heller44

Remove the master cylinder, pull it apart, follow the workshop manual, easy as.. make sure everything is sparkling clean, you don't want any little bit of dirt getting in there. after you remove the piston assembly you can shine a torch in there and you will be able to see if there has been any corrosion, contamination, scoring, etc. In my case it was just old seals that lost tension. Brakes are better than they have ever been. Transfer case clutchpack decided to die shortly after as well, never ends.

http://www.autobrakeservice.com.au/index.php Still have the baggie, it was sitting in my rubbish for when I clear away that area.. protex 210J0159 is what is on the label.. Make sure it is the 1" master, and I can't remember if it was the nabuko or tokiko, think it was nabuko..

Before any more complicated answers, one question.. Have you performed a hicas diagnostic on your car? A) Yes, and let us know the results.. B) No, go and do one, will find the how to in diy and tute section. Thank you for your time.

I am running 4.375:1 's behind a 26, mainly street driving and have never had an issue with it. maybe if you were running something like a 5krpm limit you might have issues, though I normally am changing before 4k anyway.

Thanks for throwing those pics up. Looking at the shape it fits quite well around the transfer case hump. Would be interesting to see how they fit in a gt-t, and how the '32 mats fit in comparison. It almost looks like the pattern you have there is originally from a gtr it is that nice..

I own an my03 wrx as well as my bunky.. Comparing it against a 33 gtr v-spec I know which one I would have for being able to park it in a carpark, or fit shit in the boot, or carry 4 people with ease ( some people I know don't exactly like hopping over the front seats to get in a car ). For sheer driving pleasure the gtr hands down, but I would be petrified leaving it anywhere that I couldn't see it.

Seen this beast in the flesh, both before and after the transformation.. all my boot trim came from it. (and spare tyre ) Stop teasing already and let me know when it is going for its first run, I bloody hope I am in perth to go and see it.

Seal comes bonded to window glass as you have found out. But think of it this way, you buy a seal and it comes with a brand new window! Bargain!

Recheck your connections near the fuel pump. Sounds like it isn't making a good contact on the wire that goes to the low level sensor.

There are optioned gts4's out there as well I guess.. Punched my vin into fast, auto, turbo, pearl black, and 4.375:1 finals.. (from memory, it was quite a while ago but diff ratio is definitely correct still.)

So, you don't care about rotating the tyres as they wear? Just going for 'the look'?

Unfortunately I can't find the paperwork for it. I remember asking for the seal kit for a 1" - BM50, they only had one kit listed. I couldn't remember wether I had a tokiko or nabuko branded cylinder, they only had one type, luckily it was the same as mine. Nabuko from memory..

Nice writeup. Suggestion, Nitto metal gasket set as an option replacing the tomei or hks, a reasonable amount cheaper. Not sure wether I was meant to but I used hylomar spray on the gaskets before fitting. Just finished replacing my intake manifold and throttle body gaskets due to paper ones being blown out, good luck with getting everything off and then back together without a lot of swearing.

Not that long ago there was someone on here that rebuilt their abs unit with all new orings.. might be worth having a look around, as an option.

Transfer case u/s...

The one in the cat (oem) is just an overtemp indicator. Doesn't do anything other than bring on an idiot light. Not a sensor just a switch. .. My egt sensor is fitted in the junction of the rear three cylinders on the exhaust manifold, before the turbo. Drill and tap.

Oil problems? My motor is approximately 20yrs old this year, no oil mods to be found and still with the narrow crank drive. Maybe if you are bashing the thing or racing it may be an issue, but the '26 isn't as fragile as it is made out to be.

Should find it easy having lost that much fluid. Just so I don't forget, cos I will, If you need a seal rebuild kit for the 1" master cylinder, give ABS a ring, less than $40 delivered.

to add a note, there are two fuses that will disable the 4wd. One in the engine bay that kills the power to the hydraulic motor itself, and one in the interior that pulls power from the control module (but this also disables abs). I put a toggle switch on the motor feed, and a momentary on the module feed. Switch, burn, switch and push button and good to go. Don't really like the idea of turning off the ignition when you are meant to be staging. Toggle is good for when I want to play but still have abs.

Pity he has a 33 gtst then, eh? No gtr injectors for him. Top feed ≠ side feed.

What does the fault diagnostic led on the attessa module in the boot show? May be something simple like an abs sensor cable being interfered with when turning the wheel.

Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal?

ok I'll bite.. how did you fit a sock onto the 040?

044's can run in tank or out.. personally I'm with the paintballman, better an 044 with a proper sock and fuelling capacity than either a walbro, or an 040 with sfa filtering. Or if you have too much money or no mechanical aptitude any of the jap drop-ins. As you could tell 044 intank here as well. Paragon, your setup is massive overkill for the vast majority here but is quite nice.

Stock gtr actuator is ~6psi.. aftermarket ones come as ~14psi. Ran mine on actuator for about 6 months, direct feed, felt like an excel.