GoHashiriya

Strut tops look clean and paint looks good in the bay. Welcome to the club

I was selfish and bought a load of crap for my car before sending it (it's at the port now). A spare set of Recaros (SR3 Le Mans) I was planning to use in my E90 but I'm not sure anymore, the R34 has Bride Zeta 4s. I'm lucky as my company is Japanese so I can order stuff through the Japan office pretty easily - perfect for bribery. The company has put me in Maastricht until July, then I've gotta figure sh*t out on my own. Probably will move somewhere more central like Utrecht/Den Bosch when the rental contract is up. Honk if you see me:

Nice! There seem to be a fair few of these in the Netherlands. I'm moving to NL next month and shipping my car (R34 GTT) from Japan this month.

Valino are pretty popular out here in Japan, they make tyres for high-grip applications (front-end on drift cars and for time attack cars) and long-life drift tires with varying levels of grip. I was going to go for a set (drift pair) but the drift tyres had a little too much grip for stock power (and my skill level). EDIT: Greeva is a drift tyre though so ditch that for regular driving or drive with the expectation you could be sideways at any moment. I have been using the Nankang NS2Rs (TW120) and Accelera 651S (TW180) for grip driving, drift fronts and regular driving - I rarely/never drive in the rain. These have been good to me.

Amazing. You’ve done basically everything I want to do, besides missing the longer drive for the oil pump (did you have that already?) and an oil drain at the back of the head. Manifold looks so good plus it all looks pretty tidy. I noticed you also had a coolant leak at the connector for the heater core hose above the starter. Interesting, I just re-sealed that connector a couple weeks ago.

I’ve added a 5mm wall and tried to match the curvature of the bulb housing. It looks a bit better now but there is still slight beam spillage which I’m starting to think comes from the shape of the reflector. I’ll leave it like this for now and see what they say in NL.

Cheers. I found something similar to this (2009? For the U.K.) and deemed that enough reasoning to justify why the R34s in NL don’t have this feature.

Cheers. What country does the xenon w/o washer restriction apply to? From memory, the R34s in NL - where I’ll be going - don’t have headlight washers. I know this is usually a requirement in the U.K. on cars I’ve bought there.

Mother f*cker. Just got back from the shop, and will need to redo it most likely. I’ll try adding a 5/6mm (depending on how I feel) to the wall on the bulb housing this time. This is a note to all of you.

Yeah, I wondered this too. But the aforementioned Finnish friend ran this for some years (approx. eight years) in Finland and it was holding up fine when he sent the car back to Japan - fingers crossed. Either way, it's a damn sight easier than welding it up.

I searched everywhere for a DIY on this, including in other languages for other R34-importing countries: Finland, Netherlands, France, Germany etc. and all I could find was a decades-old thread on a UK-based Skyline forum with incomplete/non-existent pictures. I then spoke with another R34-driving friend in Japan, a Finnish chap - also a member here - and he explained to me that making the beam "flat", as is accepted in many LHD countries was easy, and guided me through the process. Last weekend, as the mad rush to make my car EU-compliant continued, I took a few pictures as I modded the headlights for EU compliance. The car will be taken to the port in Japan in a few weeks. The idea is that the bulb housing needs to have a piece of material added to it where it projects the beam upwards to the left side - consequently dazzling left-side oncoming traffic. The guy in the other thread explaining this process welded a small piece of steel to the housing, which is practically irreversible and invites potential for damage. The way my friend did it, and subsequently I have done it, is to add aluminium tape instead. With the headlights removed, and in a well-lit workspace. Remove the security bit and then the cover for the Xenon bulb: Once removed, you'll need to unclip the bulb retainer and remove the 3x phillips head screws: Carefully twist and remove the bulb from the connector and set it aside in a clean, secure area: With the bulb removed, you'll then be able to remove the bracket and retaining clip to access the bulb housing: With the bulb housing out, you'll be able to see the right side is lower than the left side. This is the part that increases the beam output on the left side. Why does the right side increase output on the left side? The beam is flipped upside-down and right to left via the headlight reflector: This is the part where I had to have faith in that decades-old thread from the other forum. The previous poster claimed you had to add 4mm of material to the lower side of the housing, to block enough output to make the beam flat. As I don't have time to f*ck around, I'm just going by what he said. My friend told me he can't remember how much material he added. We'll find out later whether 4mm was sufficient. Make sure you buy good-quality aluminium tape, as it gets hot in there. I added masking tape to the tape to mark it off in 4mm intervals across the width, then scored the tape - this will help in application - the length was 35mm: 25mm for the length across the light-exposed portion and 10mm as support on the bulb housing: Fold the tape evenly prior to application to ensure you get a straight edge: Clean the bulb housing with degreaser and apply the aluminium tape. Having scored across the tape, you should be able to align it "perfectly" with the bulb housing. Reintall everything in the reverse order, replicate the process on the other headlight, aaaand done. Wish me luck in my next vehicle inspection. Note: I had to remove the spade terminal on the bulb connector to get it sufficiently out the way. Note: You will be modifying the right-side of both bulb housings. Don't try to mirror this on the other side. Time taken: 30mins - 1 hour p/side. Plus whatever it takes to remove/install the headlights from the car. I will hopefully get a chance to check the beam this weekend at the shop when the windscreen gets replaced. I've got a before picture so will upload a before & after if I can get that image.

Cheers for this. I'll check if we have one at work I can nab and go from there. Backprobing is easy, but yeah, need the full story really. If it is $1-200 for an oscilloscope, I might just try the backprobing method and buying a spare CAS to cover me. They're also about $150-200 for these rebuilt units. Plus, I could probably sell it in Europe at a profit if I need to.

That would explain a lot re my findings. The code I got from NDS was “Code 11 cam angle sensor circuit (CAS) P0340” - should have specified. Also, should have mentioned the engine is stock. The starter motors were cheaper than I thought so ordered one anyway last night, will throw it in this weekend.

Had a strange one today at the track. Engine was hot - very hot, but luckily managed to cool it down for a good 5 minutes before this occured. I stalled the car when pulling out of the pit (amateur, I know) and the car wouldn't start. I thought the starter was dead and got some guys to help me push start the car, which was fine. After, I checked the code and it threw a P0340 for the cam sensor - which is where exactly? I replaced the crank sensor (CAS) not long ago, maybe 5k kms, with a rebuilt one here in Japan (could also be a dud). When searching for P0340, I really can't find much related to the 25det. Googling cam sensor just displays images of the crank sensor, I believe the names are used interchangably. I'm tempted to chuck a new starter in seeing as they're cheap and the car is at 255k on what I believe is the original. But basically, I'll be shipping this car back to Europe from Japan very soon. I have two weeks before my next (last) track session and would really like to not accidentally cook the engine if I stall it when it's hot. There's also the issue that the car has to be operational for the shipping company. So I ask, has anyone had this code/phenomena before and solved the issue?

In my experience the MAFs are pretty robust in these, mine is original and with 255k on it. I did re-sodler the joints at one point but that wasn't my issue, it was the CAS. I would even take a punt at getting a used original MAF from yahoo auction if mine was suspected of funny business - there's one right now at about EUR 50. You said your coils were splitfire, but how old are they? They will fail just like the OEM ones and many have 100k+ kms on them now. I thought splitfire went out of business a while ago? The parts GTSBoy mentioned earlier really shouldnt be too expensive. I went ahead and just threw those exact parts at the car for preventative maintenance - OEM coils/plugs/harness, soldered MAF, rebuilt CAS and Walbro - and, touch wood, it's running fine. All this stuff won't be so expensive and you should really expect to replace them anyway on a 25yr old car.

So here we are, two years later and I'm just clearing this as my OCD won't allow threads to go unfinished. Today, I finally got around to wiring the fuel pump from the battery. However, first, I tested the Walbro with the OEM loom, took it around the block and it worked fine, so went ahead with the battery direct feed anyway as I was there. The most relatable thing that's changed since I last attemped this was that there is no longer an immobiliser (relay) along the OEM fuel pump power line. Could that have caused this? beats me. Also changed since I attempted this two years ago: - Battery - CAS - Boost leak fixed (this had a slight impact on drivability - leaking from the factory boost sensor hose)

I replaced the fuel pump and had this issue before, just whacked the stock one back in - as it wasn't the problem I was trying to fix - and no longer had the problem. Why is your water temp gauge so high?

I had this issue - albeit less severe - during tight low speed corners and very, very, occasionally at idle. I could feel it through fast sweeping corners if the engine speed was low enough. My PS fluid was old - like piss, you could say - so I replaced it which essentially fixed the problem. However, the rack was leaking quite significantly so I replaced the rack anyway, as I'm in Japan and the racks are cheap. First port of call is to replace/top up the fluid.

Seen these in Japan, try yahoo auction

Thank you!

Does anybody know what oil I can use, and the quantity for the AC system/compressor only? The FSM says "use DH-PR for the compressor oil" other sources are saying PAG 100.

Thanks for the input. Couldn't find anything regarding removing the compressor in the HA section but it seems fairly straightforward. EDIT: got it. It's in the HA section of the Japanese manual for me, not in the english one.

Well here we are, a year later and my AC has depleted again. I refilled it back in Feb only for it to lose refrigerant a month later. Luckily, as recommended by others on here, I added dye this time around and, whilst using a UV light, have found traces of semen dye around the compressor connector. I'm going to get a rebuilt compressor whilst I'm in there, seeing as they're cheapish in JP. Now, my question is, how difficult is it to remove the AC compressor? any special tools needed? from looking at other cars I've seen you need to disconnect the pipe that runs to the cabin, then a couple around the compressor. probably the intake pipe too - engine is stock. Yes, yes I know, cannot vent it to atmosphere. I don't know the regs in Japan but it's probably incomprehendible anyway. The system is most likely empty by now as it's been over a month since the AC pressure switch was triggered.

As a Brit (Pom), the right of passage that is going to Amsterdam at 18 to nail your brain cells to the bottom of a canal scarred me. Going to Eindhoven (at 32), as you can imagine, was a much more serene experience. Ah perfect, cobble streets for my Japan-height car. It is a beautiful area around there, especially if you're lucky enough experience it in summer. With my one billion pictures of the car I always intended to set up a build thread but you know how it is, the car is usually broken or I'm at the track so that's where the time goes. I'll do what that other guy did, kinkstah* (or something like that) and do a backdated one. But you're right, those environments are wonderful; you should also add Norway/northern Sweden to your pipe dream.

I contacted Shaft about the one above and it comes as a full bumper only. For me, the issue with the URAS lip is that it doesn't fit well enough for my liking, plus everyone seems to run it here. If I can't find anything suitable before I leave Japan, I'll just do as @niZmO_Man suggested and make one. If you have more details on this car, I could trace it through the Japanese forums and try reaching out to the owner (providing it is a Japanese owner). I like this lip a lot. Looks BNR34 style, but exactly which one it is would be beyond me.