kevboost7

Thanks everyone for the responses. I was able to put my intake plenum back on with the new coolant hoses and everything is working great! I now have a question regarding the 3 port mac valve and the difference between, that and a boost controller. Some Boost controllers i've seen has an external display with a knob that you can turn up the boost... Do I need a boost knob?

I'm a little confused about the fusible link on the battery. Is it possible to delete this thing? I know that it comes with 2 terminals that are basically looped together. Could I just cut off the terminals and loop it together and connect it? The reason i'm asking is because i'm trying to attach more things to the battery terminal but the standard connector that touches the battery terminal dosen't really allow me to attach more things.

i had the terminals on the correct positive and negative 🤣 cmon guys, im not that stupid haha I just had the terminals where i drew the orange circles and arrows, rather than being closer to the inside

Hey guys i need your help again. So today when i got home from work to diagnose this oil pressure sender unit, i connected a mechanical pressure gauge and got amazing oil pressure, which was good news because that means my engine is good. So i decided to put my hood back on (i removed the hood when i did the intake plenum job) and drive it. But when i got in to crank the engine, i lost electricity and that's when i noticed that the hood touches the battery terminals causing it to short out. After i made some adjustments to the battery location, the OEM oil pressure gauge started working again!! There is this big red connector thats an attachment on the positive battery terminal cable, does that have something to do with the gauges? EDIT: Nevermind, i am an idiot, i had the battery terminals facing the headlights, but i looked up a photo of how it was before and the terminals should be facing the other way towards the firewall.

Thanks for convincing me, i was actually looking at that and noticed the price wasjn't that much greater than the CAN gauge. I might go that route instead.

Hi guys, thanks for your help, but i think i got it sorted out. I'm going to buy a Haltech Can gauge. Install a oil pressure sensor to the greddy relocation kit, then wire it to my haltech ECU, and use the haltech can gauge as the display.

I have a question about the OEM oil pressure gauge. I'm assuming it's an electronic oil pressure gauge? If i were to install an aftermarket electronic guage by using one of the outlets on the Greddy Oil Filter Relocation device, would i have to install another oil pressure sender unit on it?

yeah that makes sense. I think i just gotta dig into it then, cause theres really no way of you guys knowing what i did wrong. I kinda jumped on here cause none of my friends know about RB's so im treating it as if you guys were my buddies so i wont freak out haha

im not sure, its the one i got from RHDautodesigns https://www.rhdautodesign.com/product-page/nissan-skyline-r32-33-34-remote-mount-oil-pressure-sending-unit-kit

Alright thanks guys, i was losing sleep over this. But i was thinking about it and when i started the car up, i forgot to tighten one of the auxiliary screws on the greddy oil filter relocation kit and oil was squirting out of it, so that means i do have pressure... I drew an arrow on the screws that i forgot to tighten And this is the remote mounted oil sender unit. In the photo i didn't have the wire plugged in, but i drew an arrow to where its not plugged in to the wire down at the bottom. There is a connector down there was a rubber boot on it. How do i diagnose the gauge? Should i try to put the old sender unit on and see if the new one was just faulty?

I just finished a intake plenum removal and installation and while I was at it, I installed a remote mounted oil sender unit from RHDautodesigns and a greddy oil filter relocation. after I put everything back, I started up the car and noticed that I wasn’t getting any oil pressure. The needle didn’t move at all. the car was running for a solid 2-3 minutes at idle before I noticed this. Engine still ran smooth though. I’m not sure how to diagnose or fix this issue. Anyone got suggestions for me?

Also, this is kind of a weird question, but theoretically, could i leave this line in place and cap it off at the end? (this is the line that would go up into the intake plenum) because once i have the intake plenum on, it will be impossible to add the vacuum cap. So this gives me the flexibility of using the stock boost controller. Since i still need to learn how to map my ECU to the 3 Port mac valve. I'm not sure if my explanation make senses.

@joshuaho96 Thanks man, i'm all the way on the other coast in North Carolina. I wish i was in cali though, you guys have better weather haha. But thanks for the response. I'm gonna try to do everything the right way and use the correct size hoses. One last question, where do i connect the 2 wires from the 3 Port Mac Valve? Would i connect it to the stock boost controller?

i noticed with the silicone vacuum lines, they are often too small in diameter for the hoses, so they don't even fit. You sure that the hose clamps are necessary? cause they feel pretty snug already.

Got it. Thanks so much man. You have no idea how much i was scratching my head at this earlier when i was in the garage. One last thing, i purchased these silicone vacuum hoses. You think they will be okay under the plenum? https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/products/hps-quarter-inch-red-high-temp-silicone-vacuum-hose-tubing-coolant-overflow-tube The reason i'm asking is that they aren't reinforced like the new silicone coolant tubes i got. I'm just not sure if it will affect any performance or not. Additionally, if the diameter of the vacuum hose that i use 1mm too small, is that going to be an issue?

@joshuaho96 thank you for the response. I did see that you answered my question on reddit, but i didn't know how credible it was, since it was on reddit haha. I have a few more questions. The first one might be a dumb one, but how do i cap the vacuum line on the coolant/vacuum pipe? I'm assuming that you are referring to this pipe. Can you double check my drawing to see if i got this right? and on the intake plenum, i would connect this line to port 3 on the mac valve? because this line would originally go to the "capped off" line on the water pipe. And then lastly, would this already be capped off? or would i have to do this myself?

Hello everyone, i'm fairly new to the tuning/modifying scene and just picked up a r32 gtr. I purchased a 3 port mac valve for boost control and i have a haltech platinum pro ecu that i haven't installed yet. Right now, i have the intake plenum off as all my coolant lines are rotted so i replaced them with silicone hoses. I figured i'd get some other stuff out of the way, but i'm a little confused on the boost controller and where i should hook it up. I see diagrams on the web of people saying that i should connect it near the back of the engine for boost source. However, i still have the factory boost selonoid. Is it possible that i can just replace the factory one with the boost selenoid? And if so, which one is the in and which one is the out?