
AdiR34
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Gender
Male
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Location
Colorado, USA
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Interests
Skylines, of course. And snowboarding.
Profile Fields
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Car(s)
'99 R34 25GT-Four
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Real Name
Adi
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Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power. I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp. Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
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Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
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Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.
AdiR34 replied to AdiR34's topic in General Maintenance
Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars. Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue? Thanks for all the info so far guys. -
Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer). - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct. - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced. - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank. Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
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Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.
AdiR34 replied to AdiR34's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still! -
Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.
AdiR34 replied to AdiR34's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock. Thanks again! -
Hey y'all, had some bad ball joints in my tie rods, so figured i'd just replace both inners and outers. Went with the high-misalignment system from GKTech. My car's lowered so figured why not. M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod High misalignment S13 240sx/S14/S15/Skyline tie rod ends (12mm/14mm) Welp, took over a week to get the job done, but finally did. Took it on the maiden voyage today and... - The OE boots do not sit properly on the new inner tie rods - If you look at the photo in the link above, new ITRs are basically threaded all the way through the length of them, so best I could do was tighten the boot down with a screw-down hose clamp onto the ITR's threads. - There is a "whoosh"ing sound every time I turn the steering, seems like it could be coming from the air moving into/out of boots. Concerning, bc it'll likely pull in nasty shit from the outside when I turn... namely thinking of moisture. - Looking at the rack from the back of the car, under it, the left tie rod is straighter than the right. Right droops down a bit. - My alignment is way outta wack, that's expected. Taking it to get an alignment as soon as I can. - The big thing is that the steering isn't really "springing" back like it used to. Wondering if there's something tied to pressurization of the system that I managed to f**k up. This was supposed to be a 20 min job... why doesn't anything ever go right with these cars?
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R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?
AdiR34 replied to AdiR34's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Thanks guys, toruqed down to 65ft-lb, or 88 n-m. Now have other problems, will chronicle in another thread. You guys are the best, thanks for all the ugga duggas. -
I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
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ENR34 - Inner Tie Rod is unique part! Replacement?
AdiR34 replied to AdiR34's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered. Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends). -
Hey y'all, So i went to replace my outer tie rod end and it looks like my inner is cooked as well. Problem is, the inner tie rod's part no seems to be completely unique, it's not the same as in the other Skylines. It's 48521-23U25. This is NOT the same as the GTTs or GTRs. If you look online, only place I can get them is Amayama (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/48521aa325), but given that the "quantity available" is listed as ">1," it worries me that lead time on this will be infinite. Wondering if any other ENR34 owners have found replacement inner tie rods that work and are readily available? Are tie rods not that deep and easy to interchange? I'm in the USA, so if anyone else has found em, LMK! Also - it looks like this part for the Leaf is the same number, except there's a 0 added right after the U. Does this mean anything of value or are they completely different parts? 48521-3U025 - Inner Tie Rod 2007-2014 Nissan | Nissan Parts & Accessories Online
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Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends. The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR. Hope this helps!
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Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!