GoHashiriya

Good call, and normally that would be an easy option, say, if I were still in the UK. Selling to the Japanese in Japan (as a foreigner) carries it's own problems. I'll have to give this a bit more thought when I receive the replacements.

Appreciate this. I should've researched more tbh, as this seems like a better route. I was a sucker for them being sold by Kazama Auto, a fairly reputable company over in Japan. The company are replacing them under warranty; they have one set left, so presumably, if the next batch fail I can get a refund. The Kazama Auto coils have pretty good reviews on the Japanese sites, although most seem to describe what is essentially placebo. There's quite a few 1JZs running them as far as i could see. They mentioned in my returns email it's not advisable to run 5x Kazama "high intensity coils" plus 1x other brand, although in my experience, mix and match coils hasn't been a problem.

Thanks GTSboy appreciate the detail a lot. I understand it's a lottery with these, although, I was under the impression with them being endorsed by Kazama Auto they'd be better. A mechanic friend of mine enlightened me by saying "you know those are Chinese too, right?" It seems like I would be best off returning the set and whacking the generic Hanshin back in.

Hahaha, noted. I was unfortunately way too uninformed to do this. Not to mention the rule of 'if it aint broke don't fix it'. But in light of my mistake, and you having heaps of experience with these cars, would you be able to share any info that may help my case?

Hi all, after some code guessing last week I purchased some new Kazama Auto ignition coils (red ones). After installation, and driving about 30kms, the car developed a misfire. Last night I identified it as coil number one. I unplugged each coil to find the faulty bugger only to realise I could do the check with Nisdatascan. First time round I didnt apply any dielectric grease. So, last night I went ahead and applied the grease to see if it would rectify the issue; this is when I found the boot on one of the coil packs appeared to be disfigured at the tip, probably from heat-damage (see pic). I then went ahead and dropped in one of the old coils which appeared to rectify the issue, at least for the five mins I ran the car for after. Now, I'm looking to return the coil pack and preferably get a single replacement for the dud, but it would help if I could explain why this may have happened? I've bought cheap coils before that have been dead on arrival but wouldn't expect this from a name brand - despite they're probably less-than-OEM quality. The engine and ECU is stock - there is no third-party wiring apart from for the AT-MT swap. I checked the harness in the wheel arch for damage - as the car is low and running larger wheels - it's visually intact. The ignition coil harness appeared to have been replaced by the previous owner. I replaced the plugs this time round. Just FYI: the coils didn't need replacing in the first place, after getting intermittent error codes which seemed to clear once they disappeared from the dash, I guessed it may have been the ignition coils. Actually, it was code 17, for the TCS motor to which I've got another on the way now.

I’m unsure whether the non-NEO 25det has the charcoal canister purge valve sitting above-back of the head but mine was making a pretty irritating ticking (could call it clicking) sound. I replaced it quick so was unable to determine when it made the sound. It seemed to be random to me.

Thanks for this. I too want to slow down/stop the corrosion process at this location. It seems that regardless of the condition of the car, you will get rust on the strut tops unless you seam seal the car from new. I've really just been budgeting to get the plates swapped out, treated, then seam seal around the gaps. Until now all I've done is liberally blasted WD40 in and around the area from the wheel well, what effect this'll have is debatable, hopefully postive. I don't have any bubbling or abnormalities showing from the top side but on close inspection of the underside there are definitely traces of corrosion. With this method, presumably you only drilled through the top sheet of the strut top? Would it have been beneficial to drill more than one location? Does the leaky grease have any negative effect on other surfaces, e.g. brake lines or painted surfaces other than looking messy?

In Nagoya, which is always a fair way from other foreigners out here. But yeah, Daikoku in future perhaps.

Oooo, cool! nice car. Glad to see you're keeping hold of this. Where in JP are you based?

Need a sunroof motor if anyone has one. S15 motor is also compatible.

Over in Japan I still see a fair amount of Skylines, although a big difference now is that you seldom see the average driver with a low-spec model. Typically Skylines are owned by enthusiasts only these days.

Just to clarify for anyone searching: the new transmisssion came part-filled with oil from Nissan. We added about a litre of Castrol TAF-X before it started leaking from the fill hole. Shifting is fine - a tad notchy to begin with as expected but I've been shifting slow during break-in anyhow. I will be changing the oil in arround another 500kms, likely this month. As GTSBoy mentioned, crossmember was different - it was the B-type under the RB20 box. Luckily was able to order another from Nissan quickly.

If the RB25DE exhaust will fit, then I know Fujitsubo, 5Zigen and Kakimoto make mufflers for it. The part numbers, however, are different.

The non-turbo and turbo cat-backs have different diameter pipes. The turbo one is larger. As for whether you can mount a turbo exhaust to a non-turbo cat, I don't know. But you could try searching Nissan parts EPC for the part numbers.

Thanks again. As per the Castrol JP site we have: - TRANSMAX MANUAL 80W-90 ($9 US p/l) API GL-4, GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Partially synthetic oil - TRANSMAX MANUAL 75W-90 ($15 US p/l) API GL-3, GL-4 SAE 75W-90 * Partially synthetic oil The first one seems applicable to the run-in case and at less than half the price seems more suitable, financially.

I appreciate this a lot. Thanks for confirming! I’d been using the U.K. castrol site (as I’m a U.K. citizen) for comparison but couldn’t match anything up. I’m unable to find the VMX on a quick search but will check if there is a comparable over here for run in. At $100 (US) for the TAF-X it seems a bit wasteful to bin it after 1,000km. Ah well, we’ll see.

Actually it was a little difficult being in Japan as the products aren’t identical. I ended up with Castrol syntrans 75w90, whilst I was looking for syntrax. The description (translated) reads as this: “Castrol SYNTRANS Transaxle 75W-90 API GL-4 + Thin Trans Gear Oil Mission Oil All Synthetic Oil FF Car Transaxle Combined” On the can it says transaxle, manual transmission and FF. Cheers for your input - being unable to shift properly at high RPM would be pretty inconvenient, so If it is incorrect, I’ll just use it as break-in oil.

Hi all, the box is going in on Monday, Can anyone confirm whether Nissan fill the gearboxes with oil when ordered from the factory? I've ordered some 75W90 castrol for the after break-in change but potentially will need to use it before the transmission goes in.

It really depends on where you're from. Most EU countries have a partnership with Japan so you can get the WHV from the local embassy, it's a fairly easy application, you must be no older than 30 though. I'm from the UK but I know Spain and France can also get it, fairly sure Canada and Aus can also get it. For the US I'm unsure. The other route is to apply for an english teaching job from overseas at one of the pig sh*t ALT co's, pay will be crap - about 200-250k yen - but it will net you a work permit for 1 or 3 years - this is what I have now and can be used to work in other industries. I have a friend that did this, got the visa, came to Japan, quit the ALT job after one or two months after finding a better - although not amazing - english teaching job at an international school.

Congrats on the purchase and welcome. It actually looks cleaner than mine and im JP-based.

Yeah, my mate stacked his 86 into a wall last year and bent the front-right chassis rail. It all got fixed in the end and set him back about 600,000 JPY. That included fixing the crumpled wheel well, straightening the chassis leg, all the body parts, windshield and paint. There's a guy near me that seems to pull chassis legs straight all the time on old Toyotas and then there's the Yashio Factory guys that cut and weld the entire front sections of Silvias. You can get it done but budget high. Tolerances probably won't be perfect but you can likely get it pretty good.

I can't even trust half the agents I've met over here in Japan. Who know's how you'd go about it from overseas. The safest way would be to just buy it from someone with a good reputation - I've heard Rohab is good but can't vouch for it. Otherwise you can go over to Trust Kikaku but expect a price premium. Even once you get past finding a trustworthy agent, part of the problem is the cars aren't always trustworthy; you'll find 4s that should be R-rated and vice versa. You'll never know unless you can get a reliable third-party to check it over for you. Good luck to anyone seeking to import via an agent.

I picked one up from Nissan not long ago, part number was: 08931-3041A. You can double check on Nissan EPC data if there is any variation between our cars. Mine is a '99 ER34 GTT.

Plus one to basically everything that Tsuokun said. In my case I was going to move to Japan regardless but lucked-out a few months before I was about to wing-it and got a job as a Project Manager for an engineering co. The job market here is biased against you, myself and any other foreigner. But heck, give it a shot, I lucked-out with a friendly job so there's no reason you can't either. There are horror stories though, and a lot of them. Send the car back to Japan - agreed. You could opt for getting a working holiday visa and then 'upgrading' to a normal work permit after a while. That's a fairly common route. - I'm in Nagoya

I recently just changed the tire setup on my car. As mentioned, the previous setup was for trial purposes and I really wasn't a fan. The rear profile was just too large and it kept clipping the bumper tabs. I'm now running Accelera 651 Sports in 255/35 18 front and 265/35 18 rear. It's clipping the liner in the front under lock but as @Kinkstaah mentioned, you can push them back with a heat gun. Wheel specs are the same: Volk TE37SL 9.5 +22 and 10 +20 rear. If I were buying these again (I orginally bought them for my Z33), I would likely get 9.5 +22 all round. Camber is -3 front, -2.4 rear.