heller44

Personally I wouldn't be putting on old gtr turbos.. not with the price of new.

As long as it does it's job, ie. regulates the fuel pressure correctly, it won't make an ounce of difference. Check your fuel pressure with a decent gauge and make sure that it is all good.

Freak = a very pronounced surgeing, both on the gauge, and through the backside. I can't imagine it being that much fun for the transfer case either. I thought it might have been a fuel prob, but pulled the 4wd fuse and it went away. Swapped rims front to back and put fuse back in and it was all good.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...on-t212469.html kind of unbalanced, unless you like the hammerhead look.

Believe this as well. I had 235/45/17's all round on the same size rims, fronts were new, backs were old, different brands. Still made the 4wd freak.

Confirmed here and all the gts4 owners I have talked to, Fork fitting on rear shock lower mount. Unsure of alu or steel hub as never needed to know.

R32 seats are a might small and uncomfortable, at least compared to the r33 seats that I replaced them with. I'm not huge either, just average size.

Petrol is considered non-conductive, so isolation by distance from an earthing point should be all you need, as long as the terminations are secure and reliable.

I cannot see how snipping a wire will get rid of the 'stiff' steering as it is the hicas module that provides the pwm signal to the power steering modulation solenoid?

.ease up a bit. At least he is trying to do it himself and learn along the way. It would be different if it was someone elses gear, but its not.

When you get up in the morning, do you see your mechanic in the mirror?

Isn't the second line on the r32 pump for hicas?

pfc = pump at full speed.

How you have it in the pic, is how mine is. Looks correct to me.

how? by following the instructions here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HI...icas+diagnostic Post #7 is the one i used. you might have to try it a couple of times as it was a prick to get it for me. When you feel the arse end doing a little shimmy each way then you have it, just count off the flashes and then chase it from there.

Do you have any before shots showing the front wheel spacings to the guards?

Sort out the problem, don't just start ripping stuff out. Hicas diagnostic, see what it comes up with..

drain old oil. new filter and good synthetic oil. drive.

Most people would care about making their car better for them to drive, by perfoming a mod, rather than making it worse to drive and better to look at.. but each to their own.

Going on with the apexi front that came with them. Almost the same size as the hks drager catback that came wi th the car..

I have these dump pipes bought second hand, good condition. Currently in the process of fitting them behind a pair of 2860-5's. Diameter of the pipe on stock dumps is approximately 51mm whereas these are approximately 66mm. What I would like to know is, has anyone else seen these before? All the pictures of mines dumps that I could find had similar designs to the tomei dumps. Does anyone think that they would be a 'very' bad choice? thanks.

Not exactly the same box.

Mine stock and aftermarket were 5 studs, no bolts.

The ones I had trouble with are the manifold nuts directly behind the turbos under the manifold. Also ratchet ring spanners seem like a good idea in theory, but most times the head is too large to fit where it needs to be.. much like my hands.

swap bits betwwen cylinders, see if the fault moves.