heller44

going by http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm here, http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/gtr_turbines.jpg and here, there appears visually to be just slight casting mark differences. hope that helps you some.

When I was looking for what age the motor in my car is, all I did was compare the number with cars of known original motor number. Pity that its only a 32. Fast didn't take engine numbers when I was playing with it.

You may have dodgy afm/'s. next time it does it, try wiggling the afm plugs and see if that changes it. If it does there is a diy fixit thread on here somewhere.

With that install what fittings did you use, and did you put a strainer on the end?

Could be either of two possible causes. You have a different series dash in your car and the pin-outs are different. Or, the speed signal generator in the back of the speedo isn't working. The pin-out difference is what caused my car not to have power steering. Late r32 gtr dash in early gts4. Looked like a chrismas tree with wrong lights coming up, high beam indicator when lights off, off when lights are on, that sort of thing.. After everything else was sorted, still no power steering assist. I had hooked the speed sensor lines up, but the polarity was wrong, reversed the two wires and it was all good.

Remove the instrument cluster and look at the end of the cable, you should see a square drive pin sticking out. If not it will most likely be still stuck in the back of the cluster instead of being attached to the cable end. If it is there and isn't loose, move the car a few meters and you should see the pin turn, this is to ensure that the drive from the gearbox and the cable itself is all ok. bets are on cable end..

Just looked at your pics, panel shop should fix that easy, just clean it and put a bit of primer / sealer on there to keep the rust away antil you get it fixed.

I paid the price for ordering via nengun. The destructions list the appropriate nissan part numbers for both, so it shouldn't be that bad..

It is a pity that the ORC twin that I bought didn't come with carrier and bearing.

funkymonkey: was this the one you were thinking of? http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/1656 Don't really like the kit, or the nasty rear quarters, but at least I have more of an image to go by.

This may seem weird, but has anyone seen pics of a 32 with 34gtt front? Not interested in the gtr look at all, but haven't seen the gtt on a 32 before. My car is that much of a heinz57 that a few more different cars wouldn't upset it that much.

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Adam, I recently had installed a set of koni's with kings lows on my 32, sold to me by R DIRTY 3 and fitted as well. Only had the car on the road for about 2 weeks afterwards, no track or anything. I had to increase the damping on the fronts to make the car feel more balanced as the fronts felt almost bouncy compared to the rears which felt settled from the word go. Felt very nice on the roads that I drive on normally. Hope you like them..

Even better, I had to put my car over the pits as it was bought unregistered / recovered vehicle. Pods were passed as soon as they were mounted on sturdy brackets, K&N oiled type on M's adapters non-enclosed. Boost controller and turbo timer were left in but turned off for the initial inspection but was advised by the inspector that they could be left on and it wouldn't be a problem. Had to get front ball joints replaced and a few other bits done before they would pass it. Just lucky I guess..

It should activate with a closed circuit to chassis. I meant the wire you disconnected, is it making an intermittant contact with the chassis and bringing up the light?

cut wire earthing to chassis?

I think you might be a tad confused. The hicas ecu controls the hicas and the power steering. The ets module controls the abs and 4wd. There is a solenoid on the front power steering rack almost directly under the drivers feet that modulates the power assist for the steering. Check that the wiring to this is still good and that you are getting a voltage there at idle. *edit. Perform a hicas diagnostic and see if there are any faults evident. Power steering goes hard when there is a fault with the hicas system.

It is a relay. Nice heavy duty one commonly used as a pilot relay for starter motor solenoids on diesel motors. Can't think of a reason why someone would use one in a car.. is it supplying power to an amp setup or similar? I've had to replace them on train motors. Also they are succeptable to random operation by vibration if they are mounted any way other than the correct orientation.

ets_pinout.pdfr32_wiring_diagrams.pdf

Anything other than an r32 dash and you will have to re-engineer the speedo drive as the r32 was the last of the cable driven speedos, as well as it being a bitch of a thing to make fit due to the different shapes. Better to just get a nismo or tomei or similar 300kph speedo unit and bang it into your cluster, or if yours is the earlier model, get a late 32 gtst dash with the grey (gtr-like) faces instead of the blue and do the same to it.

Ever seen the result of an orange launched from a metho powered bazooka?.... mates with way too much time on their hands.

Had exactly the same sound. Main fault was the fuel pump trying to run with only ~10v and the diaphram on the fuel pressure regulator torn. Ran rich at idle, but where it needed it most, right in the meat of the midrange, as the turbos were starting to boogie it would rattle like a handful of ballbearings in a big milo tin, after this point it would settle down. Very easy to spot on a dyno run, if you haven't yet it is real cheap insurance.

look at how the -5 and the rs bolt to the pipework. the -5 is made to connect to the rb26 original flanges.

221rwkw @ ~12psi almost the same as above but M's pods, everything else stock.

What is the process of powdercoating at home? Looking at doing my covers the same..