heller44

I used a dremel with a reinforced cut off disc, bit easier to wield without damaging anything else by accident. just go through the stone guard and then you can twist it off once loose.

I don't have access to the body wiring schematics for an r33, if you do I could suggest some points to start looking.. I'm not certain how the speed signal is routed or generated in the r33. Only thing I would suggest is to start by pulling the cluster out and inspecting the connectors and harness, there, on the attachment at the sensor on the gearbox, and if it is like the r32 where there is a bunch of connectors near the engine bay fuse box as the speed signal may go in the same loom as the neutral switch and reverse switch..

There is, but there are other sensors involved as well, and other causes, might just start with the easy stuff first.. seeing as he hasn't said that he has done a diagnostic either.. Hicas unit will still be there, it modulates the steering assist solenoid, just the hicas actuator on the rear chassis has been removed.

Have you checked your power steering fluid lately?

Seriously?... Unless you are resting your left foot on the clutch pedal while you are driving, the clutch doesn't do squat. Just sits there and spins at engine revs. Gearbox oil cannot affect the operation of the clutch unless you have a large input seal leak, and if you had that since install you definitely wouldn't have a working clutch now.. Clutch is separate to gearbox, not inside it. Find a mechanic (or someone with a clue) and have a talk with them about how a clutch and how a gearbox works..

I think I paid $140 for my 044.. I have installed one of those 255lph walbro pumps, into my brothers falcon. Easy install. Personal preference I'd stay away from it, but have heard all sorts of good stories about installs into supras and whatever. 500hp isn't all that much really. I am running 350rwhp at the moment, and as 26's go mine is right down the low end of the scale. Confirmed by trap speed as well.. Just make sure you wire in a dedicated feed with relay and fuse protection, no matter which way you end up going. I'd probably do this before changing the pump, as well as throwing a new filter on there.. I did.

With the nitto or other metal type intake manifold and throttle body gasket, are you meant to use any type of gasket cement (permatex #3, etc.) when you go to reassemble the bits? Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

What pcd are you running at the moment? Evo3 gear is 4x114.3 and gtr is 5x114.3.. Evo4 onward had 5x114.3 same as skylines, but the centre hub is ~1mm larger so the skyline rim meeds to be clearanced to make it fit properly. I've been looking at evo rims as most sets to suit them fit on a gts4..

What car is it going into? Are you planning on keeping the AWD or not? Do you already own the car, the rb26 and attendant gearbox?

What filter sock and fittings in and out did you use for this install? I used a falcon filter sock with a custom bastardised inlet fitting and a wierdo outlet fitting.. Nothing off the shelf that I could find to fit.

Regular occurrance with quite a few timing lights.. just get and old lead and put it between no1 coil and plug, only way I could get a consistant reading with trying a few lights. Other people swear by using the normal loop at the back of the motor but holding the clip open..

My orc twin didn't come with anything either, though I have been informed by a few people that the os giken clutches and not the orc. I have already given all my information to gt-r32 regarding the correct parts for fitting.

Cost all of $38 for me to rebuild mine. Thats all the seals were retail. As long as the bore is ok it is fine. 1"master

Also consider what the requirements will be for the pump maybe later down the track. A walbro or bosch 040 is rated about the same as a stock gtr pump (close enough for this discussion) with a new power feed run to supply them. If you splurge on a set of turbs and injectors down the track neither will do the job with any safety margin. After faffing about getting my 044 intank set up properly, I would recommend any of the jap drop-in jobs, nismo etc.

Topfeed or sidefeed coilpacks? Some interesting whoopie weed out there today. Back on track, the coilpacks are a different design between r34-rb25neo and r32-rb20, if that is what you meant.. though I think from memory there was an r34 rb20de that was built, no idea on the coilpacks on those..

Were you measuring voltage from the positive terminal on the pump harness to chassis ground or the negative terminal of the pump harness? The voltage regulator module for the fuel pump lifts the ground to reduce the voltage seen at the pump.

709D? maybe they haven't used the correct throwout bearing and carrier.. I gave the correct ones to my mechanical workshop when they went to fit my clutch, bit of a discussion regarding wether what I had selected was right, they went for a different one.. had to go back to what I selected. Somewhere I have my copy of the orc manual with my handwritten notes on it if you want to check the part numbers. maybe not on this comp cos I'm in the boonies, but might have access to it.

Perth is a very small city.. That quote was including the labour for removal and refit of the gearbox as well as the work on the gearbox itself, if you aren't adding that into your consideration. All up I considered it a fair price.

I am now in a similar situation.. transfer case clutch packs gone. Hardly surprising considering the age, condition and usage. Mine just spins off same as a motorbike clutch slipping when it is stuffed, gauge moves but rears spin. Checked that pump works, bled system, and then dropped it in to a local specialist workshop for confirmation. I don't have a gauge assembly to test the pressure. Rebuild and labour I was quoted just on $2.5k. I have picked up a secondhand unit which I will be inspecting and probably get the same workshop to fit. Cost will be closer to 1k, if everything is good, big if though.. They picked a bad intake manifold leak as well so yet more repairs that I have to do..

torques - think of it more as just removing the distributor, same mechanical purpose.. I have an old v8 in my shed with a distributor mounted off the front of the camshaft same as a cas, not a new idea. gotrice - possibly, but then it is up to the individual how keen they are.

Just mark it to get it close to where it should be, you will have to adjust it with a timing light after you refit everything anyway, but then if you needed to be asking this you probably shouldn't be doing it either..

When I had to replace mine I had a damn good look around trying to source a reasonably priced replacements.. no go. Ended up paying about 140ish per unit.. Quite a shock considering I was used to paying for bits for the old ute previously.. definately didn't want to go rose joint as mine is only a road car.

Just remember to not ride the friction point.. not a lot of meat on those plates to wear out.

Dredging for info again.. Almost the same question but other way around.. Can you use an r33 transfer case on an r32 or do you have the inherent preload problem?

There is that "samurai sword clashing" noise at the start.. very noticeable, I thought when I push my pedal in it makes a little bit more noise than that, but might just be my ears..