heller44

No. They only have one, in the dump pipe itself. The other sensor in the cat is just an overtemp switch, cat gets too hot it turns the idiot light on. Only the '26 has two.

found the info I was looking for.. in this thread.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...amp;hl=steering look for the waveforms on post #29.. I haven't gotten any further into replacing the hicas module as mine is working.. after I fixed everything else.

.. Mine works.. on an ORC twin and feels good. Just adjust it for the right pickup point. Massively light compared to the original single plate that was in there, ex wouldn't drive it cos took too much force to hold the clutch pedal in.

try TMA, total motorcycle accessories, opposite macca's vic park. I use my dirt bike helmet.

That is where my solenoid feed is connected, a small barb threaded into the 'twin turbo' pipe just before the large hose going to the intercooler.. Signal is coming from the same point as the map sensor.

What are you using to measure the boost pressure? Just wondering if it is a gauge issue as I have had one do the same.

Possibly be better if, say, comparing quite a few vehicles on one day.. Lots of different final drive ratios, if you kept the charts all referenced to rpm it would be easier to make a comparison? btw, thats a question not a statement..

Get under the car and look. In the package there is a pic of the gtst one, looks like one mounting hole each side of the body. On the gtr / gts4 one there are two holes on one side. If your car is push, it will have the clutch arm to the rear of the slave cylinder, pull other way around towards the front. If things are still not clear, get a picture of each and throw it up here.

Hicas module controls the power steering solenoid..

.. I am just wondering... maybe I am missing something... why would you want to keep it stock? Compared to a very gently modified version a stocker feels oh so very lethargic.. If it is for an investment, then put it on stands in the shed, but then I believe cars are to be used.. Your choice, your opinion, but don't go all freaky when others don't agree, especially as this forum is based upon modifying these cars. 63000k's.. not much use putting that one in the shed either..

Varying duty cycle, ~square wave input, if it is the same as the '32.. I did have a couple of pictures from a scope capture when I was chasing problems, but they seem to be misplaced.

Being able to only select a couple at a time it would be good.

ahha.. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...-type-p-18.html so there is a difference between slaves.. here is the gtr one. same price as the gtst one.

GTs4 here, GTsT master cylinder.. piece of piss to change. Bought mine from kudos as well. master --> http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...33r32-p-60.html master and slave package --> http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...-gtst-p-61.html pic there is the same as what I have bolted on my car, after I had gotten a few frights with the clutch pedal sitting on the floor.

I'm not sure if the '20 and '26 ignitors are interchangeable.. if they are, I was looking at using a z32 ignitor with the harness pinouts sightly rejigged to suit the '26, even better as they have an updated design internally to overcome some of the reliability issues. I'll see if I can find the links I saved. ahha.. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/102479-ignition...-innards-2.html start from about post 16.

'all the other gauges run off electric signal and speedo is off cable' yep. My cable snapped where the square drive on the end of the cable, behind the cluster, mates onto the cable itself.. bit of devcon and it has been going fine for about 2 years now.. dodgy but works. tacho is from the ecu. Check on the back of the nismo one where the contacts are for the tacho, there are little labels that are sort of sensible that will help you.. make sure they are clean and making a good contact.. otherwise I would have to assume the tacho is faulty, try in another car though if possible. If it was a series issue you would have other issues.

Easiest way, remove cluster, you will see the end of the cable.. start the car and drive it back and then forward, you should see the end of the cable turn if it is still intact. mad082 : as battery has pointed out, r32 cable drive.. in the back of the cluster is where the speed signal is generated for the ecu and other stuff, so no mechanical drive means everything doesn't work. levizzle : do you have any other weird stuff working or not working on the other dash when you plug it in? you might have a different series cluster, some of the pinouts on the connectors were changed.

guess not, but if you find the correct procedure for spraying this stuff let a few of us know, interested. I am about to try my hand at a bike with a pearl coat, only ever sprayed 2k marine work, nothing fancy like this..

paid from wankbest.

don't they pay o/t??

i,ll turn up as well. won,t be able to win anything but is a good comparison.. bunky special.

Not going to get an answer? Oh well, might as well do what everyone else seems to want to do, replace every part of the car in the hope that you will magically replace the one bit that is giving you issues.. fkit, why not the sunvisors as well.. Diagnostics are there to be used. Some days I just want toast.

Same, smells nice too.. Had a workshop replace the transfer case for me, they put in decent gearbox oil but it doesn't like it, 4th and 5th synchros are a bitch. Going to dump it and go back to the vmx80 that I was running before without an issue.

Have a look at farnell inone, or rs components.. Both suppliers have a comprehensive online catalogue. From memory it wasn't that rare a connector, I had one before I realised it was out by about 5psi and filed it.

Check your wiring again. If you still can't get it, I live just around the corner.