heller44

You might want to edit that as it made no sense at all. An 044 intank is no problem if you use an additional sock filter on the inlet. Orientation isn't an issue with it at all. If anything I would be more worried about the limited filtering capacity of the 040 pump filter screen. The 044 does have an internal filter screen as well, although the mesh might keep out things like.. medium size rocks perhaps? My question was pointed more at eXc as he has reported 044 intank failures and I was wondering if he had used an additional pickup filter, but then having one bad out of the box I probably would have been asking more questions of the supplier, than the pump install itself. James.

Did you have a sock filter on the end or were you using it like SECUR1TY's install?

An unmolested 253 wb ute. Fairly damn rare. My b&s taxi of choice a long long time ago. Never owned one though.

By the sounds of it, I would have to agree with BNR#@. It sounds like your bearing carrier is too short for your application, so that even at full throw the clutch isn't being disengaged. Even though the manual is in japanese it isn't really hard to work out which one you need for your car.. numbers and pics make it easier to follow. By the way, Thanks to Serg for helping out gavin at cypher with my clutch. Thanks heaps mate. I think they were under the impression that I didn't have the manual. Hopefully it is the nastiest clutch install that they have to deal with for a long time as it needed a pile of other bits replaced and a real bastard to fit it all back in. Clutch bites like a bitch, but seems to be getting a bit nicer after a couple of days use. Zacka tuned it on thursday night and it made 350.6 rwhp @ ~17psi. All via hand controller too. Very happy.. for now.

Mine failed pits the first time around for the same reason, plus a host of others. Remedy for the amount of damage that was done was to cut away and re-box the chassis rail.

http://www.aerocatch.com/ this is the original manufacturer.

please. don't. Your pfc hand controller will show you the o2 sensors response, no need for a piece of useless crap in your cabin to do the same pointless thing. Unless you really feel the illogical need and just have to have another gauge to watch go back and forth.

Before you play with anything else, do a hicas diagnostic. It will report what part of the system isn't working correctly and you can fix it, or at least find out why it is playing up. It won't be your power steering fluid as you have a 33, 32's had hydraulic hicas mixed in with the power steering hydraulics, 33's have electrical hicas but the computer for the system still runs both hicas and power steering systems. If search worked on here it would be easy to find, (diagnostic procedure that is) if you can't post up and i'll drag it out if I can find it.

I have read of a few instances of splitfires being bad, either out of the box, or within a short life span, so don't think I am being negative against one or the other. I just believe that the test of the superspark coils in that magazine was bogus. If the stock coils were breaking down, then it stands to reason that installing new units picked up power that was lost.. but I would have liked to have seen the difference between stock oem good coils and aftermarket. It was as if they installed a known bad set of coils to inflate the test results, and thats bad form. If my oem coils start breaking down when the car gets tuned next (which could be very possible as they are siliconed up atm), I will be looking around at the options, splitfire, superspark and jjr. Decision will be based on 3rd hand information as always, but will be influenced by reliability, price, and availability. Splitfire are a known quantity, with a few exceptions. JJR are cheap, with a very small installed user base, but not having negative yet. Superspark are an unknown for the same price as splitfire. We (customers) have to be given a positive reason to purchase, especially to move away from something that is recommended, as evidenced by the many posts people (fanboys) make when anything ignition related pops up and you get random post about 'just buy a set of splitfires'. James.

neg, answer=get decent bits next time.

Are you refering to the HPI magazine test of the supersparks?

can't edit.. can't add attachments either.. forums borked after change. google it.

probably easier to pick it up from the ecu harness..

Or, fit an 044 intank, it might be a bit more dificult, but it saves having a surge tank/ fuel smell in car/ begging for a ticket type of thing. Also will provide more than enough juice for anything sane.

Throw it on a dyno and get an AFR plot.. never know what that mines ecu is set for, might be a grenade.

In the pfc faq you will find the bit where you put in the injector compensation factors.. do it and then it 'should' idle and allow you to drive it off boost to your tuner without too much issue.

Put it this way, if you could get oem for the price of splitfires there would be a line of people waiting for you to get them some as well.

kneejerk response. I really do like the speed sensitive power steering, without the hicas system working you don't get this. I found it easier to spend some time and work out why it isn't working and fix it, rather than rip it out and have to live with a non functioning system, building a module for proportioning the power steering without the hicas module, or having to swap in a steering rack from a car without the speed senstitive steering. It isn't hard to work out the wiring, r32 wiring diagrams are reasonably comprehensive. By all means lock the rear in place after fixing the issues if you don't like hicas, but I feel that getting the power steering working first would be a better idea.

http://www.spc.org.uk/gallery/displayimage...m=29&pos=18 gtr not gtst though

Ok, thanks for the reply. I only looked in the faq listed in your sig, thinking it might be easier and more relevant than swimming through 22 pages (and 437 posts) of thread.. which I didn't remember existed anyway..

Considering fairly much all that stuff comes from your dash area, look for wiring that has been played with.. Also check that you have a good connection onto the hicas module itself and any connections in between. I only had the steering position sensor working out of that list when I started fixing faults, and even then the pricks had cut the harness back from the power steering solenoid anyway..

02 f/b control I understand what that is, but what does o2 Sensor reg do? Do you need it on or off for 32 or 33's? I didn't see it in the paul's pfc manifest when I last looked either.

Glad you found it. For reference, My car leaves a trail of black crap on the floor of the shed from the exhaust, that is because it is running pig rich (untuned) and instead of just coating the rear bar, the particles are heavy enough to just leave a trail from the exhaust tip.

It is definately not overflow, noise is centered around the small pipe coming from the turbos. Nothing coming past the cap.