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heller44

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Everything posted by heller44

  1. On the topic of phenolic spacers, when the 5.0 was new to the mustang, one of the popular mods was a phenolic spacer between the upper and lower halves of the intake manifold. I remember seeing test results showing a definate improvement. James.
  2. Mine turned up today. Thanks mate. I'll try to find some time for it on the weekend.. I think you've given me a whole new list of work to do to my car... James.
  3. BHDave: totally wrong type of signal you have there. Frequency modulated fixed duty waveform input as speed reference signal, pulse width modulated fixed frequency output to solenoid. James. (I'm maybe looking at learning to program PIC's to make up a small converter to do this though.. If I find the time and motivation)
  4. 'theoretically' it should be the same fault code listing as the 4wd code list, as the same module does both. cannot confirm or deny, look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3017234 james.
  5. It will be your abs module, in 4wd cars it is also the attessa module. You can see the little translucent hole for the fault code light in the top left of your pic.
  6. Re-doing the afm piping isn't an issue as I was looking at reolacing the lot with stainless, just interested in if the rb20/25 afm was a workable upgrade or not. Considering that I will only be paying for the materials, not the fabricating, the rb20/25's might work out cheaper than buying a pair of nismo afm's. james.
  7. fm I'm lazy today.. couldn't even be bothered searching, just relied on anothers... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=rb25+afm+gtr here is the answer.
  8. I'd like to know the answer as well..
  9. quick answer. nope. hicas and attessa are seperate, but use a lot of similar inputs. To test if the 4wd is actually working, pull the fuse either under the dash, or in the engine bay, find a nice stretch of "private" road and dump and go. Then turn the electrics off, put the fuse back in and rinse and repeat. I find in the wet if i have it in 2wd it is insanely bad, like driving on wet oil. In 4wd even in very wet conditions I can't get it to spin a wheel. The other thing you coould do is stick your head in the boot and see if there are any error codes on the attessa module. search for the code list.. james.
  10. https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html shows you how to work the offset out easily. Usually on the sticker, only size width and bead type is marked on the casting normally. go to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=84208 for various wheel fitment sizes for gtr's, plenty examples listed. ps. never said they were fakers. just nice. james.
  11. No dish is the giveaway, as well as the (real or fake) rim inner bolts, so not sf-. but it appears thay are 'winning' as referrenced here: http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/wheelmodels/770 discontinued model, but still look nice. I have gmax copies of the sf-winning and they are luscious wheels.
  12. Pull the coils and plugs out, turn the key to on and watch what happens in the cylinder, if the injector is wide open you will see a constant spray. Hydrolocking a motor will do more damage to bearings than rods, especially on start. If it was at running revs then rod breakage would be a concern. Because you are doing all this yourself, you also take on the risk of damage if something isn't working properly. Not someone else taking the risk. James
  13. You wouldn't buy them from nissan though. From other spare parts stores I have heard of $1 ea or there abouts, so just ask around.
  14. By strange coincidence, I just had my injectors serviced today, clean / test / pintle caps / insulators / o'rings. Have also had to purchase two replacement injectors for the two leaking from the housing,.. bstrd. Didn't get a price on them but 4 injectors done and 2 just tested were $100. I know nissan are about 15 for each o'ring and probably worse for the insulators. Just get them serviced, be better in the long run anyway.
  15. I can look at manuals, but I can't answer that.. all I can say is that mine doesn't have one, better to wait until the r33 and r34 happy lads put in their input.
  16. Probably not. As your r32 26 is, as is his, with a fuel pressure regulator mounted on the most foreward part of the fuel rail, near the top radiator hose. Is there only 2 hoses going to the unit, both fuel? then it'll be as wogsrus says. I can find the fuel damper in this location in my r34 diagrams, but i have no r33.. but thats what it is on an r34 anyways. just checked an r33 manual. definate fuel damper. i must be bored.. James.
  17. to quote your link. "Next was the RB25DE, a 2.5l engine with 190hp at 6400rpm, powering the GTS25 and GTS4." note gts25, not gts25t. Doesn't change anything for you, just look in the stagea part of the forum for more specific information on the motor that you have and what you have to change for fitment.. Personally for the sump I'd be doing what r31nismoid and stronzo suggested.
  18. Ah, more than likely a stagea motor then..
  19. Isn't the gts4 r33 an non-turbo motor? ie higher compression and a few other changes standard?
  20. Interesting, not getting emails for new posts at the moment. Just to let you know peter, might be some others in the same boat.
  21. My wife and I went down today to watch as well. Very nice day out. Bad luck gav, looked like that was the case from the sideline. Fairly sure it was yours i was watching earlier on in the eastern lane launced with all wheels spinning for the first 30 meters, very cool. And to everyone else.. well done getting out there and having a go. James.
  22. Similar to above, but using a half brick and then a full brick under one side. Then the trolley jack slides in nicely to the crossmember. Use the beefiest stands you can though, if you are going under the car, make damn sure it can't move on you..
  23. Block is different sam, will need an adapter like R.I.P.S. make for the 30 into gtr. Just go the 26, you know you want to and, look, it fits like it should have been there in the first place..
  24. Well.. to run you need three things, compression, fuel, and spark. Go through and see which you are missing. Check you have fuel in the rail and injectors are opening, check you have spark. Small steps make up a marathon.
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