williamsf1

Paul time to start taking to the car with the Drill and holesaw! it is simple really, then its off to talk to the composites guys about a carbon laminate or you could just get stace to drive it there is 60kg surely I know GTR-700 is on a high fibre diet right now, so maybe thats your next move also? you should be able to easily get the car to 1250kg dry....

Hey Mate, Nah I think you didn't get what I was meaning... basically I think Paul and Stace have done an Uber job!!! and if they make 400 or 450 or 500 who cares? Im sure that is the last thing they really care about.... What I was getting at with the 10.3 there are a lot more factors that just power figures to getting a good time -driver -suspension -gearing -weight! -mechanical grip -aero -drag -weather -track condition I'm no Drug racer, but those are to name a few... I would say there is more to be gained in suspension, tyres and weight reduction than most consider to do, and having taken a peek at Twoogle with you that day out at the SAU show, it certainly was heading in the right direction in those things I'm going to be at EC on the weekend, you should come and watch a few GT-Rs in action... turning :P how many more km to go mate also? I can't wait to see how well the new engine goes... Ben

yeah well I'll buy something that is quality.... any ideas?

Andrew (snowman) how much are the DS3000 a set? and are they an agressive bite i.e. high friction pad?

yep I have the maltech lines for all wheels and clutch.... $500 all up

For sure Roy yeah Im happy to have a pad that works well on the street, but Id prefer to spend the money and get a pad that will do the hard work, and maybe not be as good at low speed/temps ? if I can get both? sure!.... There is a guy in WA looking into it, so if he has what I need at the right $$$$ I will be laughing

STI113, ok I had a look at their site, but it is looking like I will need to order them locally....I dont think I can wait for them from the US... also what else have you done to your 32 GTR brake wise to improove it? currently this is my setup:- AP 6 pot 355mm rotor unknown, but hat is AP so maybe AP unknown pad fluid is motul 5.1 RBF600 cusco brake stopper braided lines all round rears are just stock GTR with DBA rotors what pads are you running front and rear? have you done anything above and beyond this? cheers....

what about Pagid pads? and what is it about the Hawk blue that make them a step above the rest?

I have R34 GTR wheels on my R32 GTR with the AP 6 pot and I believe 355mm rotor.... it is all AP gear, and fits easily... I am in the market for some pads though!!! Im looking at Pagid or basically the best I can get.... ideas?? also here are some pics.... so the 265 35 18 in the RE55 does fit on the R34 GTR rim? and does that also clear on the R32 GTR ? I currently went the safe option and have the 245 40 18 cheers....

I think they pisss and fart as the rev limit is doing just that... holding it at the limit by cutting and re-adding the fuel... so suddenly the fuel is off.... then on.... then off.... and is going very lean, high RPM, very rich, high RPM... etc etc so there are your flames and soot I'd still love to see say a V8 supercar AFR and my side issue is the rev limter

but making low 1/4 times can be a whole lot of things other than pure power... and besides we all know the GT-R was meant for corners

would love to see a pic and a few arrows as I could do with some weight being ripped out!! 2 or the 3 are going

well Im still in search of a commercially aval. rev limiter... and I think you will find a harder or more fine tuned car will get more knock at the limiter... that is what I have been told, so maybe the RB25 doesnt stress much anyhow...

you can download the english manual here.... its in the maintenance section...

at 1 bar it made 263 AWKW

ok so does anyone have any bright idea's about getting say an ignition cut limiter with a bright LED to say "hey dummy change gears" Im in the market..... and no I dont want to buy a P FC Pro...

yeah well this new search engine is rat droppings.... so any pics or a link about what I should unbolt and remove

Yes mine will have a nice crossover.... pics to follow after the 29th....

I can tell you for sure that the knock goes much higher when you hit the limiter in a normal FC.... the fuel cut in true terms is correct, but like most things it isnt an on / off thing... therefore at some stage the mixture is leaner than optimum and at very high rpm... I would prefer an ignition cut and spray fuel / fire out the back rather than banging my engine... anyone with any good quality ignition cut rev limiters??

ok sweet... 400 or 450 its still big! and is just a number.... would love to see what they make on say DART's dynolog and the NM torque figure!!!

difference with shoot 6 or 8 ?

Yeah as a side note I am looking to buy an adjustable soft/hard cut rev limiter that will use ignition cut... this way I can keep my power FC and not have to worry about tagging the 8210 limit and leaning out! now my car has been tuned with the cams, it revs agressively all the way to the limit, where as before it would ease off at about 6500 and made shifting there the done thing... now I have to catch it before it ramps all the way!!! (only once have I tagged the limiter (first drive after tune!), and it did give an increase in knock my bad.... )

This is a convo I have just had with SK, I thought others might get something from it too quote:- "AFR's are an endless subject........ Before I start, I should mention we are talking about A/F ratios under boost, not idle or cruise A/F ratios where 14.7 (stoic) is considered rich these days for some engines. Let start off with......lambda sensors are not accurate, even the most expensive Fast and Wide (F&W) sensors have an accuracy rating that is not 100%. Plus it depends on where you place them in the exhaust, shoving them up the rear muffler with a venturi isn't as bad as just sticking a raw lambda sensor at the pipe. The exhaust gets contaminated by ambient air that gets sucked in the exhaust, this is particularly a problem with huge diameter exhaust outlets at low rpms. It isn't as good as having a lambda sensor right at the turbo outlet, like the car manufacturers do. But that would mean having 2 F&W sensors in the case of a GTR. On the race cars we have a blanked off bung in the exhaust just behind the standard lambda sensors where we screw the dyno F&W lambda sensor in when we are tuning. Lambda sensors are not all calibrated the same. They compare the exhaust with the ambient air and as you well know the ambient air changes a lot. So they have to be calibrated regularly, most dyno shops do it once a week if you are lucky. Some do it only when they get a new lambda sensor. They could do it every day, maybe even twice a day in changing conditions. So we have differences in A/F ratios that may be simply the different calibration or placement of the lambda sensor. The actual A/F ratios themselves may be the same. Good dyno operators know about the variability of A/F ratios and allow some room for error. For example, the target A/F ratio might be 12 to 1 but they tune at 11.8 to 1 knowing that they have a 0.2 margin for lambda sensor inaccuracy. Some tuners have total faith in their lambda sensor readings and tune to exactly 12 to 1. Sometimes that blind faith is misplaced and they are actually tuning to an A/F ratio higher than 12 to 1. Based on what we have seen, RB engines seem to make best power at 12 .5 to 1 and sometimes 12.8 to 1. This is OK for a race engine where we monitor the A/F ratios all the time and where every single horsepower is required. On a road car, that is tuning a bit too close for the changing conditions and unmonitored life that they experience. With the accuracy of ECU's these days and the consistency of fuel, most people generally accept that around 12 to 1 is reasonably safe. A few years ago 11.5 was considered risky, this has increased as F&W lambda sensors have become more accurate, easy to obtain and relatively cheap and tuners have more faith in the equipment and their ability. Knock almost as endless a subject as lambda............. Firstly, knock sensors are simply microphones, they are calibrated to hear upper cylinder pre-ignition frequencies and pretty much ignore all other noises. Unfortunately there are quite few noises in cars that have similar frequencies to pre-ignition and the knock sensor can't tell the difference. Being a microphone, they simply transfer the noise into electrical signals that the ECU receives and interprets. The displayed knock is simply a number, it's not knocks per minute/second/hour.....it's just a number. In the case of a Power FC (my terminology) 100 is really bad (stop right now and fix it), 80 is bad (stop soon and fix it), 60 is almost OK (get the tune checked as soon as you can), 40 is OK (maybe get the tune checked if you are worried), 20 is perfectly safe (press on) and 10 is too low (the engine is not tuned close enough). On a Power FC there are 2 items you can change for knock with the lap top software (Apexi Excel or Datalogit). One is "threshold" (default is 60) that flashes the dash warning light when the knock exceeds 60. Sometimes we change that to 50 or even 40 if the engine is tuned close. The other is "setting" (default is 9) which I never change, I always assumed it meant the frequency of the dash warning flashes. Maybe it doesn't, I have been meaning to do a bit of research on that one, now is as good a time as any."

well I'm getting a full twin system shortly.... 63mm thin walled stainless, straight from each of the TRUST extended dumps. it should make a little more power and also sound fantastic..

No worries Marcus.... I should have a few more go fast bits by then too!