GoHashiriya

Cheers. What country does the xenon w/o washer restriction apply to? From memory, the R34s in NL - where I’ll be going - don’t have headlight washers. I know this is usually a requirement in the U.K. on cars I’ve bought there.

Mother f*cker. Just got back from the shop, and will need to redo it most likely. I’ll try adding a 5/6mm (depending on how I feel) to the wall on the bulb housing this time. This is a note to all of you.

Yeah, I wondered this too. But the aforementioned Finnish friend ran this for some years (approx. eight years) in Finland and it was holding up fine when he sent the car back to Japan - fingers crossed. Either way, it's a damn sight easier than welding it up.

I searched everywhere for a DIY on this, including in other languages for other R34-importing countries: Finland, Netherlands, France, Germany etc. and all I could find was a decades-old thread on a UK-based Skyline forum with incomplete/non-existent pictures. I then spoke with another R34-driving friend in Japan, a Finnish chap - also a member here - and he explained to me that making the beam "flat", as is accepted in many LHD countries was easy, and guided me through the process. Last weekend, as the mad rush to make my car EU-compliant continued, I took a few pictures as I modded the headlights for EU compliance. The car will be taken to the port in Japan in a few weeks. The idea is that the bulb housing needs to have a piece of material added to it where it projects the beam upwards to the left side - consequently dazzling left-side oncoming traffic. The guy in the other thread explaining this process welded a small piece of steel to the housing, which is practically irreversible and invites potential for damage. The way my friend did it, and subsequently I have done it, is to add aluminium tape instead. With the headlights removed, and in a well-lit workspace. Remove the security bit and then the cover for the Xenon bulb: Once removed, you'll need to unclip the bulb retainer and remove the 3x phillips head screws: Carefully twist and remove the bulb from the connector and set it aside in a clean, secure area: With the bulb removed, you'll then be able to remove the bracket and retaining clip to access the bulb housing: With the bulb housing out, you'll be able to see the right side is lower than the left side. This is the part that increases the beam output on the left side. Why does the right side increase output on the left side? The beam is flipped upside-down and right to left via the headlight reflector: This is the part where I had to have faith in that decades-old thread from the other forum. The previous poster claimed you had to add 4mm of material to the lower side of the housing, to block enough output to make the beam flat. As I don't have time to f*ck around, I'm just going by what he said. My friend told me he can't remember how much material he added. We'll find out later whether 4mm was sufficient. Make sure you buy good-quality aluminium tape, as it gets hot in there. I added masking tape to the tape to mark it off in 4mm intervals across the width, then scored the tape - this will help in application - the length was 35mm: 25mm for the length across the light-exposed portion and 10mm as support on the bulb housing: Fold the tape evenly prior to application to ensure you get a straight edge: Clean the bulb housing with degreaser and apply the aluminium tape. Having scored across the tape, you should be able to align it "perfectly" with the bulb housing. Reintall everything in the reverse order, replicate the process on the other headlight, aaaand done. Wish me luck in my next vehicle inspection. Note: I had to remove the spade terminal on the bulb connector to get it sufficiently out the way. Note: You will be modifying the right-side of both bulb housings. Don't try to mirror this on the other side. Time taken: 30mins - 1 hour p/side. Plus whatever it takes to remove/install the headlights from the car. I will hopefully get a chance to check the beam this weekend at the shop when the windscreen gets replaced. I've got a before picture so will upload a before & after if I can get that image.

Cheers for this. I'll check if we have one at work I can nab and go from there. Backprobing is easy, but yeah, need the full story really. If it is $1-200 for an oscilloscope, I might just try the backprobing method and buying a spare CAS to cover me. They're also about $150-200 for these rebuilt units. Plus, I could probably sell it in Europe at a profit if I need to.

That would explain a lot re my findings. The code I got from NDS was “Code 11 cam angle sensor circuit (CAS) P0340” - should have specified. Also, should have mentioned the engine is stock. The starter motors were cheaper than I thought so ordered one anyway last night, will throw it in this weekend.

Had a strange one today at the track. Engine was hot - very hot, but luckily managed to cool it down for a good 5 minutes before this occured. I stalled the car when pulling out of the pit (amateur, I know) and the car wouldn't start. I thought the starter was dead and got some guys to help me push start the car, which was fine. After, I checked the code and it threw a P0340 for the cam sensor - which is where exactly? I replaced the crank sensor (CAS) not long ago, maybe 5k kms, with a rebuilt one here in Japan (could also be a dud). When searching for P0340, I really can't find much related to the 25det. Googling cam sensor just displays images of the crank sensor, I believe the names are used interchangably. I'm tempted to chuck a new starter in seeing as they're cheap and the car is at 255k on what I believe is the original. But basically, I'll be shipping this car back to Europe from Japan very soon. I have two weeks before my next (last) track session and would really like to not accidentally cook the engine if I stall it when it's hot. There's also the issue that the car has to be operational for the shipping company. So I ask, has anyone had this code/phenomena before and solved the issue?

In my experience the MAFs are pretty robust in these, mine is original and with 255k on it. I did re-sodler the joints at one point but that wasn't my issue, it was the CAS. I would even take a punt at getting a used original MAF from yahoo auction if mine was suspected of funny business - there's one right now at about EUR 50. You said your coils were splitfire, but how old are they? They will fail just like the OEM ones and many have 100k+ kms on them now. I thought splitfire went out of business a while ago? The parts GTSBoy mentioned earlier really shouldnt be too expensive. I went ahead and just threw those exact parts at the car for preventative maintenance - OEM coils/plugs/harness, soldered MAF, rebuilt CAS and Walbro - and, touch wood, it's running fine. All this stuff won't be so expensive and you should really expect to replace them anyway on a 25yr old car.

So here we are, two years later and I'm just clearing this as my OCD won't allow threads to go unfinished. Today, I finally got around to wiring the fuel pump from the battery. However, first, I tested the Walbro with the OEM loom, took it around the block and it worked fine, so went ahead with the battery direct feed anyway as I was there. The most relatable thing that's changed since I last attemped this was that there is no longer an immobiliser (relay) along the OEM fuel pump power line. Could that have caused this? beats me. Also changed since I attempted this two years ago: - Battery - CAS - Boost leak fixed (this had a slight impact on drivability - leaking from the factory boost sensor hose)

I replaced the fuel pump and had this issue before, just whacked the stock one back in - as it wasn't the problem I was trying to fix - and no longer had the problem. Why is your water temp gauge so high?

I had this issue - albeit less severe - during tight low speed corners and very, very, occasionally at idle. I could feel it through fast sweeping corners if the engine speed was low enough. My PS fluid was old - like piss, you could say - so I replaced it which essentially fixed the problem. However, the rack was leaking quite significantly so I replaced the rack anyway, as I'm in Japan and the racks are cheap. First port of call is to replace/top up the fluid.

Seen these in Japan, try yahoo auction

Thank you!

Does anybody know what oil I can use, and the quantity for the AC system/compressor only? The FSM says "use DH-PR for the compressor oil" other sources are saying PAG 100.

Thanks for the input. Couldn't find anything regarding removing the compressor in the HA section but it seems fairly straightforward. EDIT: got it. It's in the HA section of the Japanese manual for me, not in the english one.

Well here we are, a year later and my AC has depleted again. I refilled it back in Feb only for it to lose refrigerant a month later. Luckily, as recommended by others on here, I added dye this time around and, whilst using a UV light, have found traces of semen dye around the compressor connector. I'm going to get a rebuilt compressor whilst I'm in there, seeing as they're cheapish in JP. Now, my question is, how difficult is it to remove the AC compressor? any special tools needed? from looking at other cars I've seen you need to disconnect the pipe that runs to the cabin, then a couple around the compressor. probably the intake pipe too - engine is stock. Yes, yes I know, cannot vent it to atmosphere. I don't know the regs in Japan but it's probably incomprehendible anyway. The system is most likely empty by now as it's been over a month since the AC pressure switch was triggered.

As a Brit (Pom), the right of passage that is going to Amsterdam at 18 to nail your brain cells to the bottom of a canal scarred me. Going to Eindhoven (at 32), as you can imagine, was a much more serene experience. Ah perfect, cobble streets for my Japan-height car. It is a beautiful area around there, especially if you're lucky enough experience it in summer. With my one billion pictures of the car I always intended to set up a build thread but you know how it is, the car is usually broken or I'm at the track so that's where the time goes. I'll do what that other guy did, kinkstah* (or something like that) and do a backdated one. But you're right, those environments are wonderful; you should also add Norway/northern Sweden to your pipe dream.

I contacted Shaft about the one above and it comes as a full bumper only. For me, the issue with the URAS lip is that it doesn't fit well enough for my liking, plus everyone seems to run it here. If I can't find anything suitable before I leave Japan, I'll just do as @niZmO_Man suggested and make one. If you have more details on this car, I could trace it through the Japanese forums and try reaching out to the owner (providing it is a Japanese owner). I like this lip a lot. Looks BNR34 style, but exactly which one it is would be beyond me.

It will be somewhere in that direction. I will be living in Maastricht initially as my boss intends to rent a house there that I can use. But around the time the Skyline arrives - March-June - is when I will be looking to move somewhere central. The car is low, suspension is almost entirely aftermarket, it's a bit lower than I'd like but it's set up well now. I don't really mind the larger plates but the front needs to be square to fit in the bumper recess. Exhaust front pipe and cat is standard. Won't change this until I get to Europe as the pricing for these parts is the same as Japan. Rear is noisy but I have a silencer (butt plug) which makes it similar to OEM Nismo exhaust sound levels. Rear fog light I can probably 3D print a bracket at work that sits below the number plate in the black area of the bumper. I was thinking to convert one of the reverse lights initially - see pics. Sorry to hijack thread like this. Eindhoven was beautiful when I visited last summer, really liked the place. I have been really surprised at how different the rest of the Netherlands is to Amsterdam. Circuits in NL are unbearably expensive compared to Japan unfortunately.

Yeah I know the ones, they're pretty cheap out here. I was thinking about running them for drifting as the headlights are so expensive now but just got lazy with everything else breaking on the car. My company's office is in Eindhoven, but I suspect my girlfriend will work in Amsterdam so we are looking to move somewhere in between; Utrecht is what we've been looking at for reference. I'll DM you about the getting the car legal. Honestly, shaken is not that strict, more strict than the UK but essentially just tick boxes. Good to know the Dutch one is more relaxed as I don't even have the original suspension equipment anymore. I've been in contact with importers who say I need to modify the headlights and add a fog lamp, which should be easy.

Yeah I also spotted that. As far as I know the shop for full restorations has shut down - check their IG page. Whether this applies to the online store I am unsure. They do have the strut tops for sale online which is worth a shot. I've been tempted just to buy them for spare, at <£300 the price isnt bad.

Sad to hear about the dent but doesn't sound too bad. It's strange I was last to comment here and since then, some developments have occured that it seems I will be moving to the Netherlands at the end of the year, shipping my skyline with me of course. What do you mean by lambo headlights? I've been assessing headlight options recently and have been leaning on picking up a set before I leave Japan - mine are just old, the plastic is like cheese and since I track the car am worried about damaging them.

Looks really nice, good work

The top plate is the same though, right? As far as I'm aware of anyway, and that's the b*stard that causes the most problems. I was going to recommend SR Autobodies (UK) for just the strut plates but it seems they have now shut. I'm sure Garage Yoshida provide strut tops only; I recall seeing on their blog a strut-top only replacement they did - it would be worth contacting them.

From what little I can see it doesnt look so bad, some clearer pictures of the strut tops will tell a better story as you can see them deform - from the rust underneath - on the flat spot of the plate nearest the strut itself. As others have mentioned this will need doing at some point, even if your car is immaculate, rust will develop between the metal sheets around the strut towers. Now as a reference , Garage Yoshida (famous Japanese restoration shop for R chassis) will replace the entire strut tower for around 600k JPY which I believe is about 6k AUD. Depending on the state of the area you might be able to get away with just replacing only top plates themselves which can be done for about a third of that. Can it be done yourself? Yes, of course. But I would probably think twice if you've never done this kind of repair before as its pretty specialist.