I'll actually be able to contribute soon. Brakes, diff - probs 1.5way w/5 bolt shafts - and suspension will be first on the agenda, plus roll/flare arches to fit my TEs. Maybe bushes depending on the state of the stockies and I would need to get my Recaros in it. I would hope to not swap the engine within at least a few years; I hear some absolutely banging RBs around here.

I think a budget of 5k USD for drivetrain issues over a few years of use is okay, provided the car is worth it. That said, I would absolutely hope to be able to push a year out of it without doing any major repairs - things like suspension bushes, vacuum hoses, ignition coils are expected to go. As for the Z; it needs a built/new engine, you're right. More specifically, it needs new rod bearings and oil control rings. I intended to get the engine replaced as that's around 3k USD (engine + labour) but unfortunately, the car has some moderate rust around the pinch welds and rear arches which is pushing the bill up. Your input is appreciated, and your remark about it being an HR34 is a concern. Another thing I need to clarify is, how rare are these things actually? particularly in a good format at a reasonable price: 12k USD.

Thanks for the input, the sway bar is is pretty crucial and it's good to know it mounts up, along with the brakes. I've found that the Z brembos will fit on a 33 with some minor modifications. This is probs a BBK option to explore. You're probably right on the Z, I've got the suspension setup pretty good now but I'm looking at about 6,000USD in repairs. With Skyline prices on the crux of oblivion it's either now or never to live this Gran Turismo fantasy.

Hi all, I'm a Z owner based in Japan and am in the market for Skyline. Today I went and looked at an HR34 with an RB25DET swap and manual conversion. The car is in brilliant shape, with little to no rust, however it's an HR34. I'm a relatively abusive driver and attend the track frequently but my Z is getting a little tired and I think it's time to switch cars. I want to know, what, other than the engine and transmission, will be weak on the HR34: - I've read that these cars are non-hicas - fine - and will have other implications when it comes to suspension setups such as GTST coilovers will be incompatible; I will need to use ECR33 variants. And also, the car doesn't have a rear sway bar. Is this as simple as buying a sway bar and installing it, or am i going to be missing mounting points also? - brakes: puny sliding caliper brakes were used on these. Is there anything else I'm missing here? Am I going to have any other difficulty sourcing and/or installing parts? Any help would be much appreciated. Oh, and here's a pic of my Z: