Rand0b
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Posts posted by Rand0b
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On 5/8/2023 at 6:16 PM, Lithium said:
Any idea if some of the SX-R upgrades are going to flow over the to EFR range? The compressor map for the S200SX-R 7670 (/ S258SX-R?) looks like a cracker and could only imagine similar aero would make a worthy and needed update for the EFR7670:
would this be a good fit for a Rb25? what do you think it could make with a piston and rod motor? 600 on E?
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6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Those are the exact ones in my current shit box (now has a NEO motor).
I would assume these are a quality name brand in aus? No specs on them on the website they are the same price as just kelford drop in springs
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4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Definitely do valve springs, on my old non-NEO motor, with 1.7bar of boost I would get valve float (power went flat, sounded like a misfire).
Current motor has Performance Springs springs & Ti retainers. Was about $200AUD more to get the retainers, so why not? Lol.. now I can tell @GTSBoy I have Ti retainers.
These ones from golebys?
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13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Unless you're planning to turn 11ty rpm, there's no need to spend on jewellery like Ti retainers. If you're flush with cash, go ahead. It's good for the insta-likes.
Agreed, just was not sure if RBs had anything that would dictate recommending new base or retainer. Everyone recommends head drain due to oil pooling the head. Didn’t kno if there was a similar thing potentially for valve springs
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Hi all
Any reason not to get the Kelford Drop in springs for RB25DET NEO?
RB25DET NEO “Drop-In” Spring to Suit OEM Retainer
Any concerns with OEM base / retainer that would warrant replacement ?
RB25DET NEO Beehive Spring | Titanium Retainers
I know that Ti-retainers would be lighter / faster on valvetrain making it easier to move.
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agreed that is what I have heard for q45. So want to stick to something similar to stock 60-70mm max ( just want something better looking really ) overall for the greddy plenum.
Chequered tuning made 670 on e85 and said they were very surprised it did that with stock TB and they actually ran out of fuel pump.
Running Haltech 2000 (no DBW)
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Hi all
what options are there for RB25 Greddy / Freddy intake throttle body
must be cable throttle
q45 works
greddy adapter with stock throttle body
I have heard that stock throttle body is best for street driving and is not restrictive for ~700whp level
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On 10/18/2022 at 3:03 PM, Borci88 said:
Hey all, after some advice in regards to what turbo I should be aiming for to replace my aging -5s. If possible, I'm aiming for 500+rwkw without going 35psi, while hopefully still, being more responsive than my -5s. I haven't got a big flowing head and cams so I imagine I will be pushing the single turbo quite hard, however if possible I'd like to remain around the 25psi mark to meet my goals. Tell me I'm dreaming if I am..
My current setup is as follows:
Racepace RB28 bottom end
RB25 NEO Non-Turbo head with VCT
RB25 Neo Turbo STOCK Intake camshaft / HKS 260 degree Exhaust camshaft (mismatch I know)
No porting other than removing the humps in the exhaust ports, however the intake and exhaust ports are far smaller than turbo heads
-5 Turbos with dumps
3" HKS Exhaust with front pipes and decat
E85
Haltech Elite 2500
Approximately 435rwkw @ 23psi
I believe it comes on boost at around 4500rpm, unfortunately I don't have a dyno graph with RPM overlay and PSI.
As you can see, the head and camshafts are going to be the limiting factor and I'm not looking to change them at this stage.
I've been told that a GTX3582RS GEN 2 would be the go-er, which seems like is it roughly equal to a G35-900 anyway.. and even then, due to the small head, would I be better off with a .83 dual V-Band rear housing? Or go larger and get the 1.01 dual v-band rear housing? Pulsar now also sell a .85 twin scroll T4 as well.
To sum it all up, I THINK A G30-900 or G35-900 is probably the right turbo for my goals. I was thinking of using the SINCO T4 Twin Scroll mentioned by @Dose Pipe Sutututu as that's barely any more money than a 6booby and seems much better anyway. I assume a G30 isn't going to cut the mustard for 500+kw though?
For those who haven't seen, Racepace recently ran up a G35-900 with SIMILAR setup to mine and made 565rwkw on 26psi, I just don't know how laggy it is, although Racepace aren't known for building laggy cars usually. Might need to pop in and see what they say about it. (Pic attached is Racepace build not my car)
Keen to hear everyone's opinions on it as it's quite a rare combo of top and bottom end.
I think it would more depend on use case for the car
while this is a rb25 bottom it makes 700 on a g30-770 so most likely maxed out.
This would be a great choice for drift to light up the tires and quick torque delivery.
I think a g35-900 would be better suited for everything else as it would probably have a smoother power delivery
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Blitz or Otaku garage rb26 to rb25 intake manifold adapter
shipped US
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I know that greddy will work just wasnt sure if there was any other FFP that may be an in between. of the chin FFP vs the OEM / Plazman top half that may have longer runners
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On 6/8/2022 at 5:15 PM, Duncan said:
Assuming you have horizontal space in the engine bay, any of those replacements that don't use the lower factory runners would be OK, wouldn't they? I run ebay china spec in my rb25/30 stagea. Also I am not sure how you (or the market) define long and short runners, in those pics there is a big variation. The length in mine looks visually similar to your last pic.
Of course, there is no science in my response; the bottom end torque is very drivable in my setup but it is a manual rb30 not a 25, and I don't have back to back dyno runs with factory runners so it may be worse down low than stock.
BTW if you are pushing the engine you will want individual cylinder o2 or temps when you tune. You can see visually that there is no way that all of those different designs will end up with the same air flowing into cylinder 1 as cylinder 6.
Also, keep an eye on clearance to the clutch master (particularly if it is boosted) if you go with a cast FFP.
Agreed,
I guess I would consider long runner oem or rajab since they have their own runners and they bolt to the oem lowerplasman (top half cap?) Mid length (just a collector that uses oem lower)
and all the rest short runners
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Hi all
I have been searching around for an aftermarket Intake Manifold (FFP)
Wanted to see if there are any others out there as i have been searching for a few months and find a new one every week or so.
Overall Height will be the main concern (cant be much higher then Valve Covers). will be in 300zx Z32
Would like to stick with Long / Medium runner If possible. I may be able to do a cut and shut on the OEM one.
Plazman Top half
May be an option but could sit to high
Hypertune
short runner
CPC
Short runner
Greddy / Freddy
tried and true short runner
Speedtek Racing
Cast Aluminum 2 piece short runners
Rajab Racing
Top half, sits high currently only RB30 but in testing prototype for RB25 as of May 25
IMR Fabrication
plenum/runners welded to Oem flange look nice may be an option
China/ZERO Fab / ISR / NP Bosted
short runners
let me know if there are others out there that may fit the bill!
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On 5/24/2022 at 10:34 PM, hypergear said:
No, that was in T3 .63 rear housing
What if i ended up with a T4 Twin scroll Manifold, I was thinking the 45SS1, what size A/R .86 or 1.06?
or would you have any reasoning against it. Looking at the Dyno graph it does not appear to be to much different then the 43SS PRO. Obviously may be a bit laggier
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On 5/24/2022 at 7:20 PM, hypergear said:
T3 housing was used on that drift car and recommended to run on Rb25det motors.
t3 with .82a/r?
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On 5/24/2022 at 12:28 PM, hypergear said:
SS3Pro is a modern hybrid combination of a turbo. It came out of a mixed & matched wheel set during our R34 GTR turbo development. This one is very driveable with good power to boost ratio. It pulled 444awkws on 23PSI. Its then put on to an R33 drift car with a stock spec forged engine that pulled 456rwkws @ 24psi. All in by 4K
This sort of power band would be a good street car or a track car.
i was looking at this recently when i mentioned that turbo a few posts back.what size Turbine housing was used on the drift car?
if a T3 flange i was thinking of the SS3PRO
If a T4 TwinScroll i was thinking the 45SS1, what size A/R .86 or 1.06?
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On 5/24/2022 at 8:26 AM, Ben C34 said:
what size turbo did you use on the Focus?
2871r
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On 5/23/2022 at 6:58 AM, Chopstick Tuner said:
Mind me asking what you've owned/driven before this build since you say it's your first Rb25?
Just curious, as you've asked for inputs on whether your power goals are too much for a street Rb25, then kinda tried to tell them why you should build it for 700whp anyway then potentially dial it back to 500. That's a big drop and the components used to make 700hp safely are going to have drawbacks in a 2.5L, which won't be remedied by dialing back to 500hp nor will you see the benefits of them.
On 5/23/2022 at 6:58 AM, Chopstick Tuner said:Your injector argument is not the same, going from an 850cc injector to 1000cc is not going to change your power delivery like putting a much bigger turbo on than is necessary.
Built 2003 Ford Focus ~330whp
LS swap Nova ~400.
I asked for inputs because i know how both my prior cars drove and they were great on the street. the focus had a bolt on turbo kit and was super fun. both these cars drove different being v8 and a turbo 4cyl. I dont know how a RB drives or whats acceptable in this case.
I have a RB motor with a spun bearing i picked up. I only want to open this motor once so i upgraded internals because i was in there. Want to make more power then my prior cars. Of course.
the point i was trying to make here is i know down the line i am going to want more power. So i Get a turbo 6-700whp capable now. Dyno and hit 6-700 awesome great, Drive around at ~5xxwhp. why because i can and i want to learn the car and motor. i get bored 6 months later boost goes up and now in 6xx range. Now I am not worrying about selling a turbo and having to buy something new and spend another 2-3k, Hope i am able to keep the the manifold and downpipe ect. 5xxwhp from a 700 capable turbo uses ~75% of its capability and then when 6xxwhp ~ 90%.
If i came in asking about 9174 then i am out of my mind i wouldn't even use half of the turbos capability
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On 5/22/2022 at 3:30 AM, GTSBoy said:
the 7163 seem like it is the very sweet spot in the street turbo area. There's a slightly smaller more conventional one, the 7064 or something. The 7670 is bigger. Bigger than the classic GT3076 sort of sizing, perhaps verging into the GT35 territory. Higher power potential with the corresponding tradeoffs at the lower rpm range.
the GT3076 being tried and true this is where i started my comparison. But going to something BW with HP in the range between 3076 - 3582 since the BW having the Gamma-ti wheel and everyone saying transient power felt amazing , so i was looking at 7670 and possibly 8370 (which would get me closer to my goals) the precision 6062 but kept coming back around to the BW. Within the past week found the hypergear turbos atr43 : SS2 and SS3 / SS3Pro.
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On 5/22/2022 at 8:36 AM, BK said:
VP race fuel like VP 109 ron unleaded is a waste of money compared to E85. Just go flex fuel setup so you can run on pump unleaded or E85 all without draining tanks or switching tunes.
Flex fuel setup is what i am building the fuel system to handle, Just mentioning i am open to use race Fuel if needed.
On 5/22/2022 at 3:30 AM, GTSBoy said:Here's some important considerations wrt E85 and lesser E concentrations. You get almost ALL of the benefits of E85 at only half that (so, E40 - E45) territory. Those benefits being resistance to detonation, and outright power output. But, there's typically no such thing as E30 or E42.5 anywhere. So you end up having to blend that shit yourself. So there's no point in planning for power output at those E concentration levels. Just plan for E85 and 98ron, with flex tune to cover whatever happens to be in the tank at the time, and live with what you get. E85 is free power but dismal tank range.
Correct, I noted the Closest e85 pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. I will also get pump gas 93 (93octane is highest available in US) so overall power will be down if mix and could be e50, e30, e10 ect i am just making aware I could have a 1/3 tank of e85, and go fill up with 1/3 tank 93 octane,
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On 5/22/2022 at 2:56 AM, Murray_Calavera said:
I'm not trying to derail this thread, but I'm curious why you are talking about driving the car on e30 or e50? Surely if you have access to e85, you'd just run that all the time and only drive on 98 when you don't have access to e85?
dyno run would be on VP race fuel or e85 / e98, E85 is not easily accessible by me. Closest pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. It will also get pump gas 93 octane is highest avilable in US so overall power will be down if mix fuels e50, e30, e10 ect
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On 5/21/2022 at 11:46 PM, GTSBoy said:
I am not trying to argue
I am rebuilding a engine that needs a rebuild, I am opting to upgrade parts now since I don’t know what power I would want potentially 2 or 5 years down the road.
I’m agree on engine stress under load with added forced induction. I have referred to power delivery As to the wheels. I do not want a turbo to be 3psi 3k to light up 25psi at ~4k and all it does is spin the tires, that is what I am referring to as power delivery. If I can get that 6L pull feeling Hells yea I would want it all the time but I know I may need to make it linear to ensure proper traction.
so what would you say a good turbo would be?
e85 dyno into 6xxwhp
but still acceptable to drive on the street if not on e85 (e30, e50)
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On 5/21/2022 at 9:55 PM, GTSBoy said:
This makes no sense.
There is absolutely no point in building an engine to make big power on a dyno then not to use that power for the vehicle's primary purpose, and WORSE, to suffer the compromises caused by the big power potential, aall of which make the car objectively worse in its primary usage model.
This is called cutting off your nose to spite your face.
Here's the thing - the things you say about big boost + torque made early putting stress into a motor are true. But, they are not true at the power level that actually makes sense on the street. At this magical 300rwkW (and I don't mean magical in a sarcastic sense, I mean magical as in it is actually magical that 300rwkW works well in a street application) you are NOT making enough torque at 3000rpm to actually do the damage you're talking about. At this level you want to ramp the boost on as fast as you can, because area under the curve = acceleration. The only compromise you need to make is to perhaps moderate your boost ramp for traction reasons.
Think about a 2.5L engine making good boost at 3000rpm (and only getting better from there up). Compare same to a 5 or 6 L engine running NA, and tell me that you would not want the torque of the 6L engine ALL THE TIME in the 2.5. Seriously.
99% of people asking for injectors size feedback say the calculator said I need 850cc, do they ever say should I lower my goals to get the 750cc? what do most car guys say? , get 1000cc so you have room to grow you are going to want more power later on. It’s one less thing to purchase . That is what I am trying to accomplish. Finding something that has good street manners, potentially hit a number between 6-700whp on a Dyno
It could end up being Turbo A on e85 622hp maxed out on the dyno. Then running e30 on the street it’s more like a mid 500whp car and the turbo has fantastic street characteristics.
or it could be Turbo B on e85 689whp maxed out on the dyno. ends up being a low 600whp car when on e30 and has acceptable street characteristics for its overall powerI haven’t said 700whp+ At all times. I could drive like this forever OR could get bored in a year and decide only use e85 and now the car is at max effort And if I take it to track it will perform and I do not have to purchase a new turbo, upgrade injectors get a new tune ect
You said ‘tell me that you would not want the torque of the 6L engine ALL THE TIME in the 2.5. People have a low and high boost setting. Why wouldn’t you want to always be on high boost at all times if the car is capable to perform of that level? What’s the purpose of the low boost setting?
I don’t kno what you are referring to with ‘you are NOT making enough torque at 3000rpm to actually do the damage you're talking about’ I haven’t referred to damage. I have referred to power delivery with traction as the underlying item.
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On 5/21/2022 at 4:59 PM, WR33KD said:
Have you given thought to how much this is going to cost you. It’s all fine putting a $4k turbo on a car to make xxxhp but is it work it when a cheaper turbo will do the same.
These big turbo names are just wank factor for 300kw.
Next step is once you board of 300kw what’s nextYes I am prepared and understand the costs, I think There may have been a misunderstanding of my question and this should clear it up for all do note that I originally mention I would love to hit
6-700whp on the DYNO
i do not expect to be at this level for fun street use , I want to know that I can turn it up and I am not at my ceiling
dyno run would be perfect conditions on VP race fuel or e85 / e98, turbo can be nearly maxed out. E85 is not easily accessible by me. Closest pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. It will also get pump gas so overall power will be down if mix fuels are mixed e50, e30, e10 ect
looking for a turbo that I can hit. A 6-700whp on the dyno with boost being fast ramp 3-4,500rpm to hit 30psi. While on the street I could have e30,e50 / some mix of gas which if lower than e85 would have overall lower power output and I would have overall max effort rolled back to ~25psi with boost control being a linear ramp over 3-5500rpm -
On 5/21/2022 at 10:53 AM, Butters said:
See that's the cool thing about boost. Once you have it you can control it ...
Very easy to tame down a small turbo's power curve vs trying to get a big turbo to come on early enough for the car to be fun.
Agreed
This is a scenario of what I am willing to compromise with and see as acceptable 7163 is what a few have recommended. Example below
(7163) A 5psi :3k - 20psi: ~4k
(8374) B 5psi :3.5k - 20psi ~4.5k
(7163) if I am going to control boost to dial back a to make the power delivery more linear and hit target 20psi 500-750 RPM later so 20psi ~ 4,500 or 4,760 yes it would spool up quicker and range spread out over 1.5 a 1.75rpm
(8374) could use adjustable cam gears to dial back a few hundred RPM so it could start spooling 3300rpm and then hit 20 psi 4300rpm. Yes it would take away from top end a bit but the factor of the larger turbo would still make more power per psi would put me closer to my goals and get within the acceptable street manners/spool range ?
not thinking of going from a 7163 to a 9174
Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by Rand0b
saw this in a FB group
was interesting the SX-R smaller brother doing this
with the SX-R low inertia wheel I would hope it to be right at the 4k mark as you had mentioned Lith