heller44

Adam, can you elaborate, ie what kit, results from it compared to the stockers.. thanks. james.

Quite often guages have a signal out for warning, going to a big bugger light shining in your face saying that something is about to die, or to an indicator bank or similar.

There's been lots of discussion on split dumps vs widemouth dumps, and lenght of split on here. Results that have been posted and technical discussion lend favour to longer lenght of split before rejoin for better results. That's with gtst and gtt dumps, but theory should hold true for gtr's as well. james. those trust gtr dumps are sexy as though...

here. r32gtr_eccs_pinouts.pdf

I have a pair of genuines here, paid about 105 each from memory. tie rod ends I am hoping to get a pedders aftermarket replacement, cos ~160 ea for ends is highway robbery..

The quarter glass and seal is one piece, but between the glass and the metal of the car body is a sikaflex bead seal. Panelbeater broke my right side qtr as well, it had to come out to get at the cancer. The replacement looks good, whilst the original on the left has a banged up outer seal.

N I B. quick question. Most times it seems that the switch is connected to the fuse inside the cab near the drivers knee. When I chased mine down, I wired into the fuse in the engine bay box. This, according to the schematics I have, just removes power to the ETS motor, not the ABS motor as well. Is there a bad point to doing it this way, or is it just easier in cab? (other than the link being higher current run)

try kings springs http://www.kingsprings.com/king_springs_distribution.htm

My apologies. Deren's right there, just checked the service manual and it says to remove the exhaust manifolds when swapping turbos. Happily haven't had to do that yet. Still, thats 2 out of the whole set. It would be better to only get what you need. James

Those gaskets you pictured do: a) plenum to throttle bodies. b) throttle bodies to head. c) head to exhaust manifolds. None or which should need to be changed for replacing the turbos.

Bought an Autogauge branded 30psi unit. sat about -5psi with engine off. On boost was showing ~4psi when a correct gauge was showing ~9. Using an Apexi mechanical El unit now. Once you get your head around the conversion it is second nature, even though I still think in pounds.. Nengun for me. As MearCat says, It is a critical gauge.

wider tyre on the front makes the steering heavier.

What were the plugs gapped to?

I recognised the background a long time before I recognised the car. very different.

to the right of the ashtray. a couple of little vent holes on the front of the panel and the sensor is mounted in behind.

Same in W.A. Shunter cops the lot.

Rear quarter window outer is bonded to the glass, buy new seal - comes with free glass attached. Can't help with front or rear though.

Reading it with a decent dmm I get 1.6Ω or 2.7Ω depending on polarity @ ~35°c. weird.

BHDave, It sounds like it is the same as the greddy egt and oil temp gauges that I have. Pressing the button on the brain unit puts it into a set mode for setting the peak limit before warning light is activated. When in peak set mode, there should be a red light on (I think). Make sure you are out of set mode and it should all be good, red light off and button out. I thought that both my gauges were borked when I bought the car. Both were left in set mode and hidden in the dash. Instruction on the greddy site are for the later version. I don't have a pic of the control unit and button, but here is a pic of the gauge for comparison. If you need wiring pinouts, It'll have to wait till the weekend, It is all buried inside my dash and will take a while to uncover.

Here is mine. First three pics are the before shots... Looking for more info on this car if anyone has any history, bought it from someone else who bought it repo'd. Big project, as the repairs went on, more and more things were found. In hindsight I shouldn't have bought it.. oh well. Built not bought as they say. Don't like the front bar quality, will go for an east bear or proper gtr bar later maybe.

then buy an east bear one.

I'd use a different quote.. "you get what you pay for." Like a few people in this thread, I bought a black face autogauge meter from the same place. Prompt delivery and the product looked alright. Hard to see the needle in daylight though. After a couple of weeks I was bothered by the rest position of the gauge ( reading when engine was off ) plus it was reading about 4 psi on stock gtr actuators. Scavenged a mechanical test gauge from work and used it as a reference.. was sitting on about 9psi. Meter was filed in the round filing cabinet.. Ordered an a'pexi mechanical el meter to replace it and am much more confidant of a correct reading. I wouldn't consider a correct reading gauge a luxury. James.

Boot garnish? Not sure what you mean by that, but what I'm looking for is pretty much everything in the boot, carpet, side bits, and whatever is in the front part. Only have the rear bits that cover the tail light section. Everthing else is bare. $100?

Sad pics on 101 champ. Pity, it looked nice beforehand. If you are down to the stage of parting it out, I know you were looking to sell the whole thing, but if you are, I'm looking at getting the entire boot interior sometime. Let me know if you want to, and what you think is reasonable. Cheers. James.

Same gauge here.. Compared against a mechanical gauge it was over 5 psi out (low). Currently resides in the round filing cabinet. Looking for a decent replacement.. Probably get a greddy mechanical as it will go with my exh temp and oil temp electrical gauges, unless anyone can suggest better / cheaper (not exclusive).