GoHashiriya

Appreciate this alot! From what I can see the R34 AT/MT crossmember is the same - going by part numbers. I did find some information amidst the leagues of info on this site that said the RB20 box will fit the AT R34 crossmember (potentially was an R33) but you would only be able to utilise two bolts to mount it. I'll double check this. Thanks for advising on the crossmember identifiers. I'll expect to do some dismantling of the speedo sensor and a bit more digging when we do the swap.

Hi all, I've been recently getting back on track in the 34 and figured it was time to take the plunge and upgrade the gearbox. I bought the car late last year, it was originally an auto, though the previous owner (or one of) swapped the gearbox with the less-than-adequate RB20det box. This month I have been accumulating parts to convert it to the 30A transmission; bought the 34 tailshaft from the UK for pretty cheap as they're going for 100,000JPY ($900-ish) here (Japan) and this week placed an order for a new 30A from Nissan. The good news is, a lot of the harder to source parts I already have from the previous swap. However, I'm not 100% clear on what I can keep and what needs replacing. I know there's some funny business involved with getting the 32 mechanical speedo to work with the 34 one, but am not clear on what modifications would have been made and how to reverse them if necessary. From what I've read, the modifications take place on the sensor side. Although, I have come across information regarding calibration of the tachometer. Will the master cylinder / lines be reusable for the new transmission? I've put together the following list, and it would be great if someone could point out anything I'm missing. Component Part Name / Number Unit Price Shipping Total Transmission FS5R30A 32010-AA520 ¥214,000 ¥15,000 ¥229,000 Propeller Shaft Nissan 37000AA500 ¥39,313 ¥30,000 ¥69,313 Clutch EXEDY ER34 Clutch 3-piece set 30210-AA001 30100-AA068 ¥42,350 ¥880 ¥43,230 Flywheel NA 　 　 ¥0 Spigot Bush NA 　 　 ¥0 Shifter Nissan 32839AA501/32839AB000 ¥5,387 　 ¥5,387 Clutch Master Cylinder ? 　 　 ¥0 Clutch Slave Cylinder Nissan 3062012U20 ¥10,753 　 ¥10,753 Clutch Master - Slave Lines ? 　 　 ¥0 Pedal Assembly NA 　 　 ¥0 Transmission Oil 　 　 　 ¥0 Clutch Fluid 　 　 　 ¥0 Labour 　 ¥100,000 　 ¥100,000 Resale (old parts) 　 　 　 ¥0 Total 　 ¥411,803 ¥45,880 ¥457,683

Yeah I think you're both right, particularly seeing as I plan to keep the car long term. I'll just jump on the new transmission before the price gets revised further.

I'm in the market for a transmission upgrade and am curious as to what your thoughts are on current pricing for FS5R30A transmissions. For a bit of back story, I bought my R34 GTT last year and it came with the the less-than-suitable R32 RB20det (71C) gearbox, which was used to swap the car from AT to MT at some point . I frequently visit the track for both grip and drift sessions, although recently, less so on the latter due to fear of killing the box. The 71C has to go, and it will be better to sell it whilst it's fuctioning. Nissan prices for the FS5R30A are in the region of 240,000JPY (2,200USD) now, up from around 180,000JPY (1,600USD) last year. There's a used FS5R30A with 100,000kms which is claimed to be working on yahoo auction and im questioning whether to bid. it's currently just below half the new cost but I expect it to go up further. The labour cost for a transmission rebuild from what I've found is 120,000JPY, which rules out getting it and having it rebuilt as a cost effective option. A mate of mine has said he wouldn't pay more than 80,000JPY for one but I'm not so sure he's factoring in today's value for the box. So the question is, how much would you pay for this used box with 100,000kms?

The acceleration sensation is subjective and if anything irrelevant anyway. The part number is correct according to the Nismo catalogue, along with the chassis number and Nissan EPC. I did get an update that he managed to fit the flanges and have since picked the car up. However, he did use the original 13mm bolts. Unfortunately he didn't get any pics of the work. He made a comment about how disgusting the insides were and that he was unable to clean up all of the caked oil. The car has about 240k kms on it. I know right, luckily the mechanic was able to get the flanges in today - he told me it was super difficult - and I was able to pick the car up. However, he did not use the 12mm bolts that came with the diff. It is odd, and even if Nismo were to have made a mistake - again, highly unlikely - you'd have thought it would have been corrected this far down the line. Where the mistake lies and what I am going to do with these additional bolts, I have no idea.

Hi all, This morning I took the car to my mechanic to have a new Nismo GT LSD (38420-RS015-BA) installed and he's just contacted me with some issues regarding bolt sizing and flange fitment. So far he's told me that the bolts that came with the Diff assembly are too small, 12mm vs the 13mm in the car already. And also he cannot get the flanges to fit correctly. I should mention that the car is a stock 1998 ER34 GTT, however it came as a factory auto and had been swapped to a (cursed) R32 transmission. I wouldn't have thought the diff has been changed but who knows. As far as the gearing is concerned, I'm certain my ER34 has the AT ratio for final drive as the acceleration is noticeably quicker than another ER34 GTT I've driven. My question is, do you have any idea what may be happening here? I would have thought there would be no issues installing the Nismo diffs. There's also the issue that he doesn't speak much English, and I dont speak much Japanese, but he's a nice bloke and has been very helpful so far and dont good quality work on smaller jobs.

Thanks for the response. I did wonder if this was a physical install problem, particularly sicne the pump didnt fit in the cradle properly. I haven't had time to reinstall the pump since chucking the factory one back in but this is good to know. Did you have any issues with fitting the pump in the bracket? I have since hooked the pump up to an external power source and that was fine from 11.5v up to 14v. Although, that's not really gonna show me what I need to know.

Appreciate the feedback, I’ll get on the case.

Hi all, Over the weekend I installed the Walbro GSS342 (G3) 255 fuel pump in my ER34 RB25DET and replaced the fuel filter. I used the original strainer with the pump. The pump did not fit directly in the cradle, I had to bend the seat outwards to get it to fit. As you may have guessed from the title, the car has been bogging down under acceleration, under any kind of load it will initially bog down before picking-up again. The car is bone stock besides a cone filter. I have read the threads regarding the rewiring to a direct feed from the battery but didn't think this was a mandatory requirement for running the pump with a stock car. Could it be that the Walbro pump is faulty? I have since bent the cradle back and thrown the stock pump back in, it now seems to be working as it was before. I switched the pump due to the original one having a faint whining sound and also delivering occasional bouts of bogging down during acceleration. Say, two or three times over the last 1,000 kms. Any input would be much appreciated, before I spend forever filing a return in Japanese.

This is just an FYI for anyone visiting in the future. The list of tracks posted on https://www.motoracing-japan.com/circuit/index.html is in no way comprehensive. Japan is home to heaps of tracks, see my map of the tracks around Nagoya. If you go anywhere and just search for サーキット (circuit) using google maps, you should find a bunch around you. Sometimes they offer rental cars; you'll need to visit the track's website (with google translate) to find out.

Try cross-referencing the part numbers on the Nissan EPC data site. This should help.

No worries, cheers for the appreciation. I should probably note that the rears are hitting the bumper tabs under high compression - happened a few times on the highway. I think the toe is out quite a bit (toe in) - just from eyeballing it. The 255/40s were the fronts off my Z, they're not ideal but they fill the gap well. I'm undecided of where to go from here, possibly 265/35 rear and 255/35 front when i upgrade (hankook V12s are sh*te). The fronts are scrubbing the liners on full lock and again under compression. I'm gonna heat them up and try to push them back, possibly try and push the fronts up with the arch roller, then I've got some weather stripping to seal the newly-formed gap between the liner and the fender.

Whoops, that's actually 10J +20 for the rear.

Dialled the front camber back to 1.35 degrees (as per the cusco manual), it's probably around 2.5 degrees with the drop. Rear camber is unknown at the moment. Wheels: TE37 SL 9.5J, +22/ 10J +10 Tires: Hankook V12 Ventus Evo2 235/40/18 front and 255/40/18 rear Fenders rolled flat.

I'm figuring out my setup at the moment - alignment isn't for another 5 weeks. For the front I'm running TE37s in 18x9.5 +22. Camber arms are Cusco and they're set at the max negative setting, which is -2.2 according to the manual, but are likely around -3 with the drop. Front tires are 235/40 Hankook V12 Evo 2s which I'm using for getting the sizes right. Arches are rolled flat and pulled very slightly. As you can see, there was probably no need to do this. I'm contemplating getting 255/35s up front and dialing the camber back to -1.35 (as per the manual) but it will be tight. I am currently hitting the fender liners at full lock. Sorry the pic is portrait, I took this to send on my phone.

This is good news, thanks for the info. Forgive my 170,000 JPY’s worth of panic panic! It’s still a worrying prospect that they think they can double prices in a single blow.

Approx. 370,000 JPY, previously (as little as a month ago) 185,000 JPY for the 32010-AA520. I've been watching new ER34 transmissions via Trust Kikaku (Trust Planning in english) with intent to pick one up later this year. Yahoo auc item number: 663151206. Perhaps they're still available via the Nissan dealer, I'll try and get a quote next time I go by.

The list price on new ER34 manual transmissions has just doubled here in Japan, much to my dismay.

You're correct, it's an RB20 box - a questionable choice for a swap into an ER34. I know, I know - a budget for a suitable transmission is in the works. The switch in question for me is the one just forward of the shifter:

Over the weekend I had a glance under the car and found the neutral switch - located just forward of the shifter - isn't plugged into anything. I've tried searching but have found limited results indicating the colours or location of the wires I need to plug this into. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. The best description of the wiring I've found is this: "When you (have) disconnected the loom from the gearbox, you should have disconnected 4 plugs. The green and black plugs on the PNP switch, the plug for the speedometer which is grey with an orange and a black wire, and a second speedometer plug, which is brown. I’ll start with the PNP plugs. You only need the black plug. On the black plug, there are 3 wires that you need. The red wire for the reverse switch, this also needs a earth wire that you can splice from the earth (black wire) that goes into the speedometer sensor. The other two wires that you need are the brown with yellow stripe and green with white stripe. These are for the neutral switch." The thread is regarding an R34 auto-manual swap. Do these wire colours apply across the board for the 34? Apologies for the poor quality pic, it was relatively tight under the car.

Fortunately it doesn't look too bad. I would just get a wire wheel on it and take it back to bare metal, clean it up, then get some rust protector (POR15 or similar) on it and cover it with some underseal. The most worrying part would be whether the rust has gotten in above the pinch welds. In which case it will need professional help - cutting, welding etc.

Prices are up. There was a piece on NHK (local news site) last year about how corona virus is prompting more business-types to spend less time going out and more time, and consequently money, on leisure activities, including buying cars. Skylines and the rest of the legends are increasing to astronomical highs over here.

Honestly, It's gonna take me about a month to crack on with this job. I've gotta move house next month which will hold me back. I'm going to try and do coilovers, hicas lock and arms next weekend, plus get the wheels mounted and aligned. It's the wrong order I know, but I don't wanna have the car in an immovable state before moving. I appreciate everyone's input so far and will be sure to update this when I make some progress.

That's alright. I have got a copy already, albeit only the R34 one which presumably doesnt cover my 32 trans. Thanks for the reminder though as it did slip my mind.

Thanks for the feedback both of you. The neutral switch will be up there on the agenda. Any pointers for assessing it's situation? Will I need the car on a lift, or is this accessible through the shifter opening in the centre console? Bear in mind the car has an R32 transmission. Thermostat pointer noted - cheers. I have an oil leak coming from the oil cooler in the thermostat vicinity, so hopefully pulling both will make it a touch easier for installation.