rocketboy

Ultimately I would just get a new clutch, however, I have just been made redundant, and haven't found amother job yet so i have to be very careful with my $$. I may go for the organic full disc as this is around NZ$150.

That's good news! Was yours the same clutch? Any explaination as to why it did it? I have launched harder previously, just thought it was weird to do that. Cheers.

Ok, Friday before last I took off from work and gave it a bit of boot from a standstill, the clutch woudn't disengage. I managed to baby it home and a few days later got the gearbox off and found the clutch plate had stuck/semi melted to the flywheel. See pics of worst puk and friction material left on flywheel. I sent the clutch away to be looked at by exedy and they basically said it's not a warranty issue, but essentially abuse. There apparently wasn't enough free play in the set up as well. Wether this was part of any of the issues I don't know. The guy at Exedy said it should be fine to put back in as nothing was bent or damaged. I asked wether the small amount of friction material missing would be a problem and he said it would be fine. My problem now is do I take his word and re-install the clutch, but maybe risk the same thing happening, or do I change the clutch plate to a new but the same unit, or go the less hardcore organic full plate? It hasn't been raced since original installation and I don't do burnouts, just the "enthusiastic" drive here and there, otherwise it's a daily driver with 200rwkw and 12,000k's on that Exedy clutch. I'll probably whip down to a local clutch specialist for an opinion as whats best to do once the clutch is back in my hands. Oh, and the pics of worst clutch puk and flywheel and pressure plate. Flywheel - Worst clutch puk/friction pad - Pressure plate -

The organic should be fine for the power your running, I had an Exedy 5 puk HDB in mine and it wasn't too undrivable at all. It did however toast itself and semi melt itself to the flywheel the other week. Thats after 12,000k's and apparently there was no free play. The kit will come with a thrust/throw out bearing, which is the one causing your noise I think. It is the one that the clutch fork pushes against the pressure plate. The sqeak is most likely where the fork pivots off the pivot ball inside the bell housing. carefully add grease to the pivot ball, don't get any on any clutch component or flywheel. Probably a good idea to have the flywheel machined at the same time.

I use Autosol to polish acrylic, so I'd expect it to do a good job on headlights too. May even be less elbow grease than car polish. Also, Maguires do a plastic polish/restorer which may work easier. Great tut! Must have saved peeps lots of $$.

Legend!! Many thanks, I had been looking in this (driveline/transmission) area. Looking forward to using my Facom torque wrench again. Now to sort the stuffed Exedy clutch... Thanks again Gregors!

Hi all, just pulled my gearbox out from my S2 R33 25t. I did a massive amount of searching to try figure out what could be wrong with the clutch. Along my searching I'm sure I came across a post that had the different torque setting for Flywheel, clutch plate, bellhousing bolts etc. I forgot to copy paste and save or bookmark the page. Can anyone point me in the right direction to the thread or even give me the required torque settings for my car. Many thanks.

I think most people just pull the bulb out from behind the dash.

Not sure if I understood correctly either, but this may help... I run 225/35 19 on an 8.5" rim front, 265/30 19 on a 9.5" wide rim rear. This is on an R33, but I think the clearances are similar. Offset is +25 on front and rear. I had to have the guard lips rolled to prevent rub and have no rubbing issues. I doubt you could get an offset that sits any further out to work comfortably unless the R34 has more clearance under the guards.

Only a year later, but finally I have a few pics of my calipers. I did 2 reasonable layers of the orange Metalcast, then another 2, maybe 3 layers of the yellow to get the dirty asian gold I wanted. I am extremely please with how they came out. I sanded the logos back carefully and brush painted them red with some left over Duplicolor caliper paint in a tin. To finish everything off nicely, I polished the heads of the pad retaining bolts so the calipers look the biz, though there isn't a pic of this.

Thanks guys, I should have the T1R's on the car soon (hopefully next couple of weeks) and will post up how I find them compared to the Sportmaxx I have been running. I'm still miffed as to how/why these tyres cracked in the first place. I regularly pump my tyres with a bike floor pump to the suggested pressures so it wouldn't have been a pressure issue. And theres no way someone has cut them, so they must have just been a faulty batch or something. Anywho, good to hear they're quite, looking forward to seeing how they go. Cheers again, Richie.

Thanks for your analysis. The problem is finding a tyre readily available in the size. I can get the T1R's a bit cheaper than the Dunlops, and really don't want to wait ages to drive the whale again. I have just removed the HICAS so I'm not sure if I'll notice much difference between the two tyre, but I think I will give them a go for now unless something else is available. Goodyear F1's weren't available, Hankook K-104's were, but would rather something a bit better. I'll probably give the T1R's a shot as the car is street driven 99% and being the old man I am, don't fang it too often. Thanks again. Rich

Hey man, I may have a P9 combo avail if you were keen on it. It's the older model silver one. AFAIK it is the same as the newer P90. The P90 may have a newer CD mechanism and obvioulsy the black/dark colour. I have been running a P9 combo for the last few years and absolutely love the fantastic SQ these units put out. The fine tuning is a control freaks dream. Anyway, flick me a PM and I can get more info for ya if need be. The unit is over here in NZ, but no major to get it to you.

Please do! Thats kinda what I was thinking. But if you can elaborate will help me make a decision to wait ages for th Dunlops or just get th T1R's and get the whale on the road sooner. Cheers!

I realise this. That is why I am asking for a comparison from anyone who has experience with both tyres. I'm forking out $4-500 per tyre and any feedback if anyone has any is what I am after. I have done searchs both now and when I originally bought my dunlops, and found no direct comparisons between the two.

Hi people, as the title suggest, I would like to hear from anyone who has used both of these tyres and can critique them so I can decide what to do. The story: I took my rear rims into my local tyre place to have the tyres swapped over due to a small amount of camber wear (tyres are 265/30 19 Dunlop Sportmaxx). As I loaded the wheels into my van I noticed the inner sidewall of one tyre had two long cracks/splits/cuts that went around the shape of the tyre. Now the tyre shop is looking after me and said they will replace it for me. Unfortunately the same tyre is not available in NZ and isn't even on a ship so could be potentially 2-3 months away ( I waited that long for these tyres originally). Now in NZ, we have to have a matching tread pattern between left and right on the same axle. So... My options are to wait 2-3 months (potentially) for the same tyre to arrive in NZ, or get a 2 Toyo T1r replacements. I have been more than happy with the grip in both wet and dry conditions with the Dunlops. I am hesitant to go Toyo as the quality may not be up to par with the Dunlops. However, I know a fair few people rate the T1R, so no doubt it's a good tyre. So in conclusion, does anyone have direct experiance with these two tyres to give a fair comparison between both of them. Ideally I'd like to hear from people with similar sized tyres, but really, if anyone has had experience with both and can help me make my mind up would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Richie

OK, I haven't read the whole thread as it seems to be a bit of a flame war. Anyway, my 2c worth: I have been running 19" rims as follows: Brabus Monoblocks in 19x8.5 front - 225/35 Dunlop Sportmaxx tyres, 19x9.5 rear - 265/30 Sportmaxx. All wheels have an offset of +25 The car is an R33 lowered on Tein NA shocks. Now, I found the heavier rims do make a ever so slight change to accelerating and braking. It is only barely noticable, but it is there. It's more noticable when braking, this is on old fluid and standard pads/rotors. I am currently upgrading my brakes, pads, fluid, rotors. So I should see a vast improvement in this department. I would assume that the larger rim with more metal would weight more than say a 17" and 18" rim and therefore increase the rotating mass which would make it accelerate and brake this little bit slower. Some may say this is dangerous as it is impeding maximun brake performance. But realistically, my car out brakes many other performance cars from alternate stables and still brakes extremely well for crusty old fluid and boring standard brake pads. What I noticed with ride quality suprised me. The ride is only a little harsher than the standard rims. I am just as comfortable on the road as I was with the standard rims with the exception with pot holes and the like. With the wider tyres and an offset that pushes the wheels to gain maximum track, I found a huge advantage in the cornering stakes. Holy cow, the turn in is so much sharper and responsive. Cornering stability has improved a lot. Of course some of this will be to do with the low profile nature of the tyres and their stiff short side walls. So overall, I am a lot more confident in my whale in the twisty stuff. Launching suffers a little with higher pressures in the tyres, and camber caused by the car being lowered a fair amount. But if I were to drag race seriously, I wouldn't run 19's now would I! Conclusion - Pure performance, 17's would be my choice for the track. With similar widths and offsets I am currently running on my street 19" rims. 19's aren't affected in the performance arena nearly as much as the nay sayers say. Ride is still comfortable and so long as you get a nice rim, they look good on a larger car like a Skyline. Don't get me wrong, so do 17's and 18's, but some of the bagging is ridiculous. Lets save the bagging for chrome wheels. Just kidding. Buy the best wheels you can afford, as well as tyres! And get something that goes well with your ride to asthetically compliment your pride and joy.

Crossfiring your tweeters - passengers side firing to driver and vice versa is common way to get reasonable good sound without fluffing around too much. I have also pointed tweets towards windscreen in an R32 of a friends and had good results using the windscreen to reflect the high frequencys off. Basically, if you are looking to get the absolute most out of your setup, play around with different mounting positions as possible. I have kick mounted tweeter/mids also and find the tonality is usually better as well not having speaker seperation -e.g. high hat sounding like it's coming from head height while the kick drum sounds like it coming from the floor area. The downside is they can be blocked by feet, kicked unles mounted well, and you generally have a lower sound stage. You can overcome this to a certain degree by running time alignment which delays sound to the near speakers. If you don't want to do much playing/testing. I'd suggest you mount them in the door sails and cross fire them. Good luck!

May be way too late for ya. But I just picked mine up today for my 25t. I believe they are a Nissan only part, so you will have to go to your Nissan dealer. I paid NZ$150 incl GST for two. I think thats on the cheap side as I have heard of people paying $100+ per ball joint. They come in the ball joint only, so no need to buy tie rods. Hope this is of some help.

Most reputable brands will sound fine. I have two audiophile quality Phase Linear Aliante that sound fantastic. Funny thing is, the box that is recommended for them from factory is supposed to have a port about 350mm! But most people run them in sealed enclosures with great results. Flat piston woofers have been around for a while, so you shouldn't have any problems with them, again, stick with reputable brands.

How do ya know which ones are the track wheels? Are they the 18x8 wheels? Or is there a specific lightweight version? Cheers and sorry for the thread hijack.

I use an old damp t-shirt to get the dust off, then go over it with Armourall type spray vinyl/plastic cleaner/protector stuff, again, using an old cotton t-shirt. It comes out pretty mint. I don't like to use protector that makes vinyl look real wet and shiny, I usually go for a product that gives a semi-gloss type finish if ya get what I mean.

I'll definatley post pics, although probably won't be this weekend as I have the wrong size rotors for the brakes and need to swap for the correct ones.

ok, my bad. Can says "orange" I feel pretty dumb right now, hopefully the calipers will look asian gold, cos thats what I want them to come out like.

Will 32mm width rotors work ok on a S2 25T? I think I may have been given R32 GTR rotors, which are a bit thicker than 25T ones, which AFAIK should be 30mm thick. I'll probably take them back, but it'd be good to know if the bolt up and work ok anyway. Cheers, Rich