GoHashiriya

It will be somewhere in that direction. I will be living in Maastricht initially as my boss intends to rent a house there that I can use. But around the time the Skyline arrives - March-June - is when I will be looking to move somewhere central. The car is low, suspension is almost entirely aftermarket, it's a bit lower than I'd like but it's set up well now. I don't really mind the larger plates but the front needs to be square to fit in the bumper recess. Exhaust front pipe and cat is standard. Won't change this until I get to Europe as the pricing for these parts is the same as Japan. Rear is noisy but I have a silencer (butt plug) which makes it similar to OEM Nismo exhaust sound levels. Rear fog light I can probably 3D print a bracket at work that sits below the number plate in the black area of the bumper. I was thinking to convert one of the reverse lights initially - see pics. Sorry to hijack thread like this. Eindhoven was beautiful when I visited last summer, really liked the place. I have been really surprised at how different the rest of the Netherlands is to Amsterdam. Circuits in NL are unbearably expensive compared to Japan unfortunately.

Yeah I know the ones, they're pretty cheap out here. I was thinking about running them for drifting as the headlights are so expensive now but just got lazy with everything else breaking on the car. My company's office is in Eindhoven, but I suspect my girlfriend will work in Amsterdam so we are looking to move somewhere in between; Utrecht is what we've been looking at for reference. I'll DM you about the getting the car legal. Honestly, shaken is not that strict, more strict than the UK but essentially just tick boxes. Good to know the Dutch one is more relaxed as I don't even have the original suspension equipment anymore. I've been in contact with importers who say I need to modify the headlights and add a fog lamp, which should be easy.

Yeah I also spotted that. As far as I know the shop for full restorations has shut down - check their IG page. Whether this applies to the online store I am unsure. They do have the strut tops for sale online which is worth a shot. I've been tempted just to buy them for spare, at <£300 the price isnt bad.

Sad to hear about the dent but doesn't sound too bad. It's strange I was last to comment here and since then, some developments have occured that it seems I will be moving to the Netherlands at the end of the year, shipping my skyline with me of course. What do you mean by lambo headlights? I've been assessing headlight options recently and have been leaning on picking up a set before I leave Japan - mine are just old, the plastic is like cheese and since I track the car am worried about damaging them.

Looks really nice, good work

The top plate is the same though, right? As far as I'm aware of anyway, and that's the b*stard that causes the most problems. I was going to recommend SR Autobodies (UK) for just the strut plates but it seems they have now shut. I'm sure Garage Yoshida provide strut tops only; I recall seeing on their blog a strut-top only replacement they did - it would be worth contacting them.

From what little I can see it doesnt look so bad, some clearer pictures of the strut tops will tell a better story as you can see them deform - from the rust underneath - on the flat spot of the plate nearest the strut itself. As others have mentioned this will need doing at some point, even if your car is immaculate, rust will develop between the metal sheets around the strut towers. Now as a reference , Garage Yoshida (famous Japanese restoration shop for R chassis) will replace the entire strut tower for around 600k JPY which I believe is about 6k AUD. Depending on the state of the area you might be able to get away with just replacing only top plates themselves which can be done for about a third of that. Can it be done yourself? Yes, of course. But I would probably think twice if you've never done this kind of repair before as its pretty specialist.

Yeah that was a pretty good outcome. Fortunately for the BMWs there are an abundance of poverty spec e90s enroute to the scrapyard you can get the cosmetic parts from. Mine came with hideous beige interior in equally as hideous condition - used black cloth interior can be found on UK eBay for £50-£150.

My engine is stock and I'm still in the garage every other weekend fixing it.

I wrote this in a post not long ago but seeing as your question is a tad different: I'm running the OEM R34 brakes for frequent track use with stock power. Have had them rebuilt, Dixcel Z type pads, slotted Dixcel rotors (this combo is noisy as sin) and Nismo braided lines - they're fine and hold up well, the engine begins to get into dangerous temp levels and I have to cool off before the brakes lose effectiveness. Also ran the car with oem pads, rotors, hoses, it also performed fine. My friend is running a 500hp 4 door R34 with the stock r34 brakes with good pads/discs and has no issues. As others have said, the r34 calipers have recently increased in price but probably are still cheaper than any alternative. From memory they're about 400USD in Japan.

That's both surprising and unsurprising, surprising it hasn't lasted and unsurprising since, now I am a BMW owner again - previously owned an E46 - I'm realising how broken everything is comparatively to my R34 which is 9 years older. I can't really trust BMW these days and will be stuck in 5-10 years when I need another RWD car to f**k about with - still do like driving them though.

Does the R33 have the same solder joint problem in the MAF as the 34? Could be worth checking the status of those.

Injectors haven't been sorted out entirely and the price has trippled for them over covid. You're looking at USD500 a pop, and you'll need six in one go (sometimes can get away with one bank of 3 depending on your car) if you're moving above index 10 (or 11,- can't remember), 12 is the latest version. I bought an N53 325i last year, which has most of the trauma of the N54 but none of the power. That said, I do want to turn it into a 325i cup car. I've since realised the Skyline is significantly cheaper though E90 is a better car for normal use.

I can add it to my cart. As far as I know they sell retail, domestic (Japan). For international shipping try what GTSBoy said, or Tweed Auto Garage (same thing as Jesse Streeter) just I have experience with Jordan at Tweed Auto. I dont think you can go wrong with either.

Shaft auto service have a similar looking lip for the stock bumper. You should try them (Japan-based).

You're both absolute heros, thank you.

Hey, where did you get the service manual in nihongo? My mechanic is asking for it. Searching in Japanese is like dating whilst deaf and blind

Yeah that's the one. Actually, appreciate this as I couldnt wipe the 36 code after and didnt think the signal wheel had made contact with the sensor - it had. I left the car at the shop and will have my mechanic switch it out this week. I know, it's an easy job, but I have zero time at the moment. Shaken is on the 5th.

Thanks for the help @joshuaho96, pulled the codes today and got 36, rear left ABS sensor short. Then found what you see in the pic. Gonna get it on the lift this afternoon and attempt to sort it out. Fingers crossed may get next week’s track day in after all.

Running Recaro SR3s, rails are Juran racing (some Japanese brand). I do not recommend for heavy track use as they don’t provide enough support. Look good though. I will likely be switching for Bride Zeta 4s in the coming year.

Appreciate the info, first port of call will be digging for these additional codes. I may try to get ahold of a known working ABS computer from a friend and try the easy way of plugging it in to see if that works - I imagine the same could go for the actuator up front. Grateful used ABS computers and actuators are pretty cheap still, if I need one.

I appreciate the level of detail in this, I was unaware NDS1 did not give out the entirety of the codes. We initially scanned it using the NisTune software from @tsuokun. That's where we pulled code 44. Actually, code 44 has since disappeared, and upon running the car this morning there were no warning lamps on the dash - which is of course more annoying. I found a broken earth from the manifold to the strut tower, although this is likely unrelated. You've given me a fair bit to go off so I'll review this and see what I can find.

That 32 is a beauty

Seeing as the system is untouched - bar the TCS motor - I'm wondering whether there is any particular part of it that's prone to failure. Searching in Japanese ive found some examples of people replacing the computer and the motor/pump to rid the ABS/TCS/Slip lights from the dash but they never go into detail.

I have a feeling this particular failure is the solder joints in the control unit itself. I've read about this a few times, but cant confirm as - touch wood - it hasnt happened to mine yet. Similar issue to the boost sensor and MAF sensor solder joints. If this is the case you'll want to look inside the unit, as if youre replacing the bulbs, and confirm the internal connectors are working. Otherwise, I see the units pop up on yahoo auction form time to time at about 100k JPY or 1,000 AUD Sorry, missed the part where you said its been tested in another car. Scrap what I said and follow GTSBoy