heller44

-aside from the blue dials looking like arse if you have the earlier one, some of the wiring pinouts on the back are different as well. if you plug it in and some of the gauges aren't working and the idiot lights are all out of whack you have the different one.

Simon, 12.2 @ 111MPH at the plex with just on 260rwkw in a full weight (inc stereo, full fuel and larger fellow) 32 gts4.

so.. where does the air go? I can't see any venting to allow flow through so does that mean that it will just be a dead pocket of air around the cooler or am I missing something? Other than that it looks very nice, trying to figure out where and how to mount one in my car.

copies of another brand, gmax m100's (i think)

Car was damaged prior to me purchasing it, lots of damage above and below the waterline. Chassis damage, wheel lips buckled and chaffed, wiring by monkeys with brain removed, rust, graffiti.. you name it, shouldn't have bought it.. Priced up replacements considering they are sold here in aus, not jap rims, $2400 for the set. Might look into getting them repaired.

the drifteks were all the same size? tyres were all the same brand model and size? why I ask is that I have 17x8.5's all round, with 235/45/17's all round. With different brands front compared to rear the 4wd was trying to engage just cruising, felt like a pulsing at 100kph and could see a blip each time on the gauge. swapped front to rear and it is gone. Takes bugger all to make a difference. james

what size tyres are you running currently? contact points, on inner or outer of the front and rear guards? asking 'cos of considering these as replacements for damaged rims..

When my master cyl went the clutch pedal ws occasionally getting stuck on the floor, so both ends can cause it. OP, have you tried adjusting the clutch rod? on the back of the pedal assembly there is a lock nut and the adjuster, you can try adjusting the travel yourself.. *edit, post date, would be fixed ages ago..

Those r32 ones don't have near enough the number of led elements to look good, compared to the 33 or 34 ones. There are some that I have seen on yahoo auctions that look decent, but I thought it might be easier to just make some myself.

Standard water temp guage is useless as. Even when I was hitting just on 100degC it hadn't moved from the middle. I'd recommend an oil pressure gauge, and probably an oil temp gauge. The oil pressure for being so much more reliable, and the oil temp for actually knowing when your engine is properly up to temp. I'm running aftermarket exhaust temp, oil temp, and boost gauge. All things not available in my car from factory. Oil pressure will be the next fitted.

Ducting through from the front bar to the radiator? ie rad guides. might be an option.

That is sort of right, main points are ok, but the power steering effort goes from light at just about walking pace to heavier the greater the speed in an almost linear fashion.. close enough approximation to linear to not make any difference. When it goes into what the manual calls 'fail safe' mode, it approximates the force for equivalent to 30-60kph. Figures that this is a safe enough setting that you won't lose control too easily. Feels realy wierd when this kicks in when you are halfway around a corner..

bright blue projectors look like arse as well.. i know what you meant, but taken this way I like it more. yes, non-projectors are usually h4, and projectors are h3c. usually..

^ Some r32's came with h4's as well as some with h3c's.. have to just rip it out and look. ps.. bright blue globes look like ass.

Wrong. There is a solenoid on the power steering rack that varies the bypass of hydraulic pressure so that the steering is light at carpark speeds and goes progressively firmer as speed increases. Using the r33 sender would require the use of an r33 cluster as well and I wouldn't be lining up to either do the slightly easier job of just making it fit, or the total hd.fu.k of trying to sort out all the wiring, but good luck to you if you want to try..

as in the other thread, local exhaust mob will be able to get them for you.

My local exhaust shop had them next day for me.. ring and ask someone.

^ this is right, even had them tested and confirmed as that was the problem.

Not on mine, just look around the injectors while the engine is running, was easy to see the fuel on the body, and the stench.

When I checked the denso part number on my 700cc sard's the same number corresponded to P.E. and a couple of others as well.. Looks like more putting a new box around the same product.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. For what you are running maybe a bosch 040 would be the best recommendation.. That is if you really have a problem with your pump. Have you had it on a dyno and seen what the fuel pressure sits at on load? Have you beefed up the voltage at the fuel pump (relay switched direct feed wiring)? Do the real easy things first before you swap parts out, work smart, not hard. Always start with diagnostics. I wouldn't know about any others, mine came with a gtr pump and now has a bosch 044 intank. Noisy beastie and could be too much overkill for what you need. Used a walbro in my brothers eb-xr8 that is still going well after three years but would hesitate before putting one on any car I own.

I pulled out a gtr pump from my tank and installed a bosch 044 in its place. Same holder as the gtst as I have the smaller tank not the gtr one. Gtr pump fitted in the cradle nicely.

Only other thing I might suggest if the car isn't going to be moved for quite a while is to block it up so that the tyres don't settle square.

feedback.. don't.

I use something a hell of a lot older than what you have.. blitz twin-sbc. not fancy screen, not even a digital readout, just a couple of knobs and a couple of buttons. Holds boost dead flat so who cares what it looks like, or what other fancy features it has. Hidden away in the glovebox as well, better out of sight than ripped off I reckon. Once you have it set you won't want to play with it again. Just read that manual hamish posted up and it looks dead easy.