heller44

Pretty much bang on what it should be then. I made 298rwhp with ~11psi on a very lean run with about the same mods.

I might come along and say hello. Never been on an organised cruise before.

I must admit, that is a nice write up. Thanks for going to the effort. With mine it stays hot until I reach under and help the motor start moving.. Should get around to fixing it before summer.

With the one in that adapter link, you will need to work out what the signal translation is inside the pic chip. Otherwise it is a brick.

Been around the forums for a long time, but never bothered to join up. Name: James Aged since: 1975 I drive a: silver bunky 32 gts4 Work: Electronics tech / Drives tech / industrial sparky. Cruise/event attendance rate: Nil Music taste: Probably older stuff than most here listen to. Hobbies: Cars, bikes, anything that goes whir bang Looking to come out on sunday, maybe. Drags monday night, definately.

what boost were you runnning to make that?

If this helps.. With stuffed gtr shocks and kings lows it was bouncy as all get out, to the extent that my wife wouldn't ride in the car. With the original gtr springs it was soft-er but didn't handle nice at all. Since replaced shocks with koni adjustables, can't get it be real civilised but handles like a go-kart. Possibly look into the bilstein suspension kit in the group buy section if you want lowered and fuctional.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...al-t233476.html a heap of information on stock nissan brake master cylinders in this thread.

be careful with a compressor hose ont actuator as you can damage the diaphram with the unregulated supply. use a regulator to cap it at 20psi or so.

harder = faster. before that it is soft'n'easy. Salacious.

3 that i know of.. jjr. superspark. fet. plus i have heard of different brands as well other than oem or splitfire so there is a wide selection to choose from, could be any if they haven't stated.

On mine the diameter was embossed on the passenger side of the master cylinder housing, just a little bit in front of the booster, if you are taking about brake master cyls.

Would you mind finding out the magazine and issue in which you read that?

yes. It will be light for a little bit, like it is at standstill, then it will go harder and stay that way until you reset the electrics.

That would be great, the only pic I had from that night was the one at the line. mail is: jamesbutcher at westnet.com.au

22nd I'll be there, even if everyone else pulls out.. Looks like my wife might bring her car down and a mate with an ma61 as well, with a bit of convincing. Dingus, have you seen the pics of your car up on hioctane?

Yet another car here with the boot/gasket around the gearstick being the cause of a leak.

The speed sensor in the back of the cluster is a pulsed output, varying in frequency with road speed. The hicas / power steering module converts this input, and uses a few others, to output a fixed frequency but pulse width modulated signal to the solenoid on the power steering rack. If you don't have this speed input the module defaults after a few minutes to an output that approximates what it would be doing at 70km/hr. Theoretically a safe amount for low and high speed driving. It is not doing any harm to the pump or hydraulics. I didn't have this input for about the first 18 months of owning my car, I really do like it now that I have it all working though.. Live with it, or just go and buy a new cable. It isn't expensive and if the old one has lasted for 15-18 years it is safe bet that the new one will too. I hope this helps you.

I really would suggest that you have a look in the forced induction section for how to go about the 30 conversion, Just mix the gtr bottom mods with the gtst top parts. Personally when I look at my car, and the amount that has been done to it, and how much is left to be done I don't think that either is a sensible option. Sell and buy a gtr.. seriously. It is a much better base to start from.

cheaper, easier, less blood,.. sell the 4 and buy the r. Only thing I would consider if I had the rb20 originally would maybe a rb30 conversion with an rb25de head.

definately put up pics.

Use the 80mm vg30 setting, last on the list. Response curve will need to be tweaked a little bit as they aren't exactly the same.

I am meant to be on call that night, but since I fielded the other tech's problems at 3am and 5 am saturday I think he will agree to cover for me.. Should be able to be there as well.

If there is tension on the actuators holding them closed, then it looks very much like turbos are coming off.

Even worse.. both my brand new ones have this as well.. It will be where they've joined the filter section. Would be made in a rectangular shape and then rolled up and clamped like that then the ends formed on.