heller44

I've finished refitting all my parts along with a pair of 2860-5's, mines dumps and stock manifolds. Did exactly what you said you did to yours, only the turbo flange as well, not the head flange as I will do that if I ever have to pull the head (match both sides). A dremel? I went nuts with a die grinder and tungsten-carbide burrs, quicker and nastier but I suppose just like the operator .

wiggle the shaft back and forward and see if there is any slop.

Maintanence costs shouldn't include insurance, rego, or fuel.. as well as blown motors etc. I won't say any more here, I'll leave that to the other thread because there seems to be a lot of self love there (did take a look). james.

Pods and adapters would be blitz, not m's. I have a set of m's with the original m's branded k&n filters here in the shed if anyone wants them, took them off to fit an apexi dry kit.

Something was out of step?

I'd just like to know what you think you will be replacing every year to accumulate a cost of 6k, other than modifying the car, just upkeep... No way in hell would I have been paying that. The cost of maintaining my car would be about the same as anyone else with a performance car, decent tires, fluids etc.. As long as you keep it reasonably sensible with the modifications then the only wear and tear will be the normal.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/26053-he...rs-r34-gtt.html discussion on this topic for you, might help.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm If you look here, It says the same.

Take a photo looking in at the front and rear of the turbo, close enough to see easily the shaft at each end clearly. post it up here and it won't take much.

Same ecu, the at is controlled by a seperate module behind the drivers side kick panel.

I'm fairly certain that the shocks in my car were longest on the front, also that no skyline has a fork for the front shock lower mount, and that in the last pic, there is a big R on the sticker.. Still the easiest way to tell is to get on your back and look under the car at the shock mounting points.. or pull a wheel and it will be obvious.

Are you sure you haven't confused fronts and rears there?

Same size tank as the gtst brethren, before it was taken off the road for a rest it was getting about 200ks to a tank @ 221rwkw.

tristran, that won't work. The r32 speedo is mechanical, from the gearbox right to the instrument cluster. So.. if the speed signal on the pfc is good, that means that the drive up to the back of the cluster is good, so all it leaves is the mechanical bit after the initial joint where the cable mates.

Pull apart and check all connections between the g sensors and the attessa ecu. Clean the lot. Then hope like hell you haven't got an intermittant broken wire somewhere in the harness. (look at the indicators on the g sensors.. can't remember rightly but it changes colour when bad.)

And there we go, decided to stick my head in the sand and do it totally different. Threw the front turbo in, then bolted both manifolds on, slipped the rear turbo in from underneath, then bolted both turbos to manifolds. After this worked from underneath and bolted the oil and water lines up, oil drains, and braces. Seemed to be a lot nicer doing it this way than when I took the stockers out (the advised way), those manifold nuts and the oil and water lines on bits that had been sitting there for so many years was enough to give me major irrits. All this work to fit new parts and I'll never get to show them off. looks damn near stock with the original heatshields back in place. Just left to fit the rad back in, air filters and piping, then the new injectors. Only been in the shed for 5 1/2 months so far.. can't rush things.

*edit. for needing to reed a bit closer.. bah.

If the speed sensor is all good, then all it can be is the mechanicals in the the speedo itself.. stands to reason. Do you still have the original one to plug back in and try? Can't see any reason for it to do that sort of silliness unless the meter itself is shot. Pull it out of the cluster (just a couple of crews) and have a look. edit* the difference between early and late dashes is the pinouts and layout of the back of the cluster, and the mountings and design of the speed sensor on the back of the speedo. I had to modify mine as it came with a late model dash that had been dropped in, and the monkeys had left it all borked. Not too hard to do, if you have the original dash there to compare with.

Be sure to post up with your results when you get them for a comparison, I am installing almost exactly the same add on parts.

check your heat shields and exhaust brackets, it might just be the right amount / type of vibration that could cause something to rub and make this noise.

With the 2860-5's that I'm installing, I went with the hks turbine gasket and bolt set from nengun, then just had to buy the exhaust manifold to head gaskets from nissan. It would be just as easy to get the gaskets and bits you need locally as they wouldn't amount to a huge cost. All parts are stock items, just need to oval the bolt holes on the oil drains for the slightly wider spacings.

decent tyres. replace any worn components first. 1k dosn't give you a heck of a lot especially with labour cost involved.

Almost makes me happy that I have 2 live in security guards in the rooms in the shed alongside my car.. there all day while I am at work as well. pity they are the wife's parents..

Have a look under the car, If the rear lower shock mount is a round eye, then it won't. My car had stock gtr suspension on it, but no telling wether it had been changed previously. I haven't seen a gts4 without gtr matching parts, but they are a heinz57 sort of car so anything is possible.

yet another one here with 235,45,17's on an 8" rim.