rocketboy

Most 3-way 6" speakers are crap IMO. There is no way you can get a good tweeter,mid,mid-bass in a single 6" driver, which is what a good 3-way should consist of. Unfortunatley they usually come as 3 seperate speakers and are high end expensive units. 6" 3-ways you buy are generally super tweeter,tweeter,mid/bass. Which IMO is inferior to a good dedicated tweeter,woofer combo co-axial (tweeter mounted in middle of woofer). Try to go for a good 2-way both front and back, preferably with an adjustable tweeter mount so you can swivel/aim the tweeters to get the best sound possible out of the factory locations. You can turn the rear speakers down via the headunit fader so most of the music comes from the front ( ya don't go to a concert and stand back to the stage! ). The rears are good for ambient feel, but should definatley be turned down a fair whack, when you have passengers you can just turn them up again. R33 have 6" factory fronts and 6.5" rears, pretty sure thats right, somebody correct me if this is wrong. So you should be able to fit speakers in fairly easy. Hope this is of some help.

Since were on the topic, this is a pic of my R33 boot I did myself for an audio comp recently. 'Scuse the unbrished microsuede! It was supposed to be a quick install, but I think a full on fibreglass one would have taken only a little bit longer. Anyways, this is being overhauled shortly for a better show install. B) *EDIT - Sorry for the thread hi-jack fredzz, your car looks mean man, lovin the Skyline symbol!!

The best 4" co-axials I have installed are Infinity Kappa. Very clear and ballanced sound. Definatley be worth checking out.

Cheers heaps guys, will check out some of these stores hopefully. Dunno if I'll be buying much though, as I'm on holiday from NZ. Bringing back a couple of amps might be a pain in the ass.

Hey, I'm in Adelaide for a week or so and would like to know the better car audio and performance parts shops to visit. If you guys can point me in the right direction with stores and address's would be primo Cheers

You'll be able to, I'm just recommending you use larger cable to the distro block, then have 4g going from distro to amps. It's to minimise voltage drop along the length of power wires so your amps are working with maximum current available.

Yep, thats pretty much what I did with mine. The R33 have a large access hole that you can utilise to get your arms in and apply SD to the outer door skin (inside of outer door panel), this stop a lot of the large flat surface metal from resonating and help produce clearer and crisper notes in the mid/mid bass region. I also cover my access hole with 6mm MDF then SD'ed over that when doing the inner skin.

True true, forgot about those! Lined mine with sub box carpet and glued some on the metal hooks that sit at the top of the door, worked a treat.

If you wanna learn a bit about car audio, especially SQ - sound quality, go and do some searching on www.nzicemag.co.nz should help you out lots. Be warned though, search first, ask second:-) There has been a bit of debate about SQ recently. Ideally a car would run a 3-way front and sub. Thats Tweets, mids - say 4-5" speakers, mid woofer - 6.5-8" speaker. Then one or two subs, whatever takes your fancy. Your sub doesn't 'reverb' to get sound, it actually plays a portion of the sound spectrum, ie deep/low bass in music. Usually from 50-80hz and below. Paramount in getting a really good sounding system is installation. I can make my average joe speakers outperfom some very expensive speakers because mine have been installed well, ie custom pods/baffles, fully sound deadened doors/panels, tested speaker placement, proper wiring, quality equipment. Custom sub enclosure to sub woofers recommended volume. Seriously I could write a fair few pages on details of getting the most out of your system, but go have a look at above site.

You'll be fine with a something around 100x2 WRMS as above. Be careful when buying as marketing always see's amps advertised as there 'MAX' rating which is useless in the real world, it means nothing but a number on the packet.

You can fit 'em in, but I would recomend to dump em for some 6.5 or whatever the factory size is as 6x9's are a good comprimise for getting bass without wanting a sub. You have 2 subs so I wouldn't worry about trying to fit 6x9's. If you do however you may need to bend/cut the parcel tray, which I definatley wouldn't recomend. I'd runn 4g for each amp to a distro block, then 2 or 1g to the battery. Looks like you'll be getting some juice going into your system. Don't forget to fuse it correctly as close to the battery as possible.

There are a lot of different brands and types of sound deadening product available. Over here one of the cheapest and most value for money is a bitumen based product made by Bostik. It's about $100 for 10 500mmX500mm tiles. You heat em up to make em soft and flexible them stick to the inside of your panel as there is a peel away sticky side. Go ask your local panel beater or hardware store if they have anything similar. This can make a hell of an improvement. Also check wires and lock/switch cables aren't rattling, zip tie and cover with sponge/foam to prevent rattling.

Yep. But splits in the back for rear fill/passengers will work fine. Either mount the tweeters on the rear parcel tray reflecting off the rear window, or if you can fit, hide them under the factory grills with the mid.

I'm not sure if you have it over there, but Bostik Automotive Sound Deadening panels are a very good bang for buck alternative. Iver here it is about $100nz for 10 x 500mmx500mm sheets. I'm pretty sure that the fusion stuff is this just rebranded. I'd rate it as good as brown bread.Dynamat is better, but maybe 15-30% better for about 400% price increase. As has been said, sound deadening your vehicle will make a VERY noticable difference in road noise and getting rid of rattles/resonance from your speakers.

Should fit. The factory ones are that size. You'd have to make sure the mounting holes line up. My bet is that they will.

Couldn't agree more. Dunno about over there, but Optima yellow tops can be had for around $400 here in NZ and Orbital Blue tops are about $340. By the list of your gear, I don't think you would need to go to these extremes, but they are good batteries. Maybe something like a Champion 500cca or similar would do the trick. From memory the model is something like 125L or 126 maybe? Deep cycle batteries allow you to run the battery flat and recharge them many more times than a 'normal' battery.

Not quite sure what your saying...do you mean your amp has only one RCA input, not a pair?If so, using just the left (white) side of the RCA output should work fine. If the headunit sub-out is a dedicated sub-out ie. not a non fading output, this should be ok.

To get the A pillar trim off (4 door may differ slightly): unscrew passenger strap/handle by using a small flat head to pop the screw cap/cover.Unnscrew with philips driver. pop B pillar trim out where it meets A pillar trim.the A pillar trim goes underneath so you need some room to allow it to come out. Pull A pillar trim out at top of windscreen, there are about 3 maybe 4 clips going from here down to the bottom of windscreen.Work your way down the trim pulling as close to clip as possible, they will be pretty tight, but I have never broken a clip or the trim. Once unpoped swing B pillar end towards the middle of the front seats and lift windscreen end up and out. Be careful not to break any wires though.From memory the factory tweeters are mounted onto the trim panel. From memory the factory tweeter cover is easily removable. I can't remember how as it has been 4 years since I had my one with these mounts. After taking A pillar trim off it should be fairly easy to see how the grill comes off.

The square on the A pillar is a factory grill with a factory optioned tweeter underneath it. I had this in my old R33 sedan. There is bugger all room behind it to mount most aftermarket tweeters from component sets. But I would suggest trying your tweeters in different postions to get the optimal sound. I have been into SQ for quite a few years and would have to disagree about mounting tweeters in the kicks. Well if it does not yeild the best result from your speakers. I have an S2 R33, initially I mounted the tweets in the kicks, along with angled pods in the doors ( hiding under the door trim ), but I found the soundstage fairly low, mid steering wheel height, and I also found the steering whell blocked a lot of the highs coming from the drivers side. Legs also can get in the road to block highs. I played around with mounting points and came up with them in the bottom of the A pillars firing INTO the windscreen. I was suprised at the lack of speaker seperation as well. I am very happy with how it is sounding now - wider, higher and clearer.

Just leave factory grills on.Your new speakers underneath will be sweet.Factory grills will look heaps better too, one of the doors has a curve in the grill.

Hey all. My sunroof jammed on Saturday.Drivers side doesn't want to slide, passenger side still moves, but only a little as the other side doesn't move. Can anyone help with how to fix sunroof? I have pulled most of the roof lining off to assist repair, but I can't get back by the rear windsreen of it off, seems to be clipped in, any help on this would be choice too. Cheers. Rich

You can relocate the fuse box to behind the battery, I have a large Exide Orbital battery in my R33 and it fits the fuse box behind it, just! That gives you extra room.You could also reloctae the hicas if ya wanted.

Basically C_dawg, i saying you might be overloading your amp, and it is going into 'protection mode'. Maybe give amp details, model etc, and how you've wired it all up. Do this after you have checked all speaker wires for a short.

I have a S2 R33 with an HKS ssq.I have no problems with it.There is also an HKS EIDS ( idle stabilizer ) piggy backed to the ecu, so this helps idle issues. Other than that, there is a adaptor in the BOV to make a flutter sound, this is not wastegate flutter ( i assume this is what you are concerned about. ). I am unsure as to the cause of wastegate flutter, I assume a plumbback would not incur this, but I could be wrong, I assume a plumback will go before turbo so shouldn't affect WGF. I have no issues with my turbo, I t has had the BOV installed for the 1 1/2 years I have owned it. Sorry not to be of more help.

who are you asking? if it is me, the tweets were fired across the wind screen, sorta like a reverse crossfire setup, so the music from the tweets was pretty even.A lot less biased to one side compared to having them pointing to occupants. That article is extremely infomative, great for people wo are starting to get into car audio hard out.