itsforandres
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Posts posted by itsforandres
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hello, everyone! i was hoping someone with an r33 could help me out. whist working on the brakes the other day i noticed that the installers zip tied the front brake lines to what seems to be the dust shield. i would like to have these lines secured properly, but I am not sure where the bracket goes on these. i have the service manual, but the line drawings aren't exactly super helpful with all of the other components that are in the area, so i am hoping that with a few pictures i would be able to understand where these are attached to.
here's what i believe is the part that was removed:
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On 11/21/2023 at 11:21 PM, The Bogan said:
Pull the calipers for a rebuild, the full rebuild kits for Project Mu are expensive, or so says Google
You "may" be able to strip them and clean them up, but, you will probably still need new seals
Google says the pistons are steel, so probably rusty
thanks! i ended up calling project mu and they recommended a shop about an hour away from me. when i took the caliper to them, they found that there was a burr in one of the pistons. they smoothed it out, put some high temp lube on all of the pistons, and now the brakes are working great.
thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
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so, this happened again and i pulled off the wheels to take a look. the front driver’s side seems to be stuck and from what i see the lower piston(s) don’t seem to be working properly, based on the amount of dust i am seeing on that lower inner pad. does anyone have any experience with these calipers?
i am assuming that perhaps a piston is not moving smoothly as it should, but i am unable to find any information on how to take these apart to check the pistons. i am assuming the giant size 8 hex heads are the pistons, but wanted to see if anyone had any information on these. i figured i could clean them off and apply brake lube.
anyone know the torque specs for these? any tips?
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these are brand new project mu. i hope that’s not the case, but i’ll look into it. thanks!
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the other night i took the car out for a spin. after a while, i noticed the brake peddle was super stiff and i was hearing a clicking sound from the brakes when i was stopped. when i started to drive, it felt like the calipers were engaged and it smelled like pads, so i am assuming the pads were engaged.
this is on an r33 gtr. does the power steering system provide the vacuum for the brakes? does this sound familiar to anyone?
thanks in advance.
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Hello! I have a deli oil pressure gauge that is 1/8 PT, that was connected to a greddy oil relocation kit that used the same fitting. i just installed an HKS oil cooler kit, which also has a sandwich adapter. According to the specs it's 1/8 PT, but they don't seem to work together. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a conversion piece that is needed in order for this work?
according to the greddy website, their sandwich adapter is 1/8 NPT, which is strange that it would work without any issues since the gauge is allegedly PT, not NPT.
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I was actually able to get the information from BBS directly. The original LMs were made with a bore of 66.1mm, as they were designed for the skyline. The newer versions are bored out to 82mm and the PFS should account for this. I will update this thread when I get the wheels and am able to measure the PFS diameter.
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hello! i ordered a set of these for my r33 gtr. for the hub centric ring it comes with, all i see in the documentation is PFS for the bore size. the model i ordered is LM086, which has the following specs:
- 18x10.0
- 20 offset
- bolt pattern is 5x 114.3
- bore size = PFS
I have no idea if the hub centric ring that ships with this is going to fit my vehicle, since there is no actual size noted. does anyone know if the 'PFS' that ship with these will work, or do i need to order a set of rings separately? does the PFS that is included close the gap between the LM bore and the 66.1?
thanks in advance.
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On 4/14/2022 at 5:57 PM, joshuaho96 said:
If you have a weird thing about how you don't like the insane range of the 320 km/h Nismo meters and for some reason their coloring of the 8-9k range as yellow rather than redline I'm pretty sure you can just adjust the speedo calibration resistors and replace the gauge face with whatever corresponds to your desired calibration. You could make a 300 km/h speedo that way I believe like the Impul ones that were basically identical to factory other than the speed calibration change.
@joshuaho96 - it ends up working out, as the v-cam will be pushing me into the 8,800 range, once completed.
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thanks, @Duncan! i wanted to power them on just to get the bulbs in correctly. i am changing them to LED and if you don't get the polarity right, you have to pull out the dash and pop them out. again, i appreciate the input.
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hello! i see a lot of people on here have done the upgrade of the OEM speedo to one that hits 320km. is this a straightforward swap, like 1:1, or is there something else that needs to be done to ensure that it works properly. i have the speedo, and the 3-din that match (nismo white face) but wanted to get some input before i actually start this.
some questions:
- can i remove the current equipment and just plug in the upgrades and be done with is?
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is there a way to bench-test the speedo and 3-din module?
- the speedo seems to have a 2-pin plug on the back of the driver's side
- the 3-din has IGN and GRN marked
- can i just hook those up to a 12v power supply? my fear is frying these things.
- Is there a way to set the mileage on the odometer to match my current count? the current one is at about 148k and the new one is at about 28k
thanks in advance!
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thanks, @Duncan
i wrote to them and this was their response:
The rotors are a floating 2 piece type. In regards to getting ahold of more rotors, typically they would have to be ordered from Japan so the current standard of ocean freight wait times do apply.
Here is the extra information that you requested:
Total length : 282.8mm / Total width : 156.25mm / Total height : 72.3mm
Materials, production methods: Aluminium alloy/Forged
Surface finishing: Hard alumite with powder coating
Piston diameter: 41mm
Rotor dimensions: 345mmx32mm/355x32mm
No. of pads: 4Pads / 1 Caliper -
does anyone have any experience with the project mu forged sports 4-piston kit for the GTRs?
it's a front brake bolt-on kit, 355mm x 32mm
- forged aluminum
- 41mm piston
- 4 pads / caliper
from my experience with the brand in the past, they make pretty solid stuff, so i figured this would be a nice upgrade for the R33. anyone here have experience with these? the site search didn't really yield any results, just posts about brake pads, mostly.
cheers!
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@GTSBoy thanks! your responses cleared up a bunch of questions i had!
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On 1/2/2022 at 1:42 AM, joshuaho96 said:
I've been trying to source those tools and a spare wheel/tire as well, mostly because the rear carpet clearly needs the spare tire for support but also because a spare tire would be really good to have for whatever reason.
i bought the tools off ebay for a 1995 nissan sentra, as they appear to be the same. i got it for like 30 bux.
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On 1/2/2022 at 12:28 AM, GTSBoy said:
Behind the trim panel on the LHS rear corner of the boot.
thanks! i took a look and it’s obvious where the jack goes. what i don’t get is where the two tools that accompany the jack go. there’s a lug nut wrench and a hook that combine to lower and raise the jack. anyone know? i don’t want them rattling around in the trunk.
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hey, where would the scissor lift and tools go, if i had them? is there a place for them in the boot? i assume this info is in the owner's manual, but i don't have one.
thanks!
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@Dose Postman STFUUawesome, thanks! i think a lot of people would be interested in that data.
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On 12/8/2021 at 5:51 PM, GTSBoy said:
There's a lot more to how well a cam profile makes air flow into an engine than just the number of degrees and the lift. The lift curve around the seat in particular, the width of the peak of the lobe, the maximum accelerations imposed on the valve on the ramps.....all of these, and some more, are important. The shitty Jap cams do not go anywhere near doing the best on any of these. Kelfords have put some proper thought into all the cams they do for all engines. Cam specialist vs. Jap brand name selling specialists.
@GTSTBOYthank you! this makes much more sense. from looking at the shop manual for the cylinder head, it seems you can access the valve lifter, valve collet, valve spring retainer, valve spring, valve spring seat, valve oil seal, valve guide, valve seat, and the valve without removing the actual head. am i understanding that correctly?
is it recommended to replace the valve lifters, or just service them?
On 12/8/2021 at 2:25 PM, r32-25t said:Usually 9.15 is the limit before needing to clearance the head
@r32-25t thanks! much appreciated.
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On 12/7/2021 at 5:37 PM, GTSBoy said:
Using terms like step 1 and step 2 makes me think that you are looking at shitty old Jap cams, not Kelfords.
Just go to Kelfords RB26 page and pick the cam that sounds like it suits your needs.
they replaced 'step x' with '-x'. brilliant. other than that, is there a reason why you think these are superior in any way to 'shitty jap cams'? it would be helpful if you gave some kind of reasoning behind your recommendation, or at least tried to answer the actual question that was asked.
On 12/7/2021 at 5:58 PM, r32-25t said:Also unless you clearance the head you are limited on how much lift you can have
i assume the lift dictates if i will need to modify the cylinder head, correct? at what point does the head need to be modified? if the lift goes above 9mm?
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hello! i am looking into upgrading the cams on my rb26 in the future, and wanted to start to understand what goes into this. i did a forum search and nothing obvious came up, so forgive me if this is already discussed somewhere.
currently the engine is stock, save for (pertinent to this discussion):
- adjustable cam pulleys
- beefed up timing belt
- haltec ecu, not yet installed yet
- oil baffle plates
i am will be converting to a single turbo set up, and that turbo's peak output is reached at somewhere between 5k and 5.5k rpm. this would be for street use.
from what i understand, i should be looking at cams degreed at 272°. does that sound like it makes sense?
there are step 1 and step 2 variants of these cams. i am not sure what the difference is in the to variants, so if anyone can chime in on this it would be great.
i am assuming i would need to upgrade my valve springs as well. other than a tune, what would go into a camshaft upgrade? if i want to go with a v-cam upgrade much later, how does that affect i am doing now?
i understand that it's totally possible that i completely missed something major here, but that's why i am posting this: i am here to learn.
cheers!
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i know this thread is super old, but you just saved me a massive headache! thanks!
On 12/26/2009 at 8:21 AM, JMW said:If its like the ones in a 33, you need to push out the metal center first then the surround should just twist out.
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On 9/20/2021 at 6:56 PM, joshuaho96 said:
No, when I did this I definitely recall some of the fill bolts being smaller. I need to go check again but I'm pretty sure some of the fill plugs are 10mm square because some Nissan engineer was giddy at the thought of making people buy more tools, pretty sure in your last thread the ones with the lower torque spec are smaller. Also as Sean Morris' blog mentions just give up now and prepare to drop the front driveshaft as a part of the process, don't make your life miserable trying to avoid it.
I recommend using the right size socket because those things are usually very, very stuck on there. Hope you have an impact wrench or something similar so you don't round the plug or damage something.
can you supply a link to what you’re talking about? this is the first i hear of dropping the drive shaft.
On 9/20/2021 at 8:29 PM, Duncan said:They are all 13mm apart from the transfer case filler plug which is 11mm.
I also use a 13mm square drive rather than 1/2 inch. 13mm square is hard to find as single drivers though.
excellent! thanks, i will try and track these two sizes down.
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as the title says, are all of the drain / filler plugs 13mm? interested specifically on front and rear differentials, transmission, and transfer case.
i need to order the 13mm male socket, would like to understand if i need other sizes as well.
i know most people use the 1/2” drive, but that translates to 12.76, and i’d just prefer to get the correct tool for the job.
thanks, you gorgeous bastards.
front brake line bracket - R33 GTR Pics, please!
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted · Edited by itsforandres
add link to referenced yt video
ah, the nissan bracket company. let me see how i can secure the line to the strut.
thanks! i hadn’t heard of this company before. i’ll need to figure out the specs to build a line. i like this solution that has a single line and uses the oem mount to secure it, as the bbk came with two hoses for each side, which sounds like a potential point of failure. or, i can tie it to the coilover
really appreciate the recommendations.