heller44

It isw meant to be getting rolled out this month. Any news on what servo's though?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=bleed++attessa In there is a howto on bleeding attessa. Make sure you check the fuse under the bonnet as well. The ~3sec delay is normal for the 4wd light to come on if there is a fault. Fluid good, Bled properly, check fuses, check the led on the ets controller for diagnostic readout.

And the fuse under the dash as well don't forget. Unfortunately there's lots of things that will stop 4wd. Just work through and see what you find.

The 4wd computer under your parcel shelf, left hand side.

check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

What settings? A dyno run doesn't change anything, just gets a power measurement. If you are talking about getting a remap or aftermarket ecu, then no difference if done in awd or rwd other than a slight change in the number. With r32's putting it in rwd is as easy as pullin one of 2 fuses, with an 33 or 34 its a bit harder with dropping the prop shaft.

Good question as I was looking for this as well. Hit 110 just normal suburban driving the other day with 40+ ambient and was wondering. Normally sits around 90.

32 dumps are cast.

I checked last night, in the dark, 1 2 5 & 6 are arcing. Nice blue flicker as well. Pulled the coils and checked and there's not a lot to see. Will give them a coating this weekend and then try again. One thing I was unsure of, When I pulled the coils to check, there was no cap on the spring touching the spark plug. It went coil --> spring (inside rubber bootie) --> spark plug. Am I missing bits or is this how it is meant to be? Unsure.. Thanks..

What does that jecs box do?

The seal is bonded to the window, so don't just cut the window out expecting to get another one easily. A new replacement is ~$500, hopefully cheaper with mates rates but I don't think there is much wiggle room there. My panelbeater broke mine getting it out, averagely pissed about that.

my 32 and 33 seats had different sized catches, width wise.

once you have that 14411- number look on the list I put up before.. easy as.

According to this chart, the only .53 ar comp housing on a standard issue turbo is on the bnr34 stocker.. Now, I don't have these, I have never seen these, And I hope that it is true. ( Basic intarweb disclaimer ) http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

And I'd agree with that wholeheartedly. Using gtr shocks with kings low springs atm, and there is no way that the shock is hard enough to cope with the spring rate and reduced travel. Just waiting to put a set of koni or bilstein shocks to make the system work better. IF I had the money together at once I would go the sk group buy, but thought I'd give it a try first. Was cheap to try, I love the look, like how it is on the road, just need to make it right. Got to be real careful atm to ensure that it doesn't bottom out and damage something in the meantime. Oh, I was advised against doing this before I started. But I like to try stuff...

With reference to the diagram, all you are testing doing that is that the aircon relay works and the compressor clutch works, not all the rest of the crap which controls it.. the ecu is what turns on the air con relay, it is just told to do it by the climate control module.

0v good. floating or 12v bad. Thats straight out of the manual. 0v to earth.

rb26 diagram, but pinouts are the same for rb20 aircon_diagram.pdf

check wether pin 9 on the eccs is going low 0v when trying to cool on air con. if not, then check pin 46 on eccs if that is going low 0v. pin 9 is out to pressure switch to pull aircon relay in, pin 46 is in from auto amplifier (climate control). If you don't get it there check pin 15 on climate control thats the origination point. If your diagnostics on all sensors are good, this is about your next step.

The switch on the top of the dryer ( the gas cylinder thing ) is a pressure switch, it stops the compressor kicking in if you don't have enough pressure in the system. 'If' you have the correct amount of gas in the system, and bridging out the pressure switch gets it all working, wouldn't it appear that is a problem with the pressure switch?

ffs. nevermind just saw the title bar and actually comprehended it. Interested. Willing to do pickup?

tie rod inner and outers are different as well, unless you can swap the whole steering rack over, which is an unknown atm.

Wouldn't the coils get toasted by the manifolds? Not much distance there...

I'd like to know as well. At least the inner and outer tie rods are different.. but I don't know about the main part.

Thanks champ. Considering how bodged all the systems on this car are, it is nice to know that some things are right.. just need to know what they should be.