heller44

Get on the ground and look at your gearbox, drivers side.. Should see something along the lines of this: almost the same anyways.. generic pic. red circle shows the slave cylinder. that is in front of the clutch fork pushing back, this is a push type clutch. if your slave cylinder is in the yellow circle, pushing forward, it is a pull type clutch.

That modification is to allow changing the trigger disc in the crank angle sensor to a type to suit certain aftermarket ecu's. Using the stock computer or a power-fc or similar you won't have to worry. james.

? The operation of a push or pull clutch system outside of the bellhousing is identical. Compression of fluid at the master, pushes the slave cylinder out of its housing. It is the direction of effort on the clutch fork that is the difference between push and pull. Push, the slave cylinder is foreward of the clutch fork, pushes it backwards, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork PUSHES on the clutch to operate. Pull, the slave cyinder is rearward of the clutch fork, pushes it foreward, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork (which is mechanically connected to the clutch ) PULLS the clutch assembly to operate. Simplest way to check is: If the slave is foreward of the clutch fork, it is push, if it is rearward of the clutch fork, it is pull. Zennon.. get rid of that confusing incorrect information.

My autogauge had the startup ramp.. Keep an eye on the needle position with the key on and the engine not running. The gauge had drifted off and was reading ~5psi low. Cheap crap. james. apexi el mech.. $118 delivered from nengun...

It would have been the backlight wiring. With the old blitz gauge that came in my car (broken though), I was able to unscrew the back of the housing and get at the insides without having to destroy it. If you can do that, you could pop a small hole in the back housing and solder a pair of wires onto where the wires terminate inside. james.

rev210, what sort of kw difference do cam gears make, apporximately? Like the original poster I am looking at tomei poncam b's. thanks. james.

Do you have the dyno graphs to compare the area under the curve of the rb and clevo? I am just interested is all.

They both have the same nominal current rating,.. so should theoretically have the same power output. The I in max, is the surge current that might be needed for situations, like starting the light output. Make sure the fuse is rated to handle the max current, and that the cable is rated high enough to carry that current safely. james.

With how cheap the apexi el mechanical is from nengun.. it would be very hard to pass up. Had one of those cheap ebay gauges, autogauge, was about 5psi low in its reading. nasty.

Secur1ty : Sl!m Mat was just trying to point out that the reference had to be taken from the turbo outlet, not the turbo inlet.. just to clarify for the original poster, as it differs from that mspaint drawing posted. james.

Having never been to an autosalon show before.. do they allow personal cameras in?

Both suggestions above use non-stock type tie rod ends, rose joints with no dust boots. Have a search about rose joints, and their suitability for daily use. Ring a few suspension parts places, eg. pedders, and see if they can get stock type tie rod ends for your vehicle. Better to be informed when you make a decision.

If you buy a tie rod end, they'll be real nice and give you one for free.

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. Concensus is that it was a lightened stock flywheel...

Quiet. Too quiet for me.. I want a louder car. This is with stock turbos, stock dumps and front pipe, and what looks to be a compliance cat. Still has a decent note, not what I'd ever call stock sounding, never could be with that size tubing but very acceptable at idle and highway speeds.

Running that one on my car at the moment, until I sort out replacements for stock front and dumps. How the car came as bought.

G'day again, I was wondering if you needed the car to be able to make up a set of intake pipes, the same as Topaz had built. Or if it was possible to make up a set without? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2853257 Thanks. James.

Had a similar symptom on my car as well.. gain on the boost controller was turned up against the end stop, causing oscillating.

Have you changed the oil since you bought the car? I had exactly the same symptoms, weak syncho's into 4th with a quicker shift at higher revs. Changed oil to vmx80 and nulon g70 treatment. Now it is very nice to use. I was advised against the redline lightweight shockproof as the chemical rating(?) of the oil eats away at the material the synchro is made of.. heard this from a number of sources. james.

I do understand what you are saying. What I am trying to decide is the most economical use of my cash, for the best practical result. Using the original filter box isn't an option either because I'd have to purchase one, M's only on here when bought. The thing is, If I am paying that for the nismo's, and then more for the filters and adapters, I feel that z32's offer the same result for less outlay, and are available in australia.. Then the other option is the haltech e11v2 or the pfc d-jetro, plus filter kit, as I need a new ecu (only running stock atm) and the price comparison between pfc + afm's, pfc-djetro and haltech is as nearly the same. james.

$366 ea delivered isn't quite what I would call cheap. A little less (ouch!) expensive maybe.. I am in the same boat as Betz, having to replace the worn out M's pods and the afm's. The options for me as I see them are: 1) pods with rb20/25 secondhandies. 2) pods with z32's 3) pods with nismo afm's 4) replacement stock airbox with nismos. 5) haltech or pfc d-jetro (with pods or airbox as well) (local tuner prefers haltech) opinions?

32 cable, 33 electrical.

http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/R32-Fuses.htm

xs-power? please think of the children..

Another one here with forks on rear shocks. Looks to be standard gts4 rear as welll though... though considering how much of a frankenstein this car is.. anything is possible.