Kwyjibo

Hi SydneyKid, Sorry this is offtopic but could you please have a look at the r32 gtst suspension group buy thread. I really need an answer or at least an estimate on when my stuff will arrive and your PM's are full and have been for awhile. Its been well over 10 days now and I haven't even received a consignment number.

Hey SK I've sent a couple of PM's but haven't got a reply. You sent a PM just saying 'Ordered' on Monday 26th. Just wondering when you expect these to be delivered as I have to make sure someone is home. It also says in the first page that a consignment number will be provided. Could I please grab this? Cheers, Adrian

Yeh I'm pretty sceptical about it but the 'spray' wore off the rotors very quickly and just left a few lines where I guess there were imperfections. If these wear at the same rate as the rotor I can't see it being too bad.

PM sent about struts.

I didn't install them because I didn't have time but I think that was the problem. After playing with the pads to try and stop them squealing with no avail I bought some stuff from CRC that you spray on the discs themselves to actually stop squeal. That worked so I guess the shop didn't machine them, next time I'm just gonna wait till I have time and do it myself.

Hi, Just put EBC Greenstuffs and some new rotors and I am getting a massive squeal(loudest I've heard brakes squeal on a car) if I brake below about 15 km/h. This doesn't happen for a bit after braking from speed, or the first stop or two. It also didn't start happening till about 80km after I put the brakes in. Should this be happening while the brakes bed in? In the instructions for the pads it indicates there may be a bit of noise for the first 500km but it should die down over this time. It has been doing this for 300km now and if anything today it was worse. I have taken the car out and done the few stops that I usually do to bed in. I know the steps to take to get rid of the squeal but I'm just wondering if there is any point until I'm past the 500km mark.

I've noticed there is a Maroon R33 two houses down from my house(Northside). Today I noticed that there were two maroon R33's and a black GT-R there. T

Received notice that courier arrived when I wasn't home today, will be redelivered on Monday. Thanks for the quick replies and service rs73.

That was me but unfortunately its only a gts-t . Didn't see your mate in the BMW, I was in a rush to the servo because I had just found a screw in my tyre, and needed to check if it was losing pressure.

Waved and got a wave from a silver R32 along College St near CISAC earlier today, was that you ZCR?

Its a manual.

Hi, I've had the R32 for awhile now but have never bothered asking this question. It idles very strangely, once it is warm it settles to 700 rpm neutral. If I drive it cold and then change it to neutral just as I come to a stop it revs quickly to 1200rpm then drops straight back to 700rpm, however once it drops to 700rpm in neutral once it is perfect from then on whenever I change to neutral. I understand it is normal to rev higher when cold but it revs very high for only a split second then drops to normal. The strangest thing I've noticed is that the car idles higher if in gear or while moving. When coming to a stop I can have the clutch in and it will idle at 1100 RPM, once I've stopped it might drop to 900 RPM, then when I change to neutral it will go back to 700 RPM. As soon as I put it into 1st it will rise to about 900 RPM again, the only way it drops to 700 is when I'm in neutral. Does this happen to anyone else? Anyone know why this might be happened. I've cleaned AAC, IAC, AFM, I've adjusted TPS and CAS using a laptop connected to ECU so I have know idea why it does this. Thanks for the help. Adrian

I was pretty annoyed when I found out what happened to mine. Luckily most of its parts are still within the club. Glad to hear you got the car back. Its so slack when people burn cars since most of them aren't worth having insurance on so you lose a whole heap of money.

Been struggling to get 98 octane at a reasonable price Northside for a few weeks now. Shell ran out so the BP in Jamison hiked up their prices(at one point I payed $1.65/l when there normal unleaded was $1.38) which I was pretty angry about. Now BP is out, just found out last night that Kippax Mobil still has Synergy 8000 and at a good price, only 11c more than regular.

I just realised the previous user has put in T-piece that runs to the standard guage and then also runs through to the dash(probably to the other guage). None of these connections are have fastners on them so I might buy some and see if that helps. It seems a very slight is coming from where it connects to the plenum.

Ok it seemed like the variance was a bit high, I did a search and whenever other peoples standard guage was sitting above -7 like mine people said there was a vacuum leak.

I noticed in another topic someone was saying their vacuum is dropping to -60mmhg on idle. According to my boost guage mine is sitting at -40Cm/hg(-4.5 to -5.5 on standard guage) or around abouts and just wondering if I might have a leak somewhere? Engine runs fine and boosts ok. Does anyone know what it should be sitting at with no accelerator input? Any easy ways of finding vacuum leaks? Cheers, Adrian

Spotted a Red 32 right near the pedestrian crossing outside Subway on Emu Bank Road, got a wave and gave one back. I'm pretty sure the guy works at a place in Belco and has helped me purchasing the right products a couple of times(Don't wanna give away too much of where he works).

Thanks guys, Yeh the speed sensor works fine on my laptop even after the HICAS light comes on. I can only glimpse at it once in awhile though so I don't know if it drops the signal for a split second and then HICAS decides to stop it working for good. Battery and alternator are fine, only thing I can think of is occasionally the car drops revs going up to lights. The steering always seems to go heavy when driving along though. Good to hear about the wires because I don't know which way they are meant to be wired since they are all black.

I bought my r32 about 3 months ago and ever since I have bought it I lose power steering and the HICAS light comes on. It is very random when it comes on, sometimes straight away, sometimes I've driven over an hour and its been fine. I've got a consult cable and even when the light comes on I can still read my speed off my lap top. The strange thing is I have tried to do a HICAS diagnostic and warning 5 came up(speed sensor), I'm not sure if I drove far enough forward though. Does anyone know how the wiring works, I always thought it went gauges->HICAS->ECU but if it goes from ECU to HICAS could it be a wiring problem? I would be almost certain that it is not receiving a speed signal but there are times where it works for ages. I even bought another HICAS ECU off someone, although I am almost positive it was faulty as the steering became much heavier and it always happened very quickly with that one. Would different problems cause different variances in how stiff the steering goes? Now all of a sudden my speedo is going bouncy below 45km/h, however the guage itself has never stopped working. Could this have been an underlying problem? Can you still lose power steering because of this even though it never showed up on the guage? As soon as I bought the car I noticed the 2 wires coming from the power steering canister had been cut, does anyone know which way these were supposed to go. I did connect them up but I'm not sure if its the right way around, they are both black and even when swapped around I still get the HICAS light on sometimes. The fluid is always topped up but there is a slight leak from one of the hoses. Could there be anything else causing these problems? Cheers

Hey, Just wondering what colour the rear bar is? Cheers, Adrian

Could this maybe explain my problem as well then. I get a bit of a whistling sound that seems to dissapear at high boost(I just figured other noises overpowered it). I also get black stuff over the back of my car(not losing any oil, runs rich due to blocked off BOV). Could it be my cat? I always figured it was a small boost leak somewhere.

Hey Dan, It's Adrian, we can swap cars for awhile if you like, mine is probably a bit cheaper to run . Even so I'm only managing to get 450kms(doesn't vary much driving hard or slow). Managed to get 600km up to Sydney and back.

Seems pretty simple to me(hopefully I'm right), its just like a normal tune at a higher boost pressure. All thats changing is the AFM signal to make things leaner. Nothing in your car compensates for the lower boost pressure(AFM voltage will be the same as this is before the turbo) so the car will run richer after it hits peak boost. Like has been said the SAFC II lets you have two maps, so this could be the answer for you, have one set for say 15psi and one for 10psi so it doesn't run rich at lower boost.

Make sure you have something magnetic in case you lose anything in the engine bay. As was said don't screw up the gasket, also make sure you are very careful when opening it because the pin holding in the plate can pop out very easily.