GoHashiriya

Exactly what @tsuokun said. Nistune isnt possible with the tight timeframe. Plus I'm of the camp that's too pussy to drive with ABS off. 17: ABS-TCS control unit circuit - Throttle control unit detects malfunction in the system. (open throttle sensor, harness, etc.) / TCS/ABS Control unit detects malfunction 44: ABS-TCS communication circuit - Malfunction (open/short circuit, etc) is detected in multiplex communication line between engine and TCS/ABS

Was out for a drive in Tokyo with a fellow member this past weekend when my ABS, TCS and Slip lights came on. We did a test, and yep, no ABS. Scanned the codes and got 17 and 44. Conveniently this has occured about 500kms after replacing the TCS motor on the throttle body; I've been plagued with a recurring code 17 and TCS motor failure for the past year, although it didnt really phase me until I realised I have shaken coming up in December and codes = failure. The TCS motor flap is still moving on startup and I'm hesitant to believe the replacement is causality, after all, it's just a plug and its operation (or lack of) never caused ABS failure before. All fuses are fine - checked visually and with a voltmeter - which then led us to the ABS system. As the ABS pumps and relays seem to be one unit and with used variants being two a penny on the auctions, I have taken a punt with a 2,000 yen (with warranty) replacement 47600-AA000. However, after some digging, I've come back with the following headf*ck: Part Numbers: 47600-AA566 Latest revision of the pump and about 200k from Nissan. This is stated as being compatible with the ER34 RB25DE, RB25DET plus Silvia S15 and Stagea 34. 47600-AA500 Currently fitted to my car, looks as though it has been replaced at somepoint. Historical info is limited although I can confirm it was available for Silvia S15 and Stagea 34. 47600-AA000 Came on the ER34 RB25DE, Silvia S15 and Stagea 34. I can find no reference to it ever being fitted to the ER34 RB25DET, although it did come on the Stagea RB25ET. I have three weeks to get this fixed and was really hoping to get a final trackday in for the year before I turn the car back to stock-ish for shaken. So, has anyone had any experience with these ABS actuators and can confirm the interchangeability? Or even better, anyone had issues with the ABS system and managed to fix it by other means? We can feel the motor give some kind of response with the car on. It's getting power. Car is running stock auto ECU.

You can likely just buy a generic once from Amazon - that's what I did, although originally for a different prupose. I also now have the door-surround trim coming away 5-10mm from the body. Initially I panicked thinking somone had tried to break in, but the other side is the same and there are no pry marks. Strangely, I hadn't noticed this before and I'm pretty meticulous when it comes to the car. There has been some intense weather recently and I'm starting to suspect this gave it the final release it needed to pull away. Does anyone know how these fix to the body? I tried to push my weight on it but it doesn't move at all. I have bigger car problems at the moment - as is usual - but will attack it before year end.

Just incase anyone ever goes down this rabbit hole. I contacted Mitsuba and got the following response, it's as expected: Dear Mr. Perry This is Mishima in Mitsuba. I'm sorry for replying late. Firstly, we apologize for the inconvenience, but currently we cannot help provide you with any design information and sell to anyone other than the vehicle manufacturer due to the transaction contract with the vehicle manufacturer. As you know, the authorized Nissan dealer do not sell these motors. We have no idea about it. So we apologize for not being able to meet your request. We would like to hope your kindly understanding our position. ミツバの三島です。 返信が遅くなり申し訳ございません。 まず、誠に申し訳ございませんが、現在は車両メーカーとの取引契約により 設計情報の提供や車両メーカー以外への販売ができません。 ご存じの通り、日産様の正規販売店はすでにこれらのモータの販売をしていません。 我々にはなす術がありません。 よって、ご要望にお応えすることができず申し訳ございません。 何卒ご理解賜りますようお願い申し上げます。 If you can be f*cked, get in contact with Nissan and then Mitsuba. I was requesting design information or a replacement. Of course I understood the likelyhood of getting this.

Not sure what you mean by "nice" but you can have my old AT shifter surround if you want, just cover shipping. This is provided I haven't binned it already. *EDIT: Whoops wrong car. Ignore me and delete this if poss.

So before I put the headliner back in I thought I'd give the sunroof motor a good workout to ensure it works consistently, and guess what, It opened and got stuck. It started exhibiting the same sort of problem as the second motor I bought. After a few minutes it worked - the sunroof closed - then it worked seemingly well for a bit and got stuck. Instead of pulling apart the motor I thought was fixed, I decided to take a look at the second motor. Tested continuity across the board, tested the switch (in the car) and it all checked out okay. That's when these two little buttons inside the motor got my attention. In short, bottom button pressed, sunroof opens, left button pressed sunroof closes. No buttons pressed, tilt function works (motor works in forward and reverse). The buttons are operated by this white gear, so it seems that the timing is off with the gear, or something is worn, not allowing the button(s) to be fully depressed at the correct time. What I can't seem to get my head around is how the motor switches between tilt function and sliding function, as the open (sliding function) button/switch must be both closed and open simultanously - only tilt or slide works at one time. As there seems to be no third input here. That's where the little copper spring may come in, although it really doesn't seem to move. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah I would think the same, all I did was use Amayama to tell me which models the part number was suitable for. Although, on my quest for a motor, I never did see anything which resembled it entirely. Nissan was a huge loss maker back in the 90s (possibly still is), perhaps things like this is why.

So, great news. Today I pulled the rack and "fixed" the sunroof. The issue with the binding mentioned a couple posts above was that the wind deflector arm hadn't been fastened to the rail correctly. This either occured when we first pulled the rack and reassembled everything super quickly to make it to a mate's BBQ (likely) or it was knocked by some other means. There was also some slight deformation where the arm fixes to the rail, probably caused by incorrect installation and then binding against the sunroof guide. The used motor I bought is still a dud, I'm using the original motor that my mechanic worked his magic on. The second motor seems to work intermittently, sometimes slides a little, sometimes tilts a little, but yeah, it doesnt work. I would actually like to fix this one to keep as a spare; so when I get time, I'll also take this one apart and see what's wrong with it. It does seem as though the initial fault was caused by the motor, then my d*cking around with it caused the sunroof to not retract properly. You won't be able to buy a new motor, Nissan doesn't stock them anymore, and the company that produced them - based near me in Gifu - seems to only deal with corporate clients. If/when I can dismantle the second motor to find the fault I'll post the result here.

420 you say? Have you tried a different strain?

Tried. Mechanic doesn’t have it as he’s not an AC specialist. Best course of action is to find an AC guy, or just come back in a few months and get him to check the pressure

We just topped it up with gas and it works fine. But that doesn’t rule out a leak. We haven’t found anything yet.

How perfectly, like fit in the factory sunroof opening? These things are seemingly discontinued also - unsurprisingly. But there still seem to be a few kicking around for sale online. Not cheap on the Japan sites.

Yeah, I've thought about this too. For me, this would be a back-in-the-UK kinda thing as I have the issue that basically no one has that they can't properly converse with body shops and subsequently be able to trust them. I do like the extra light that comes through from having a 20-odd kg scrap assembly at the highest point of the car though. 😒

I’ve seen those for sale over here too. The thing is, I don’t particularly like the idea of some guy I can barely communicate with cutting up the roof panel. So I should rephrase my question to: is there an option to fit a third party sunroof in the factory sunroof-spec roof panel without cutting up the OEM roof panel? Yep, OEM prices for sunroof components are at dumb prices. >20k yen for one of the pulley wires. It’s possible a factory 25yr old sunroof is better than a post-break-in damaged sunroof assembly. I’d go for it provided the local hoarders don’t bid into the extremes for it.

Haha sure. One of the guys here pointed out a complete 34 assembly in Aus but shipping was outrageous. So for me it has to be in Europe or Japan. FYI, there is an HCR33 sunroof for sale on yahoo auction for 10,000 yen: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s1041724665

I had to buy a harness that sits between the OEM harness and the aftermarket stereo. The adaptor harness had its own earth, perhaps its that. It should be a pretty simple thing to install.

From my understanding Japan is more like the US. When searching the Japanese sites there were posts encouraging you to DIY it with a can. Is my mechanic a qualified AC guy, probably not, but he's nice enough to speak with me in Japanglish and seems pretty honest, so what can I do.. Japan has tight regs but operates on an honesty-based system, sort of like a "you can do this, but don't do it". And guess what, the regs are loosely enforced. Engine oil goes in the trash which differs to the UK.

Is it possible to (not in a money-no-object sense) to get an aftermarket sunroof to fit the stock cut-out? I do wonder because I've been dealing with sunroof trauma for about 9 months now on my R34 and have always seen the aftermarket ones advertised. It would be great to get an aftermarket system that retains the stock glass. On a side-note, some of the sunroof parts from Nissan are discontinued. I've occasionally seen R33 sunroof assemblies floating around international auctions whilst on my hunt for an R34 one.

No, not that specific. I mean I applied 12v to it and listened to it click. Well, good to know I should be doing it that way for future reference. Just picked up the new relay from Nissan so the relay will get replaced anyhow. If no change, I'll just keep the old one for a spare. Also good to know. I'll try and look over the system for any leaks - from the front there is nothing visible but I realise it goes back toward the cabin. Are there any famed spots to pay attention to? I won't be able to progress with this until the weekend.

Sorry, I should have mentioned the relay has been tested (out of the car) and it seemed fine. However, I did read a post by someone in an earlier thread mentioning they tested relays, they tested okay, then tried a relay from another car which solved the problem.

Ordered a relay today (also arrives today 😀), along with a new pressure switch - it was cheap okay. Did the bypass-the-relay trick this morning and compressor fired up, had cold air, ran it for a couple minutes then shut it off just in case any damage would be caused. I did not notice the usual high-rpm adjustment, but it can be tricky given that the car was warming-up and I run an Auto ECU on a manual that's kind of all over the place around idle. Mechanic will switch out the pressure switch and re-gas the AC system this weekend. Im under the assumption pulling the pressure switch will release gas. Then we'll go from there. I bottled-it when it came to bridging the pressure switch as there were 3-pins and I didn't know which to bridge. Pin 1 was earth and then the other two went to the ECU.

I should mention that there is no change in engine RPM when the AC button has been pressed. I will try bridging the pressure switch if necessary once the gas status has been confirmed.

Hi all, I noticed last week that the AC stopped working, we've just come out of winter and it is most noticeable now. That said, how long it has been non-functional for is beyond me - last summer it worked fine. I didn't notice any issues up until December, then the car was rarely used over the winter. When I say not working, the green AC light illuminates but the compressor doesn't start. Blowers are fine. I've ran through the diagnostic procedure, nothing under step 2, I just get 20. No issues under step 3. Under step 4, it cycles through the different outputs, just no actual AC. I checked the the cabin air temp sensor next to the steering wheel, just in case I disconnected it when installing the alarm recently - it's fine. All fuses have been checked. I have tested the relay, it's fine - there is 12v to pin 1 and (I think) 3. However, the relay does not click when the AC button is pressed. Also, from prodding the compressor wire, there seems to be no 12V under any state. I'm guessing the ECU is not grounding the relay. My question is, what are the likely causes for this - no gas (unfortunately this is something I can't check until next w/e), or sensor? A little direction would help a lot. Japan is getting hot AF.

Maybe me. Transmission started whining after 3k kms at a track day. I used the factory-filled stuff for run-in, then changed to fully synthetic Syntrans "GL4+" 75W-90 (TAF-X) at about 800kms. When my new box comes I plan to just use the Nissan GL4 75W-85 consistently.

I managed to find a used motor and bought it just for peace of mind. Well, it didnt help at all, the issue still persists. This one seems to have different quirks, perhaps it's also a dud. I need to pull the rails out and test the switch. The issue is perhaps something to do with the sliding mechanism. This won't get fixed in a hurry because pulling the sunroof out and leaving the car with a hole in the top is a bit of a pain without a garage/secure parking.