zebra

That block mustve been very bad for it to do that...oh btw did the microtech turn up?

The problem going with 88mm slugs is the bore degradation after nearly 20 years of use, if you pop the welch plugs out you will see how badly the outside of he bores are rusted. So If I were to go 80thou over (88mm) I would x-ray the shit outta the block so see how much meat there is, some blocks wont even take 60thou due to core shift when being cast, Or I would sleeve the block. E.g 10-15 years ago you could take a small block ford (windsor or cleveland) out 60thou, these days no-one goes past 40 because a fair bit of the bores have rusted away and you will more than likely hole the bores, generally towards the bottom of the liner as they are thinner than up the top.

80thou over will put you in the water jacket...would redefine "floating" wrist pins lol. A simple overbore wont net you anymore than a couple of horsepower, so unless you did a heap of headwork/cams/ecu/compression etc. So my guess is the motor was Fubar so it felt quicker when it was running properly. As for the supra brakes, only the 1996-> got the big 4 pots, the early ones has the same brakes as my soarer/non-turbo supras.

I think more head work would help, no doubt with the extra 400cc the ports will need to be bigger. I doubt sticking a 3.4L bottom end in a car with stock cams and ports will net good results, Would make a good low rpm streeter, but to get the most out of it will require a heavily ported head with very large cams. I still want to know the rod length and pin height, My guess is the rods are around the 5.8-5.9" mark (maybe standard 25/26 length?), I dont think there is room to raise the pin heights for standard 6" rods and a 9mm stroke increase

Cambeltown in sydeeerrrnay

I think he thinks injecton works the same as a carburettor lol, where the fuel delivery is based off airflow (with out getting technical)

Ahk cool, that clears it up ( the soarer turbos run parrallel btw) Sounds a bit like a supercharger then....A plumbed back by-pass valve would work pretty well, but most of those are big and bulky.

Stock bottom end it fine, just needs big injectors, an intercooler...supporting mods etc

Shouldve just bought new -9's like a heap of us told you too But yeah, get someone who knows what they are doing with Garrett/HKS turbos

Pick the cr you like the best...not like you drive it everywhere at WOT and 7k rpm.....for street duties the Supra gets my vote simple because of the bigger motor, same brakes as the turbo model etc...so later, just throw a GT42 at it and run 9's

You guys know that School has finished for the year in some places....youze been trolled cuzzzzyy brah eashays

All boost controllers, whether manual or Electronic control gate pressure, by bleeding off pressure before it gets to the gate actuator, E-boost is no different.

I can build it...no warranty though...

Yeah the way Polyphony made it out, was that it was a brand new game, just with an existing name...Its now obvious that this isnt the case. so kinda dissapointed, but I hate X-boxes so def not getting forza and if I want awesome physics and racing I'll play LFS

Buy me a set for my soarer too while you are at it, 18x9.5+25

Thats a better review than a couple of other I have seen, tbh I dont care about menu screens. I just hope some of you guys are right about more premium cars being released, kinda makes sense to me...as it was no doubt rushed into production after the backlash of many delays.

DO IT!@

If you are handy with some tools, you could drill and tap a 1/4 bsp fitting anwhere in the block, head whereever, as long as you know where the water galleries are.

OMGWTF! 800 cars dont have interiors!!@!@! Not sure I want the game now to be honest, because looking at the cars list nearly all of the cars I want wont have interiors!

Dan, not sure if you know, but is there any difference in flow between a 25 head and a 26 head? I guess the larger 26 valves will help flow a little

Cool Heavily ported 2v cleveland heads will flow about 260-270cfm, Interesting when you consider the RB head has 4 valves per cylinder and is 30 years newer than the Cleveland. They were designed for a 5.8L v8 though compared to a 2.5L turbo six

^^ The 25 heads flow more than I thought!!!

Its the Thermostat housing

Head Type: Cast Iron Ford Cleveland 2V (small port) Porting Type: Cleaned up/Port matched by me Valve size: Standard 2.04" Intake 1.56" Exhaust Flow at x lift:Intake 197cfm at .450", 203cfm at .550" (tells me there is no point going any larger than 500thou lift) 175cfm Exhaust at .500" (flows a little more at .550 but like the intake its not worth going that big) Manifolds fitted: None Power/turbo/boost: Will flow just under 400hp at the crank Comments: Pretty good for near standard heads with un-touched chambers, Has cemented my decicion to run it at 309 cubic inches instead of 351 or 383, due to the fact that the bigger capacity will cause I big drop off in power in the top end, as well as limiting revs. Port Photos: To come

A thread for those with Ported heads. I am keen to know what figures in CFM you are getting from both intake and exhaust ports. Hopefully there are enough people on here with ported heads to keep this going. So follow this proformer thingo Head Type: (eg RB20DET, RB26DETT etc) Porting Type: (eg CNC, backyeard job, Pro head guy etc) Valve size: (eg standard, 1mm over size etc) Flow at x lift: (eg 200cfm at .450thou or 130cfm at 8mm etc) Manifolds fitted: (eg none, stock exhaust manifold etc) Power/turbo/boost: (eg 300rwks, GT3076, 18psi etc) Comments: Port Photos: (Not asking to give away any secrets or anything like that) Cheers Andrew