heller44

From initial reading I don't think the DPA will work in this situation. It looks for a duty cycle input and modifies it to give a duty cycle output. This would work well if we were keeping the hicas module with the power steering solenoid output and just modifying the 'weight' of the steering from standard. What we would be looking for is a frequency input to a duty cycle output. The input from the speedo will be a sort-of sino-square wave.

Sorry about that. Finger fault. 4.4v-6.6v The voltage measured could be a function of an decrease in the frequency, or an decrease in duty cycle, or an decrease in voltage. If I had to bet, I'd say an decrease in duty cycle would be the more likely, easier to pwm the signal than try and vary the frequency.

Not unless that is just another of the weird wiring problems I'm to be chasing. Have to turn off motor and ignition for mine to recallibrate and pick up 4wd again.

The smaller plug by itself on non-hicas cars contains all the wiring for the power steering control. The smaller plug on the hicas equipped cars has the hicas solenoid outputs, hicas failsafe output and hicas warning light, so it could be left unplugged after the hicas unit is locked. The larger plug contains all the inputs and the power steering output. The wiring diagrams show the same plug shape used for hicas and non-hicas, just wiring changed. James.

Voltage: 0 km/h (0 MPH) : Approx. 4.4 - 6.6V 100 km/h (62MPH) : Approx. 1.5 - 2.2V This is the value range that it should be delivered to the solenoid. According to the manual. Still unsure if it a pwm signal or a variable dc. IF it is a straight solenoid function, it would be a pwm, which a digital meter would just be reading the rms of the pulses. The speed signal from the speedo gauge goes to the ecu and to the power steering control unit (which is housed in the hicas module, thats why it has a seperate smaller plug. ie. what salad said above ^ ). Thats an idea.. Might do some diagnosis this weekend, bring the cro home and have a look-see.. James.

You have it champ. Putting a switch in with the fuse in the engine bay will do what you want, but if you want 4wd back, you have to put the switch back in and also turn off the car's electrics and back on. Painful, but you get that if you want abs and 2wd. I did it that way, but am thinking that I don't really need to have abs when I have 2wd, after the fact.. James.

No worries. I'll look at the manual when i get home. There is a fairly comprehensive writeup on the variable assist in there. mr_rbman: thats about what you'll have to do to keep it. Others I have seen trying to strap the solenoid have just had either very heavy or very light steering. Just letting the system do its job is the best way. I'm currently missing a clutch switch input and neutral switch input to the hicas computer.. without those two I can't even get into the diagnostics mode... But hey, I might be chasing wiring.. but at least I gained a 26. James.

{This is from memory out of the r32 gtr service manual..} The variable assist is done on the solenoid on the steering rack. The varying voltage to the solenoid comes from the hicas computer. There is a speed signal that goes from the speedo cluster to the hicas computer. The force ramp is not quite linear but can be approximated as increasing with speed, graph in manual. I am fuzzy on wether the speed signal goes through the ecu before going to the hicas module, just sure on the origin and end point. As my copy of the manual is at home I can't confirm or deny, But I have been studying this section recently because mine has power assist issues at the moment. Car has been converted from auto to manual at some stage and wiring is all up the duff. If any of this helps at all... James. *edit for v vs f.. f increases. Fairly sure v decreases.

dario, do you still have these? Distribution Block $10 50Amp AGU fuses x 5 $5 Platinum AGU Fuse Holder $10 Fused Distribution Block $15 $30 FOR ALL 4 james.

Same rolling diameter, or smallest rolling diameter on the front. With new tyres, with your sizes, your rears have a slightly smaller rolling diameter. When I replaced my worn fronts with the same size as the rears, even that was enough of a difference in rotating diameter to upset the 4wd, showed as a pulsing torque. Attatched tyre calculator for anyone interested.. edit. won't let me add the xls file. sorry.

Why spend money when you don't have to? Closing the gap to 0.8 is usually enough, though going a little bit tighter can be an option but isn't a MUST. Doing a bit of DIY, strapping and cleaning the coil packs, getting a nicely running machine again, without just ripping out the wallet sounds like a much better situation to me. linky to hks drag car running std coils. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=157076

Around what? Where mine were breaking through was from coil housing to the mounting frame that goes around and through the body of the coil. No way that you can get normal tube heat shrink on there. Self vulcanising tape would be a possible, but it wouldn't like the heat. There is also heatshrink tape out there, but it's too expensive.

Similar idea here graham. Used Isonel, which is a spray varnish for motor windings as well as being heat cured and high temp resistant, and high voltage insulator as well.

From memory it was $152 per tie rod end. Considering the set that I put into the ute last were about $40 for the pair, paying $302 seems just a tad excessive.

fuelwatch website is your friend. just go price search / quick search / 98ron and it brings up all the locations.

Need to find a decently priced supplier of tie rod ends as well. The ~$150 ea that nissan wants takes a bit of swallowing.

I checked on mine, and I didn't have the required harness connector for the gauge set. You could chase each sensor wire up and splice it in. Shouldn't be too hard to do. volts comes from the supply to the gauge set, oil temp you could rig up from a sensor in a sandwich block, same with the boost. Although why you would want to.. the volts is almost never used, first indication is headlight brightness. Boost gauge is the crud -7 to +7 one. and the oil temp gauge doesn't have a great resolution. Aftermarket all the way for better clearer gauges. And damnit, it isn't a gtr, just adding gtr parts doesn't automatically make it better. Have fun. James.

If you haven't bled all the air out of the cooling system properly you can get this.

Remix, did you find a supplier or did you have to resort to nissan actual.

Please consider... Don't buy crap gauges, as well as looking tacky, they aren't reliable or accurate. The gauges will be your link to monitoring the running condition of your engine. The autogauge boost gauge that I had started off fine, then went south, eventually checked against a mechanical test gauge and found it was ~5psi out. Using a mechanical apexi el gauge and happy. The difference between mechanical and electrical isn't that big so just get what you want. Nothing says that the electrical is going to be any better than the mechanical. If anything I'd trust the other way. Running greddy electrical ex.temp and oil.temp gauges and very happy with those as well, just wouldn't want to have to pay for them again... James.

Be very cautious about running different size tyres and wheels front / back on your car. I had big issues even with different brand same size tyres. At ~100km/h the 4wd torque gauge was flicking up, and the car felt like it was surging badly. Had to swap the newer tyres to the rear ( larger rolling diameter, just ). 235/45/17's fitted. 17x8's.

22 is ETS oil level switch or circuit. You definately have enough fluid in the res? Otherwise check the res level switch continuity. If neither is the problem look at wiring harness or controller borked.

I wasn't suggesting you buy another one, just compare your results with another meter. Reading ohms that low the meter's accuracy could be out a bit. What is the lead resistance (just the reading when the leads are joined)? Is the reading consistant on one coil (read it, disco and then read it again, does it change)?

nope. the spark plugs won't be doing anything until the engine starts turning over. check earths and supply to starter.

right setting. crap meter. In my experience with those particular dse meters, the accuracy and repeatability of measurement is far from ideal. If you can test with a decent meter or compare two meter's readings it would be better.