rocketboy

Thats kinda strange, cos I have a can of Metalcast Gold colour sitting in my garage ready to go onto the calipers!?

Depends what subs you go for and what you want out of a particular setup. If you want good strong low end, then I'd suggest a 15" I have found 15"s to produce better low end in almost all comparative models. Some people have said 15"s aren't very quick in transient response, I have never had any proplems with them sounding "slow".Apparently Image Dynamics IDMax subs go way low for their 10"s and 12", although they do have a 15" in that range as well. Personaly I would run a 15" with a rating of about 500-600wrms and run it with about double the power for overhead. Just make sure you set gains carefully if you do this.

Oh, genuine gonna be hard to find man. I spent about 3 years looking for my front lip. The bars aren't to hard to come by over here in NZ, but lips are hard to find. It was 2nd hand, and after I had a good inspection, I realised it had been repaired previously - very poorly. So I fixed it up and had it painted , love the look of it, it was so worth the wait. I also priced a genuine new one from Nissan - around NZ$1300 = ouch. Good luck with the hunt man.

Prob too late, but for your info... Looks like the sub is a dual 2ohm voice coil model. This will limit you to amps that are capable of running at 1ohm. 2ch bridged with the 1ohm option, amp will see a 0.5ohm load, most amps will not run at this and you could experience with the amp going into protect mode due to short circuit or thermal protection modes. A mono will need to be 1ohm capable if running the voice coils in parallel (1ohm option). If you choose the 4ohm option, you may not be getting the most out of the amp from a mono. Most monos flow decent amounts of more power when the resistance is lowered to 2ohm, or if capable 1ohm or less. A 2ch amp would work, 1st channel to one VC, and 2nd channel to the other. You would go off the rms rating for the amp runnig with a 2ohm load which would be more power than running each channel with a 4ohm load. Or you can wire the coils in series and run the amp bridged. Check which configuration would give your sub more power. The GM-5300T will do the same power in either wiring options - 380wrms. It will give more power than the 7300 as the mono is not 10hm stable and puts out only 250wrms at 4 ohms. Out of the two the 2ch would suit this sub best. The sub is rated to take 400wrms, the GM-5300T puts out 380wrms. So you should have plenty of power to get a good amount of volume out of the sub. Remember, if you want the best out of your sub setuo, have a box of good quality and volume matched to your sub. Hope this helps people to understand the various VC options that are out there nowadays.

It will eventually run the battery down yes. It will of course depend on the current draw of the amp with no load and what type of battery you have. Also make sure the amp power wire is correctly fused and run the remote wire asap. Better to be safe than sorry. It won' t take long to replace the wire, so do it the next time you have a spare 1/2 hour or so.

Also, try test the impendance across the sub by using a multimeter on the terminals. If no impendance measured, you have a cooked voice coil. Try another sub on the amp, see if it works ok.

Here are some pics of mine. I used mostly Bostik, but will be striping this back and using all Dynamat Extreme in the near future. SDing your ride will make a significant difference, I did the boot when it was striped out and it made a huge difference to quietening the exhaust. And this is the FG weather/water shield I made to protect the speaker. It's covered in DME. So you can see the inner and outer skins are done, I went so far as to wrap the side intrusion beams! The bostik is very easy to work with, you just heat up the panels (they are 500mmx500mm) and the become soft and easy to mould to panels. Similar to DM, you just peel backing of to expose a sticky side. Hope this helps, and sorry about the phone pics, I didn't have a digi cam when I did the SDing.

Should do. I've run 225 on standard 6.5" wide rims and 225 on an 8.5" 19" rim. The 8" wide rim would be ideal for a 235.

Undo the pin that holds the door brace on (the one that stops door swinging open too far). Use a 10mm ring spanner to remove bolts. You'll need patience, I have done this in two R33's and took about 4hrs each. I was running 10awg (2.5mm) each time. Be careful to make sure wire doesn't get pinched when bolting plug back up.

You should be ok with that offset and tyre sizes (go 9.5" on rear!) I have +25 offset same widths in 19" with a fairly low ride height. Had to have rear lips rolled and a sligtly narrower tyre on front (225/35) so you should be ok with +30 offset as they will stick 5mm further under guards than mine.

Hi Phil, welcome to SAU. You have PM.

C/F and fibreglass is very brittle, be very careful when drilling as the bits can grab and make a rough edges. I'd recommend using a small rotary tool with a fine grinding bit. Just mark out the size of the hole and grind carefully. Should get a better result than a drill.

Nice man. Get the pioneer surround and trimit tfit in. I had to modify mine tofit but looks mucho better aye.

Definatley bolts right up, comes with gasket and bolts too. Just bought one last week and am making a dual intake cold air box for it.

These guys are in Aus and sell areplica front lip. I have asked where in Aus you guys can buy as this buy/sell site is NZ based. Hopefully he answers! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0 I bought a whole bumper to obtain a lip. On arrial I saw it was pretty beat up with half arsed repair. I have since patched it up with fibreglass and had it attached fnished and pinted to the bumper. Time will tell how well the repair was done, but I'm confident it will hold. If any one decides to repair with fibreglass, don't reinforce with too many layers at once as when he resin/glass heats up and cures it can warp. Hope this helps.

This is what I did with the empty space. Showing off a bit, but I was very happy with the way it came out.

al_r33 For what you want - Front 20 x 9.5 +20 Rear 20 x 10.5 +22 The front guards won't accomodate that size (rims would stick out about 17-18mm more than mine) , new guards, or pumped guards would accomodate. Rears - small tyre stretched over may fit, but my tyres currently sit just behind rolled guard lip when suspension is compressed, to be honest I'm suprised they don't rub at the rear! I think the actual rim would just stick out past the guard. So with a slightly bigger rims being closer to the guard, I doubt strethched tyres would work unless your whale is ridin rather hi. Pumped rear guards should do the trick though, or grafted R guards.

Splits should have a crossover unit that splits the signals to each speaker. Usually you have a crossover box (fo each channel) that you feed speaker wire into from amp, there should be two sets of outputs, one for highs (tweeters) and one for lows (mids). If thre is no crossover box, then there may be an inline crossover, you should only need to feed into it from the amp. What speakers are you running?

Rainbow reference, worth more than my car! DLS are rather nice, I have a set of Iridium 6.3 in my car at the moment. Other top brands IMO, Morel, Boston Acoustic, Focal. Thats all I can thin of for now.

Have you checked the fuse that should be on the power wire to the amp? It should be close to the battery. Also use a multi meter or 12v light tester to see if power is getting to the amp. Does the amp have an LED to indicate operation? It would also chec to make sure the remote turn-on lead is plugged into the amp and loom of the headunit. It should be a blue wire coming from the back of the headunit. This sends a signal to turn the amp on when the headunit is powered up. If the amp seems to be working, use the multimeter to measure the resistance of the sub coil/s. If there is no reading, then maybe your sub is fryed.

I assume it was a car audio installer? Or was it an auto electrician? Man, thats an appalling job! You sould name the shop that did that unless they have a real good excuse for such a poor effort. Just my 2c.

Take rear seats out. Bottom part first - 2 bolts at front just under lip of seat. back is another 2 bolts by seatbelt anchors. The push seat up and pull out. Rear tray has the C pillar trim clipped into either side. just caefully bend tray to get out. Pull towards front of car without lifting as there are a few clips that clip to metal parcel tray. Speakers are bolted to mounts that are bolted/screwed to metal parcel shelf. _________________

What model Pioneer amp are ya running? Usually mono amps are specifically designed for subs and usually only play low notes i.e. there may be a low pass crossover built into the amp that prevents anything but low subsonic frequencies to be played. I wouldn't recomend using it to run components either. A set of components will show a 2ohm load on your amp, which may produce too much power for your speakers, you have to set the amp gains carefully when running overhead on your speakers ( more power than speakersare rated to handle). They will also be playing in mono - left speakers will play left and right music info. Same with the right side speakers. Hope this helps ya

I need help regarding fiting one of these lips to my standard S2 bumper. I bought a secondhand front bar that came with the factory lip - unfortunaley it needed a lot of repair work, so after repairing the lip I have decided to put it on my existing front bumper instead of using the whole thing. Can someone confirm where all the mounting holes/points are for these lips as the one I bought has heaps - just wondering if they are factory mounting points or extra added by someone. Any help appreciated. Rich

Might be a bit late, but I have found using a hairdryer to warm up the metal where the sealant sits works a treat. Softens the goop relatively quickly. A heat gun may work, but also maybe overkill, don't wanna ruin anything or burn yourself.