heller44

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/1-...h-t233992.html# T55 in lane 5. monga: what tyre pressure would you recommend? I had it down to 32psi all round. I think that the rear tyres needed a bit more warmth in them as well. After the last pass the rears were picking up bits of loose gravel, after the first three they weren't.

It was packed. Still got 4 runs in though which suited me as it gave me time to pause and reflect before it came around again. [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] <-- all wheels spinning off the line and screwed up the shift to second.. [email protected] <-- I attempted to do a burnout, pathetically, but nothing to lose. Didn't even bother for the previous 3 runs. Not to bad for my first ever go at the drags. I might have to replace my tyres though.. those $110 each ones on the back didn't help me at all . Real good fun.. only one problem. I might be hooked. ps best 60' of the night was 2.228 on the last run.

Simple. Don't care about modifying the previous install. Still use it to trigger the new circuit as then you will keep all the safety side of it with the ecu controlling the pump turn on and turn off. Use the lil wire that used to go to the positive on your pump to instead go to your coil on your relay. Even if you lose a volt or two in the run of cable, the relay will still switch reliably as it only needs about 4 volts minimum to pull in. Don't touch any more of your previous wiring other than taping up or otherwise removing the original pump negative wire. That one is no longer needed.

look at edited post above.. If you still can't get it.. remember that places are still open in that bricklaying course.

use the original positive feed wire to the pump as the positive trigger for the relay. a relay is composed of two parts; a coil, and a switch. so.. you use the positive wire from the original pump installation, onto one side of the coil then you earth the other side of the coil to chassis. so if the car says for the pump to go, the relay clicks and switches over. then.. you attach you new big beefy power feed to one side of the switch section. and then attach the wire from the othe side of the switch section, on a contact that is normally open circuit, to go to your pump psitive terminal. bingo pumpo working. therefore, your pic is ok, just needed to add the trigger wire (from original wiring) and work out which terminals are coil, and which ones are the open circuit switch. look here --> http://www.traxide.com.au/Relay_Info.html for relay terminal piccies and descriptions.. remember, you want to use the contacts that DON'T make a circuit until the coil is activated. hope that helps. james.

I bought your consult cable, which works a treat. Have you ever thought of doing similar to this for the wrx's? I own an my03 as well and would do dirty deeds to have the same capabilities with it..

My wife own's mine.. I have no worries.

I'm going. I'll either have fun, or have fun and need a tow home.

To give you some idea on 2860-5 response on a stock motor, no cams or cam gears. 1 bar is reached at almost spot on 4000rpm on my engine.

Now you have me thinking.. Is anyone going down there this wednesday? I might take my car for its very first pass.

I believe it it this wednesday..

Think about how a hot wire air flow meter works, it is only measuring the air going past the element itself, which is just a portion of the total airflow. This would just make it a different percentage, may not be perfectly linear response but should be able to be mapped against.

I didn't say that, did bennett or mysterykid? Mine has the right volume for the sub that I had, for the response I wanted (god knows what it is cos that was a long time ago and I don't care that much about it).. just so happened to fit nicely under the parcel shelf with a bit of jiggery-pokery.

You may have the speed sensor wires reversed on the new cluster. The newer model gtr cluster in my 89 bunky needed this (as well as all the rest moved that you already know about). The speed sensor is shown as a set of switch contacts on the wiring diagrams, but if you look on the back of the cluster on the circuit board you will see that there is a marking for a zener diode, that gives the hint, polarity conscious. Hope that helps.. I can even show you which pins you need to swap if you can't find it as I kept my notes. James.

Make one yourself. A bit of MDF, some screws and some carpet.. Not hard. I fitted a nice sized box under the parcel shelf with an angled back to use all the available volume against the back of the seat. Still gives me useable boot space. R32's don't really need a rear strut brace luckily.

Sweet, I have always wondered what that wire was on mine as well, doesn't seem to affect anything so have relegated it to the bottom of my list.

I know there is a clamp in one of those lines where it goes around the back passenger corner of the head, unsure of the other one. It looks to have a joint on a flare nut almost at the very corner of the head. The vacuum hard lines had been removed from my car before I bought it, an ebc lives under the intake filters and has short hose runs to the actuators. How you are going about it is how I removed mine, working top down mainly. All the gear on top is the easy part, then have fun getting the water and oil feed lines that run along behind the turbos unbolted so that you can get the turbos out of the way. Putting them back in, I disassembled all the piping and worked under the car bolting it back in, might be something to look at for removal but mine were so tight that it was just going to be nasty no matter what.

044 intank or surge tank setup? AFM's stock? If you haven't removed and installed turbo's on a 26 before, I sincerely wish you all the best. also interested in how the jjr coilpacks hold up after they've been used for a while..

what clutch was removed and what was installed?

That would be a good question, maybe someone who owns one can tell us.

from http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm Model Type Master Cylinder Diameter S15 Spec R BM50 25.4mm 300zx turbo BM50/57 25.4 and 26.9mm used R32 GT-T M-spec BM50 25.4mm R33 GTST BM44 23.8mm R32 GTR non Brembo BM50 25.4mm R34 GTT ? ? R32/33/34 Brembo* BM57 26.9mm * GTR N1 Skylines apparently used the BM50 MC. also this might be interesting, someone else chasing a 3-port 1" master cylinder.. http://www.sillbeer.com/2007/04/brake-mast...er-upgrade.html But looking here http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/bnr32n1bmc/bmc-46010-range.gif there is whole slew of different models used. Looking at the bmc from the drivers side the model is towards the booster right next to where it says nissan. Last digits of the part number are stamped on the very end of the unit, for example mine are 05u20, ie 1".

My mistake, looked through the manual and it seems that losing any of the abs actuators / motor relay / or circuit will just disable the abs not 4wd, as you said. I was thinking along the lines of the hicas where one thing kills the lot in that module. A question for you as well, What is the bore size of gtst and gtr master cylinders? I have 32'R brakes and I am unsure of the master cylinder matching, brakes are horrendous though..

Rattle? hmm.. put it this way, my wife reckons that my car came back broken. Bit of a zing when starting, and bit of a clunk when coming in to a stop with the clutch in like a uni-joint type of noise. Pedal effort is almost half of what the original one was, a heavy duty single I am led to believe. Gavin found out how much fun it was to try and refit the front pipe to those dump pipes as well, it took me about 3 hours to do it myself on the shed floor the first time..

I seem to have a bit of a thing for millenium jade at the moment.. classy colour with the right accents.

That is what I used, carrier part number 30501-N1604 and bearing 30502-14601, that was for a 709D in basically a 32gtr setup.