heller44

With the revs at 110 I'd agree.

When I'm under the bonnet again tomorrow I'll pm you the vin. Car was originally auto , pearl black.

An easy check for bad coils. Remove coil cover, wait til dark, make sure engine is warm, watch coils with engine running in a nice dark area and if your coils are arcing out you will see nice blue lightning around the base of the suspect coils. Oil is perhaps a bit on the thick side. Nissan spec 7.5-30, I personally use 5-40 and it seems to like it. Fuel economy, how heavy is your right foot? Are your o2 sensors working correctly? Are you pushing more than stock boost? A lot of factors affect economy. Just before mine came off the road I was getting ~220km to 45l, driving like a grandpa, rich as a pig. Hope some of this helps.

That should be ok, The resistor artificially raises the ground point so shouldn't be in the circuit anymore. *edit: Are you sure the resistor is in the engine bay? I thought it was behind the drivers side rear trim section 'c' pillar trim?

My set of 2860's here won't react to a magnet, the rear wheel is an alloy. Not a good test.

mines ecu in the passenger kick panel? if so it wouldn't be the cause. attessa ecu is on the underside of the parcel shelf in the boot, on the left hand side if i recall. right hand side one is hicas / power steering module. attessa ecu is the one with the indicator light peephole on the housing.

Steering weight is controlled by a pulsed solenoid on the steering rack.

I'd place bets that the tomei box is just a load simulator so that the hicas module doesn't see the difference. If I wanted to rip mine out, which is a long way down my list of priorities first of which is getting it moving again, I think it would be quite easy to replicate. You can also wire the soenoid to a constant 12v, as long as it doesn't burn out it will give you permanent light steering, probably not what you want at 100+ though. Easier to build a pwm solenoid controller with a dial on it so that you can adjust steering weight for your wants.

might be able to fit a 15 over gtst brakes, there would be heaps of gtst owners who would do a straight swap. I wouldn't want to drive the gtr afterwards though...

It is. Pity that the glass has the seal permanently attached to it, makes it an expensive part to replace. The first one I bought from someone here out of a wreck, he didn't know about this and carved the seal off to get it out...

I did try a 15" rim over my brakes when looking for a replacement spare. no go on the fronts.

Hicas removal won't kill your 4wd unless you do things like removing wheel speed transducers / wiring / etc. What you may end up with if it isn't done correctly is quite heavy power steering effort. Search for info on gtr's removal process and problems that occur as the gts4 and gtr are the same.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...p;hl=gtr+buying

Also the fault indicator light on the attessa module in the boot, read off the flashes for the fault code.

pm me an email addy and i'll scan it in tomorrow for you.

It gives a listing of different part numbers for different heights. The sheet suggests that the measurement between the bearing carrying face and the face of the tabs that are worked on by the clutch fork should be 14-16mm for 31, 32, 33 & 34's. It would be interesting to see which part number / size you are currently using for the nismo twin. Once you have fitted and bedded it in, it would be great to get a comparison on the two, feel wise.

Should be the same height clutch stack then but just check, the different bearing carrier is for the change in height of the clutch fingers from the flywheel. I haven't fitted mine yet (orc 709d as well), but the instruction sheet shows flywheel bolt torque at 142.1 - 151.9 Nm, and clutch cover torque at 39.2 Nm. Pages 7 and 9 respectively. Also makes mention of using loctite 242 on the clutch cover bolts. Thats just from reading the booklet. I'm going to cheat and pay someone else to replace it for me. After I get the pair of 2860's in the hole that is in my engine bay I think I deserve it. james. note. the r32 service manual states 34-44 Nm for clutch to flywheel for stock clutch.

If you are replacing the stock clutch, I believe you need a new bearing carrier as well.

Just to add, the bottom of my bunky tank is shiny as well.

Just measure each resistor.. if the value is good, you're good.

Checked the fluid level in the boot res? Otherwise, once the fault is up, open the boot and count off the flashes on the attessa ecu and work out why it spat the dummy.

isn't lash adjustment on rb20's hydraulic? or have you had the valvetrain changed to solids?

I own both, an r32 with 26 and 4wd, and an '03 wrx. Totally different cars, totally different feel on the road. Take one you like the look of for a drive and see wether it meshes with you.. it will or won't. The rex is the wife's car, she was unsure so I told her just to go and take it for a drive. Pity she couldn't find a cheaper one, but honestly I don't think she tried.

check the starter motor solenoid connections. another option is to fit a pilot relay with a fused direct switched feed from battery to starter, my car was the same and had to do this, as well as all the old fords i used to own...

injector impedance is also an issue, will have to ballast them somehow.